Resto mod from rolling shell

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\r\n I pushed out the bushings for the rear subframe, rear diff support and one rear control arm.
\nI also saved the metal sleeve from the Toe adjustment hole so only need 3 more.
\nLooks like the poly bushings just go into the subframe parts without an outer metal sleeve, but for the control arm they fit inside the outer metal sleeve?
\nI couldn\'t get the outer metal sleeve out for the RC arm so I hope this is the case.\r\n
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\r\n\r\n'; pd[1304895] = '\r\n
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    \r\n More questions build up. How much axial play in the Rack End ball joints is acceptable? I have a very small amount, and if it\'s within spec I wouldn\'t worry about it, but if it\'s not I\'ll replace the ball joints I guess? Both rack boots had been torn for who knows how long so it\'s possible they took damage from that.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304897] = '\r\n
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    \r\n The rack boots protect the ends from dirt. If a boot is torn open,check the ball end and clean it the best that you can.
    \n I\'ll guess that an acceptable limit is 1/16 " "play".Grease on the outside of the ball end will retard dirt intrusion.
    \nReplace the rack boot,in any case.
    \nWater is another bad thing to get in there.
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    \n There is a pressed in seal,just inboard of that joint. If it is leaking ATF fluid,it\'s time to replace the entire rack and pinion.
    \nThat leaking fluid with attract dirt.
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    \n One more thing: The power steering fluid NEVER gets filtered;it will re circulate the crap in the system,continually.
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    \nEarly GM FWD cars developed "morning sickness"that caused difficult steering effort,until the fluid got warm.
    \nMostly caused my aluminum dust in the system. The spool valve gets clogged full of crap.
    \n I have seen filters for the power steering fluid and it looks effective.
    \n I use magnets in my reservoir to contain metal particles.
    \nA DIY power steering fluid flush is a messy ordeal!\r\n
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    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304903] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ddd228\r\n View Post\r\n
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    The rack boots protect the ends from dirt. If a boot is torn open,check the ball end and clean it the best that you can.
    \n I\'ll guess that an acceptable limit is 1/16 " "play".Grease on the outside of the ball end will retard dirt intrusion.
    \nReplace the rack boot,in any case.
    \nWater is another bad thing to get in there.
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    \n There is a pressed in seal,just inboard of that joint. If it is leaking ATF fluid,it\'s time to replace the entire rack and pinion.
    \nThat leaking fluid with attract dirt.
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    \n One more thing: The power steering fluid NEVER gets filtered;it will re circulate the crap in the system,continually.
    \n
    \nEarly GM FWD cars developed "morning sickness"that caused difficult steering effort,until the fluid got warm.
    \nMostly caused my aluminum dust in the system. The spool valve gets clogged full of crap.
    \n I have seen filters for the power steering fluid and it looks effective.
    \n I use magnets in my reservoir to contain metal particles.
    \nA DIY power steering fluid flush is a messy ordeal!
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    Excellent, there is less than 1/32nd play it seems. You can feel it move but you can\'t really see it if you\'re holding it up to anything measurement-wise.
    \nNot sure how well it holds fluid yet, it\'s been empty this whole time I\'ve had it. I\'ll fill it up off the car first I guess? Everything looks pretty clean regardless of the boot being torn.
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    \nThanks for answering. Now I just need some clarification on poly bushings and I\'ll be good to go... Pretty much all of my subframe members and suspension parts are rust free. Only one or two I have to touch up before putting everything back together.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304983] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Been super lazy recently, I\'m working in my dad\'s shed and it\'s packed full of stuff, so before I can set up a bunch of welding equipment a lot of things need to be tossed and re-arranged. I was kind of just sitting until that happened, but I realized recently I should be working on bushings and whatnot for the subframe.
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    \nSubframe and suspension parts are in tip top shape aside from a couple spots of rust here and there. I know it\'s not designed for this, but I bought too much of it, so I\'m playing around with POR15 some in the rusty or bare spots. If it doesn\'t work it doesn\'t work, I\'ll do something else. I also painted it over the super rusty interior dash beam as a kind of test. And tried it on the wheel well seam because why not... even if it works I\'m still gonna paint + seam seal + coat it afterwards.
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    \nA side note, I cannot get the front control arm and steering dohicky apart. I have a new boot I want to put on the small joint here.
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    \nI would also like a new boot for the big one here but would toyota have factory fresh ones?
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304987] = '\r\n
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    \r\n To release the outer tie rod end,mount the steering arm in a BIG vise,put the castle nut on 1/2 way.(IMPORTANT)
    \n Smack the steering arm where it attaches to the steering arm with a BIG hammer. The hammer blows will distort the tie rod mounting,just enough for the rod end to pop out. Don\'t try a puller for that job;the rod end is too soft and you will bugger it up.
    \n After the third swing,flip it around and do that to the opposite side,if it hasn\'t popped out,yet. Don\'t use heat,but you could try some penetration oil.
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    \n The lower ball joint comes with a boot.
    \nWhat you are pointing at is where the strut mounts to. ...It\'s been a while. Just fill it with oil or seal it with RTV.\r\n
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    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    \r\n\'84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304989] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ddd228\r\n View Post\r\n
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    To release the outer tie rod end,mount the steering arm in a BIG vise,put the castle nut on 1/2 way.(IMPORTANT)
    \n Smack the steering arm where it attaches to the steering arm with a BIG hammer. The hammer blows will distort the tie rod mounting,just enough for the rod end to pop out. Don\'t try a puller for that job;the rod end is too soft and you will bugger it up.
    \n After the third swing,flip it around and do that to the opposite side,if it hasn\'t popped out,yet. Don\'t use heat,but you could try some penetration oil.
    \n
    \n The lower ball joint comes with a boot.
