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Megasquirt thread

119K views 221 replies 37 participants last post by  johnb7 
#1 · (Edited)
I occasionally have people asking for VE and spark table numbers, after start enrichment, crank settings, etc., etc.

I've been very slow to respond (sorry, I'm a lazy-ass), but I'm going to try to be pro-active in the future. PM's only inform a limited amount of viewers (the one's who ask for the info), so why not have this info readily available?

For those who want to share their progress (or problems), please post in the following format:

Engine type: i.e., 6M-GE
Ignition style: list its ignition trigger (distributor, Cam Pos Sensor, Crank Pos Sensor, etc), ignition source (MSD, stock ignitor/coil, coil packs, COP, vb921's, etc.), and any VR conditioners (HEI module, Bosch, module, onboard, etc.)
Fuel system: fuel pump(s), injector quantity, size, and resistance, and any other contributing factor regarding fuel
Periferal sensor types/part numbers: MAP/MAF, TPS, Coolant, IAT, and EGO (wideband, narrowband, or none)
MS hardware type: v2.2, v3, etc. (include and addon boards and special board configurations like jumpers and relays)
Software: Megatune version, extra firmware, and any other associated code
Other mods that may further affect MS: non-factory throttlebody, water/meth/alch. injection, engine stroking/destroking, different cams, additional injectors, cold start idle motors/valves, etc

Display screenshots of (if convenient) or describe settings, VE and Spark maps, and configurations in Megatune. You'll find that people choose very different settings to get their specific applications to work well with MT.
Include all periferal sensor readings: coolant temp, intake air temp, EGO, TPS, RPM's, MAP readings, injector PW and duty cycles, etc.
Datalogs are nice, too ;)

Describe any environmental conditions (ambient and intake air temps, barometric pressure or elevation, etc.)



Remember; more information you volunteer offers a greater chance for your situation to be rectified. Let us know what has worked for you and what hasn't. What seems to be insignificant may be detrimental to a future problem, like resistor values, relay setup, wire sizes, etc.

Also remember to fall back on the megasquirt forums http://www.msefi.com Those guys constantly see new problems and promptly try to correct them.
 
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#119 ·
My car idles pretty smooth once its warmed up. I just now started playing the warm-up enrichment and cold advance. The whole process has been relatively trouble free, which is very out of character for any other megasquirted car I've been around.
 
#121 ·
my 780's idle perfect. what brand injector are you using? and what is the minimum pulse width needed? on larger injectors the opening time is usually a lil longer. might want to adjust it in your settings. might smooth it out for you. that or drive down to my house and we can work on it till is sorted out. lol
 
#124 ·
Bring an MSII chip and some beer to Atlanta and I will make it work. I can see how MSI would struggle to control injectors that large seeing how it run slower than my TI-89 calculator from college. High resolution code would help, but I can't remember what features had to be given up for that. MSI does work well on my 440s.

-John
 
#125 ·
well... i have pretty much the same exact set up as discoelk so in an attempt to make my car run better i copied all of his tables and such to my set up and now the car runs even worse than before. Could barely get the car out of the driveway. I have no idea what i am doing wrong at this point. tried to import the previous tune I had running on the car and still runs really poorly. barely got around my block before I just gave up and went back home... smelled a new smell, popped the hood and the exhaust housing on the turbo had a slight glow... i'm really hoping I didn't cook this damn turbo considering I have about 500 miles on it since I had it rebuilt... So far I am not having fun.
 
#127 ·
I'd break out your timing light and mess with this table until what megatune says matches what your timing light says.



Basically adjust the tooth #1 angle BTDC until you get matching numbers.

I'd also add fuel and pull timing from the boosted regions of both my tables until you've got the car idling and driving smoothly.
 
#126 ·
i have an extra ms2 chip i bought when it looked like mine was bad (turned out to be a tantalum cap under it on the 3.0 board). lmk if you need it. ill sell it for way less then i paid.


jose, pm me. maybe one weekend i can come over and take a look and see if we can get it running good.
 
#133 ·
you can use the ones i posted for the 7mgte as a starter from 100kpa and below if your n/a. should get you running and driving. i wouldnt use my exact afr tables though. you can make more power by setting it to 12.5:1 in the ranges of your acceleration.
 
