That could certainly work, but since you aren't exactly opposed to doing welding on the car itself, you might want to consider welding an ear to the shock tower itself with a hole in it, then bolting your bar to that ear. The shock itself is meant to have some isolation from the body the way it mounts with the rubber bushings, and its ok if it moves a little. But having the shock tower itself move isn't great.
08-12-2019, 06:28 PM
That would certainly be easier, and save me some hardware cost, so I like the idea already.
What implications would that have on rust issues in between the layers of metal composing the shock tower? I was already going to go over the majority of the car with fresh seam sealer, so if that is all is required, then that would be great.
You recommend Pro Form Seam Sealer right? Which kind? There seems to be epoxy, rubber and urethane options.
Also what is a good acid etch Primer you'd recommend?
08-14-2019, 04:23 PM
I see a bunch of spot welds on the shock tower portion the shock bolts too. Can't remember off hand what the piece of steel those attach looks like on the other side, but the ideal would be to weld above those spot welds where there is only 1 layer of steel so you can clean up the welds on both sides. No implications then, but yeah, welding where the spot welds are means you couldn't clean up the other side nicely.
I recommend this stuff for seam sealer. White for interior, black for the underside of the car. Rocker guard will actually shrink back a little when you spray overtop so it will look funny if you use the white on the underside. http://ca.proformproducts.com/userfi.../PF-212-GR.jpg
I havn't found an Acid Etch I really hated yet. They all seems to work fairly well as advertised, unlike Weld Thru primers. Speaking of, Lordco (our local parts chain) just dropped Plastikote for Duplicolor so I am in the midst of trying out a new weld thru. A copper one, hope it works.
08-14-2019, 06:32 PM
I'll wire everything off and take a looksie when I get a chance. Seems like plenty of space to work with between the top and those spot welds.
I've been using the plastikote everywhere on my car as well as on my store of sheet metal. It seems to work pretty well for short term but if you look at it funny it scrapes off. I'm on my last can and I think I had to order it through a local supplier. Ironically the metal tops of the cans came rusted.
Thanks for the Pro Form rec. Rubber instead of urethane based? Aren't a lot of the newer urethane ones supposed to not dry up/shrink over time? Or have they solved that problem on the rubber based ones now as well?
08-20-2019, 02:14 PM
Here's what I'm working with on the tower.
There's a small segment of tower between the top reinforcement and the multi layer mess below the tower. Not a lot of flexibility there for tabs.
There is an opportunity here to stitch weld the top reinforcement plate to the tower, however it's pretty well spot welded from the factory and I'm not sure the risk/reward is worth it. Obviously I'm going to end up sealing all of this later anyway.
Thinking about it more, I'm going to pass on tying in the shock tower for now. Between using my eyeballs and handtools for all my fabrication, and the distortion of welding, I already am having things slightly not line up. I had to cut the reinforcement plate on the right side to bend the plate back to flat and weld in a sliver to fill in the space, the left side I didn't have to do that, but I do have to pull a little to get everything lined up.
So here is where it sits, I'm going to clean up the welds and paint everything and move on to the next points - filling in the antenna hole, possibly front shock tower reinforcement, fill in the hole in the front metal where someone cut for the FMIC.
Then once I'm as prepared as I can be, gonna start on that quarter panel and rocker, which I'm incredibly nervous for.