    \nWhat you are pointing at is where the strut mounts to. ...It\'s been a while. Just fill it with oil or seal it with RTV.
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    I tried smacking the top of the bolt with a big hammer some, not with the castle nut on, but it didn\'t budge. I used the puller to push out some old rubber and I gotta say it\'s the most infuriating tool I\'ve ever used.
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    \nHonestly both the ball joints are great, no play in them whatsoever, the boots are just dry rotted so I\'d like to replace both of them... I wanted to disconnect the steering arm from the control arm just to replace that boot but if it isn\'t possible I\'ll just refill the grease and let it be.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304991] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Big Hammer no good. OFC in the service manual the say to use SST, which is just their own homebrew puller -_-
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304993] = '\r\n
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    \r\n If you use that junk tool,be sure to run the castle nut on it upside down to avoid buggering the top of it.Flush with the end.
    \nThose tie rod ends are made of soft steel. If you need to use a little HEAT,use a hair dryer or a heat gun,not a torch.
    \n Don\'t give up on the BFH,yet. It has never failed to separate them tight/rusty joints. The steering arm is made of soft steel,too.\r\n
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    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    \r\n\'84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304995] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Texasissouth\r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n Hell is SST
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    \nNow how to I get this Nut back to 56 lb/ft; I can\'t find where I\'m supposed to hold onto the ball joint to keep it from spinning. \r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304997] = '\r\n
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    Join Date
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    Location
    N. Seattle.
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    \r\n GOOD JOB!!!!!
    \nJust grease the tapered part of the tie rod end and gently tap it into place.
    \nBe sure that the threads and not damaged,first.A little oil will help to lube the threads,first.
    \nYou may need to use a thread file to the threads.
    \nhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Repa...-/372349145095
    \nUnless you have some metric DIES.
    \n Use an impact gun to get \'er down,carefully. Even an electric one will work fine.
    \nI have a 12 V. one that does OK.\r\n
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    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    \r\n\'84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.
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  • \r\n'; pd[1304999] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Texasissouth\r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n Threads seem fine, nut will go up and down the whole length. Only have standard dies in this household, no metric sadly.
    \nI just hadn\'t thought to tap it in with a SFH before trying to screw it in.
    \nBall joint seems to be in great shape, old grease looked bad though, so I repacked it with some synthetic grease and slapped the new boot on.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305117] = '\r\n
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    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Location
    Vancouver, BC
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    \r\n I have an off the shelf 2 jaw puller that works great on the tie rod ends.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305173] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Texasissouth\r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend\r\n View Post\r\n
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    I have an off the shelf 2 jaw puller that works great on the tie rod ends.
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    My three jaw puller worked very well on the rear control arms. Though I hate it, most frustrating tool I\'ve ever used in my life. The amount of force required to separate the tie rod ends was phenomenal, I doubt any puller would have worked.
    \n
    \nAny inputs on installing poly bushings? it seems some you need the old metal sleeve around them and some you don\'t. Just go by what fits I guess?
    \n
    \nOff the top of my head, the subframes don\'t seem to need the sleeve, but the control arms front and rear seem to need the sleeve.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305215] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Texasissouth\r\n \r\n
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    \r\n \r\n CelicaSupra.com Member\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n POR15 coating on parts seems serviceable even if it\'s not applied ideally... I think it will be fine. Pressed in some new bushings today
    \n
    \nAlso just noticed some weirdness I\'m not sure how I didn\'t spot until today. There seems to be a dent in the front frame rail inside the engine bay. My guess is since this car has had a 1J swap before it got donked during a engine pull out- put in. I\'m not super worried about it but should I be? I guess I\'ll measure some of the reference distances given in the TSRM and make sure they\'re all kosher.
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305475] = '\r\n
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    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Location
    Vancouver, BC
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    \r\n Yup that looks like some BFH clearancing there.
    \n
    \nBushings, depends on the brand. Some come with new sleeves, some don\'t. Raptor took care of that at one point and someone made some before, I believe that was for the Energy Suspension bushings. The SuperPros come with them as I recall.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305547] = '\r\n
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    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n Bushings fit pretty easy. I used a neighbors press to install them which was so much easier. The LCA bushing comes with this donut that I think I know where it goes but I\'m not positive.
    \n
    \nI need a new boot for the ball joint connection for the steering arm. Energy generic boot fits the smaller tie rod joint, but I\'m not sure what my options are for the bigger one that is wired on.
    \n
    \nThe ball itself seems fine, no play, but there was no zerk fitting installed on the bottom which means the chocolate pudding I cleaned off the joint was probably factory grease. Gonna install a fitting and pump it full of synthetic and hopefully force out the majority of the old grease, just need a boot.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305557] = '\r\n
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    Aug 2011
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    Arlington, WA
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    \r\n New ball joint boots and the wires are still available new from Toyota. And the deal on the grease fittings IIRC, is that Toyota recommended installing them to grease the ball joints and then reinstalling the plug. That would certainly prevent them being damaged relatively easily from road debris or driving over a curb or something similar and bottoming out.
    \r\nOn the ES front LCA bushings, there\'s a design flaw. Compared to the OEM bushings that also hold the arm in position front to back, installing the ES bushings into the OEM shell and then installing their "thrust washer" on the rear side doesn\'t totally take up all the space between the arm and its mounting flange, which allow the arm to move front to back some. NOT GOOD. I sent many pics and measurements to ES and their product manager stated that they\'d been selling them for years and no one had reported any problems? He finally offered to send me a second set of thrust washers to try. Unfortunately, 2 together was a bit too thick and they almost instantly worked as out of position as possible away from each other. I finally decided that the proper solution was to have 5mm thick aluminum "spacers" made with the ID to fit over the rear of the OEM shell and OD a little larger than their provided thrust washer. Problem totally solved. At the time, it wasn\'t much more expensive to have 6 sets of them made than 1 or 2, and I knew that others would need them as well. They\'re long since gone but easily remade. Everyone that installed them said they were the perfect fix for the flawed design.
