Well, after sitting on the JDK BBK for years (since the first GB), I finally got around to installing them. I decided that while I was at it I'd also replace the wheel bearings. I haven't posted on CS that much lately, so I figured I'd take pics and actually contribute something for a change Heres the how to:
Jack the car up, place it on jack stands, and remove the front wheels.
Remove the grease cap by prying it off with a flat tipped screwdriver:
Remove the nut cover and the cotter pin which holds it in place. It may help to tap it out with a hammer:
Remove the nut:
Remove the outer bearing washer:
Remove the outer bearing:
Now, remove the hub assembly from the spindle. It may slide out by hand, or you may need to use a 3 jaw puller to get it off. My driver's side came out smooth, but my passenger side needed to be pulled:
Once you get the hub off, flip it over and remove the dust seal. It's in there pretty good. Place a block on the disc for some leverage and use a large screwdriver to pry it out:
After you get the dust seal off, remove the inner bearing:
Clean the inside of the hub thoroughly. There may be some metal shavings, so make sure you get it good and clean:
raptor racing has bbk kits now you can find it it in the group by section i bought my white line sway bars front and back and the hole exhaust with the poly bushing and t3 plates got everthing but only installed the whole exhaust, headers all the way to the back sounds great and gave me some more power,i will also be getting this kit god willing every one who gets this kit will need 16 inch wheels at least to fit them in.
Uhm the easiest way to take the inner seal out of the hub is to tke the spindle nut off pull out the outer bearing then put the nut back on the spindle with the hub/rotor still on it then pull real hard and the inner bearing catches the nut and pulls the seal wont hurt the bearings @ all im a technician and thats how i do all the wheel bearings @ work but thtas just a suggestion:suicide::mm_twak:
Wow you made that look like cake but i got a problem with my rear suspention i cant figure out how to remove the rear axle shaft to swap it out for the rear left spindle any advise?
One needs to file off that "bell" lip on the lower control arm near the ball joint.
If I recall correctly, about 1/16" max. I have a set of rotors that have a nice little score.
I think I posted something on the yahoo list eons ago.
i think they pull air from the center. most cooling ducts ive seen aim at the center of the rotor on the back. kinda hard to get air in the rotor from the outside with the wheel in the way.
anyone have a rear BBK instalation with pictures?
i have issue with the brake line which seem too short...and another issue with bolt too long,need to cut to not touch the rotor..
that seem odd .
if anyone could help me
I just sent you a message on MSN...please measure the brake lines you have. There is no reason they should be too short; but as we all know mistakes do happen. In regards to the bolts connecting the hat to the rotor this would be the first time I'm hearing from anyone that that bolts were too long. I have a few sets here in stock, after I get back from my appointment I will double check to see if I have the same issue.
In regards to a write up so far there isn't one. Joseph (White_MK_2) will be installing them on his MK2 in the next couple of weeks and said he's going to do a write up for me/us.
I'm sorry for the hassles you're having my friend .
If you have a RA65 lower arm and you have 33mm RCA's with the suspension dropped about 1.5 inch you are gonna need more than just a file. I had to take so much material that I'm now afraid it will strongly affect the structural stiffness of the entire arm. I have about 1/4 of metal left around the ball joint. I'm planning to weld a thick sheet of metal under the arm to prevent the end from opening and get some rigidity back.
After some reconsideration I should have pulled off the RCA's mesure my stuff and machine the RCA's so I wouldn't have had to remove that much material.
No worry about running hard on it as the car might not run at all for at least 2 month (1UZ). As for cutting the RCA's I have acces to a machine shop. It should only take few minutes to modify.
Whats the brake pedal travel like after going from single piston calipers to four piston? Just wondering coz im gona be doing a similar upgrade but using Brembos off a Evo VI & have heard of the brake pedal just going straight to the floor when changing to multi piston calipers & using the standard master cylinder in alot of cars
Great write up. Love the trick to get the rotors off of the hub assembly. Wish I tried that before I gave up replacing my rotors this weekend. Oh well, I'll try again next week now.
I know I am bringing this thread back from the dead, but I have a Jim King BBK, both front and rear, en route from Raptor Racing. I have searched but cannot find any significant discussion of this kit and the OEM brake master. Since, as I understand it, total pad surface area has a direct impact on brake feel and effectiveness, I am wondering if anyone has any pad surface area data comparing the OEM pads to the Wilwood Dynalite pads. Also, if anyone has installed the MKIII brake master as part of the Jim King BBK upgrade, I would very much like to hear how that worked out. Any and all input is greatly appreciated.
Use a master cylinder from a 92-95 4runner it's a 100% direct bolt in and has a larger bore as needed to match the larger calipers. This is what I run wih the same BBK kit on my car.
^^Many thanks, Dave. This information will prove to be quite helpful. Thanks for blazing the trail.
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