Resto mod from rolling shell - Page 20

Page 20 of 24 FirstFirst ... 101819202122 ... LastLast
Results 191 to 200 of 236
  1. #191
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    10,084
    yeah I just welded on the outside of the last one I did because of that lol
    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    New SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!

  2. Remove Advertisements
    CelicaSupra.com
    Advertisements

  3. #192
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Virginia is for cops
    Posts
    202
    Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend View Post
    yeah I just welded on the outside of the last one I did because of that lol
    Smart.
    Ground down enough that the eccentric bolts work without the arms - now to test with the arms in before I get the subframe dipped and ecoated.






    aaaaand the right one doesnt' fit really. I'm pretty sure the stock inner mount got hit by something at some point because it's 4-5mm narrower than the other inner mount, and one of the ears that holds the eccentric part was flat. So I fetched my bolt stretcher to finagle me some more room. also it sliced a small part of the poly bushing zzzzz





    In other news I FINALLY got my T3 coilovers that I ordered on Black Friday. Apparently there was a "mix up" and the spindles I sent in go used for someone else, so they had to use someone else's to create mine. Fit and finish ended up ok as far as I can see.
    Throw on the T3 needle bearing top hat and camber plate and it's looking good. 450lb hyperco springs on KYB AGX. They came with a lot of washers on the strut but I don't think they're necessary?
    Also do the AGX's have an internal bump stop or should I be looking for a solution for that, I can't find any good answers on that one.



    Last edited by Texasissouth; 04-19-2019 at 12:24 PM.

  4. #193
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    10,084
    Use your factory bumpstops, or at least the lower section of one trimmed down.
    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    New SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!

  5. Remove Advertisements
    CelicaSupra.com
    Advertisements

  6. #194
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Virginia is for cops
    Posts
    202
    Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend View Post
    Use your factory bumpstops, or at least the lower section of one trimmed down.
    I had to look at the book to figure out what the factory bumpstop was. I didn't realize that cup thing was it, I checked my bucket of stock front strut stuff. I have the stock perch, hat, brake shield. But I can't find the factory bellows or what I did with the bump stop. I am not a very organized person, in fact if I were to take pictures of how I have all my parts right now everyone would probably be appalled. I'll see if it turns up while I start trying sheet metal work.

    After massaging the front perch and using some synthetic grease laying around, I got the right A arm in. Looking good! Seems to have all the adjustment possible and still rotates!


  7. #195
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Virginia is for cops
    Posts
    202
    Couple pics from this weekend.





  8. #196
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Arlington, WA
    Posts
    1,403
    Fitting everything together on the rear subframe first is a good idea. Instead of using the alignment template that came with the camber brackets, I ground off the original outer brackets, then reattached the trailing arms with all new bushings and the camber brackets attached and tacked them in place.
    However, what you'll find installing the subframe assembly in the car is that the outside camber bolts will either have to be inserted from the outside, making it impossible to remove the trailing arm without dropping the subframe or, you can pick up a set of thin jamb nuts and cut the bolts down to insert them from the inside, which will allow the trailing arm bolts to be removed without dropping the subframe as it originally was. The normal length toe bolts installed in the camber brackets simply won't allow the subframe up into position without some very significant hammering, etc anyway. There's a dimple on both sides that more or less centers the subframe and it's not very easy to modify due to its shape.
    Also, to adjust the camber with the car on an alignment rack, you'll need to modify a 20mm wrench by adding a 90 degree bend.
    If you don't find your factory front bump stops, LMK and I'll send you a set cheap. Our cars never came with bellows on the front struts like many cars do, although they are available aftermarket. I have a BNIB set of these too, but I really don't think they're necessary, especially with your coilovers.
    It's hard to imagine how your inner mount got damaged. Almost always, the trailing arm is the weak link and bends before anything else does. However, it must have been damaged in place or it would have been noticed if anything had been disassembled prior to this. Nice job getting everything together!

  9. #197
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Virginia is for cops
    Posts
    202
    Quote Originally Posted by ray85p View Post
    Fitting everything together on the rear subframe first is a good idea. Instead of using the alignment template that came with the camber brackets, I ground off the original outer brackets, then reattached the trailing arms with all new bushings and the camber brackets attached and tacked them in place.
    However, what you'll find installing the subframe assembly in the car is that the outside camber bolts will either have to be inserted from the outside, making it impossible to remove the trailing arm without dropping the subframe or, you can pick up a set of thin jamb nuts and cut the bolts down to insert them from the inside, which will allow the trailing arm bolts to be removed without dropping the subframe as it originally was. The normal length toe bolts installed in the camber brackets simply won't allow the subframe up into position without some very significant hammering, etc anyway. There's a dimple on both sides that more or less centers the subframe and it's not very easy to modify due to its shape.
    Also, to adjust the camber with the car on an alignment rack, you'll need to modify a 20mm wrench by adding a 90 degree bend.
    If you don't find your factory front bump stops, LMK and I'll send you a set cheap. Our cars never came with bellows on the front struts like many cars do, although they are available aftermarket. I have a BNIB set of these too, but I really don't think they're necessary, especially with your coilovers.
    It's hard to imagine how your inner mount got damaged. Almost always, the trailing arm is the weak link and bends before anything else does. However, it must have been damaged in place or it would have been noticed if anything had been disassembled prior to this. Nice job getting everything together!
    I did the same thing for locating where the camber brackets would go. And they seem to have full range of adjustment and swing so I think it was a success.