    \r\nWhy did I go to all the trouble of trying to deal directly with ES? Because it was the right thing to do to solve the problem. Unfortunately it was like arguing with rocks and negotiating with terrorists. The only real reason I bothered at all is because their bushing are the only ones that aren\'t so rock hard that they could easily be mistaken for solid metal ones. They\'re a nice upgrade from even new OEM rubber without a huge ride and noise penalty.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305565] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Texasissouth\r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ray85p\r\n View Post\r\n
    \r\n
    New ball joint boots and the wires are still available new from Toyota. And the deal on the grease fittings IIRC, is that Toyota recommended installing them to grease the ball joints and then reinstalling the plug. That would certainly prevent them being damaged relatively easily from road debris or driving over a curb or something similar and bottoming out.
    \nOn the ES front LCA bushings, there\'s a design flaw. Compared to the OEM bushings that also hold the arm in position front to back, installing the ES bushings into the OEM shell and then installing their "thrust washer" on the rear side doesn\'t totally take up all the space between the arm and its mounting flange, which allow the arm to move front to back some. NOT GOOD. I sent many pics and measurements to ES and their product manager stated that they\'d been selling them for years and no one had reported any problems? He finally offered to send me a second set of thrust washers to try. Unfortunately, 2 together was a bit too thick and they almost instantly worked as out of position as possible away from each other. I finally decided that the proper solution was to have 5mm thick aluminum "spacers" made with the ID to fit over the rear of the OEM shell and OD a little larger than their provided thrust washer. Problem totally solved. At the time, it wasn\'t much more expensive to have 6 sets of them made than 1 or 2, and I knew that others would need them as well. They\'re long since gone but easily remade. Everyone that installed them said they were the perfect fix for the flawed design.
    \nWhy did I go to all the trouble of trying to deal directly with ES? Because it was the right thing to do to solve the problem. Unfortunately it was like arguing with rocks and negotiating with terrorists. The only real reason I bothered at all is because their bushing are the only ones that aren\'t so rock hard that they could easily be mistaken for solid metal ones. They\'re a nice upgrade from even new OEM rubber without a huge ride and noise penalty.
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    Excellent, I\'ll have to call some dealerships with a part number from the book. I had assumed they\'d be disco\'d so I tried to order a generic one that looked close... it was not close.
    \n
    \nThanks for the heads up on that bushing I was actually wondering about that myself. I\'ll look for some sort of washer that fit those specs as a spacer.
    \n
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    \nHere\'s the washer and here is how I assume it\'s supposed to be installed
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    \nDefinitely not flush. Here is the other side
    \n
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    \nMuch more contact area between the bushing and bracket on the front subframe. It would probably work without that "washer" but it would wear quicker.
    \n
    \nAlso eyeballed some ES end link grommets for the rear.... too big
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    \nthe outer diameter isn\'t an issue so I made up a jig and I\'m going to cut them down to size with a miter saw to make sure they\'re flat
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    \nI\'ll also have to chamfer the nipple so it fits better in the RCA.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305761] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by ray85p\r\n View Post\r\n
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    New ball joint boots and the wires are still available new from Toyota. And the deal on the grease fittings IIRC, is that Toyota recommended installing them to grease the ball joints and then reinstalling the plug. That would certainly prevent them being damaged relatively easily from road debris or driving over a curb or something similar and bottoming out.
    \nOn the ES front LCA bushings, there\'s a design flaw. Compared to the OEM bushings that also hold the arm in position front to back, installing the ES bushings into the OEM shell and then installing their "thrust washer" on the rear side doesn\'t totally take up all the space between the arm and its mounting flange, which allow the arm to move front to back some. NOT GOOD. I sent many pics and measurements to ES and their product manager stated that they\'d been selling them for years and no one had reported any problems? He finally offered to send me a second set of thrust washers to try. Unfortunately, 2 together was a bit too thick and they almost instantly worked as out of position as possible away from each other. I finally decided that the proper solution was to have 5mm thick aluminum "spacers" made with the ID to fit over the rear of the OEM shell and OD a little larger than their provided thrust washer. Problem totally solved. At the time, it wasn\'t much more expensive to have 6 sets of them made than 1 or 2, and I knew that others would need them as well. They\'re long since gone but easily remade. Everyone that installed them said they were the perfect fix for the flawed design.
    \nWhy did I go to all the trouble of trying to deal directly with ES? Because it was the right thing to do to solve the problem. Unfortunately it was like arguing with rocks and negotiating with terrorists. The only real reason I bothered at all is because their bushing are the only ones that aren\'t so rock hard that they could easily be mistaken for solid metal ones. They\'re a nice upgrade from even new OEM rubber without a huge ride and noise penalty.
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    Hey Ray do you remember the exact spacer dimension you had made?
    \n
    \nI gotta put together a machine shop list here in a few.
    \nSo those spacers 5mm tall x ?ID x ?OD seems like ideally you would have the spacers stepped to fit the step in the thrust washer.
    \n
    \nMy measurements for the spacer would be about 14 mm tall, inside diameter at 30, outside diameter starts at 40 and then after 9.5mm shrinks to 35.
    \n
    \nAnd some sleeves for the rear suspension.
    \nRear suspension is a clusterf. Looks like I need sleeves for the toe brackets, my measurements are 24mm OD 14mm ID x 70mm long but I need to double check other\'s findings, that will fit the bigger energy bushings, which are the correct toe bracket length ~70mm (70.7 on one side 69.33 on the other one side has some wiggle room the other kinda doesn\'t fit right now).
