Toyota Celica Supra Forum banner

W-h-i-t-e-y-'-s never ending, money pitting, 83 Blupra restomod build

28K views 156 replies 18 participants last post by  Whitey482 
#1 ·
Hey everyone,

I have been working on this build for quite some time and figured it was time to put a build thread together. I have posted various threads and thing since i bought it and will reference previous threads so you all can get idea of what I've done and challenges faced and overcame.

I suppose I should start from the beginning. the VERY beginning. I purchased my first supra back in 2001. It was a MKIII from the original owner, very well kept, 93k miles. I was 19 and just starting college and had no idea what i was getting into. Long story short I went through two motors and called it quits. In 2003, I purchased a near mint 1985 MKII from original owner. I had a 6M swapped in and over tightened the alternator belt and ruptured the water pump pulley, car overheated and motor was toast. I took a hiatus from supras after that until two years ago.

I purchased my current 83 P-Type right here from this forum from a fellow member. It's hard to believe that was almost two years ago. I flew to Las Vegas, bought the car and drove it back home here in Dallas

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?99026-83-P-type-W58-77K-no-rust

I did not waste any time when I got the car home. About a month later, I pulled the motor and transmission and posted them for sale. My goal at the time was to swap in a 2JZ.







But then I found a decent MK3 Turbo for sale here in Dallas and decided to pick that up and swap in the 7mgte motor. I also want to stay true to the M series motors and the 7m was the last in that line. Here's a couple pics.







I didn't waste any time and pulled the motor and tranny out of the mk3. This was around May 2016. The plan was to drop this straight into the mk2. I started doing some leak down testing and things, and noticed a few of the cylinders were leaking more than 20%. The car had over 200k miles and the previous owner didn't know much about it. I decided if I’m going to do this swap I better do it right the first time so I wouldn't have to pull the motor again. Also, the r154 transmission would not shift into first gear. I thought it was a shifter bushing so i bought BillyM's shift gasm kit and slapped that on but still wouldn't shift into first. Clearly the tranny had to be rebuilt and I also decided to have the motor rebuilt too.


I had the motor completely rebuilt to stock. New pistons, bored 0.020" over, connecting rods, bearings, oil pump (bought a new oil pump from a cressy for front sump set up). Block decked for metal head gasket. Head was completely gone through, new valve stem seals. No port or polish. Basically, just a stock refresh. my goal is 400-450whhp eventually on the 7m.

I got the motor back in August 2016.










Then, I tackled the wiring. At first, I sent off the 7m engine harness and the 5m engine harness to a guy recommended on the supraforums. He supposedly merged the two together. Little did i know that there are several connections you have to make on the chassis side for everything to work correctly. I got the harness back and nothing worked. So I decided to tackle the wiring myself. I purchased a used complete engine harness in very good condition. I had to replace a few of the connectors and run some new wires. I researched and researched and researched on how to make the conversion. I bought an 83 and 89 TEWD and went to studying. I found this thread here which made the wiring pretty simple. I converted my living room to a wiring harness factory for about two months and finally completed it. And guess what? It works!







And here is the first test drive of the swap completed.




Then, I had a custom exhaust fabricated. 3" stainless steel, mandrel bent from the downpipe back. NO cat.





At this point, I wanted to get the car ready for a road trip to Supras in Vegas. I upgraded the brakes to Q45/MPVs up front, stock rear brake refresh in the rear and AGXs all the way around. Then, new wheels and tires. I figured this should be enough to make a 1200 mile trip one way.

Test fitting my new wheels. I decided to go with XXR 529s. 17x16.25 in the front and 17x19.75 in the rear.



I replaced the inner and outer tie rods, ball joints and sway bar link bushings.






I posted a few threads about the brake upgrade and wheels.

Q45/MPV Brake Upgrade Sanity Check


Wheel Thread/Questions


I wanted to get the car ready for Supras in Vegas. Here's a cool shot of the scenic drive to Lake Mead.



Supras in Vegas was a blast and met a lot of great people and their cars. I got a lot of good ideas on upgrades and things. The only hiccup with the car on the trip was a coolant leak on the intake side. It only delayed us about a couple hours but got it fixed.

