Let me first say that removing a transmission is NOT a one person job, and you should expect to spend at least 3 to 4 hours for removal and another 3 to 4 for installation. I also suggest reading through this tutorial in it's gruesome entirety before printing it out and bringing it with you. In order to remove the transmission, a number of items must be addressed beforehand:
-Disconnect battery
-Remove the shifter
-Drain the gear oil from the transmission
-Unbolt the slave cylinder but do not unhook the hydraulic line
-Unhook the backup light switch
-Unhook the speedometer gear cable
-Unbolt the center bearing support under the driveshaft
-Separate the intermediate driveshaft from the rear section and withdraw it from the output shaft on the transmission
-Disconnect the electrical connections from the starter and unbolt and remove it
-Unbolt the exhaust clamp from the y-pipe and unbolt the support bolted to the bellhousing (unless you have headers)
-Unbolt the 8 bellhousing bolts
-Unbolt the transmission from the rear mount
-Support the transmission with a jack and unbolt the rear mount from the body
-Withdraw the transmission by moving it towards the rear of the car until the input shaft has cleared the pressure plate
WARNING: Do NOT let the transmission fall!! Not only does it weigh in excess of 70 pounds, but the extension housing is made of a semi-soft metal which tends to be rather malleable and you can expect damage if it falls the 2-3 feet from the tranny tunnel.
Once you have your w58 removed, it's time to take it apart. You will need the following tools:
-12mm socket
-14mm socket
-snapring pliers (or very strong needlenose pliers)
-toyota gasket set (part #04331-20050 to come soon)
-metric allen wrenches
-random length of wood
-mallet
-latex gloves (reccommended -- it tends to be incredibly greasy)
-wd40 (i chose to go nuts and degrease my entire extensiong housing -- took me and my dad over 3 hours to complete the job)
The extension housing dust cover, which protects the output shaft and is already shown removed in this picture, can be removed by tapping it sharply around the rim with a hammer. Next step to remove the release fork and the release bearing hub assembly. The release hub is held to the fork by two clips which can be removed quite easily. The fork is then attached to a pivot ball by a clip on the underside of the fork. You can remove the fork by pull the fork towards the input shaft.
Release fork and bearing hub removed
After removing the release fork and bearing hub, the bellhousing itself can be removed. There are nine 14mm bolts on the inside of the bellhousing that are unbolted before the bellhousing can be removed.
Use a length of wood and a mallet to knock off the bellhousing. Do not directly strike the metal. Strike the bellhousing in several spots around the rim. You will want someone else to hold the rest of the tranny so it doesn't move too much.
The tailshaft can now be removed. There are six 12mm bolts holding the tailshaft to the extension housing. Once unbolted, the upper metal section can be removed, as well as the rubber hood/gasket under this. Do not get rid of this piece of rubber.
Tailshaft unbolted and removed
With the tailshaft and bellhousing removed, the front bearing cover's six 12mm bolts can be removed. After being unbolted, it should pull right off, exposing the two snaprings that must be removed before going any further.
Snaprings exposed and pointed to -- one for each shaft.
There are now eight 14mm bolts that are holding the two halves of the extension housing together and to the intermediate plate. Once these are removed, the same technique used to remove the bellhousing from the extension housing (see above) can be used to separate the front half of the extension housing. There will be small tabs on the side of the transmission that serve as good points for a piece of wood to whack.
Front extension housing removed. Make sure to keep the gears clean and keep the input shaft supported by a block of wood.
The back half of the extension housing is a bit more involved to remove. The speedometer driven gear can be removed with a pair of vise grips (just twist and pull it out). The two large restrict pins near the shifter retainer are 15/16". The shifter housing retainer bolt (12mm) also needs to be removed. With these items removed, the rear half can be tapped off in a similar manner to the front half of the extension housing. Carefully remove the extension housing and catch the shifter housing retainer as it clears the shifter rod. Also be sure to catch the shifter rod as it falls from the extension housing.
Rear extension housing removed -- shifter rod in hand.
Your w58 transmission is now fully disassembled. Reassembly is a little tricky. Placing the extension housing gaskets requires a second person while lining up the extension housing. I also had a problem that when i tried to slide the rear extension housing onto the gears, it would contact the number 3 shift fork and put the transmission in reverse. Reverse is a tricky gear because for someone reason unknown to me, you cannot get the gears out of reverse just by moving the shift fork back to neutral with your hands. Rather, remove the rear extension housing, find an allen wrench and unscrew the corresponding allen bolt for the shift fork on the intermediate plate to let some pressure off the interlock pin so you can move the shift fork back to neutral. Once done, retighten the allen bolt, and try to replace the housing. Also, you need to make sure that the shifter rod is in the right place, and the shifter housing retainer is facing in the right direction. You will be able to see if the gears are in neutral once the rear extension housing is in place if the shifter retainer bolt is put into place and the retainer stands straight up. With the retainer installed, bolt the restrict pins back in. The front extension housing should go on quite easily, but you may want to use some gear oil (the same stuff you plan to fill it with once it's in the car) on the two holes where the input shaft and counter shaft poke through. Replace the snaprings and bolt on the front bearing cover. Make sure to use a thread locking compound on the bolts that hold the two halves of the extension housing together, the front bearing cover, the bellhousing to extension housing bolts, and the allen bolts that hold in the interlock pins if you needed to take those out. Torque numbers are not all that important since the threadlock compound is used, but the extension housing bolts should be torqued to about 30 ft-lbs, the front bearing cover bolts to 25 ft-lbs, and the bellhousing to extension housing bolts to 27 ft-lbs. Grease the contact points on the release bearing hub assembly and release fork pivot ball with multi-purpose grease, and reinstall the fork. With the fork installed, you can slide the release bearing hub on the input shaft cover and clip it to the fork.
With the transmission rebuilt, it can go back under your car in the reverse order of removal. If you need a clutch job, now is a good time for it. You may also want to inspect your flywheel and have it ground if necessary. With the transmission back in, don't forget to reattach all the wires, cables, the slave cylinder, and refill the transmission with new gear oil. I highly reccommend using a good quality synthetic gear oil. It will run you in the neighborhood of $27 for the necessary 2.6 quarts, but you really should never have to change your gear oil, so it's an excellent investment.
If you have any questions regarding tranny work, you can email me at falconindy@yahoo.com.
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