Come on man! Those instructions were written with small ladies in mind. Snug up the filter and then give it the spec turn with your man grip.
A man grip is fine, if you can get in there in order to grip it--I can't. Maybe I haven't found the sweet spot to get at it, but compared to every other car I've ever owned, this filter is in a poor location (not to mention the way it mounts). Toyota does so many things right (at least they used to), how did this get into the design?
I work in the filter industry, and those specs are there for a reason. There have been issues with some filters/manufacturers with the material used for the gasket necessitating specific requirements for tightening--not every filter has the same specs for tightening. Engineers establish a certain specification for a reason. Yes, generally a ballpark tightening is just fine, but there have been instances where improper tightening has been a problem.
04-25-2019, 07:34 PM
Toyota m series is a grab bag from 1950s domestic straight sixes. Ford thread on the oil filter nipple, so universal ford relocation kit.
04-27-2019, 08:28 PM
Unless you REALLY need one,,,,,,,,,,,,do not do it!
I did a remote spin-on filter for my A/T tranny and it ALWAYS leaks!
Continuous rust treatment.
If those lines fail,I will lose the tranny.
I have done oil/filter changes on a filter that EYE installed to specs and the bastard was tight,beyond belief.
They do get tight on their own. That's what the oil filter wrenches are for.Some cars are crazy-hard to get to!
2001 Civic's come to mind.
05-02-2019, 02:40 AM
I too hate the OEM oil filter location so installed a remote decades ago. There's a few things to consider though. First, don't bother buying any kits. The hoses are crap and won't last long and the cheap cast adapters can be a problem as well. I cracked my first cheap on engine adapter trying to get it tight enough not to leak. I would suggest Earl's for the two adapters. The engine adapter is a standard Ford item as is the filter mount. But you'll need to figure out where you plan to mount the filter to determine which adapter you need.
I also discovered that the only o-rings that work on the engine adapter for long without leaking is one from an actual oil filter. None of the special o-rings that came with any of the adapters or any of the multitude of others I tried worked without leaking for long. So I bought the cheapest oil filter with the correct size o-ring and haven't had any problems since.
I have my filter mounted under the passenger headlight behind the bumper which makes it a breeze to change without the mess of spilled oil. It also allows me to pre-fill the filter when replacing it. I suppose it might be somewhat vulnerable to road debris mounted there, but a simple shield made from a cut down coffee can or something similar would fix that. But in 30+ years, I've never had a problem.
For the hoses and fittings, on the engine adapter the fittings are too close to use more than 1 45 degree fitting, so I just used standard nipples. Same on the filter mount. Have your hoses custom made at a place like Napa. They'll use high pressure, high quality hydraulic hoses which will last for many years. I had them use 45 degree fittings on the engine ends which allows the hoses to be as far as practical away from the hot header/exhaust and 90 degree fittings at the filter mount end. I looped the hoses above the filter to keep them as short and straight as possible.