#134 ·
Thanks for the replies, i did find the diy page that has the maps and info. I also asked the diy guys if you could use the new ms3 daughter board with the pnp 52 kit. Not sure if it will work, but I would like the upgraded table size and the on board data logging.
 
#135 ·
for an n/a application it really isnt needed.
 
#137 · (Edited)


sounds like your acceleration enrichment are off.

as for your ignition issue. make sure the #1 wire is on the #1 post when the dizzy is at tdc. there is a 1 tooth wheel in there that denotes tdc. with the crank at 0, and that tooth lined up per the tsrm, male sure the post the rotor is pointing at is the #1 cylinder if you want those numbers to match.

also, if the timing is too high at idle itll run like crap. my idle is 10deg. idles dead smooth.
 
#138 ·
yeah i would definitely think my think my acceleration enrichment is off... seems like the major diff is the TPSdot threshold.... when I change mine to match yours though the car is almost undrivable. hesitates very badly which makes it really hard to get the car to speed.



I'll double check the physical timing in a bit... make sure its on point.
 
#139 ·
well once you change the acceleration settings, youll have to retune. itll change what the ve numbers end up being, go through the auto tune again. use the correction settings i posted a few pages back. iirc it was 5% at kpa below 85(if it is too high, it is able to adjust too much and it lets the afrs jump all over the place and itll never settle down). and yes, make sure your timing is on point. if its not, then the timing in your map, isnt the timing the engine is actually running at. not good!
 
#140 ·
alright.... total noob and I had the distributor off by one tooth (now I feel really retarded)... running much better now. actually cleaning up idle as well. Do you think it would be better to install the first map I had running and retune from that or continue to run off the map I currently have going right now?
 
#141 ·
wouldnt hurt to laod the first map and see. only takes a few seconds to switch between them.
 
#143 ·
Due to popular demand, I am sharing all my settings for my MSII V3.

http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o127/supersubs86/MegaTune/

Things to keep in mind:

1. The shown maps should only be a good basis for 5 PSI and under. I run my car to 15 PSI with AFR's safely at 10:1 to 9:1 in higher load, but indivdual tuning should be done in the upper loads.
2. IGNITION SETTINGS ARE FOR MSD 6AL. Be very carefull when loooking at my info if you want to use it, and make sure to make the needed changes for your type of ignition system.
3. Other usefull fuel info for my setup:
440 CC Injectors
Stock fuel pressure

I don't frequent the forums often anymore, but I can try to answer Q's if anyone sends them. Thanks, -Mike
 
#144 ·
so anyone have any idea why the trigger wheel setting would change from when I parked the car one after noon to the next morning when I restarted the car? It changed on its own. I had the timing set to where it needed to be. drove around with the auto tune. disconnected the laptop and drove a bit more. parked the car. next morning tried to crank up the car and the timing was way off. (checked physical timing and it was still good) hooked up the laptop and the trigger wheel setting had gone back to the value that was there before I had made the needed adjustments... just went for another drive after changing the settings again and just parked it. will have to see if it changes on its own again.
 
#145 ·
did you burn the changes to the megasquirt after you were done making them?
 
#146 ·
Hopefully some of you MS guru's will be able to help me determine what is causing the following to happen...

I am getting a lean condition and misfire at the end of 3rd and 4th gear. The data log doesn't show anything going wrong except for the AFR going lean. PW is normal, timing is as expected, the sensors are staying steady and I am not getting any sync errors or counts. This does not occur in 1st or 2nd gear at all and really doesn't happen often in 3rd gear.

I would be happy to send anyone the log file.

The car is basically stock except for an aftermarket ignition system. Stock injectors, stock distributor and VR sensors. I am running the DIY PNP megasquirt for the supra. Fuel pressure is also staying constant during the issue.

Any ideas?
 
#148 ·
is this a turbo setup or n/a? whats the gap on your plugs? distributor or coil packs? assuming its a n/a 5m, id increase the ve in the rpm and kpa range your encountering the problem. that or increase the % of duty cycle added at 100% tps reading on the acceleration enrichment table. if it makes no change, id check the strength of your ignition system. coil could be weak or plug gaps too large. if its a turbo setup, id change to a colder plug with a slightly smaller gap, then increase the ve% in that range.
 
#150 ·
yeah, going rich, worst case is fouling plugs. if you go lean, you could blow the hg, bust a ring land, burn an exhaust valve, or melt a piston.
 
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