Hey everyone,
I have been working on this build for quite some time and figured it was time to put a build thread together. I have posted various threads and thing since i bought it and will reference previous threads so you all can get idea of what I've done and challenges faced and overcame.
I suppose I should start from the beginning. the VERY beginning. I purchased my first supra back in 2001. It was a MKIII from the original owner, very well kept, 93k miles. I was 19 and just starting college and had no idea what i was getting into. Long story short I went through two motors and called it quits. In 2003, I purchased a near mint 1985 MKII from original owner. I had a 6M swapped in and over tightened the alternator belt and ruptured the water pump pulley, car overheated and motor was toast. I took a hiatus from supras after that until two years ago.
I purchased my current 83 P-Type right here from this forum from a fellow member. It's hard to believe that was almost two years ago. I flew to Las Vegas, bought the car and drove it back home here in Dallas
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?99026-83-P-type-W58-77K-no-rust
I did not waste any time when I got the car home. About a month later, I pulled the motor and transmission and posted them for sale. My goal at the time was to swap in a 2JZ.
But then I found a decent MK3 Turbo for sale here in Dallas and decided to pick that up and swap in the 7mgte motor. I also want to stay true to the M series motors and the 7m was the last in that line. Here's a couple pics.
I didn't waste any time and pulled the motor and tranny out of the mk3. This was around May 2016. The plan was to drop this straight into the mk2. I started doing some leak down testing and things, and noticed a few of the cylinders were leaking more than 20%. The car had over 200k miles and the previous owner didn't know much about it. I decided if I’m going to do this swap I better do it right the first time so I wouldn't have to pull the motor again. Also, the r154 transmission would not shift into first gear. I thought it was a shifter bushing so i bought BillyM's shift gasm kit and slapped that on but still wouldn't shift into first. Clearly the tranny had to be rebuilt and I also decided to have the motor rebuilt too.
I had the motor completely rebuilt to stock. New pistons, bored 0.020" over, connecting rods, bearings, oil pump (bought a new oil pump from a cressy for front sump set up). Block decked for metal head gasket. Head was completely gone through, new valve stem seals. No port or polish. Basically, just a stock refresh. my goal is 400-450whhp eventually on the 7m.
I got the motor back in August 2016.
Then, I tackled the wiring. At first, I sent off the 7m engine harness and the 5m engine harness to a guy recommended on the supraforums. He supposedly merged the two together. Little did i know that there are several connections you have to make on the chassis side for everything to work correctly. I got the harness back and nothing worked. So I decided to tackle the wiring myself. I purchased a used complete engine harness in very good condition. I had to replace a few of the connectors and run some new wires. I researched and researched and researched on how to make the conversion. I bought an 83 and 89 TEWD and went to studying. I found this thread here which made the wiring pretty simple. I converted my living room to a wiring harness factory for about two months and finally completed it. And guess what? It works!
And here is the first test drive of the swap completed.
Then, I had a custom exhaust fabricated. 3" stainless steel, mandrel bent from the downpipe back. NO cat.
At this point, I wanted to get the car ready for a road trip to Supras in Vegas. I upgraded the brakes to Q45/MPVs up front, stock rear brake refresh in the rear and AGXs all the way around. Then, new wheels and tires. I figured this should be enough to make a 1200 mile trip one way.
Test fitting my new wheels. I decided to go with XXR 529s. 17x16.25 in the front and 17x19.75 in the rear.
I replaced the inner and outer tie rods, ball joints and sway bar link bushings.
I posted a few threads about the brake upgrade and wheels.
Q45/MPV Brake Upgrade Sanity Check
Wheel Thread/Questions
I wanted to get the car ready for Supras in Vegas. Here's a cool shot of the scenic drive to Lake Mead.
Supras in Vegas was a blast and met a lot of great people and their cars. I got a lot of good ideas on upgrades and things. The only hiccup with the car on the trip was a coolant leak on the intake side. It only delayed us about a couple hours but got it fixed.
Then, after the trip, I changed the oil. After 2400 miles, the motor was fully broken in by now. Unfortunately I found metal shavings and coolant in the oil. I was like you gotta be kidding me. The car ran and drove great the whole trip. Well, I checked the head stud nuts and sure enough about half of them were loose. Meaning I checked each nut with my torque wrench to see if they were still tight at 90 ft-ibs. I jumped the gun and decided to pull the motor and inspect. I tore it all down to the bare block and looked at the cylinder walls, took off a couple of the main caps and checked the bearings. Everything looked fine. But the metal shavings in the oil was very concerning. So I decided to take the block and head over to the same machine shop that rebuilt it and had them look it over. Of course at this point I was well past the 1 year warranty. The guy said that my rod bearings were near toast and needed to be replaced. The motor must have been running very rich.
So current state of the car and plans from here:
1. motor is out and at machine shop. Getting new coated rod bearings, main bearings are being coated, flex hone each cylinder, new rings (since motor is being torn down may as well), adjust valves, weld AN fittings on valve covers, install washer inserts into head. This is to keep the head stud nuts from loosening.. you can read about this here
2. engine bay is stripped.. I mean completely. all wire harnesses, vacuum lines, relays, brake booster, heater valve. Everything is out. I am going to clean, fix a couple surface rust issues and repaint. Also, cut out the battery tray.