Then, after the trip, I changed the oil. After 2400 miles, the motor was fully broken in by now. Unfortunately I found metal shavings and coolant in the oil. I was like you gotta be kidding me. The car ran and drove great the whole trip. Well, I checked the head stud nuts and sure enough about half of them were loose. Meaning I checked each nut with my torque wrench to see if they were still tight at 90 ft-ibs. I jumped the gun and decided to pull the motor and inspect. I tore it all down to the bare block and looked at the cylinder walls, took off a couple of the main caps and checked the bearings. Everything looked fine. But the metal shavings in the oil was very concerning. So I decided to take the block and head over to the same machine shop that rebuilt it and had them look it over. Of course at this point I was well past the 1 year warranty. The guy said that my rod bearings were near toast and needed to be replaced. The motor must have been running very rich.

So current state of the car and plans from here:

1. motor is out and at machine shop. Getting new coated rod bearings, main bearings are being coated, flex hone each cylinder, new rings (since motor is being torn down may as well), adjust valves, weld AN fittings on valve covers, install washer inserts into head. This is to keep the head stud nuts from loosening.. you can read about this here

2. engine bay is stripped.. I mean completely. all wire harnesses, vacuum lines, relays, brake booster, heater valve. Everything is out. I am going to clean, fix a couple surface rust issues and repaint. Also, cut out the battery tray.

3. Interior is stripped. I broke one of the outlets to the heater core removing the hose so I was like crap guess i need to replace heater core. To do that you pretty much have to remove the entire dash. Then I decided to remove the whole A/C system and did some research and found inspiration from this thread. I like the idea of simplifying things and this goes along with cleaning up the engine bay. The auto ac system requires a ton of vacuum lines, valves and sensors. I want to convert the heater and whole system to a celica with no a/c from the factory.

4. Install sound deadening materials throughout interior - floor pans, panels, trunk, spare tire well, everything.

5. Relocate battery and fusebox from engine bay to trunk, tuck wires in engine bay. I went to my local pick n pull and grabbed the power cables, distribution block and negative cables from a BMW 3 series. Their batteries were mounted in the trunk from the factory and the cables and connections are very high quality. I don't want to see any wires at all. My goal is a clean engine bay with all motor like the hot rods.

6. Universal oil cooler kit. I want to ditch the stock 7m oil cooler, filter housing and everything. I've done a lot of research on this and seems like the kit driftmotion sells is the best way to go cost wise and seems to have everything needed. I can't seem to beat the price piecing one together myself.

7. I bought an ecumaster DET3 from a local guy who works at ecumaster here in dallas. He's going to wire it up for me. and i plan to get a tune once the car is back on the road. I will eventually install a boost controller, IAT, and convert to speed density, set up two step, install 680cc injectors and hopefully get my air fuel ratios in line. Really looking forward to this part of the build. Along with that I purchased an AFR kit from driftmotion.

8. I got a wild hair to convert the intake manifold over to a non-turbo mk3 7mge. I read about the ACIS system Toyota developed on these cars. Pretty interesting and wondered how it would perform on a turbo car. I posted a thread over on supramania about this. Ultimate goal would be FFIM but that's expensive and well im sure as you can tell i've spent quite a bit already.

9. Rebuild CT26 turbo. The turbo was leaking oil and blowing smoke. I bought a rebuild kit with the 360 upgraded thrust washer from driftmotion. I plan to tackle this myself. I'd like to upgrade to a 57 trim eventually. Driftmotion can do it for you but again I want to save cost. I need to do more research and may be able to upgrade the compressor wheel myself. Not sure though.

There's a bunch of other small projects I've done but I think that's enough for now. Any comments, suggestions, or feedback would be appreciated!
 
See less See more
2 18
#76 ·
If you have a actual "7M" crank you need to clearance the oil pump flange or it will clearance itself pretty quickly.

I also have my intercooler mounted slightly lower than you do. I remove the tow hook on the left side where I have a 3" pipe and the opposite side just clears with a reduce and 2.5" pipe.
 
#77 ·
Hey silver. My crank is in fact a 6m. Is that good or bad? Meaning do I need to shave off a little on the oil pump flange.

I wanted to keep the IC mounted higher than cross member or anything else.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#78 ·
You need to clearance it. You can also elongate the hole in the flange to allow the pump to be rotated slightly further away from the crank. I had to do that on the 7mgte swap in my 84 over a decade ago when I went with the 5mge pump instead of the 7mgte pump with modded pickup tube.
 