    \n
    \nFor the outer brackets, the stock fixed ones are about 65 mm which matches up with about 65mm for the weld in adjustable bracket. Cutting the flanges off the stock TOE sleeve results in a sleeve which matches the shorter 65 mm Energy bushing in both length, and Diameter ~19mm and of course matches the diameter of the stock eccentric bolt, as I will be using the parts car Toe bolt as a camber bolt.
    \n
    \nHere\'s a video of the play in the rack ends, not sure if it warrants replacement of the joints or not.
    \n
    \nhttps://youtu.be/kgpfhnjGuIA
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    \nHere\'s some pictures of the inner parts of the rack
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305567] = '\r\n
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    \r\n That\'s where the thrust washer indeed should be installed. If it was the correct thickness, it would be flush with the end of the bushing and sleeve on the back side to keep the arm from being able to move front to back. The spacer you\'ll need will fit between the outside of the thrust washer and the rear mounting tab. Before I had the spacers made, I kept trying different combinations of big ass washers to prove the concept. I finally found a combination that together were perfect, greased everything big time and tried it out for a couple of weeks.
    \nThere\'s an angled, sloped rubber railroad crossing in the middle of a curve where a couple of roads cross over, one above on a bridge and the other below. Hitting that nearly always had been a complete guessing game as to exactly which direction the car would dart. The first couple of times, it surprised the f(iretr)uck out of me. Fortunately, I still have razor quick reaction time. Otherwise, I\'d surely have gone off the road for sure a couple of times. Then I\'d expect something to happen and be ready for it. Installing the spacers on the front LCA bushings vastly changed things. It would nearly always dart there, but it was pretty much the same every time. Just like on road race cars where a bit of toe out really helps when initiating turn in for corners, but can sometimes make hard braking a little well... butt puckering. So I dialed in a bit more toe in. Then after a while, a little more. And other than the cars tendency to follow the stupid grooves worn in all the roads here because they allow studded tires from November to April, just so the idiot drivers here can get to work the 2 or 3 days we might get snow every year. Then they have to grind down and completely repave everything every few years. It would be a zillion times better and at least that many times cheaper to simply pay those fum ducks to stay home those 2 - 3 days.
    \nI think the reason ES thinks that these are OK is because nobody seems to figure out what to do with a thrust washer that doesn\'t seem to fit anywhere and nearly always just leaves them out. The perceived "improvement" in handling is very likely just because it\'s different than with the worn out OEM rubber bushings and these are supposed to be better, so what\'s happening now simply has to be better, right? I\'ve seen these installed on a few other cars and not one of them had the thrust washers and the needed spacers to keep the arm properly in place. I took a couple of them apart and there was noticeable wear both on the inside and outside of the bushings from the arm moving back and forth, actually front to back that was definitely not symmetrical. It was worn in an odd sort of semi spiral way more on the outside but some inside as well.
    \nSo have those spacers machined and the few $\'s it cost you will be way, way more than worth it.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305829] = '\r\n
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    \r\n SupraFiend\r\n \r\n
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    \r\n I just did the inner ends on my 86 last summer, first set I ever had to do. Was super easy... after I made a custom wrench to hold them. But some huge imperial thing that was just a touch smaller, opened it up and ground it down. Total PITA to do without it.
    \n
    \nDang, I wish I could remember what I did for my front LCA bushings. I of course ran into the exact same problem, but I know I solved it without having anything machined and I don\'t have any slop. I may have just cut them down to match the outside bushing ring heights installed (with the ring installed), and then added some washers to make up for what I cut down, I don\'t think I crushed the arm further. I need to look at my pics, I never covered any of that work in my build thread.
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    \nLike I said for the rear control arm bushings, you could just use the SuperPros, pretty sure they come with the new sleeves.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305849] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend\r\n View Post\r\n
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    I just did the inner ends on my 86 last summer, first set I ever had to do. Was super easy... after I made a custom wrench to hold them. But some huge imperial thing that was just a touch smaller, opened it up and ground it down. Total PITA to do without it.
    \n
    \nDang, I wish I could remember what I did for my front LCA bushings. I of course ran into the exact same problem, but I know I solved it without having anything machined and I don\'t have any slop. I may have just cut them down to match the outside bushing ring heights installed (with the ring installed), and then added some washers to make up for what I cut down, I don\'t think I crushed the arm further. I need to look at my pics, I never covered any of that work in my build thread.
    \n
    \nLike I said for the rear control arm bushings, you could just use the SuperPros, pretty sure they come with the new sleeves.
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    I guess I should just source some new inner ends and replace them while everything is apart and it\'s there. bleh
    \n
    \nyeah I wish I could go back in time and buy the superpros vs these energy ones. But I already have enough from the energy suspension ones, and accidentally bought two of them to boot.
    \n
    \nI ran to the local machine shop today, they\'re gonna cut the flanges off the stock toe sleeves to make them the new camber sleeves and should call me back with a quote on a pair of sleeves and a pair of spacers. I don\'t think it will be prohibitively expensive.
    \n
    \nGot a pneumatic grease gun set up today and shot the ball bearings under the strut on the LCA. So much old grease to purge, and the ball still moves super stiffly, but there\'s no play in it so... I\'ll see how it feels after I get the new boot on it and fill er up.
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    \nAlso boxed up my strut casings to ship all the way to Californy way for the T3 coilover conversion.
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    \nHere were the front strut cores... I assume they\'re stock, but one is from Colombia and one from Venezuela ?
