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1985 Celica Chump/WRL build

61K views 528 replies 17 participants last post by  revvhappy 
#1 · (Edited)
#424 ·
yup. Go to an automotive parts store, then buy axel studs in your application.

Aftermarket has been producing these since the dawn of time.

If you want longer ones, get truck ones. I think they pretty much all use them, but early 90s forerunners are 7mm longer as I recall.
 
#430 ·
Ohhhhh my bad, hadn't had my coffee just yet. Yeah those should be standard at any old parts store should have one close, if you send one to ARP they might have something with the right knurling that you can cut down to the right number of threads. You aren't running super high hp though and even then i've never heard of those being the failure point anyway.

http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/TOYOTA_1986_/FLANGE-SUB-ASSY--REAR-AXLE/3935283/4230322020.html



Searching the part number on google pulls up a ton of stuff that should work for you.
https://www.google.com/search?q=toy...ourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=toyota+9011410028&*
 
#431 ·
Those studs look like Suzuki Swift or Geo Metro wheel studs. 10X1.25 mm.X 35 mm long.
I don't know what grade of stud those are.
Unusual failure point. Would an 8mm dowel help to secure the flanges?
Sure,if they loosen,they will fail. All of the torque is on those studs.
Nyloks and blue Lock Tite?
 
#434 ·
YOU ARE THE MAN! I had to order one off amazon, but it came in today and it fits my friend. 1993 Geo Metro wheel studs. m10x1.25x29mm. The knurl could be slightly bigger, but it'll work. Going to use stage 8 nuts on the other side and all should be good!

 
#432 ·
The local stores didn't have it. I have another course of action in mind.

Build a pit shelf n the trailer. Thought is to have it as a bed while at track. Bought a trifold mattress that fits, and boom. No more cot.




Flipped tires. Wear was great but could be better.
 
#440 ·
Its never a bad idea to replace all of your wheel studs when you start a new old project car, especially if you're going racing. Tire and mechanics shops are notorious for over torquing wheel studs with impact guns. I've owned many cars that suffered continuous wheel stud failures. Once one goes there's a good chance the PO torqued or allowed someone to overtorque all of them. When you go to the tire shop, don't give them an application to look up the stud, just take an old one in with you and ask them to rummage around back till they find one that will work. Or ask if you can. Luckily everyone knows me at my local parts shop, I walk back and help myself, saves tons of time lol.
 
#441 ·
You are CORRECT about that.
Bring a digital caliper with you.
There are SOOOO many discontinued parts for our cars!
We need to make stuff and use a part that does not come from Toyota more often.
The used parts that come up on this forum are frikken' GOLD! Yeah,I missed the OEM side trim sale. Late to the party,again.

Bottom line is use what you can to get your ride back on the road/track!
I am in *no way* afraid to experiment at all. I can make better parts than the 80's engineers and I have done so.
3D printing of dash vents? Outstanding support to this community!

Without this forum.. Well,I just don't know what would happen.
WE ALL ROCK!
Keep on keeping on,Dudes.
We ALL deserve a big salute!:salute:
 
#442 ·
Test fit. Works great. Stage 8 prob not needed, but this will not be a failure point again. Collecting parts to fix a few things. East coast is rebuilding the space diffs I have and putting an LSD in at least one of them. I can't wait to get them back and bolt everything back up. Also need to make the spares. Been putting a lot of time into the trailer also. The last race I was able to lean on my buddy Bill, but the next two are all me. Fuel cans, EZ up, wagon, all the good stuff.

Hind sight...I should have just kept renting seat time. lol. I could have paid for many races...



 
#448 ·
For the studs: 1993 Geo Metro 10mmX1.25x29mm. I used Dorman #610-308. I wish the knurl was just slightly bigger (only 1 hard hammer and it's in), but it'll be just fine.

For the Nuts, I used Stage 8 10mmX1.25, PN 4929. But again, not required, but I wanted to feel 110% comfortable after loosing 2 axles at the last race (with 8mm bolts....). There should be a few other Stage 8 PN's that would work also.
 
#449 ·
Ok. So the changes I have decided on and performing over the next week: Rear OE sway bar going back in; 7" tall front springs over the 8"; windows, front brake pads; front aero over lights; and LSD over the welded. no changes to points, but should help with the car from what we experienced at VIR. I am happy the remaining three races this year are all double days so I can continue to work on the car. I am wanting back on the track so bad. YouTube isn't helping with NCM videos...
 
#450 ·
What are you running for front springs? i have a set of 6" 600#. I may try to find some 7 or 8" 700-800# springs for mine since the 6" have my spring perches all the way to the top. You should be able to add a Weir LSD upgrade to an OE LSD and have no points added to your budget. Mine has 10k race miles and is still working. What are you running for a rear bar?

I've been watching the same NCM videos and can't wait to drive there in June!
 
#454 ·
Yeah, if the ride height ends up being just like I want, they are yours for cheapo. 400 with the bar seems about right. I'm going to try the 55 with the bar and see what happens, but I have 400 and 300 in the trailer.
 
#455 ·
Can't believe it has almost been a month since I posted on here. What a busy month it was. I finally got to work on the car today to get her ready for NCM. I have to have it ready in a week and a half because I am going out of town AGAIN.

Pulled engine for clutch replacement. Waiting on ARP bolts now to finish. New rear spoiler, took rear axle apart (waiting for diff from East Coast Gear), redid a little wiring for cleanliness, set up cool suit and helmet blower, installed OE rear sway bar, made a naca duct inlet for helmet blower, and hard wired usb wires for GoPro's (no more plugs!). Clutch should go back in on Wednesday, swap brake pads, swap front springs, a few other little things, install diff, paint car with some color, and cut windows out and install. Easy Peasy.

Same surface area, but I think a little more aero. If not, at least it looks cool.




 
#457 ·
I know the feeling. Until this weekend I hadn't done anything to my car since the February Chump race (also prepping for NCM). I welded some O2 bungs to my header and fabricated a new intake pipe with a GM Intake Air Temp sensor that will replace the flapper door MAF.

I'm looking forward to meeting you at NCM.
 
#458 ·
Agreed. Can't wait. We will just watch out for the company we have around when we analyze each others cars! ;)

Speaking of, I think I have found a unicorn for ChumpCar. A MK3 Supra. You can put 300 Hp in the the thing, get it as light as you can (I am sure 2500 is doable), and you have a badass car for 450 points. Aero and Accusump puts you at 500. A 2GR with adapter to Supra tranny would kinda make it a mid engine car, and would already save you 150ish pounds just by engine swap. This may be my next car, if I ever have one... lol
 
#459 ·
I'm surprised that so few people have attempted a Mk3 Supra - it's so similar to the SC300 that can easily dominate in Chump with the stock 2JZ. They're a bit porky but 2700# would be realistic and certainly very capable with 300hp.

I did some research on the 4GR (IS 250) as a swap but the transmission seems like a weak point. 205hp with great fuel mileage, all aluminum, and already RWD.

I'm hoping that the Megasquirt solves my fuel range problems.
 
#463 ·
5 stints would allow 92 minutes of racing between stops once you take away the 20 minutes of mandatory pit stops. My car will do that but I'd love to be able to have only 4 stops. One good thing about going shorter than 2 hours is the lack of traffic on pit lane when you're off sequence. I wonder if the race will get 40 cars - it may get lonely out there.
 
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