Whitey's never ending, money pitting, 83 Blupra restomod build - Page 2

Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 99
  1. #11
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by PB View Post
    It sure is great to post a build thread a year and a half later so you can skip the gory details!
    In case you forgot, I have those intake parts you may want so you don't have to convert anything. Let me know. I'm so far from my build being close to completion, I may consider having you guinea pig my FFIM set-up. Muahaha! If you're down. We'll get together soon now that the craziness of the holidays are behind us.
    Hey man! Yes we definitely will get together soon. I didnt forget. I hate taking your parts. I want to see you get your build going. I do understand life changes yiud priorities and things. We shall see. Going ffim will require a new intercooler as mine has the in and out on same side. Unless I want to learn how to tig weld! Ha. One of these days but that's an art and skill all by itself. And you need good equipment. Anyway we shall chat soon.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

  2. Remove Advertisements
    CelicaSupra.com
    Advertisements

  3. #12
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    10,131
    Nice to get that info on the tear down, sounds like the builder is claiming some fault for the failure?

    Kinda sounds like too much fuel was the biggest problem, or the rings hadn't sealed fully.

    That new oil relief piston and spring is cool! However, the maker of it had different perf targets then most. I believe the stock oil pressure for 7mgte's is at least adequate for most people's builds and the stock RPM limit. This guy is obviously building a drag motor that he wants to spin well past what the motor was designed to do. There certainly can be such thing as too much oil pressure but I'm not enough of an expert to say off hand that the 70-80 he is quoting on a turbo build running the stock redline would be. My advise was to replace all of the original springs in the oil system that limit peak oil pressure, which includes the sandwhich plate's relief vale, the one in the pump and each and every piston squirter. If you install this dudes stiffer spring, you may not see much higher pressure then stock f you keep the piston squirters. All of those springs bleed peak oil pressure, they fully open around 45-48psi apparently...

    http://www.supramania.com/forums/thr...sure-Test-Info

    Its possible the orifices in them limit the rate of flow enough that they don't cap overall oil pressure at 48psi, but they may. Regardless, if the springs in them are worn and softer then new ones, you will most certainly see lower peak oil pressures then stock, which of course is no good for rod bearings.
    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    New SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!

  4. #13
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend View Post
    Nice to get that info on the tear down, sounds like the builder is claiming some fault for the failure?

    Kinda sounds like too much fuel was the biggest problem, or the rings hadn't sealed fully.

    That new oil relief piston and spring is cool! However, the maker of it had different perf targets then most. I believe the stock oil pressure for 7mgte's is at least adequate for most people's builds and the stock RPM limit. This guy is obviously building a drag motor that he wants to spin well past what the motor was designed to do. There certainly can be such thing as too much oil pressure but I'm not enough of an expert to say off hand that the 70-80 he is quoting on a turbo build running the stock redline would be. My advise was to replace all of the original springs in the oil system that limit peak oil pressure, which includes the sandwhich plate's relief vale, the one in the pump and each and every piston squirter. If you install this dudes stiffer spring, you may not see much higher pressure then stock f you keep the piston squirters. All of those springs bleed peak oil pressure, they fully open around 45-48psi apparently...

    http://www.supramania.com/forums/thr...sure-Test-Info

    Its possible the orifices in them limit the rate of flow enough that they don't cap overall oil pressure at 48psi, but they may. Regardless, if the springs in them are worn and softer then new ones, you will most certainly see lower peak oil pressures then stock, which of course is no good for rod bearings.
    Yeah the machine shop is working with me on the price of the rebuild. He's a real nice guy and actually his dad starting the shop in fort worth in like 1965 or something. They just moved the shop to Cleburne tx which is a little south of fort worth. So they've been tied up getting it read. Hoping to get the motor back by end of month.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

  5. Remove Advertisements
    CelicaSupra.com
    Advertisements

  6. #14
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    301
    Got a little done this weekend
    I'm pretty much finished stripping the engine bay. It's ready for a deep clean, sand and then paint.

    Any suggestions to fix the rust in the bolt holes for the bumper?

    I took off the lower radiator supports and the rubber looks like it's in bad shape. This normal? I previously had a mk3 rad so thinking it poked a few holes in the rubber.

    Also, I took our the gas pedal and acc cable. When taking it off i noticed there is a white plastic piece with a black thing that seems to serve as a stop to keep pedal from travelling too far. Does this look broken? If so any ideas on how to fix?










    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Whitey482; 01-21-2018 at 11:14 PM.

  7. #15
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    301
    Another pic of engine bay



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

  8. #16
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    6,161
    For cleaning rust out of threaded holes I use what's sometimes called a bottle brush or tube brush with wire bristles. I'll have a bunch of different sizes (usually a tool vendor sells them cheap at the swap meets and I'll stock up). I'll cut the loop off the handle end, stick them in a drill and basically run them in and out the hole, making clouds of red dust until clean. I've also used gun cleaning bore brushes tho they tend to be a bit expensive for what's often a one-time use.
    Phil D.
    85 Silver 6m-gte, completed 2000

    "I always observe the speed limit. I see those DAMNED signs everywhere."

  9. #17
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by pdupler View Post
    For cleaning rust out of threaded holes I use what's sometimes called a bottle brush or tube brush with wire bristles. I'll have a bunch of different sizes (usually a tool vendor sells them cheap at the swap meets and I'll stock up). I'll cut the loop off the handle end, stick them in a drill and basically run them in and out the hole, making clouds of red dust until clean. I've also used gun cleaning bore brushes tho they tend to be a bit expensive for what's often a one-time use.
    Thanks Phil. These holes are not threaded as the bolt is very long goes through the frame rail and then has a nut on the bottom. The top of the bolt has an oblong washer so that it catches onto the nearby metal and you can tighten the nut underneath with the bolt staying in place. I do like your suggestion of using a bottle or tube brush with wire bristles. i'll see what i can find and then maybe spray some rust oleum paint down in the hole or heck I could even just use the same paint I'm using on the entire engine bay.

  10. #18
    CelicaSupra.com Member gamble's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    3,261
    Or use stuff that converts rust to a hard surface since it is hiding anyway. Lots comes in liquid form so you can wipe it on with a rag or just let it run down between surfaces.

    Here is my post on rust removal, super long but it goes over stuff i used to drip between surface i wasn't going to separate more than i had to.
    https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...l=1#post939857
    Hidden Content 86 parts car maybe some day race car? 3x cars, 36x brake caliper pistons.
    "You need to update your signature Gamble" - Dave

  11. #19
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    10,131
    Man, I never saw any of that stuff in your thread till now Gamble, don't know why the forum never promoted it to me (I was subscribed).

    Whitey, I see you already removed the battery mount, how rusty was it?
    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    New SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!

  12. #20
    CelicaSupra.com Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    301
    Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend View Post
    Man, I never saw any of that stuff in your thread till now Gamble, don't know why the forum never promoted it to me (I was subscribed).

    Whitey, I see you already removed the battery mount, how rusty was it?
    Actually the battery tray wasn't bad at all. Just some surface rust. There's zero bad rust on the car which is one of the main reasons why I bought it. Just some surface issues here and there like the driver side headlight mounting point. And the bolt holes for the bumper

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts