Side View Mirror Repairs - Page 2

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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend View Post
    I've delved pretty far into fixing these in the past, but when you have a huge parts supply, just swapping in a problem free mirror is always the easy way out.
    Are you saying YOU have a huge parts supply? Or you know where one is. I would love to just buy the dang mirror glass with the screws attached to fix this, or just buy the entire mirror assy. I'm gonna try this nylon screw thing here soon if I can't find anything. But, I really don't have the time for it.

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  3. #12
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    I've owned 20 Supras over the years, I may (or may not?) have stashed stuff away for future repairs. I used to sell parts here quite a bit, but I've become jaded about parting cars to be honest. The amount of time it takes to complete a sale is really not worth the price you can charge so I generally don't bother with it. THEN I had a kid lol.

    I do have an oversupply of a few bits I need to liquidate at some point, but I do not have the time to deal with that stuff right now.
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  4. #13
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    I am attempting to repair a set of mirrors sourced from a salvage yard. One had a broken "adjustment screw", the one that goes through the gear and attaches to the back of the mirror. I attempted to glue it back together with DAP "RAPIDFUSE", but it was so brittle that I would no sooner glue one piece on and then another piece would break off. So I decided to replace them as described by Aero. He said that he cut them to 25 mm length. The originals are 26 mm, so he was real close, and that length should work. I found a pack of 10 M8X1.25 by 50 mm long from Granger, item number 253264104373. I'll report on any success when they arrive. Bob

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  6. #14
    CelicaSupra.com Member Darrow's Avatar
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    I had both adjustment screws break on my passenger mirror. Something to note is they are hollow in the middle. I drilled through the top of the piece after it was out and drilled the bottom piece that was still in the mirror. By drill I mean had a drill bit in my hand and rotated it. The stuff is soft/brittle. I cut the wood screw to length and had to decrease the diameter of the head. Put the wood screw through the adjustment screw and into the base with JB weld on the wood screw threads just for good measure. They worked for the first few adjustments so far. I am the only one to drive the car so I don't think any more adjustments will be made but they still are needed to hold the position.
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  7. #15
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    "The next problem is how to attach it to the mirror. The attachment point on the back of the mirror is not securely attached but is loose, it moves around a little. I am not an engineer but I had to believe it was designed that way for a reason."

    Aero is correct in that the screws need to be free to move where they attach to the back of the mirror because as the mirror is adjusted, the angle of the screw to the back of the mirror changes slightly. The originals snap into a sort of ball and socket joint, but become brittle over time and break off. I plan to use screws that have a counter sunk head with Aero's idea of using thin flashing material to hold them in place, but I will counter sink the hole so that the end of the screw is free to swivel.

    I also noted that the originals are hollow, and was going to do something similar to what Darrow described, but as I said the parts that I was starting with were so brittle that as soon as I attempted to insert the dowel inside, pieces began to break off. I would glue one piece back on and it would just break at another spot. So I gave up and decided to use Aero's method. I will supply photos if the idea works and I can figure how to upload photos.

  8. #16
    CelicaSupra.com Member supraz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverMk2 View Post
    Usually what breaks on these is where the spring attaches to the plastic body on the mirror from hitting something. I really wish these cars had the JDM style folding mirrors on them.
    It seems to me that the spring that Toyota used is just way too high a tension for the application.
    It looks like the spring is there to allow the mirror to fold back when struck lightly and then return. Instead, the screws that secure the spring mount to the mirror body pull out of the plastic.

    Would a spring with lower tension make this function more the way it was designed? If the spring tension was too low I suspect that the mirrors would vibrate badly, but the current one is so high I don't actually see the point of having it; why not just mount the mirror with a solid mount?


    The Phillips head screws that secure the sheet metal spring retainer to the shell are what typically pull out of the shell if the mirror is struck.

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  9. #17
    CelicaSupra.com Member RedP85's Avatar
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    There is another version of them, with the spring completely to the top of the assembly. 85 at least.
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  10. #18
    CelicaSupra.com Member supraz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedP85 View Post
    There is another version of them, with the spring completely to the top of the assembly. 85 at least.
    Yes, the one I have on my wife's 84 is actually the one you mention.

    Murakami Passenger Side Mirror.jpg
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    You can see the spring mount where it has come loose from the shell.
    My wife bumped into the mirror from the front and the retainer screw (yellow) pulled out of the mirror shell (red).
    It got me to thinking that the spring tension seems extremely high for this part. It doesn't let the mirror shell fold back like it was designed to do, especially on 34 year old crystallized plastic mirror shells.

    I am trying to find the spring tension of this spring. The initial tension seems to be about 20 lb. which seems quite high. I am going to see if a lower initial tension would still prevent the mirror from moving around while letting the mirror spring back more readily. I would really prefer not to break another mirror shell.

    Dale
    Last edited by supraz; 11-30-2018 at 08:54 PM.
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  11. #19
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    The factory spring is around 80 lb per inch (this is enormous for a door mirror) and measures 1/2" OD and just over 4" long between the inside of the hooks.

    I am actually repairing the mirrors on my car right now (the drivers side has a cracked housing so I need a replacement), the passenger side is ok but the screws are pulled out like yours (I plan to JB weld the plastic screw mounts back and build up some more JB around them to help reinforce). I plan to get all the hardware (including the hinge) replated, and get the housings painted with proper automotive paint, gloss black.

    I found a good site for better springs, I'm thinking these stainless steel ones will work well (very close to stock dimensions, a little shorter. Also stainless steel and only 12 lb/in): https://www.thespringstore.com/pe075...0-co-n-in.html

    Ideally the spring will be just strong enough to keep the mirrors from rattling while you are driving. Using a slightly shorter spring than stock (4" vs around 4.125") will add a bit of preload too.
    Last edited by Funkycheeze; 11-30-2018 at 12:21 PM.
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  12. #20
    Boosting Mod SilverMk2's Avatar
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    If you take that spring off I highly doubt you'll ever get it back together again. If you just want to patch a broken one together screw the base to the housing and eliminate the pivoting function. The warning would be that these are made to pivot so if you hit something the mirror breaks without damaging the door.

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