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  • \r\n'; pd[1305903] = '\r\n
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    \r\n I assume the shop is cutting the toe brackets off a spare subframe? You will still need toe adjustment separate to camber adjustment.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306029] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Went to get the parts from the machine shop... They had some uh, incorrect measurements. I like the guy, and he has a couple mazda 323 GTXs which are sweet, so I\'d like to give him my future business but that is a little annoying.
    \n
    \nAlso decided on the Nissan z32 from calipers for brakes. Can\'t decide between MPV rotors or Z32 rotors, I assume the z32 will give more options from nice brands so most likely going with those.
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    \nFor the longer wheel studs, I found another thread that says you can get longer ones from Dorman # 98521 or 610414 same part different #s. Will those be long enough or is another option necessary?\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306059] = '\r\n
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    \r\n The spacers I had made were to use with the ES provided thrust washers. So 5mm thickness was perfect. The same could be done with a couple of different washers, which is how I initially came up with the required thickness. The ID was to just fit over the OD of the rear side of the original OEM bushing shell and I made their OD just slightly larger than the thrust washer OD and so it would fit in the mounting flange.
    \nI went with the MPV rotors and Q45 calipers because they matched, that is the thickness of the rotor matched what the calipers were designed for. I would recommend the same with the Z32 stuff. IIRC, the calipers came in 3 different versions for 3 different thickness rotors which I believe are 26mm, 28mm and 30mm, but you should verify exactly what you have and match accordingly to avoid any potential issues.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306119] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Got spacers made for the F control arms, fit pretty well. However.... the rear sleeves don\'t fit quite as well. There is some play between the bolt and the metal sleeve. Granted the stock sleeve also has play in it, but not to this extent.
    \n
    \nI guess my question would be, since the sleeve is clamped in the bracket and held pretty firmly, and the rotation of parts is a movement on the steel/poly/steel interface; how important is it really if the sleeve is super snug on the bolt. It\'s snug, but not super snug.
    \nbolt* OD ~14mm sleeve ID ~15mm\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306151] = '\r\n
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    \r\n More updates;
    \nGot a welder set up, right now it\'s just running flux core. When I do body work I\'ll switch to MIG with thinner wire.
    \nI did a couple practice welds and then decided to jump in over my head and stitch weld the shock tower cause why not. The welds don\'t look great, as it\'s like my second time welding, but as long as I don\'t cut a hole the shock tower is already kind of welded together as is to it seemed like some low risk practice. It\'s uh, not pretty but whatever. I can only get better.
    \n
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    \nAlso on my way over to the over tower I decided to take off the front crash bar finally. Unfortunately this is what two of the bolts look like, the more rearward of them.
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    \nNot a great sign. Gotta find a way to peek on in there.
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    \nOrdered some Z32 calipers and they came a bit too... well loved for my taste, so I\'m swapping for a pair he has in better shape. It\'s my own fault for not paying attention to the pictures well enough on FleaBay
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    \nI have perfect aim when I\'m shooting myself in the foot that\'s for sure.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306153] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Those bolts always seem to get rusty, just so easy for moisture to get trapped in there.
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    \nGrind those welds down and get some more practice, can only get better the more you try right?\r\n
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    Hidden Content 86 parts car maybe some day race car? 3x cars, 36x brake caliper pistons.
    \r\n"You need to update your signature Gamble" - Dave
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306155] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by gamble\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Those bolts always seem to get rusty, just so easy for moisture to get trapped in there.
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    \nGrind those welds down and get some more practice, can only get better the more you try right?
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    I\'m sticking a borescope there as well as a couple other spots and seeing what uh I can see with that. In the least I need new bolts which I\'ll probably paint before sticking them down there or something. I mean you can see they went in well galvanized and came out toast.
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    \nSad thing is that picture is actually after grinding down the tower stitches and rewelding parts of it.
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    \nI\'ll do the other side and try and make it a little better than this side and then hit both of the seams down to the rail.
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    \nAfter that it\'s camber bracket, goof around with reinforcement near the two overlapping frame rails even though I\'ve had multiple people tell me it wont help, stitch the part that runs across the floor between the two rear shock towers, swap and start trying body stuff \r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306161] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Well here are some pictures from inside.
    \nThe passenger side is all good, but the driver side I\'ll have to cut a couple holes and try and clean up... or take apart.
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    \nD side
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    \nBonus shot, the inside fender box where my stitch welds have been... I will need to hole into there and brush it up and spray it.
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    \nOn the bright side, I checked inside the seam along the C pillar and it seems solid so I\'ll just need to seal it/wax it or whatever and no extra work.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306163] = '\r\n
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    \r\n You\'ll never get a pretty weld using Flux core. I\'m not a perfect welder, but it looks like your travel time and heat need work.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306223] = '\r\n
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    \r\n That driver side frame rail is actually not bad as far as that spot is concerned. Its a huge amount of work to get in there and fix things nicely. I wouldn\'t go in just for whats there. But how do the holes look on top of the frame rail just behind the sheet metal the headlight buckets bolt too? Thats the point where if battery acid gets in, the insides of this rail get compromised. What you are seeing is the result of water being trapped in the back bolt hole, so the rust is coming from inside the sleeve the bolt sits in, and its proceeded enough to overflow into the guts of the rail a bit.
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    \nSee this post for more info on dealing with this corner...
    \nhttps://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...65#post1002065\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306249] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend\r\n View Post\r\n
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    That driver side frame rail is actually not bad as far as that spot is concerned. Its a huge amount of work to get in there and fix things nicely. I wouldn\'t go in just for whats there. But how do the holes look on top of the frame rail just behind the sheet metal the headlight buckets bolt too? Thats the point where if battery acid gets in, the insides of this rail get compromised. What you are seeing is the result of water being trapped in the back bolt hole, so the rust is coming from inside the sleeve the bolt sits in, and its proceeded enough to overflow into the guts of the rail a bit.
