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[OPEN] Solid Mount Strut Bars Thread

32K views 98 replies 35 participants last post by  tstefan 
#1 · (Edited)
**Pending feedback from Malloy, this will transform into a group buy and be moved to the group buy section, then it will proceed. I have had a lot of feedback and eagerness to do this group buy to do this group buy, so this is the start of getting it moving. Please state interest and PM me for shipping outside of the US. I will deal with those members on an individual basis. Shipping is included in the US.***

Those who have responded with the desire to get in this group buy please reserve your spot here, and hold payment until I notify you that we are ready to continue.


All Questions and concerns please contact: Mitch Kadel (mkii_supra_freak)

This will the second round of the official group buy for the Solid Mount Strut Bar that has been developed over the last few months. There will be two options available listed below, but all are made of first quality materials and made by skilled tradesmen. At this time I have confirmed that it will accommodate every year mkii, with the following engine configurations. 5M, 6M, 7mgtes, 1jz & 2jzgte. They are also compatible with the rabid chimp intake pipe, front mount intercooler kit, and the T3 Camber plates.

The minimum quantity that will be required for this group by is 15-20 pieces.

The following options include shipment to the continental us. I am willing to do international shipping but there will be an additional expense for shipment, please contact me by PM for questions concerning this option.


Complete Strut Bar assembly fabricated out of aircraft grade 6061-T6 Aluminum, with SS hardware.

**Pricing Changes**

These Bars will also be sold as recieved from the manufacturer, to allow you to finish them as you desire. They Paint and polish beautifully. DO NOT POWDERCOAT.

Polishing can be had at $60 for a mirror polish due to the time required to do these bars properly.

6061-T6 Strut Assembly with NO Toyota Logo $240 Shipped [If Paypal ($247.00)]

6061-T6 Strut Assembly with Toyota Logo $260 Shipped [If Paypal ($270.00)]

Matching rear bar already in a fully polished #3 grade, for $170 Shipped. Those who purchased/purchasing the front bar will get a $10 discount on the matching rear bar.

For Paypal Payments please send to mitchkadel@aol.com.

For Money Order Submittals please send to

Mitchell Kadel
15320 Edgewater Forest Ln.
Charlotte, NC 28278.

For Photos and design details please see Below.









And of course



Because everyone wants to put a little 2JZ in it.

Thanks for your support and continued interest.
 
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#82 ·
The strut bar is more for frame rigidity. Helping to keep the vehicle from flexing under extreme weight transfer. Someone who pushes their car quite hard will find more benifit.

Over time cars begin to sag and the body shifts. The more support you have the less this happens. So it's really a good buy for anyone looking to either push the car, or simply keep the car in as good of shape as it is now.

A great looking piece only adds more reason to buy.

-Dustin-
 
#83 ·
Oh, I know exactly what they're for, and how they work. Being an Old Fart, I remember when Shelby would put their "Export Brace" on the early Mustangs. Herb Adams from VSE sold a really neat pair of braces that bolted on to the cowl, and the other end went down to the upper control arm mount on 2nd Gen GM F-Bodies, and pretty much eliminated the front subframe deflection when cornering hard. I had those, and some solid body mounts, on the '73 Trans Am I used to autocross and solo.

I definitely noticed a difference with the braces and solid body mounts, even when running on street tires.

I was just curious if you feel any difference in the Mark-II chassis. Considering they were designed a LOT later than Gen 1 Mustangs and Gen 2 F-bodies, and probably had some computer analysis of the chassis, I'm sure they're a lot stiffer than the earlier cars I mentioned.

Jim
 
#87 ·
...I was just curious if you feel any difference in the Mark-II chassis.
I put it thru some serious paces and def noticed a difference, esp when going thru some off camber twisties on a triple roundabout at speed.
I couldn't hold those lines prior to mounting the strut bar. :eek4dance:

Anyone else running bone stock intake piping and having an issue with fitment? ...
At first the bar sat too low and rubbed that intake hose. With '82 having a vacuum valve sticking up out of the EFI, it also made contact.



Then I made a couple of spacers to test fitment. Mitch followed up by supplying a matching set, fits perfectly now :thumbsup:





Easy enough to cut a set from 1/4 - 3/8 aluminum, but after install and you still need some spacers, I can send you a couple.
 
#84 ·
Anyone else running bone stock intake piping and having an issue with fitment? Maybe i'm a bonehead, ok well i am a bonehead, but maybe i'm being dumb here in particular so feel free to enlighten me. I'm hitting the vent hose, and it is rock hard and old so i can't just shove it out of the way. If i get a new one will it be pliable enough to cram it out of the way(part # 12261-43010 for like $15)? Maybe i could tie a new hose to the intake so it wouldn't hit the brace? Am i doing something dumb?

 
#86 ·
Anyone else running bone stock intake piping and having an issue with fitment? Maybe i'm a bonehead, ok well i am a bonehead, but maybe i'm being dumb here in particular so feel free to enlighten me. I'm hitting the vent hose, and it is rock hard and old so i can't just shove it out of the way.
I hit that hose too, but mine was changed recently and just got pushed out of the way when I bolted it down.


Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk
 
#89 ·
Anyone have some trouble on the rear bar? I put mine on but now my rear seats need some "persuasion" to properly lock in place. Seems like the latch is now too high up but putting a washer under the rear bolt will angle it back down. Any thoughts?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#95 ·
funny mine from this group buy are still sitting in my barn in original packaging, never opened even!
 
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