Differential Rebuild - Truetrac, 1310 U-ioints - Page 2

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  1. #11
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    I believe one other person has reported the smaller case size besides us with the diff we put into DeanFuns 85. I was going to ask about that, did your diff guy report having issues using factory carrier shims? I would like to know if ours was a "made on friday afternoon special", or if they actually intentionally changed the case size and all forthcoming cases are going to be like that.

    Also I was going to mention since it hasn't come up here yet, its always best to source a complete pumpkin with the gear set already in it that you want vs swapping in another R&P. You wouldn't have run into this since you ended up with a used case by necessity, but we swapped in a low miles 3.72 R&P from another diff and it highly complicated the install. The pumpkin cases, R&P and the pinion spacers (not the one for backlash) are a matched set. If you change any one of those 4 items, you are stuck using a monotonous process of trial and error of trying different pinion spacers till you get the pinion depth and pattern correct. Not to mention you will need a large range of pinion spacers on hand, and you will either need the weir solid pinion spacer kit (for setting backlash) or a large collection of crush spacers as you will burn one on every pinion spacer trial.
    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
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  3. #12
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    Yeah, setting pinion depth can be a pain - you can do it without crushing a tube every time (the TSRM shows the way) but it is still preferable to get a pumpkin that has the gear ratio you want from the start.
    '84 P-type, 5spd, torrid red, black/grey leather
    Built 7MGTE (JE's, ARP studs, MHG), BOSS STG4 60mm, AEM standalone, R154, 2 1/2" IC and 3" turbo back - the works
    Coilovers, ROH wheels, 4 corner BBK, Konis, ADDCO bars, PST bushings etc. etc.

  4. #13
    CelicaSupra.com Member solid693's Avatar
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    if you get the marlin flange what else is needed to beef up the rear end? and drive shaft also?
    1984 MKIISupra parts car, 1986 MKIISupra daily driver

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  6. #14
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    I don't think the marlin flange fits 7.5" diffs. Better to get a used one from the yard.

    Other than that, a solid pinion spacer, truetrac limited slip and quality gear set-up will do the trick. See my notes about pattern vs backlash and increasing carrier bearing preload on the previous page. I am experimenting with adding a .020 shim under the carrier bearing on the ring gear side of the truetrac, as a solution to ones that are a little 'short' and impossible to set up properly with the shim washer sizes available.
    '84 P-type, 5spd, torrid red, black/grey leather
    Built 7MGTE (JE's, ARP studs, MHG), BOSS STG4 60mm, AEM standalone, R154, 2 1/2" IC and 3" turbo back - the works
    Coilovers, ROH wheels, 4 corner BBK, Konis, ADDCO bars, PST bushings etc. etc.

  7. #15
    CelicaSupra.com Member solid693's Avatar
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    https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/d...rential-flange
    So this won't work?! I'm trying to make a list of this I'm going to need for my swap


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    1984 MKIISupra parts car, 1986 MKIISupra daily driver

  8. #16
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    Nope. That is for the spline on an 8" diff pinion gear. Too big for a 7.5"
    '84 P-type, 5spd, torrid red, black/grey leather
    Built 7MGTE (JE's, ARP studs, MHG), BOSS STG4 60mm, AEM standalone, R154, 2 1/2" IC and 3" turbo back - the works
    Coilovers, ROH wheels, 4 corner BBK, Konis, ADDCO bars, PST bushings etc. etc.

  9. #17
    CelicaSupra.com Member solid693's Avatar
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    ahh thanks funky for the correction, so pretty much get a used one or get the yukon gotcha
    1984 MKIISupra parts car, 1986 MKIISupra daily driver

  10. #18
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    Used ones are easy to find. Pretty much any front 7.5 diff from a 4wd pickup/taco/4runner or rear 7.5 from an older pickup or 4runner will have the correct flange.
    '84 P-type, 5spd, torrid red, black/grey leather
    Built 7MGTE (JE's, ARP studs, MHG), BOSS STG4 60mm, AEM standalone, R154, 2 1/2" IC and 3" turbo back - the works
    Coilovers, ROH wheels, 4 corner BBK, Konis, ADDCO bars, PST bushings etc. etc.

  11. #19
    CelicaSupra.com Member Tire Shredder's Avatar
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    The first post in this thread needs to be updated if a mod can edit that for me it will help somebody in the future.

    The truetrac's side gears need to be modified by a machine shop. In it's stock form, the circlips on the output stubs in my LSD differential DO NOT engage! I am not sure when in history this changed but it was something i was not aware of when I built the diff, and when first assembled, the output stubs fit so snugly you may not be able to tell.

    this means the output stub can potentially slide out and cause leaks and compromise spline engagement. Both cases can lead to a failure. I noticed this during my annual inspection and fortunately nothing had leaked or failed yet.

    The solution for me was to disassemble the differential again, and remove some of the internal spline while giving it a chamfer similar to stock. I was told 3mm was removed but I recommend you take your own measurements with a trial fit before committing to final installation and shimming. When done, it looked like this:

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  12. #20
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    Common issue. The 'proper' fix is to use open diff stub shafts - the clip on them sits a bit deeper into the diff and will lock properly with the truetrac gears. You can also just replace the clips with new ones that are nice and stiff - this will provide enough retention to keep the shafts in, since we use plunge joints on the CV shafts there won't be any force to pull the stubs out when driving. I have run a truetrac like this for YEARS without the side shafts being pulled out, and with a new clip on each one you still need a prybar to pop them out (although it is easier than with a diff where they lock properly).
    '84 P-type, 5spd, torrid red, black/grey leather
    Built 7MGTE (JE's, ARP studs, MHG), BOSS STG4 60mm, AEM standalone, R154, 2 1/2" IC and 3" turbo back - the works
    Coilovers, ROH wheels, 4 corner BBK, Konis, ADDCO bars, PST bushings etc. etc.

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