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    \nSee this post for more info on dealing with this corner...
    \nhttps://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...65#post1002065
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    I\'ll have to pull a couple rubber plugs and check in there. I\'m operating on the assumption that acid did leak at one point, as the subframe parts pretty much all have the OG coating on them except the Driver side front. However there isn\'t really any sign of compromise on the surface like you would expect spilled acid to create.
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    \nI think I might just half ass that bolt sleeve and drill a hole copying one of your peekaboo ones from that repair, sneak a brush in and just cover it in some por15 and prayers. Can\'t hurt I don\'t think.
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    \nProbably best for the far left plug? Would that give me a look?
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    \nAlso a quick Q fiend, for the inside boxed fenders, would there be any structural compromise to cutting a hole on it by the shock tower? I\'ll get a pic of my proposed hole site for clean up tomorrow as well as some of my ugly ugly welding currently going on. It\'s possible to get pretty welds with flux core as I do it about 1/20 tries. I also am using a little Miller sidekick where the power options are 1 - 2 - 3 - 4. Not ideal conditions.
    \n
    \nLast thing, I think it got lost in my deluge of posts, anyone have an opinion on the toe sleeve being a bit bigger than the bolt and how securely the sleeve is clamped vs it rotating around the bolt itself?
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    \nThanks everyone for chiming in on things, you all are the best. This would be going way worse right now without this forum.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306385] = '\r\n
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    \r\n SupraFiend\r\n \r\n
    \r\n SupraFiend is offline\r\n\r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
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    Location
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    \r\n That is the downside of stitch welding alright, you can\'t clean up the welds everywhere due to boxed metal with no inside access. Its hard to judge on the strength question without a pic or hole size you are thinking. In cases where I am concerned I am compromising the integrity by adding a hole, I have a DIY dimple die I kinda hacked together out of old mk2 oil strut seals, that I use to dimple die the hole, which generally adds more strength then when it was just flat metal.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306387] = '\r\n
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    \r\n SupraFiend\r\n \r\n
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    Location
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    \r\n Oh the bolt question. Uhm, slop is bad. As I recall actually, Raptor sold a specially made insert to be used with the rear control arm bushings intended to be used with toe bolts for the camber mod. You could try PMing him, I\'m not sure if he still has any or not.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306399] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Texasissouth\r\n \r\n
    \r\n Texasissouth is offline\r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n CelicaSupra.com Member\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n That top fender is the only spot I can\'t get to easy out of the stitch welding I\'m doing. I\'ve got some new pictures to upload including my tentative hole idea. I thought he was out but I might ask anyway. I\'m a little disappointed with the local machine shop, a millimeter of slop probably isn\'t ideal.
    \n
    \nGonna take a break for a bit, my normal driver, Mazdaspeed3 threw a CEL today, vague code for random misfires so I\'m going to do a couple things I\'ve been putting off, I try and replace spark plugs once a year (boost + direct injection is rough on plugs) and those are due, I have a pre-compressor leak that\'s been getting worse lately so I gotta re-do all the intake piping. I\'m also gonna run a quick compression check just because I\'m curious.
    \nIdeal should be 180 but it\'s got 91k miles so I doubt it will be that high, acceptable variance is 29 psi with a 130 psi minimum.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306583] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Texasissouth\r\n \r\n
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    \r\n \r\n CelicaSupra.com Member\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n Got the daily almost all the way down and back together today since it finally stopped raining.
    \nHilariously this set of pliers has been between my valve cover and intercooler for over a year.
    \n
    \n
    \nOld plugs look like everything is burning good, they look better since I cleaned my intake valves last year or the year before - direct injection = filthy intake valves. One is still a little rich, but one was really rich before
    \n
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    \nScoped out my pistons cause I was curious, they all pretty much looked like this
    \n
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    \nCompression test I don\'t think was accurate as it registered 195 on all cylinders, but even if the gauge isn\'t zero\'d it means they\'re all very close to each other, which is excellent.
    \n
    \nPic of the crowded mazda DISI engine bay
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    \nJust waiting for the air filter to dry. Hopefully redoing all the hose clamps fixed my vacuum leak? My MAF was also incredibly dirty, so cleaning it may help my LTFT (they were like 16%)\r\n
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    \r\n \r\n Last edited by Texasissouth; 12-17-2018 at 10:36 PM.\r\n \r\n \r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1306977] = '\r\n
  • \r\n\r\n\r\n
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    \r\n Texasissouth\r\n \r\n
    \r\n Texasissouth is offline\r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n CelicaSupra.com Member\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Location
    Virginia is for cops
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    \r\n Been back at stitch welding and fixing holes created by the P/O.
    \nI\'m gonna wait and then do a longish update once I\'m "done" with the front end.
    \nFor now... I finally have an honest to god workbench, so I\'m not cramped up with my dad over on his.