#82 ·
Yes you are right. I ended up grinding the flange until it was past the block. Now there is plenty of clearance. Im pretry sure the first rebuild the motor clearanced itself and threw metal shavings all over

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#79 ·
On your IC you may want to look at buying 2 3" cast 45 deg elbows and welding them on your end tanks. When you put them on clock them forward and down and then use a 45 degree coupler to relevel them back out. Its something I've wanted to do on my car, but what I got works so I keep pushing it down the pike.
 
#80 ·
#83 ·
Been a while since my last update. I have made a little progress. I’ve got the motor pretty much all assembled now. I had to redo the exhaust manifold studs as cylinder number six stripped out on me. And then the bolt holes for the lift hook on back of the head stripped out too. So I decided to drill them all out and install helicoils and upgrade to a bigger size stud - 7/16”. I stole driftmotions kit idea - https://www.driftmotion.com/7-16-Exhaust-Stud-Kit-p/dm139.htm and pieced together my own.

I’ve temporarily dropped the motor in the car so I can start routing intercooler pipes and figuring out where stuff will go. My goal is to hide as much as possible without doing a whole bunch of fabrication because well i’m not skilled in that area. I may need to sacrifice hiding and tucking some things. Here’s my punch list

  • Mount intercooler and route piping
  • Mount oil cooler, lines and thermostat. Next big purchase is the oil cooler set up. I bought a used mishimoto thermostat from a guy on facebook and i bought an oil cooler from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MATC0BF/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. So now i just need the fittings and an hoses. I’m looking at getting those form summit racing. And man those things are not cheap.
  • figure out power steering cooler and hoses. Mount p/s reservoir in front of radiator instead of on the passenger side of the head.
  • figure out where to hid relays in engine bay
  • figure out where to mount oil catch can. Thinking of where the cruise control module is mounted behind the drivers side shock tower. Then need to move cruise to the other side of the engine bay or just ditch it all together.
  • sort out throttle cable for FFIM. I am thinking about buying a Lokar universal from summit
  • Need TPS from a Infiniti Q45. I have a Ron R FFIM with a Godspeed 70mm throttle body - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Upgrade-Aluminum-Throttle-Adaptor/dp/B00T59TL0W. . Says only works with q45 TPS. Does anyone know if this Q45 to 7m adapter would work? It’s 25 bucks from driftmotion and seems to me that would be the best route. Keep the stock tps and wiring. https://www.driftmotion.com/BPM-202-24-p/dm1043.htm
  • make or drill/tap plug for egr block off plate on back of head


Also one thing that continues to bother me is when I was cleaning up the engine block mounting surface and getting ready to put the head on, I noticed some pitting around the water jackets on some of the cylinders. I called the machine shop and they said it’s not a huge deal. You can JB weld it if you want. But it seems to me this could cause issues with the head gasket fully sealing. I previously had a metal head gasket installed and torqued to 90 ft ibs in stages. Do you think that could have cause the pitting? I mean cast iron is pretty tough metal. So seems to me it shouldn’t do that. When I had the motor rebuilt the first time there definitely wasn’t any pitting like that. Should I be concerned or not a big deal?

 
#84 ·
If the pitting fits inside the water jacket hole for the gasket, send it.

My head is torqued to 90ftlbs. Lots of us JZ guys are that high.
 
#85 ·
Thats a good point. I think it's close. Ive got the head installed now and a bunch of things already assembled. So I cant really tell for sure. The head gasket is a titan 1.4mm metal head gasket. Running 83.5mm size pistons so 0.020" over bore.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#87 ·
The pitting is probably from electrolysis, so it will still fit into the provision in the head gasket.

A yearly change of antifreeze/water is just basic maintenance.
 
#88 ·
Well I had the motor rebuilt two years ago and at that time there was no pitting on the block anywhere. Then I ran the car maybe six months and put 2k miles on it before i had to tear it back down to have it rebuilt a second time. Since then no water has ever been come in contact with the block. So I would think that’s not enough time for any sort of corrosion from the coolant or water. But who knows weird stuff happens to me.
 
#89 ·
Heres are a couple pics of the motor where I'm mocking up the intercooler and piping


Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#90 ·
Looking good on the fabrication. Respect.
 