3. Interior is stripped. I broke one of the outlets to the heater core removing the hose so I was like crap guess i need to replace heater core. To do that you pretty much have to remove the entire dash. Then I decided to remove the whole A/C system and did some research and found inspiration from this thread. I like the idea of simplifying things and this goes along with cleaning up the engine bay. The auto ac system requires a ton of vacuum lines, valves and sensors. I want to convert the heater and whole system to a celica with no a/c from the factory.
4. Install sound deadening materials throughout interior - floor pans, panels, trunk, spare tire well, everything.
5. Relocate battery and fusebox from engine bay to trunk, tuck wires in engine bay. I went to my local pick n pull and grabbed the power cables, distribution block and negative cables from a BMW 3 series. Their batteries were mounted in the trunk from the factory and the cables and connections are very high quality. I don't want to see any wires at all. My goal is a clean engine bay with all motor like the hot rods.
6. Universal oil cooler kit. I want to ditch the stock 7m oil cooler, filter housing and everything. I've done a lot of research on this and seems like the kit driftmotion sells is the best way to go cost wise and seems to have everything needed. I can't seem to beat the price piecing one together myself.
7. I bought an ecumaster DET3 from a local guy who works at ecumaster here in dallas. He's going to wire it up for me. and i plan to get a tune once the car is back on the road. I will eventually install a boost controller, IAT, and convert to speed density, set up two step, install 680cc injectors and hopefully get my air fuel ratios in line. Really looking forward to this part of the build. Along with that I purchased an AFR kit from driftmotion.
8. I got a wild hair to convert the intake manifold over to a non-turbo mk3 7mge. I read about the ACIS system Toyota developed on these cars. Pretty interesting and wondered how it would perform on a turbo car. I posted a thread over on supramania about this. Ultimate goal would be FFIM but that's expensive and well im sure as you can tell i've spent quite a bit already.
9. Rebuild CT26 turbo. The turbo was leaking oil and blowing smoke. I bought a rebuild kit with the 360 upgraded thrust washer from driftmotion. I plan to tackle this myself. I'd like to upgrade to a 57 trim eventually. Driftmotion can do it for you but again I want to save cost. I need to do more research and may be able to upgrade the compressor wheel myself. Not sure though.
There's a bunch of other small projects I've done but I think that's enough for now. Any comments, suggestions, or feedback would be appreciated!
I have been working on this build for quite some time and figured it was time to put a build thread together. I have posted various threads and thing since i bought it and will reference previous threads so you all can get idea of what I've done and challenges faced and overcame.
I suppose I should start from the beginning. the VERY beginning. I purchased my first supra back in 2001. It was a MKIII from the original owner, very well kept, 93k miles. I was 19 and just starting college and had no idea what i was getting into. Long story short I went through two motors and called it quits. In 2003, I purchased a near mint 1985 MKII from original owner. I had a 6M swapped in and over tightened the alternator belt and ruptured the water pump pulley, car overheated and motor was toast. I took a hiatus from supras after that until two years ago.
I purchased my current 83 P-Type right here from this forum from a fellow member. It's hard to believe that was almost two years ago. I flew to Las Vegas, bought the car and drove it back home here in Dallas
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?99026-83-P-type-W58-77K-no-rust
I did not waste any time when I got the car home. About a month later, I pulled the motor and transmission and posted them for sale. My goal at the time was to swap in a 2JZ.
But then I found a decent MK3 Turbo for sale here in Dallas and decided to pick that up and swap in the 7mgte motor. I also want to stay true to the M series motors and the 7m was the last in that line. Here's a couple pics.
I didn't waste any time and pulled the motor and tranny out of the mk3. This was around May 2016. The plan was to drop this straight into the mk2. I started doing some leak down testing and things, and noticed a few of the cylinders were leaking more than 20%. The car had over 200k miles and the previous owner didn't know much about it. I decided if I’m going to do this swap I better do it right the first time so I wouldn't have to pull the motor again. Also, the r154 transmission would not shift into first gear. I thought it was a shifter bushing so i bought BillyM's shift gasm kit and slapped that on but still wouldn't shift into first. Clearly the tranny had to be rebuilt and I also decided to have the motor rebuilt too.
I had the motor completely rebuilt to stock. New pistons, bored 0.020" over, connecting rods, bearings, oil pump (bought a new oil pump from a cressy for front sump set up). Block decked for metal head gasket. Head was completely gone through, new valve stem seals. No port or polish. Basically, just a stock refresh. my goal is 400-450whhp eventually on the 7m.
I got the motor back in August 2016.
Then, I tackled the wiring. At first, I sent off the 7m engine harness and the 5m engine harness to a guy recommended on the supraforums. He supposedly merged the two together. Little did i know that there are several connections you have to make on the chassis side for everything to work correctly. I got the harness back and nothing worked. So I decided to tackle the wiring myself. I purchased a used complete engine harness in very good condition. I had to replace a few of the connectors and run some new wires. I researched and researched and researched on how to make the conversion. I bought an 83 and 89 TEWD and went to studying. I found this thread here which made the wiring pretty simple. I converted my living room to a wiring harness factory for about two months and finally completed it. And guess what? It works!
And here is the first test drive of the swap completed.
Then, I had a custom exhaust fabricated. 3" stainless steel, mandrel bent from the downpipe back. NO cat.
At this point, I wanted to get the car ready for a road trip to Supras in Vegas. I upgraded the brakes to Q45/MPVs up front, stock rear brake refresh in the rear and AGXs all the way around. Then, new wheels and tires. I figured this should be enough to make a 1200 mile trip one way.
Test fitting my new wheels. I decided to go with XXR 529s. 17x16.25 in the front and 17x19.75 in the rear.
I replaced the inner and outer tie rods, ball joints and sway bar link bushings.
I posted a few threads about the brake upgrade and wheels.
Q45/MPV Brake Upgrade Sanity Check
Wheel Thread/Questions
I wanted to get the car ready for Supras in Vegas. Here's a cool shot of the scenic drive to Lake Mead.
Supras in Vegas was a blast and met a lot of great people and their cars. I got a lot of good ideas on upgrades and things. The only hiccup with the car on the trip was a coolant leak on the intake side. It only delayed us about a couple hours but got it fixed.
Then, after the trip, I changed the oil. After 2400 miles, the motor was fully broken in by now. Unfortunately I found metal shavings and coolant in the oil. I was like you gotta be kidding me. The car ran and drove great the whole trip. Well, I checked the head stud nuts and sure enough about half of them were loose. Meaning I checked each nut with my torque wrench to see if they were still tight at 90 ft-ibs. I jumped the gun and decided to pull the motor and inspect. I tore it all down to the bare block and looked at the cylinder walls, took off a couple of the main caps and checked the bearings. Everything looked fine. But the metal shavings in the oil was very concerning. So I decided to take the block and head over to the same machine shop that rebuilt it and had them look it over. Of course at this point I was well past the 1 year warranty. The guy said that my rod bearings were near toast and needed to be replaced. The motor must have been running very rich.
So current state of the car and plans from here:
1. motor is out and at machine shop. Getting new coated rod bearings, main bearings are being coated, flex hone each cylinder, new rings (since motor is being torn down may as well), adjust valves, weld AN fittings on valve covers, install washer inserts into head. This is to keep the head stud nuts from loosening.. you can read about this here
2. engine bay is stripped.. I mean completely. all wire harnesses, vacuum lines, relays, brake booster, heater valve. Everything is out. I am going to clean, fix a couple surface rust issues and repaint. Also, cut out the battery tray.
3. Interior is stripped. I broke one of the outlets to the heater core removing the hose so I was like crap guess i need to replace heater core. To do that you pretty much have to remove the entire dash. Then I decided to remove the whole A/C system and did some research and found inspiration from this thread. I like the idea of simplifying things and this goes along with cleaning up the engine bay. The auto ac system requires a ton of vacuum lines, valves and sensors. I want to convert the heater and whole system to a celica with no a/c from the factory.
4. Install sound deadening materials throughout interior - floor pans, panels, trunk, spare tire well, everything.
5. Relocate battery and fusebox from engine bay to trunk, tuck wires in engine bay. I went to my local pick n pull and grabbed the power cables, distribution block and negative cables from a BMW 3 series. Their batteries were mounted in the trunk from the factory and the cables and connections are very high quality. I don't want to see any wires at all. My goal is a clean engine bay with all motor like the hot rods.
6. Universal oil cooler kit. I want to ditch the stock 7m oil cooler, filter housing and everything. I've done a lot of research on this and seems like the kit driftmotion sells is the best way to go cost wise and seems to have everything needed. I can't seem to beat the price piecing one together myself.
7. I bought an ecumaster DET3 from a local guy who works at ecumaster here in dallas. He's going to wire it up for me. and i plan to get a tune once the car is back on the road. I will eventually install a boost controller, IAT, and convert to speed density, set up two step, install 680cc injectors and hopefully get my air fuel ratios in line. Really looking forward to this part of the build. Along with that I purchased an AFR kit from driftmotion.
8. I got a wild hair to convert the intake manifold over to a non-turbo mk3 7mge. I read about the ACIS system Toyota developed on these cars. Pretty interesting and wondered how it would perform on a turbo car. I posted a thread over on supramania about this. Ultimate goal would be FFIM but that's expensive and well im sure as you can tell i've spent quite a bit already.
9. Rebuild CT26 turbo. The turbo was leaking oil and blowing smoke. I bought a rebuild kit with the 360 upgraded thrust washer from driftmotion. I plan to tackle this myself. I'd like to upgrade to a 57 trim eventually. Driftmotion can do it for you but again I want to save cost. I need to do more research and may be able to upgrade the compressor wheel myself. Not sure though.
There's a bunch of other small projects I've done but I think that's enough for now. Any comments, suggestions, or feedback would be appreciated!