Another person with ball joint issues and strut question

[bahlorm]

Alright I have done some research with the search bar before everyone goes all crazy and tells me to search about this. I have saw that many people have had issues with getting ball joints that were too small, which I think I have the same issue. So I understand I will probably now have to take this ball joint back and find 1 that fits whenever I can with my car all disassembled and all. I have also run into an issue where it seems that the new ball joint and the old one has about the same resistance and play in it so I am not sure if the old one is even bad. I took the car to Sears and they told me it was bad and I had a little play while moving the wheel at 12 and 6 o clock but the old ball joint is still fairly stiff and the boot was never broken and still lubricated so I am not sure if I needed to go through with all this to begin with. Should I still replace it or just put the old one back on?

Also while trying to remove the old one, instead of being smart and removing the lower control arm like I should have. I got to the nut for the ball joint by removing my strut. Now I am having a hell of a time trying to get this thing in by myself. Does anyone have any tips on getting this thing back on any easier by yourself or is it just a pain in the ass no matter what?

[discoelk]

I used Moog K9085 with success on both my cars. However, the joint fit a little loose on one side of the 85 so I tack welded it in a couple spots.

Not sure what you're asking with most of your post, but i was able to press the joints in and out with a medium duty bench vice.

There are tons of threads on this subject, however this one is the most helpful IMO.

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...nt-Replacement

[bahlorm]

My main question is do I even have to replace my old ball joints if it's just as stiff as the new one. It was still lubricated and boot wasn't broken but still had up and down play in the tire. Also advice to get my strut back in.

[SupraFiend]

Its pretty rare that people wear out ball joints to the point that they have significant play, tie rod ends are another matter (which may be your actual problem). The stiffness is only part of it, a worn ball joint will feel notchy as you rotate it throughout its extents. Rotate it around in circles, from side to side etc and see how it feels compared to the new one. If its smooth and has no play, just throw it back in. The tie rods, both inner and outer, generally wear out quite awhile before balljoints do on these cars.

I assume you're have trouble getting the strut to pop back onto the steering arm? I have a flat bar nail puller, basically a big pry bar, but its made from flat stock so it works a little better. I hook the end with the 90deg bend under the LCA near the inner bolt hole, then run the other end over the strut rod and then get somebody to stand on it to lower the LCA so I can slide the strut over it. It can be done solo too, but its alot easier with a 2nd person standing on it.

[bahlorm]

That is what I needed to know thanks. I will inspect the ball joint again by what you told me to see if there is a different. My inner tie Rod is bad also that was going to be the next fix lol

[Road Ripper]

If you disconnect the anti-sway bar from the lower control arm, it will allow the LCA to drop much easier, and be easier to line up/reconnect the strut to the steering arm.

[bahlorm]

Awesome thanks road ripper. I guess my ball joint was in good shape to begin with. With the test above both felt identical just wonder why I had a little play in the tire with my hands at 12 and 6. Thought bad tie Rod only has play at the 3 and 9 position. Which I do have a bad inner tie Rod for sure.

[bahlorm]

Now I can't get the damn castle nut back on all the way lol. The damn ball joint just keeps spinning on me. I tried an impact gun and putting a c clamp on the ball joint to try and press it down with no luck. I wiped off the threads on the nut and the ball joint and sprayed it with some wd 40 and got all the gunk and dirt off of it with still no luck. It isn't even going down far enough to get the cotter pin in place.

[Road Ripper]

Loose wheel bearings or loose/broken upper strut mount, possible loose gland nut for the strut cartridge insert.

[bahlorm]

Not getting the humming noise of a bad wheel bearing not sure of any other symptoms. Also not sure the signs of the struts. I have it disconnected now if there is anything I should check then now would be the time. Sears also mentioned that my shocks and struts are bad lol.