Resto mod from rolling shell - Page 21

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  1. #201
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    For the outer camber bolts, since I was doing a full metal resto to the car I was doing the camber mod too at the same time as you are, I just trimmed the offending sheet metal off the car to get better access to the bolt head lol. Took this portion off...

    Annotation 2019-05-16 125955.jpg

    I don't see any spot welds there in that pic, but there must be. I'm sure I had to mig weld a bead on the edge of the steel I left there, and then clean it and seal it from inside. Unless all the spot welds were inboard of that piece, then its easy as zipping it off and prime and paint.
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  3. #202
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    I too was going to remove that offending sheet, but was leaning toward just bending it out of the way. I was looking at it the other day and I don't believe there are any welds.

    Either way the bolt still is so up against that edge so you would have to attach the arm beforehand and it would limit you to dropping the frame to remove the arms.

  4. #203
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Thats not really a limitation. The subframe, if left fully assembled, is just 4 nuts (plus brake lines). Also, I've never had need to remove an A arm separate of the rest of the rear subframe, they always come off together it seems (20 Supras can't be wrong lol). Even if you did have to remove just an arm, it likely wouldn't work out anyways. Getting the stock bolts to slide out often requires hammering on the other side of them due to the metal sleeves inside of the bushings. Come to think of it, I think I have actually unsuccessfully tried to remove an arm by itself before and been forced to drop the subframe anyways.

    I was just under a mk2 yesterday, there are spot welds there. You could bend it into the wheel well, but I wouldn't bend it the other way as it will likely crack the paint when you bend it and then you'll have an enclosed space that you can't access. I must have welded the seam after zipping it off.
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  6. #204
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Your way it is then with the bolts. Adjustment head to the outside! I'll take a look at that flap and think about what I want to do with it. Right now half of it is gone on the right side anyway since that panel is gonezo right now.

    I got one of those front boxes welded back on but it is some hideous welding. I almost don't want to document it. I tried prying it off, but the metal just bent, so it is for sure on there, just in the ugliest way imaginable. I was having a lot of arc blowout issues welding in tight spaces and 90 degree angles.

    I went to tack on the other box and further disgrace myself; however one side has like a half an inch gap so need to re-make it with more metal.

  7. #205
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    New boxes. I kind of bit off killbill's ideas, I used 16 gauge sheet and instead of spot welding flaps I tee'd them in. The main difference between mine and his is that I more closely followed the stock angles as opposed to his more rectangular box, and I didn't internally reinforce mine as I wasn't sure how easy it's gonna be to get in there and paint and seal everything. My welding is in two words bad and blobby, but I tried prying them apart and it was just bending the metal so I think it should be alright. Most blobs are from going back to fill in gaps.












  8. #206
    Whistles racerxj220's Avatar
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    Excellent.

  9. #207
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Not too bad. Don't jack off them though, they won't be strong enough for that.

    For cleaning up the welds and bare metal on the inside, hole saw holes through the floor into the cavity. You will need to do one for the outside edge as well under the fender, unless you can reach into that space from the access hole in the kick panel area by your feet. Technically you should add another hole in the floor where the frame rail is too to get that last side where your weld hit.
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  10. #208
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Nope, definitely not strong enough to jack up the car, however IIRC when reading your frankencar, any time you can tie the rocker to the frame a little stiffer than stock it's ideal.

    Yup I think I can reach the rocker inside from inside, otherwise need a hole there, one in the center of the box and then I think I might be able to get into the frame with existing access holes, if not another hole there.

  11. #209
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    oh, side question. If I wanted to weld in a reinforcement plate along the front gutter to allow for a three point front bar, how would you recommend I go about that?

  12. #210
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    I actually wouldn't recommend that at all. 3 point strut tower bars are very trendy, and you see them on all sorts of car, but there really is no strong metal structure to tie to in the center of our cars (and most). My solution to improve the fore/aft twist on a horizontal plane in the engine bay area was to beef up the corner braces. Its all in my reinforcement posts. The next step then is to tie into those with a strut tower bar or permanent bars to the strut tower like I did. And then the next step would be tying the front of the towers down to the frame rail, which I also did.
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