Resto mod from rolling shell - Page 2

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  1. #11
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Hey, should be imgur .com/a/6v4iN
    Without the space before the period
    The other album is
    imgur .com/a/TNQj0
    It says that some other people have viewed it, so I think it's working

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  3. #12
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Quick Update for all of noone following this thread, I haven't taken any pictures in a minute. Removed all the rear suspension, fuel tank, brake and fuel lines. Going to start removing the factory undercoating. I ordered some POR15 for when I eventually re-do the bottom. However, basing it off previous threads, there will most likely be some metal replacement needed, which means I need to start practicing welding, and getting supplies for that. It looks fine now, with the coating on, but I guess most do. I'm still weighing my options on that damaged rear quarter panel. It actually interferes a little bit on the control arm attachment in the rear. I might remove the paint in that section just to see what it looks like.

  4. #13
    Keep on progressing, you have some lurkers here. Don't give up or slow down, it will be worth it in the end!

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  6. #14
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    Later in your thread,you will be able to share what you are doing.
    Yes,we all want to know! The MODS are the things that want to know about,totally.
    Metal replacement? We are a captured audience,as always.
    MODS? I'm all over the metal replacements and methods involved.
    When you get an opportunity,show us your RUST,please. I'm interested to see how you will attack that issue,as we all are.
    ALL of our 30+ year old cars have RUST.
    Some,more than other owners.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

  7. #15
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Eventually I'll have enough posts on here to be able to put direct links. It's hard to tell from pictures, but here is a quick comparison of the undamaged vs damaged side. It's hard to tell how they fixed it, but I'm going to assume they did it poorly. I definitely have rust in my pinch welds where they've been manhandled.I'm still slightly going back and forth between wanting to keep a Toyota powerplant and being tempted by the dark side of how light, cheap and powerful LSx options are. Naturally aspirated is a preference, my DD is a turbo.

    Last edited by Texasissouth; 02-17-2018 at 02:46 PM.

  8. #16
    You can try photobucket for embed pictures, or google photos. Those sites will put the picture in your post with a link for anyone to click on if that makes any sense.

    I would also try to stick an inline 6 in the car, it was made with a i6 in mind so you will probably run into *less* issues. The whole 2 headers to cram into a bay really designed for one etc. It can be done, but I believe the firewall will have to be cut if it is a gm v8 (lt1 if I can recall correctly). I am not sure about the 90's 5.0

    Also, it is somewhat difficult to understand the location/nature of the damage and rust, but that is just me, im sure other more experienced memebers could understand what they are looking at.

  9. #17
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    There's a few people on here who have successfully done LS swaps, Discoelk and someone in florida in the least. There seems to be an easy way and a harder way, but the only body shaping needed is to bang out a couple spots in the trans tunnel. And your header options are limited by the steering rod.
    I tried direct posting images here but I hadn't had enough posts at the beginning, so it wouldn't let me. I don't know what the limit for that is, but I'll try again in a little bit.
    Also Katies c&c is worth making the early morning drive for sure.
    I went a lil crazy last night, George from raptor racing said the price of carbon fiber parts was set to jump 25% in the next few days... so I ordered a hood and hatch from him, they're already cheaper than Advan's website. I figure if something somehow doesn't work out I can always sell them for no loss. Also I can sell my stock hatch to recoup some since it's in pretty good shape.

  10. #18
    CelicaSupra.com Member gamble's Avatar
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    You'll love the carbon parts, I love mine. Def recommend hood pins, the thing flaps at highway speeds enough that i wouldn't trust just the stock latch. Source a hatch glass without the rod support hole for the big early style spoiler so you are ready to go, also make sure you order a new gasket from Raptor too.
    Last edited by gamble; 08-10-2017 at 05:49 PM.
    Hidden Content 86 parts car maybe some day race car? 3x cars, 36x brake caliper pistons.
    "You need to update your signature Gamble" - Dave

  11. #19
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Ah yeah I'll probably need a new gasket, I forgot about that.
    Which rod support? I have the dual level spoiler that covers the whole side pretty much. I'm also stuck with the middle brake light in the back as mine is an '86.
    I'm absolutely getting hood pins though

  12. #20
    CelicaSupra.com Member gamble's Avatar
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    Ok yeah the 85/86 hatches don't have the hole in the glass, the little wing doesn't need the extra support. This big ole 84 and before NEEDS the support rod that goes from the middle of the spoiler aka sunshade to the hatch glass which has a hole for it.

    Honestly unless your stock hatch is wrecked i'd suggest sourcing a new glass. New glass is cheap, and removing your old one without messing it up is tricky, plus you can then write off the stock hatch at that point. You gonna run a wing on the cf one? I went with no extra holes on mine, love it.
    Hidden Content 86 parts car maybe some day race car? 3x cars, 36x brake caliper pistons.
    "You need to update your signature Gamble" - Dave

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