Resto mod from rolling shell - Page 11

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  1. #101
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Managed to snag a pic of the previously mentioned spot. It is indeed the outside seam of the air duct. Weirdly the inside duct seems fine. And also very sharp as it cut me.


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  3. #102
    Member Beernuts's Avatar
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    I wish there was a 'Like'-button in these forums, i know vbulletin has one..
    Great work!!
    '83 Celica Supra 2.8i Euro spec
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    A lot of Audis..

  4. #103
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beernuts View Post
    I wish there was a 'Like'-button in these forums, i know vbulletin has one..
    Great work!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Texasissouth View Post
    And I have one weird spot I'm wary about inside of the front cowling where the wiper arm goes. It's on the side without the big hole (passenger side) and kind of up in there. Seems to be a small spot of rust and no way to easily get there, I'm not even sure I can take a picture. Gonna grab one of a car Fiend completely disassembled and highlight the spot. Has anyone cut a mirroring hole on the passenger side to look in there before?
    Ugh I hate that area. So much poorly protected metal on that piece where it connects to the inner windshield cowl panel. So look at that pic of mine you posted there, note that the 82s have an access panel to the top of the fresh air intake for the climate system. Man I wish Toyota had kept it, it makes fixing rust and sealing up that seam under there so much easier. So that's what I do, I made a template off this 82 and on DeanFuns 85 I cut out that panel so I could get in there and clean it all up. His sheet metal looks exactly like an 82's now. Of course finding a spare of that plastic panel that plugs that hole is damn hard, so I just made one out of a flat sheet of plastic. I screwed it on like the factory piece with oem screws and threaded clips, but I also siliconed it on as I didn't want water leaking into the climate system or interior and you rarely have to get in there after fixing the rust.

    As for a sandblaster booth, if you want be thrifty, just get one used off craigslist or such. They get rundown and people offload them cheap. Mine was actually free and needed a new window and gloves, and some seals. It would probably be a pita to make one that works as well as a commercial unit.
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  6. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend View Post
    Ugh I hate that area. So much poorly protected metal on that piece where it connects to the inner windshield cowl panel. So look at that pic of mine you posted there, note that the 82s have an access panel to the top of the fresh air intake for the climate system. Man I wish Toyota had kept it, it makes fixing rust and sealing up that seam under there so much easier. So that's what I do, I made a template off this 82 and on DeanFuns 85 I cut out that panel so I could get in there and clean it all up. His sheet metal looks exactly like an 82's now. Of course finding a spare of that plastic panel that plugs that hole is damn hard, so I just made one out of a flat sheet of plastic. I screwed it on like the factory piece with oem screws and threaded clips, but I also siliconed it on as I didn't want water leaking into the climate system or interior and you rarely have to get in there after fixing the rust.

    As for a sandblaster booth, if you want be thrifty, just get one used off craigslist or such. They get rundown and people offload them cheap. Mine was actually free and needed a new window and gloves, and some seals. It would probably be a pita to make one that works as well as a commercial unit.
    I was hoping I would be able to get into there with a hole saw and then just use some rubber hole plugs. However my parts car is a pre-facelife one so I believe it should have that panel, which is another option. That area and the spare tire well are pretty much the only spots of rust on this car so I cannot complain one bit.

    I found an old sandblasting media tank in my dads shed, but all the hoses are dry rotted, and generally it's not in super shape. The next best thing is a $99 harbor freight special and I was hoping to avoid the HF specialty tool toll as much as possible but we will see if I can rig up new fittings for the old media tank.

  7. #105
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Random question; do the first "gen" outside door handles that open this way <- -> fit in the newer "gens" with the traditional up down doorhandles? The older openers are way cooler.

  8. #106
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Door steel is the same, linkage and latches are completely different. You have to swap it all, not just the handles. But don't, I agree about the coolness factor, but the stupid inset nuts that rip out of the plastic handles do it even easier on the earlier handles as the force of opening the handle is mostly on the back bolt.
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  9. #107
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    That makes sense. The load isn't distributed among all the bolts, I might be tempted to do it and reinforce that area somehow. Most of my door stuff it apart anyway as the latch and everything on the driver side is questionably working; the previous owner removed it and I think he said he couldn't unlock it. But I'd have to swap lock cylinders anyway to swap the handles...

  10. #108
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Yeah I always put a layer of epoxy around the plastic and onto the nut to try and build it all up and make it last longer. And always use antisieze on those bolts! But thats pretty much required for keeping just the later handles working nicely.
    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
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  11. #109
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    I took too long of a break on this. I'm slowly easing into tinkering with it. While I wait for everything to be ready for welding I've taken to working on subframe and suspension parts, prepping them.

    I bought a bunch of poly bushings, will probably need to buy more. However the majority of install threads on here for bushings are old and have broken image links to defunct hosting sites.

    For the rear subframe (where the arms mount) and the differential support member 2 I have the energy kits. I assume you don't need to re-use the metal sleeves and they just press in?
    For the subframe it would be to sandwich the two parts in.

    For the Diff Support 2 there's a small donut and a flange shaped one, not sure how those fit

  12. #110
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    Also I bought the wrong bushing set for the rear control arms. Luckily I also bought 2 sets on accident so between that and being able to scrounge an eccentric bolt and that inner metal sleeve necessary for it from my parts car I should be able to put something together that works.

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