hints on adjusting the window - Page 2

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  1. #11
    CelicaSupra.com Member Marblehead's Avatar
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    Step 6:
    The angle of the glass along the A-Pillar is adjusted by adjusting the front frame. The front frame is the black, triangular metal assembly to which the mirror is attached. Adjusting the front frame also adjusts the inward and outward angle of the glass but slightly. The front frame is attached to the doorframe via three nuts. The lower nut and stud have an adjustment capability similar to the guide. The lower stud can be turn clockwise/counter-clockwise to adjust the front angle to the glass. If the front edge of the glass is adjusted too far outward the window will not seal properly while closing. If the front edge of the glass is adjusted too far inward you will have difficulty closing the door and/or damage the rubber gasket. BE ADVISED: I have seen many of these front frame pieces with broken armatures. The front frame is attached to the door via three nuts, as mentioned earlier. It’s like an upside down triangle. The area around the two upper nuts has two extensions that connect to the lower, single stud and nut. (Sounds confusing now but will be apparent when viewing the part.) I’ve seen instances where one, sometimes both, of these extensions are broken. If broken it may make adjustment of the front angle a bit more tricky.

    Step 7:
    After all else is adjusted properly there’s one last item. With the window up, adjust the inner stabilizer so it touches the white, plastic plate attached to the glass. The inner stabilizer is the roller, all by itself, that is attached to the inner doorframe. The roller should just make contact with the white plate. Adjusting it too much may cause it to drag along the glass and it’s opened and closed.

    IMPORTANT NOTE: Mark the starting point of each nut. Use a Sharpie marker to outline the nut and use this as a guide as to how much adjustment is needed. A small adjustment at the bottom of the glass makes a big adjust at the top edge.

    Step 8:
    I need a beer after writing all this.
    Scott
    '93 MKIV TT-Hardtop, 6spd, black BPU++
    '86 MKII-perpetual restoration
    '83 MKII-6Mmmmmmmmm
    '77 Celica GT Liftback

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  3. #12
    CelicaSupra.com Member Glaucus's Avatar
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    Hmmm... This should post Marblehead! Perhaps someone should include it in some FAQ or make it a sticky?

    - Mike

  4. #13
    CelicaSupra.com Member Tire Shredder's Avatar
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    wow! I had no idea there were that many adjustments. I suffer from all the symptoms you listed, hopefully I can get it adjusted properly. Thanks a lot, This needs to be in the FAQ!
    Black 7M-GE 84 P-type Hardtop
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  6. #14
    CelicaSupra.com Member Gage006's Avatar
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    While we are on the subject of windows, how do fix the window from rattling like crazy when I roll it down? Is it as simple as removing all the door trim and tightening the bolts or does it mean that the motor is on it's way out?
    Brian
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  7. #15
    CelicaSupra.com Member Deanfun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MkIISuperSupra
    I sure am glad that we didn't know this was such a problem when we pulled the glass and replaced the whole mechanical mechanism in one of Jeff's cars. Might have made us screw it up if we'd realized it was difficult. We just took it all apart put it all back together, adjusted it a bit to get it to roll up and down evenly. So far as I know, Jeff never had any issues with it after that. At least He didn't mention it. I thought it was pretty easy at the time. Hope I never need to do it again, now I'll probably screw it up big time.

    Leslie
    exactly.
    Dean L.
    1985 Toyota Supra - Hidden Content
    2000 Lexus LS400
    2007 Lexus LX470

  8. #16
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
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    Woohoo! Thanks for all the detail. Yes, I was not aware of at least three of those adjustments and had absolutely no idea the sequence of steps. Will try it all this weekend. Send me your address and I'll make sure get some beer. 8)
    Phil D.
    85 Silver 6m-gte, completed 2000

    "I always observe the speed limit. I see those DAMNED signs everywhere."

