Resto mod from rolling shell - Page 24

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  1. #231
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    That could certainly work, but since you aren't exactly opposed to doing welding on the car itself, you might want to consider welding an ear to the shock tower itself with a hole in it, then bolting your bar to that ear. The shock itself is meant to have some isolation from the body the way it mounts with the rubber bushings, and its ok if it moves a little. But having the shock tower itself move isn't great.
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  3. #232
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    That would certainly be easier, and save me some hardware cost, so I like the idea already.

    What implications would that have on rust issues in between the layers of metal composing the shock tower? I was already going to go over the majority of the car with fresh seam sealer, so if that is all is required, then that would be great.

    You recommend Pro Form Seam Sealer right? Which kind? There seems to be epoxy, rubber and urethane options.
    Also what is a good acid etch Primer you'd recommend?

  4. #233
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    I see a bunch of spot welds on the shock tower portion the shock bolts too. Can't remember off hand what the piece of steel those attach looks like on the other side, but the ideal would be to weld above those spot welds where there is only 1 layer of steel so you can clean up the welds on both sides. No implications then, but yeah, welding where the spot welds are means you couldn't clean up the other side nicely.

    I recommend this stuff for seam sealer. White for interior, black for the underside of the car. Rocker guard will actually shrink back a little when you spray overtop so it will look funny if you use the white on the underside.


    I havn't found an Acid Etch I really hated yet. They all seems to work fairly well as advertised, unlike Weld Thru primers. Speaking of, Lordco (our local parts chain) just dropped Plastikote for Duplicolor so I am in the midst of trying out a new weld thru. A copper one, hope it works.
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  6. #234
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    I'll wire everything off and take a looksie when I get a chance. Seems like plenty of space to work with between the top and those spot welds.

    I've been using the plastikote everywhere on my car as well as on my store of sheet metal. It seems to work pretty well for short term but if you look at it funny it scrapes off. I'm on my last can and I think I had to order it through a local supplier. Ironically the metal tops of the cans came rusted.

    Thanks for the Pro Form rec. Rubber instead of urethane based? Aren't a lot of the newer urethane ones supposed to not dry up/shrink over time? Or have they solved that problem on the rubber based ones now as well?

  7. #235
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Here's what I'm working with on the tower.
    There's a small segment of tower between the top reinforcement and the multi layer mess below the tower. Not a lot of flexibility there for tabs.


    There is an opportunity here to stitch weld the top reinforcement plate to the tower, however it's pretty well spot welded from the factory and I'm not sure the risk/reward is worth it. Obviously I'm going to end up sealing all of this later anyway.





  8. #236
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Right, theres another piece inside the tower, hence those spot welds. Yup, weld where its just 1 layer, the sheet steel on that tower is thick and its a really rigid shape.

    Yes about the Urethane! I'll have to check my supply and keep that in mind, for bigger gaps and stuff where the steel could flex, use the Urethane version instead...

    http://ca.proformproducts.com/en/pro...aler-adhesive/
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  9. #237
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Thinking about it more, I'm going to pass on tying in the shock tower for now. Between using my eyeballs and handtools for all my fabrication, and the distortion of welding, I already am having things slightly not line up. I had to cut the reinforcement plate on the right side to bend the plate back to flat and weld in a sliver to fill in the space, the left side I didn't have to do that, but I do have to pull a little to get everything lined up.
    So here is where it sits, I'm going to clean up the welds and paint everything and move on to the next points - filling in the antenna hole, possibly front shock tower reinforcement, fill in the hole in the front metal where someone cut for the FMIC.
    Then once I'm as prepared as I can be, gonna start on that quarter panel and rocker, which I'm incredibly nervous for.






  10. #238
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    Took a lil bit of a hiatus, was working on a non-car project of mine, but I'm back.
    I painted the rear brace, here's how it looks sans any hardware. It's a tight fit and I doubt I can tie in the wheel well or tower without being out of dimensions elsewhere.





    Next up is something similar for the front shock towers, but with joints on both sides of the bar so I can be a little less precise and not have it bite me in the ass. This is not the final size piece.

    The plan is going to be to have two sets of plates to slide the heim into, then bolt in place. For the shock tower I think it will be fairly straightforward, on one of fiends cars he mentioned if you peel away the first thin sheet, there is a thicker layer below from the shock tower top. (See here if photobucket works: https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...w-Build/page16)
    I remember fiend talking about removing that top corner thing and replacing it with something thicker and stronger. However I'm not sure how to go about doing that.. I was thinking remove the top brace, and then since I'm not sure I can easily replicate that curve on the bottom, replace it with a two part solution. One piece on the top and then a plate reinforcement for the corner, then welding them together as well as along the outside edges. Then welding the two plates for the brace to that support.


    I know there is a rule of thumb for how wide your support plates should be when you're welding to thinner sheet, at least for roll cage attach points. But I can't seem to find the actual specs for that. Also would need a lot of prep and sealing to prevent rust with the overlap.

  11. #239
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Sounds like NHRA specs is 6x6 and 1/8th for plates tying in roll cages. Welding thick to thin is a pain though.

  12. #240
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Texas, here's the update where I made a replacement piece for the corner where you want to attach. It wasn't too bad to weld on, and the access to the underside areas is pretty good there.

    https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...l=1#post805210
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