#92 ·
You're right I think it had a bhg. When I got back from SIV 2017, changed the oil and appeared milky anf was a shiny metallic color. And the head stud nuts were loose. If u look back earlier in my build thread I talk about it. Car never overheated or anything and didn't have any other signs of a bhg.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#93 ·
Yeah BHGs have many symptoms, can come and go, and will have 1 symptom but not another etc. I'd say you definitely had one looking at that port and the milky oil. The loose head studs would explain how it happened and why water would be able to cross over that port that way.
 
#94 ·
I've been making a bit more progress. It's super slow though due to a bunch of things. My goal is to finish by October for SIV. Thinking at this point it probably won't happen. I'm not rushing this to get it done. I want to build this right and be 100% happy with the results. Anyway, here is my update on the punch list.

  • Mount intercooler - DONE and route piping - Almost. Need to clean up the two holes for the piping. One each side of engine bay. I was thinking of getting some exhaust trim rings for a nice clean look and then use a large rubber O-ring or something to seal it up.
  • Mount oil cooler, lines and thermostat. Next big purchase is the oil cooler set up. I bought a used mishimoto thermostat from a guy on facebook and i bought an oil cooler from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. So now i just need the fittings and an hoses. I’m looking at getting those form summit racing. And man those things are not cheap. DONE
  • figure out power steering cooler and hoses. Mount p/s reservoir in front of radiator instead of on the passenger side of the head. Preston helped me with this and we ended up putting an N/A 7M PS reservoir near the wiper motor. It looks okay but I would rather have a nicer reservoir like the stock GTE one.
  • figure out where to hide relays in engine bay. plan is to relocate to trunk
  • figure out where to mount oil catch can. Thinking of where the cruise control module is mounted behind the drivers side shock tower. Then need to move cruise to the other side of the engine bay or just ditch it all together. Currently it's mounted next to PS reservoir. May change depending what I end up doing with PS.
  • sort out throttle cable for FFIM. I am thinking about buying a Lokar universal from summit. Bought a new one for a Celica from rockauto. Length seems to be a little long but will work with it.
  • Need TPS from a Infiniti Q45. I have a Ron R FFIM with a Godspeed 70mm throttle body - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Upg.../dp/B00T59TL0W. . Says only works with q45 TPS. Does anyone know if this Q45 to 7m adapter would work? It’s 25 bucks from driftmotion and seems to me that would be the best route. Keep the stock tps and wiring. https://www.driftmotion.com/BPM-202-24-p/dm1043.htm. I posted a separate thread about my TB issues. I ended up ordering a new 70mm universal TB and will use the Q45 to 7M adapter from DM.
  • make or drill/tap plug for egr block off plate on back of head. Not started

My main focus right now is relocating the fuse box and relays to trunk. Does anyone have any tips or tricks of doing this? I found this thread from lacrssgus14 who did the same thing for the same reasons I am. I sent him a PM for some guidance / clarification on what he did. My goal is to not solder or lengthen any wires. I want to de pin all the fuse box connectors and run longer wires to their end points and then crimp on new terminals.

What I have done so far is I removed the entire front portion of the cabin harness, the three harness that go into the engine bay and laid them all out on tables in my garage. That way I can re route things a lot easier and visualize how I'm going to relocate and run new wires.
 
#95 ·
I've thought about relocating the fuze box and relays too, but cringe at the thought of having all those wires so long when everything that needs those is under the hood anyways. I relocated my battery and made a quick panel to hide the stock wiring nightmare under the fuzebox for the interm. I think I'm just going to do a nice short relocation of all that stuff to immediately behind the DS headlight bucket so its still accessible but out of the line of sight when viewing the engine bay from in front. Personally I'm all for show car engine bays, but never at the expense of reliability, performance or serviceability. I always try to find solutions that meet that criteria when making modifications.
 
#96 ·
I'm cringing too because theres A LOT of wires. I need to take my time amd plan it right. I'm studying the TEWD for my car and trying to put together a game plan. So far I priced out the wire alone is north of $100 USD. Keeping the same colors and quality as factory. I found this place https://4rcustomswire.com/. They have just about every color combo and you can order smaller lengths. Instead of small places that only sell bulk.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#97 ·
Here's some pics of my wire harness work station.


Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#98 ·
Looking good so far!
 
#100 ·
Been a while since I posted an update.* This past summer I spent some time on re-wiring the fuse box to the trunk.* I moved the wiring work station into the house since Dallas is hotter than hell in the summer.* I didn’t feel like baking my insides.* So I got to work on extending all the wires that go to the fuse box, figured out where they routed and in 95% of the wires, I completely replaced the wire following the appropriate factory coloring scheme, and crimped on new terminals.* There were a few cases where I couldn’t find terminals like the terminals for the turn stalk.

Now that it’s much cooler I moved the wiring back into the car.* I’m in the process of routing the new wire harness to the hatch area.* I followed the factory routing of the rear wiring harness.* And then will split off in the hatch and route under the wooden spare tire cover/floor thing. *

I installed a kill switch outside of the car on the rear license plate.* I will route power from the switch to a 300A circuit breaker.*For the starter I'm using a ford remote solenoid that will be installed in the hatch. That way the starter cable is hot only when starting. I'm running a 1/0 awg cable from the ford solenoid to the starter.

I’ve heard different views on routing a ground wire from the battery all the way to the front of the car to the engine block.* Some people say it’s necessary others say just ground the battery in the trunk with shortest lead possible to bare metal.* And then ground the engine block to the frame rail.*I'm going to try grounding the battery in the trunk.

I'm hoping to finish the wiring by end of year. Get interior put back together. Then start tackling repainting the engine bay.


Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#102 ·
Yes it is! And it's taking forever. I have a vision for an extremely clean engine bay showing off the 7m motor. Main reason to relocate the fuse box and battery to hatch is I went with a front facing intake manifold. There's definitely no room for the battery and the fuse box would be tight. So I opted to move it as well. More updates to come.

Sent from my LM-V350 using Tapatalk
 
#105 ·
Perhaps you already have, but if not, then this would be a perfect time to replace an old heater core.
 
#108 ·
Time for an update!

Finished the fuse box and battery relocation to the rear hatch. I tucked away various relays, circuit breakers and things in the passenger rear compartment. It turned out to be a great spot. I never understood what this compartment was for since it's an odd space but this worked out great.

Vehicle Car Engine Auto part Wire


14776



14777


14778


14779



Finished the HVAC conversion. I decided to go with a manual, heater only set up from an RA64 celica. I sourced all the parts from car-part.com and got the entire hvac including ducts, control cables and everything from a car in Idaho. It sat in a yard for at least 20 years and had dirt everywhere. BUT it was all there. The only issue i'm having with this set up is the heater core. The heater control valve on the celica mounts on the driver side next to the brake booster. Well that means the heater core pipes need to point toward the driver side of the car instead of the passenger side like the supra. The celica heater core would work great BUT it's discontinued and I can't find it anywhere. I tried to flip the supra heater core and point the pipes toward the driver side but they are not in the right position on the heater core to pass through the firewall. I fought for like an hour and tried to get it to work but it's just not in the right spot. I could open up the firewall holes but then I wouldn't be able to seal it up with the rubber plug. The other option is just use the supra heater core, point the pipes toward the passenger side and then loop back the heater hoses toward the driver side. The hose routing gets a little tricky this way and there isn't much room behind the motor. The third option would be to modify the supra heater core. Cut the pipes off and re-weld them on in the correct position for what I need. So not sure what I'm going to do yet. Maybe a local radiator shop could do this for me?

Mounted my AFPR and fuel lines:

14780


TODO:
-oil catch can
-sort driveshaft. I bought a one piece driveshaft from @SilverMk2 and he hooked me up. It has the stock mk2 flange with zirk fittings on the u-joints for greasing. HOWEVER, I would like to upgrade the flange for the diff to a Mk3 setup which is much beefier. So what I'd like to do is take the driveshaft to a shop, have them cut and weld on a mk3 flange (which i have) and have them shorten the whole thing about an inch. Then pick up the MK2 Diff adapter to Mk3 flange from driftmotion. The nice thing about this is you don't have to disturb the stock diff flange and pinion nut. I'm not familiar with diffs and so I'd rather not mess with it. It's a bit pricey at $125. I'd be about $245 all in on the driveshaft - $70 for driveshaft + $125 for adapter + $50 for cut and weld (estimate).
-sort throttle cable. I bought one from a RA64 celica but it's too long and broke the plastic thing on the cabin side. I found this one that is a couple inches shorter that might work better > 4Runner cable
-finish COP - coil over plug set up. Extend coil wire harness and mount the IS300 coils. Thinking about modifying the stock center cylinder gasket or start from scratch with some aluminium bar stock.