  9. #17
    CelicaSupra.com Member Marblehead's Avatar
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    Phil, send me a beer gift card. Why don’t they have those yet?

    Of all those steps, you'll find that the ones you spend the most time adjusting will be the glass guide tip and the front frame. Those take a number of trys to get right. Well, at least they take me quite a while but I'm too much of a perfectionist too. The trials of being a virgo and design professional. :x

    Also, don't hold me 100% to this, but I seem to remember that all the nuts and adjustable studs relating to glass adjustment points are gold in color. That may help to locate all the different areas.

    I'll have to investigate the rattling with the window down. I had that once but wasn't sure exactly what was causing it. At the same time the window wouldn't seat properly when closed. After adjusting the closed position I didn't have any rattle when down. So, I'm not sure exactly which adjustment eliminated the rattle.

    One thing that I have done, almost always, is to try and close the gap between the inner and outer door skins. With all the interior trim removed AND the outer trim/window belt moulding removed, stand looking downwards into the gap thru which the glass travels. In some instances I've seen that gap change in width from the back of the door, widening towards the center, then narrow again towards the front. If the gap is too wide then the outer belt moulding will not properly contact the window, leaving a gap between the rubber edging of the belt moulding and the glass. The belt moulding helps to push the glass inwards, even if ever so slightly, BUT more importantly it keeps water from entering the innards of the door. With all the trim removed I try to squeeze the inner and outer door skins together so that gap is consistent front, middle and back. It’s tough but it does work. Don’t use tools, only your hands. Also, you’re not squeezing the1/2” vertical lip that the belt moulding slips over you need to push the panel and the vertical lip. If you squeeze only the lip all that is doing is changing the angle of that lip which will change the angle of the belt moulding. Changing the angle of the belt moulding will create a gap along the bottom edge of the belt moulding and the outer door skin.

    I know, some of this may sound confusing but hopefully when you’re looking at the door and all the parts my words and descriptions will become more clear than the mud they are.

    If you can’t see with your eyes closed then your imagination is out of focus.
    Scott
    '93 MKIV TT-Hardtop, 6spd, black BPU++
    '86 MKII-perpetual restoration
    '83 MKII-6Mmmmmmmmm
    '77 Celica GT Liftback

  10. #18
    CelicaSupra.com Member Gage006's Avatar
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    Weird, both my windows seal perfectly but anytime I roll the windows down, they rattle and squeek like crazy.
    Brian
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  11. #19
    CelicaSupra.com Member Marblehead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gage006
    Weird, both my windows seal perfectly but anytime I roll the windows down, they rattle and squeek like crazy.
    Brian, try lubricating the pivot points with lithium grease. All the pivot points on the horizontal equalizer arm (should be 4) plus the sliding roller in/on the equalizer arm and the EQ arm track. Additionally, lube the vertical glass guide.

    Also, on that roller part of the equalizer arm check to see if the plastic roller wheel is intact. The part of the equalizer that is attached to the inner door skin has a channel in which the roller/wheel slides. If the plastic wheel is broken or disintegrated then the metal post to which the wheel is to be attached may be rattling against the EQ armature. Similarly, check to make sure the wheel in the vertical glass guide is not broken. This wheel, about the diameter of a quarter, is attached to the glass and runs thru (up and down) the glass guide. If it’s broken or chipped it too may contribute to the rattle.

  12. #20
    CelicaSupra.com Member Racefiend's Avatar
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    Wow, that is a great write up! I had to do this when I painted my car, as I pulled the glass to do it. I gave up, and took it to Toyota. They couldn't get it right and tried to tell me my frame was bent ! I finally got it right with the help of my dad and the TSRM, but boy did it take some trial and error. THis should make it much easier. I'm glad I saw this, as I'm getting ready to remove the glass again in a few weeks

    One question though. What about the felt guides on top? Is there any way to rejuvinate them? Are they available from Toyota? Mine are so worn they've scratched the windows.

    Christian

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