    \n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1307047] = '\r\n
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    \r\n SupraFiend\r\n \r\n
    \r\n SupraFiend is offline\r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n CelicaSupra.com Member\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n SupraFiend\'s Avatar\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
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    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Location
    Vancouver, BC
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    Posts
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    \r\n Nice. You guys need to pour a pad into that shop!\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
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  • \r\n'; // next/previous post info pn[1197801] = "1315457,1197857"; pn[0] = ",1197801"; pn[1197857] = "1197801,1197929"; pn[1197929] = "1197857,1197969"; pn[1197969] = "1197929,1197985"; pn[1197985] = "1197969,1198001"; pn[1198001] = "1197985,1198009"; pn[1198009] = "1198001,1200849"; pn[1200849] = "1198009,1206145"; pn[1206145] = "1200849,1206233"; pn[1206233] = "1206145,1263873"; pn[1263873] = "1206233,1264161"; pn[1264161] = "1263873,1206241"; pn[1206241] = "1264161,1243281"; pn[1243281] = "1206241,1243409"; pn[1243409] = "1243281,1243417"; pn[1243417] = "1243409,1243465"; pn[1243465] = "1243417,1243481"; pn[1243481] = "1243465,1243753"; pn[1243753] = "1243481,1243833"; pn[1243833] = "1243753,1243905"; pn[1243905] = "1243833,1244161"; pn[1244161] = "1243905,1244241"; pn[1244241] = "1244161,1244505"; pn[1244505] = "1244241,1244801"; pn[1244801] = "1244505,1263026"; pn[1263026] = "1244801,1263074"; pn[1263074] = "1263026,1263114"; pn[1263114] = "1263074,1263274"; pn[1263274] = "1263114,1263330"; pn[1263330] = "1263274,1263378"; pn[1263378] = "1263330,1263394"; pn[1263394] = "1263378,1264609"; pn[1264609] = "1263394,1264657"; pn[1264657] = "1264609,1264865"; pn[1264865] = "1264657,1264913"; pn[1264913] = "1264865,1267201"; pn[1267201] = "1264913,1271073"; pn[1271073] = "1267201,1271177"; pn[1271177] = "1271073,1271321"; pn[1271321] = "1271177,1271369"; pn[1271369] = "1271321,1271385"; pn[1271385] = "1271369,1271761"; pn[1271761] = "1271385,1272001"; pn[1272001] = "1271761,1274513"; pn[1274513] = "1272001,1274545"; pn[1274545] = "1274513,1274745"; pn[1274745] = "1274545,1274809"; pn[1274809] = "1274745,1275321"; pn[1275321] = "1274809,1275514"; pn[1275514] = "1275321,1278025"; pn[1278025] = "1275514,1279273"; pn[1279273] = "1278025,1279289"; pn[1279289] = "1279273,1279297"; pn[1279297] = "1279289,1279329"; pn[1279329] = "1279297,1281905"; pn[1281905] = "1279329,1281945"; pn[1281945] = "1281905,1286458"; pn[1286458] = "1281945,1286594"; pn[1286594] = "1286458,1286690"; pn[1286690] = "1286594,1288698"; pn[1288698] = "1286690,1287322"; pn[1287322] = "1288698,1287386"; pn[1287386] = "1287322,1288234"; pn[1288234] = "1287386,1288442"; pn[1288442] = "1288234,1288570"; pn[1288570] = "1288442,1289050"; pn[1289050] = "1288570,1288730"; pn[1288730] = "1289050,1288858"; pn[1288858] = "1288730,1289458"; pn[1289458] = "1288858,1289922"; pn[1289922] = "1289458,1289930"; pn[1289930] = "1289922,1290026"; pn[1290026] = "1289930,1290314"; pn[1290314] = "1290026,1293866"; pn[1293866] = "1290314,1294666"; pn[1294666] = "1293866,1294986"; pn[1294986] = "1294666,1294994"; pn[1294994] = "1294986,1295146"; pn[1295146] = "1294994,1294866"; pn[1294866] = "1295146,1295002"; pn[1295002] = "1294866,1295810"; pn[1295810] = "1295002,1297274"; pn[1297274] = "1295810,1298890"; pn[1298890] = "1297274,1299250"; pn[1299250] = "1298890,1299330"; pn[1299330] = "1299250,1300053"; pn[1300053] = "1299330,1301769"; pn[1301769] = "1300053,1301797"; pn[1301797] = "1301769,1301803"; pn[1301803] = "1301797,1299642"; pn[1299642] = "1301803,1301767"; pn[1301767] = "1299642,1301771"; pn[1301771] = "1301767,1302025"; pn[1302025] = "1301771,1302069"; pn[1302069] = "1302025,1302483"; pn[1302483] = "1302069,1302499"; pn[1302499] = "1302483,1302505"; pn[1302505] = "1302499,1302739"; pn[1302739] = "1302505,1302835"; pn[1302835] = "1302739,1302875"; pn[1302875] = "1302835,1302877"; pn[1302877] = "1302875,1302743"; pn[1302743] = "1302877,1302823"; pn[1302823] = "1302743,1303075"; pn[1303075] = "1302823,1303097"; pn[1303097] = "1303075,1303279"; pn[1303279] = "1303097,1304739"; pn[1304739] = "1303279,1304771"; pn[1304771] = "1304739,1304839"; pn[1304839] = "1304771,1304895"; pn[1304895] = "1304839,1304897"; pn[1304897] = "1304895,1304903"; pn[1304903] = "1304897,1304983"; pn[1304983] = "1304903,1304987"; pn[1304987] = "1304983,1304989"; pn[1304989] = "1304987,1304991"; pn[1304991] = "1304989,1304993"; pn[1304993] = "1304991,1304995"; pn[1304995] = "1304993,1304997"; pn[1304997] = "1304995,1304999"; pn[1304999] = "1304997,1305117"; pn[1305117] = "1304999,1305173"; pn[1305173] = "1305117,1305215"; pn[1305215] = "1305173,1305475"; pn[1305475] = "1305215,1305547"; pn[1305547] = "1305475,1305557"; pn[1305557] = "1305547,1305565"; pn[1305565] = "1305557,1305761"; pn[1305761] = "1305565,1305567"; pn[1305567] = "1305761,1305829"; pn[1305829] = "1305567,1305849"; pn[1305849] = "1305829,1305903"; pn[1305903] = "1305849,1305931"; pn[1305931] = "1305903,1306029"; pn[1306029] = "1305931,1306059"; pn[1306059] = "1306029,1306119"; pn[1306119] = "1306059,1306151"; pn[1306151] = "1306119,1306153"; pn[1306153] = "1306151,1306155"; pn[1306155] = "1306153,1306161"; pn[1306161] = "1306155,1306163"; pn[1306163] = "1306161,1306223"; pn[1306223] = "1306163,1306249"; pn[1306249] = "1306223,1306385"; pn[1306385] = "1306249,1306387"; pn[1306387] = "1306385,1306399"; pn[1306399] = "1306387,1306583"; pn[1306583] = "1306399,1306977"; pn[1306977] = "1306583,1307047"; pn[1307047] = "1306977,1307613"; pn[1307613] = "1307047,1307681"; pn[1307681] = "1307613,1307937"; pn[1307937] = "1307681,1307941"; pn[1307941] = "1307937,1307945"; pn[1307945] = "1307941,1307949"; pn[1307949] = "1307945,1307959"; pn[1307959] = "1307949,1307963"; pn[1307963] = "1307959,1307965"; pn[1307965] = "1307963,1307977"; pn[1307977] = "1307965,1308071"; pn[1308071] = "1307977,1308081"; pn[1308081] = "1308071,1308187"; pn[1308187] = "1308081,1308189"; pn[1308189] = "1308187,1308193"; pn[1308193] = "1308189,1308223"; pn[1308223] = "1308193,1308279"; pn[1308279] = "1308223,1308281"; pn[1308281] = "1308279,1308285"; pn[1308285] = "1308281,1308311"; pn[1308311] = "1308285,1308333"; pn[1308333] = "1308311,1308341"; pn[1308341] = "1308333,1308347"; pn[1308347] = "1308341,1308357"; pn[1308357] = "1308347,1308349"; pn[1308349] = "1308357,1308363"; pn[1308363] = "1308349,1308613"; pn[1308613] = "1308363,1308761"; pn[1308761] = "1308613,1308777"; pn[1308777] = "1308761,1308865"; pn[1308865] = "1308777,1309295"; pn[1309295] = "1308865,1309581"; pn[1309581] = "1309295,1309603"; pn[1309603] = "1309581,1309681"; pn[1309681] = "1309603,1309937"; pn[1309937] = "1309681,1310019"; pn[1310019] = "1309937,1310077"; pn[1310077] = "1310019,1310177"; pn[1310177] = "1310077,1310199"; pn[1310199] = "1310177,1310287"; pn[1310287] = "1310199,1310577"; pn[1310577] = "1310287,1310587"; pn[1310587] = "1310577,1310609"; pn[1310609] = "1310587,1311015"; pn[1311015] = "1310609,1311097"; pn[1311097] = "1311015,1311117"; pn[1311117] = "1311097,1311119"; pn[1311119] = "1311117,1311133"; pn[1311133] = "1311119,1311485"; pn[1311485] = "1311133,1311543"; pn[1311543] = "1311485,1311635"; pn[1311635] = "1311543,1311707"; pn[1311707] = "1311635,1311735"; pn[1311735] = "1311707,1312473"; pn[1312473] = "1311735,1312475"; pn[1312475] = "1312473,1312503"; pn[1312503] = "1312475,1312543"; pn[1312543] = "1312503,1312523"; pn[1312523] = "1312543,1312571"; pn[1312571] = "1312523,1312611"; pn[1312611] = "1312571,1312741"; pn[1312741] = "1312611,1312755"; pn[1312755] = "1312741,1312879"; pn[1312879] = "1312755,1312913"; pn[1312913] = "1312879,1312915"; pn[1312915] = "1312913,1313005"; pn[1313005] = "1312915,1313015"; pn[1313015] = "1313005,1313053"; pn[1313053] = "1313015,1313257"; pn[1313257] = "1313053,1313469"; pn[1313469] = "1313257,1313481"; pn[1313481] = "1313469,1313513"; pn[1313513] = "1313481,1313559"; pn[1313559] = "1313513,1313555"; pn[1313555] = "1313559,1313561"; pn[1313561] = "1313555,1313781"; pn[1313781] = "1313561,1314285"; pn[1314285] = "1313781,1314537"; pn[1314537] = "1314285,1314595"; pn[1314595] = "1314537,1314871"; pn[1314871] = "1314595,1314883"; pn[1314883] = "1314871,1314957"; pn[1314957] = "1314883,1314961"; pn[1314961] = "1314957,1315173"; pn[1315173] = "1314961,1315231"; pn[1315231] = "1315173,1315457"; pn[1315457] = "1315231,1197801"; // cached usernames pu[0] = guestphrase; pu[34386] = "Texasissouth"; pu[2572] = "supkar"; pu[20358] = "gsagunner"; pu[2729] = "ddd228"; pu[34202] = "mutantcolors"; pu[35969] = "grav"; pu[1376] = "gamble"; pu[19654] = "battleaxe"; pu[57] = "SupraFiend"; pu[17155] = "Saul68"; pu[10416] = "killbill oddy"; pu[4799] = "racerxj220"; pu[32802] = "TcTravis"; pu[34617] = "CS1984"; pu[8454] = "Beernuts"; pu[16042] = "ray85p"; pu[10] = "SilverMk2"; pu[14584] = "MrBubbles00482"; // -->

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    1. #11
      CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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      May 2005
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      5,190
      GOOD JOB!!!!!
      Just grease the tapered part of the tie rod end and gently tap it into place.
      Be sure that the threads and not damaged,first.A little oil will help to lube the threads,first.
      You may need to use a thread file to the threads.
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Repa...-/372349145095
      Unless you have some metric DIES.
      Use an impact gun to get 'er down,carefully. Even an electric one will work fine.
      I have a 12 V. one that does OK.
      Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
      '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

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