Bought a 2JZGTE-VVTi a few weeks back and it is going into my 61 E100. For you young whippersnappers, that's an old Ford van. Just completing the engine/tranny mounts in the frame and then I can bolt it down, so I'm going to be looking to some 2J gurus for some guidance with a standalone installation. Thanks in advance, love the site!
I worked on fabricating the engine & tranny mounts. Which, coincidentally, one should never google image search for tranny mounts, when looking for transmission mount ideas.
Ok...so I've been reading what I can find, but I have not found an easy answer. Because this will be a stand alone swap, am I correct to assume that the big black 'box' that came with the engine is not enough to make it drive able in it's current state?
Do I understand correctly, that I need to buy a 'stand alone' ECU(like Megasquirt) to control the big black 'box' and tranny, hence the term.....stand alone??? Sorry, it seems simple, but I want to make sure I'm connecting all the right dots.
OR, is there a way to rewire the big black 'box' to make it run?
Is that the box in the engine the ECM is mounted in the engine bay on the Aristo? Usually they don't come with those. The only thing you need to be careful with on the VVTi motors is some of the cars they came with had engine immobilizers. Without the key and module you'll never get it to start. You can google the part numbers to see which ECU you have. You can always buy the ECU without the immobilizer for yours.
SilverMk2, I'm not sure. I bought it through JDM and I got it on a crate. I'll have another look at it tonight. Thanks for the key heads up. If the smaller black box is the ECM, then barring the key issue and missing sensors, would it start and run?
Post up a pic of your engine computer. There should be 5 plugs all grouped together. If you have a 6th plug to the right of those 5, your ECU has an immobilizer built in. See below. The top box has an immobilizer, and the bottom does not. I have been able to bypass the immo on a 1jz ecu using a kit from Russia.
My thread was for non vvti, but if you find the vvti pinout, the same wires need power, B, B+, etc... They will just obviously be in different locations on the vvti setup.
So, I've started drawing out my wiring schematics to tie 1960's to 1990's....Do I understand the pinouts correctly, in that the ECU does not control the starter at all? It appears there are inputs from the ignition switch to tell the ECU the key position, but no output to the starter solenoid. Is the starter solenoid controlled directly from the ignition switch?
Not on non vvti, and according to Wilbo's VVTI pinout, Either plug F59 pin 2 or BF2 pin 8 go to the starter. I think it is BF2 pin 8 that goes to the starter itself from the ECU. A continuity test would confirm.
The other, FS9 pin 2 is the STA signal. This would be the wire from your key that normally engages the starter. This way when you turn the key to start the car, the ECU is aware it is start time and then triggers the output to the starter to start the car.
According to the fist page of wiring diagrams on that page, the key engages the starter through a relay and does not go through the ecu.
When the key is turned to start, the power is supposed to go through a fuse, an interlock (i imagine this could just be a switch on the shifter), a junction point (which also sends power to the STA pin on the ECU), and then to the relay coil that energizes the starter solenoid. So depending on how much wiring your swap came with, you would ultimately have to send power from the ignition switch through a relay to the starter. On my 1jz-vvti, I didn't wire anything to the STA pin on the ECU and it has no issues.
I didnt scroll down to look at the diagram. I just recall on my non vvti, all I did was apply power to STA to engage the starter on the stock harness/ecu. Looking at it now, looks like it is tied together with a junction, which could be the case on the non vvti. I never dug very far into it. just enough to start it to make sure the engine was good, then sold all the stock stuff I didnt plan to use, harness, ecu, ignitor, coils, injectors, turbos, hydro water pump setup, map sensor, etc...
I highlighted the route for the starter signal from the switch, to ecu and starter and circled the junction in red. This is likely internal on the engine harness. So then from the diagram above, both of those pins get the same starter signal from your starter switch.
It would seem my understanding was not too far off. Part of the wiring I also needed to figure out, was also how to make the air ride pressure switch control the AC pump and one step further......I wanted an auto start feature. The control philosophy is such that in auto, when the pressure switch calls for air, it will hit the starter, provide power to the ECU and engage the AC pump, then shut off when the tank pressure is satisfied. After about 3 drawings, I think I got it figured out. Let me know what you guys think.
WP
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