    I have held up the subframe inside the car and realized the issue with where the bolts go. I'll have to do some thinking when I get to that stage as you will need access to both sides of the bolt once it's on the car, one side to tighten/loosen and one side to actually set the camber.

    I think my front bump stops were too cracked and old and got tossed. i think something must have bumped that mount. My front mount on that side is also a little bent, which is weird. I gotta find an easy way to get it back into shape before I add the front suspension back. It's probably all tied to the same accident that bent up the quarter panel on that side. Drifted into a curb/pole or something of the sort.

  10. #198
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Arlington, WA
    Posts
    1,403
    Like I said about the camber bolts... First, pick up a pair of thin jam nuts with the proper thread. They're about 1/2 the thickness of normal nuts. There will be enough room for a lock washer and jam nut on each outside of the camber brackets. You'll have to shorten the bolts as much as possible so that there's just a couple of threads extending beyond the nut and lock washer once installed and tightened. This will fit fine without any other mods and you'll be able to loosen the nut with a modded 20mm wrench. I mentioned making a 90 degree bend in it to allow access while on an alignment rack. But now that I think about it..... I believe that I ground the head of the wrench down a little thinner for easier access as well. This allows easy (enough) access to both ends of the bolts for loosening/tightening on the outsides and adjustment on the insides.
    Before I modified the bolts, it was a PITA to actually adjust the camber. It was virtually impossible to get a wrench on the heads of the bolts on the outside due to virtually no clearance. It wasn't that hard to loosen the nuts on the insides as I could jam something in around the bolt heads enough to loosen the nuts. But then there's no easy way to adjust them. The first time, I used vice grips to adjust the bolts by clamping them to the flat on one side of the bolts and using a thin piece of wood over the bolt threads to protect them on the other side. Then retightened them. Once was enough to know that this wasn't going to work long term, which in my case really only amounted to one more fine adjustment at an alignment shop.
    So I modified the bolts as I described and made accessing the adjustments much easier as well as allowing the trailing arm to be removed if necessary without unbolting everything just to lower the subframe.
    Might as well do this before installing everything for the first time. Or you'll be dropping the whole assembly to do it later like I had to.
    Your bent inner rear bracket might have happened by running over a curb or something similar. Maybe even by sliding into a curb or pole as you suggested. But your same side front mount being bent is not as easy to explain. Was there any damage to the front subframe or LCA on that side? Who knows what might have happened? If it's bent enough to be visible, maybe you can bend it back to where it should be easily enough. Or maybe it would be worth it to discuss straightening it properly on a frame jig. Looking at that area in the pics above, I do see some minor damage on the top with the original suspension. But it's hard to tell if that might create a problem. The drivers side is hidden. In the later pic, it appears that the damage was repaired quite nicely. Both sides look terrific. However, we both know that looking at things in person always beats the crap out of pics. Maybe your best option would be to thoroughly inspect everything for anything out of the ordinary and repair or replace as necessary. If nothing appears obviously whacked, then I would suggest a (usually free) alignment check only. Prior to this, you should manually adjust things as close as you can to where you want them and most importantly, the same on both sides front and rear. The alignment check should be able to tell you if there's anything whacked side to side both front and rear as well as if there's any issues with the actual placement of either subframe.
    And if you need a set of front bump stops to mod for your coilovers, LMK and they're yours cheap. I have an extra set of jam nuts that could be thrown in the box as well!

  11. #199
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Virginia is for cops
    Posts
    202
    Oh I see what you mean now with the jamb nut. Just to replace the standard one with a thinner one to enable you to trim down the bolt so it fits. Makes sense.

    I was thinking like both front and rear tires hit sideways on a curb. But suspension arms themselves look pretty good. No damage I can spot.

    I've been meaning to take some string and compare my measurements to the stock to make sure everything is straight. Drivers side is fine, passenger side front QP might have been replaced, the sticker and paint on the inside is different. They're old cars anyway, so they're always gonna how some love on them. I'll take a pic of the front bracket tomorrow so you can see it.

    I didn't take it this far apart not to make sure it was put back together better in terms of drivability.

  12. #200
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Virginia is for cops
    Posts
    202
    Inspired by killbill, but a bit less overkill, I remade the front boxes out of 16 Ga. I skipped most of the flaps like killbill did, but did not internally strengthen as I don't plan on using them as jack points. He did a better job, those interested, see page 8





    Spend the rest of the day tinkering with the old welder, converting it back to 75/25 gas and smaller wire. Also need to reverse polarity. I kept running into small issues dialing it in so I never got to tack either of the boxes on.

    So I decided welding wasn't in the cards today, but I got my cheap ebay hydro handbrake in the mail, so I can unfreeze this second Z32 caliper... but one of the threads wasn't the standard brake line size so I couldn't do that either.
    Oh well

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 3 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 3 guests)

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts