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1982 P type 1JZ GE action

35K views 183 replies 18 participants last post by  mutantcolors 
#1 · (Edited)
And so it begins, after 5 months of research and parts hunting.


Oooh shiny flywheel (thanks JZ series for being manual-swap friendly)


Had to replace the water pump pulley, might as well do 3 lightweights for half the price of the single OEM.


And where it's headed, since I haven't show it off in a while.
 
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#56 · (Edited)
After a few hours over the past 3 days of digging into replacement tires, which will be a must-do, I feel the pain of no selection that I've read about.
Car currently has a pair of 235 BFGs and 225...something elses. The BFGs are full of tread but getting sidewall cracking.

I'm down to $140ish ea. for BFGs, about $90 for 235/60 r 14 Cooper Cobras/Mastercraft Avengers (that get wildly mixed reviews, love or hate but no middle) and Toyo Proxes R888 which are basically race tires and not exactly what I'm after.

I have a decent set of JDMish 14x7s I want to use. Not really interested in going big rim, but damn the selection is skimpy at best.
 
#57 ·
If you're going to go with small diameter old school jdm wheels you will want to go skinnier and lower profile. 14 inch has been a pretty dead size for a long time, 15s pretty much too, but there are still 2 decent brands of 225/50-15s available amazingly. And more options if you're willing to dip into miata diameters, a 245/40-15 for instance. I've switched to 16s for the daily, 225/50-16 is easy to find still.
 
#58 ·
235 60s would definitely have an American muscle look no matter how Japanese the wheel, which is how she sits now and I'm actually fond of it. That's my background in cars. Part of it is I have the wheels already, came with the car. So that's an extra...call it $800 I don't have to spend, even if the tires cost more.
 
#61 ·
Upgraded 7M radiator. Pics coming when it's buttoned up.

The new water pump and OG fan off the 1J had different bolt pattern ---> looked into electric fan ---> found 2 fans and aluminum 7M radiator for great price ---> the radiator hose you see today.

I'm starting to lose track of all this shit, LOL.
 
#62 ·
2jzge hoses should have still worked. I like the look of those custom ones though.
 
#63 ·
I may have missed that, entirely possible. It's got some real tight bends, we're using a 90 elbow on top of what you saw.

It hasn't cost much at all for the cooling system and I hear these things run hot, so I'm not mad if I end up making an overkill tool for the application when an easy answer was right there.
 
#65 ·
Yeah it's a pain in the neck. I'm not happy enough with what we have on the radiator inlet side to share yet but we got the water pump side figured out. Best answer is probably silicone sleeves at the water necks and custom welding hard tubing to bridge the gaps.
 
#66 ·
Good day at the junkyard today.

I found a solution to the 7M radiator + xJZ in a MKII Supra. The water necks create really tight and compound bends. Stock GS300 hoses can be trimmed to length. A touch long, but the hoses have the crucial bends formed already with some left over at each end.

I pilfered a relay box and throttle control actuator (remember that throttle cable question?) off a 96, which was non VVTi and some extras off a 99 VVTi. My engine has commonalities with both, it's slightly confusing at times but interesting to learn on the fly. All 3 fuel systems are different but various accessories either fit from one or the other, but not both.
 
#67 ·
Finding parts off other cars that work on custom projects... REALLY satisfying feeling.
 
#68 · (Edited)
Ha yeah, certainly was, and it was pointed out that 2JZGE hoses should have worked...I butted heads with that idea for some reason earlier on in this but the amount of weird shit I've had to address has blanked my memory as to why.

The end (of this phase of what will be a never ending project) is nearing, AKA firing her up. I think...

I need to post a pic, the bends are NOT easy. They were similar off the 2J but it still took some doing.

edit - I did mention I'd post a pic when it was sorted.

The donor:


The recipient:


Less than half the original length with a 3rd angle thrown in the mix, 1JZ water neck points more toward the fender than the old GS300 2J and the orientations are reversed, 7M radiator neck lands inboard of the engine water neck.
Radiator water neck is also 1/4" smaller OD than the engine. If it leaks I'll get the smaller diameter hose and stretch it as needed.

That's my PITA tutorial of the day.
 
#84 · (Edited)
Why is your engine so far forward? Most 2j swaps still have room to run the mechanical clutch fan. Dave did so with a mk3 aluminum radiator. Did you perhaps not move the motor mount brackets to their forward most location on the block to move the engine back to the proper location?

The recipient:
For example, look how much more room there is on this 2jzgte swap.

 
#69 ·
That's not a lot of room to work with, and it looks great!
 
#70 ·
That should do it. I had to solve pretty much the exact same problem for my 6mge with a 7m radiator. I ended up just going to my local parts store, rummaged around in their fitted heater hose selection, and found something for some random application that had the right bends. I did end up having to sleeve it in the center though. Put a piece of pipe in the center, 4 heater hoses in total. Not super graceful, but it worked. I should see if one of these gs300 hoses will work actually lol.
 
#72 ·
Found a great spot for the fuel filter. A little trimming and how to mount it, and that's that. Have to retrace my steps in the junkyard to know whether I used Camry, Sienna or ES (not GS) 300 fuel fittings. The bends are all different and I didn't know I'd need that info later when I was scavenging, but certain pieces are needed in certain places.


 
#73 ·
Looks like it will work just fine. :)
 
#75 · (Edited)
Yeah thats pretty much where I relocate the stock fuel filter on all of my mk2s. I HATE dealing with it bolted to the block under the intake manifold. Steal the stock mounting bracket off a 5m for that filter. I just used that without any mods to bolt the filter securely to the frame rail there. There's an extra 10mm bolt head threaded hole around there. Just be careful with the clamps on the hose going on the barbed section. This is high pressure shit so you can't use the clamping oem style like they have on the return line. I used stainless small size heater hose clamps as you can tighten them up really good, but one did back off on me once and start leaking here. So I use a little blue thread locker on the winding mechanism at all times now and that has been good. There's probably a better aftermarket solution then that out there. Obviously having some press fit high pressure lines made is the best way to go, and I've seen people do this mod with custom made AN fittings with braided stainless lines too.
 
#76 ·
I went out of my way to get EFI capable clamps. I'm pretty green at this level of car building, but I have some very experienced help/advice, and since I'm not about to fuck with high pressure explosive vapors and fluids spraying everywhere, I was pretty picky through this detail. Now if only I had a 5M laying mere feet from the car...

I'll go revist the relocation thread, I remember seeing it in passing when I had just joined the forum but I didn't about fuel filter location back then. Funny how things change.
 
#77 ·
There's no "wrong" way to do anything as long as it works well. When it comes to custom mods and swaps, there's a lot of room for criticism.

Definitely looking good.
 
#79 ·
Couldn't agree more. ;)
 
#80 ·
Yup. Most of the shit we do with these cars has a relatively low risk factor if we fuck it up, but 2 things you can never afford to get wrong is causing a high pressure fuel leak (can soak your engine bay in seconds), and rewiring your high amp leads off your battery so that they cause a short. I've seen too many enthusiasts burn their cars to the ground from these mistakes.
 
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