14781


-Decide to paint engine bay now or later. See dilemma below.
-mount boost control solenoid - passenger side shock tower
-Sort out power steering. Either DELETE and loop the lines OR relocate the PS pump and reservoir to the driver side underneath the alternator where there is way more room. More on that here

Parts Needed List:
-Diff Adapter for MK2 Supra Diff to MK3 Supra Flange
-Oil Catch Can
-90 Degree AN-6 Male to Female Adapter, Plated Steel
for fuel filter
-ECUMaster Boost Control Solenoid Kit
-ECUMaster Air Temperature Sensor Kit.
This will complement my DET3 piggy back controller and allow me to go with a speed density setup and eliminate the AFM. My upper inter-cooler pipe already has the 1/8" NPT bung welded on so it'll bolt right on.


BUT I'm at a crossroads with this whole build.. The car has been down and off the road going on three years this fall. I really want to get it running and driving again. So my dilemma is do I hook everything up, get it running and driving. Enjoy it for a while. Then, tear it all down and paint the engine bay later. Or do I just get it all done now. The engine bay has body filler all over it so it doesn't look very appealing and would not look good at any sort of car show. If I paint the engine bay now, I'm probably looking at driving it next year.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ddd228
#109 ·
I would say skip the driveshaft work on this go around, skip the engine bay paint, and get it up faster. You may end up redoing something in the engine bay anyway, so leaving it as is for now means less rework later.

Interesting ideas for how you ran the wiring. Not sure I would want that fuse box having to go up and down with the spare tire panel, but it looks like you stress relieved it pretty well honestly.

I know you can get slightly cheaper boost solenoid and air temp sensor kits, but ecumaster is solid. Are you able to pick the stuff up locally as well? He's based out of DFW area for the US importer, so if shipping is a concern you may be able to do that.

Killer progress man. I'm finally almost ready to start tackling stuff on my car after seemingly years of being pulled into other projects.
 
#110 ·
I would say skip the driveshaft work on this go around, skip the engine bay paint, and get it up faster. You may end up redoing something in the engine bay anyway, so leaving it as is for now means less rework later.
I'm leaning toward that route. I just want to drive the damn thing! And you're right, I will more than likely change my mind on something in the engine bay.

I know you can get slightly cheaper boost solenoid and air temp sensor kits, but ecumaster is solid. Are you able to pick the stuff up locally as well? He's based out of DFW area for the US importer, so if shipping is a concern you may be able to do that.
I forgot about that. Their US corporate office is in Garland, TX. I dont know if they sell direct from there. The closest dealer that pops up on their website is Power House Racing in Fort Worth. I guess I could call. But I'm ordering a bunch of other stuff from driftmotion so i just may throw those sensors in there.

Killer progress man. I'm finally almost ready to start tackling stuff on my car after seemingly years of being pulled into other projects.
Thanks Dude. It's definitely been a long haul thus far. Preston reached out to me and asked if I'd be interested in taking a trip down to Austin soon. I'm definitely down for that and it would be cool to make a weekend out of the trip.
 
#111 ·
#114 ·
#113 ·
About the heater core dilemma. I havn't done it yet myself, but I was planning on converting to the ra6 stuff myself too at some point. My plan was to keep the Supra core, and mount the ra6 valve in the vicinity of the supra one. Though lower and out of site, because its ugly. Yes I know this one is cable operated and the cable on the slider controls is sized to have it come out on the DS of the engine bay, but its not really a complicated cable. Just a wire that slides inside of a tube, I figured I could swap a longer one on, reroute it just make a new one thats long enough to come out somewhere on the PS of the car. There is too much going on, on the intake side of LHD inline 6 Supras, I wouldn't jam any more crap in that area if you can avoid it. Its hard enough as is to change the starter, deal with the booster, all the crap under the intake etc.

That said, good ol Toyota electronics, everything is still working fine in my HVAC on my 220k km 86 so the motivation to do this is still pretty low.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top