'85 door control relay insides

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  1. #1
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    '85 door control relay insides

    Hello everyone! I have an '85 p-type supra and I'm trying to fix the power locks. I removed the door control relay that's inside the driver side door and pulled the board out and it looks like it's missing a resistor. Can someone post up a picture of their board to confirm I have a connection missing ?


    Here are some pictures for what I'm referring to. The top left corner of the board and the 5th pair of holes going down.
    I don't have a picture of the backside but I'm assuming it's missing a connection because there looks like there was metal to have something connected onto the board but broke off. If that makes sense.



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  3. #2
    CelicaSupra.com Member supkar's Avatar
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    I'll see if I have a used one I can sell you pretty cheap but not willing to take one apart.
    83-Red P-type , 6M,. LJM strut-bar, RC intake,Thorley header,Tenzo 17" wheels, cross-drilled rotors, Eibach springs, KYB shocks, 85 hatch and int., 82 header panel=Frankenkar

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  4. #3
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    It looks to me like there never was any resistor in that location and that's not uncommon at all. The PCB itself may be used in more than one application. It may be an updated version still using the same PCB, etc but with different, fewer or even more components. If you were thinking that one might have been there, there would be some evidence that it had been installed such as some solder on the PCB pads.
    I've seen quite a few situations where certain parts have burned up, been vaporized, exploded, etc. and there's always some evidence of the "event". It could be a small burned black area coincidentally just about exactly the size and shape of the fried to a crackly crunch component, a burned on pattern of the explosion of the component whether it's still mostly there or not at all, or in some old phone modems where lightning had hit the phone lines, a very slight white powdery stain where the former discrete components had been.
    If you're having a particular problem with the door locks, it still might be a problem with the relay you are looking at but it's not because of a missing resister. It may be one of the other door relays or a problem with open or intermittent wires in the harness to the doors, most likely in the area between the body and doors where it flexes twice every time the door is opened and shut.
    You can either follow the troubleshooting flow chart in the TSRM and / or be specific as to the actual problem that you're having.
    If it's really important for you to see an actual picture of another one of these, I'm sure I have one and it only takes a few seconds to open it up and check it out but I really don't think that will be necessary.

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  6. #4
    Boosting Mod SilverMk2's Avatar
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    It would seem like a resistor that fell off would still be inside the electrical enclosure. Man that PCB looks ancient... You could put all those components now inside of quarter sized PCB today.

  7. #5
    CelicaSupra.com Member MrBubbles00482's Avatar
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    There is also another relay pack under the dash to the left of the steering column that actually houses the relays themselves.

    Door lock system has 4 main components that make it work, along with the factory alarm (if they all came with it?) That module your holding which takes in key cylinder input, switch input. The switch itself. The relay pack to the left of the column, and then the actuators themselves.

    I'm guessing the locks just don't work at all? What all have you troubleshot?

    Circuit goes Switch to control module, control module to relay pack under dash, relay pack to actuators.

    In order
    Test switch for ground pulse to control module in driver door
    Test for input from switch into module in driver door (from here the module pulses ground to the relay pack under dash)
    Test ground pulse at the relay pack
    Test for +12 at the relay pack
    Test for 12+ output from relay pack to actuators

    The factory alarm shouldn't cause any interference with that circuit. It can be unplugged from the vehicle completely and the door lock system still work correctly.
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  8. #6
    CelicaSupra.com Member supkar's Avatar
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    Yeah, just put a newish dash in and indeed saw the door lock relay and gave up trying to find where it installs. I could also try to find you one of these if it comes to that.
    83-Red P-type , 6M,. LJM strut-bar, RC intake,Thorley header,Tenzo 17" wheels, cross-drilled rotors, Eibach springs, KYB shocks, 85 hatch and int., 82 header panel=Frankenkar

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  9. #7
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    Super dead but thanks everyone for responding. first posted this in the middle of my semester thinking i would work on the car but got caught up with school. then i was too lazy to use my laptop all together to respond.

    The issues are, door locks not working from the inside, (& outside if unlocking one door with a key is suppose to unlock the other too). and the factory alarm going off only after unlocking the drivers side door from the outside, but not the passenger side door.

    I found another relay in the junkyard and replaced it and door locks still arent working.

    i had an RA65 in the past with power windows and locks and tested the door lock relay under the dash from my CS in the RA65, and it worked. so im assuming the under dash replay is good.

    I tested my door lock actuator in the driver side by disconnecting it from the harness and giving it +12v and it functions properly, locking and unlocking the door.

    I also tested to see if the switch was working and I was getting power when it was pushed down for both lock and unlock.

    I was going through the harness and it seems like im getting continuity between some pins,, for example. the pins for lock and unlock have continuity between them on the harness, not sure if thats correct but looking at a wiring diagram it doesnt seem correct.
    i did the same test to the door lock actuator itself and there is continuty between lock, unlock and i believe the ground pin as well.

  10. #8
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Two psycho things to check. 1) The door lock control relay in the drivers door. After years of vibration from shutting the door a bazillion times, check it for bad solder joints and possibly even failed (broken) components. I found a broken resistor in mine once and have resoldered things in it more than once. But your biggest problems are likely either broken wires to or in the drivers door or more likely, 2) corrosion in the connectors from both door harnesses just inside both kick panels. Moisture gets into these areas and you'll see a bluish green corrosion on the connectors. The bad news is that it's conductive. The only reliable way to remove it and protect the connectors is by using DeOxIt. It's a two part system and the only stuff I've used for the last.... never mind. This stuff is terrific and most other similar products are crap.
    Your key unlock / alarm problems are due to a bad key unlock switch in the drivers door. It's a very small microswitch mounted on the latch assembly but it's not all that hard to get at. Either one of the wires has corroded and fallen off or the rubber booty over the actuator failed and the switch filled up with water. It might be tricky soldering a wire back on to a terminal that's mostly not there. But I've melted just enough of the switch body away to expose enough of the terminal to solder to successfully. DeOxIt will likely fix the switch as well. If not, let us know. Someone will have usable replacements.
    Keep in mind that many of the systems in these cars are ground switched so continuity between things on the power side isn't likely your problem. Also check your passenger actuator. The main relays may be the same as Celica parts but the control relays are different.
    So as Mr. Bubbles suggested above, also check those things in the order suggested. If you still haven't figured everything out, let us know what you've done, tested with results, and what is or isn't happening. No doubt one of us smart asses / wise asses will be able to help.

  11. #9
    CelicaSupra.com Member RedP85's Avatar
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    Have had the bluish green buildup in door connector too, along with microswitch failure in the latch. Microswitch fairly easy to find replacement. Thanks for the DeOxit info, will look into that.
    -Jocelyn,
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  12. #10
    CelicaSupra.com Member drjim's Avatar
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    DeOxIt is GREAT stuff. I've been using it for years on-the-job and at home.

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