EU spec slow restauration from Austria - Page 2

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  1. #11
    Cross Member NOR813's Avatar
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    Pictures aren't showing up for me either. If I bring up the browser console there are lots of errors complaining about an invalid SSL certificate. I can view each of the linked images if I change https to http.
    Norbie!

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  3. #12
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    Now it should work again 🙂
    Last edited by CS1984; 06-27-2018 at 03:24 AM.

  4. #13
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    They are working now!

    wow, that is a rusty car. I know they are stupid rare up where you are, but I would highly advise getting a better car if you can.

    Here is a thread you should read if you are going to continue with this car...
    https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/s...ation+canadian
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  6. #14
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    I have seen worse cars getting back on the road, but yes its in a really bad shape.
    Unfortunately there are only 8 supras registered anymore in my whole country. If any appear they are in a similar condition or crazy expensive.

    Thanks a lot for the link! I have been following that restauration back then but couldnt find it anymore! Its a great Inspiration!
    I wont do the bodywork on my own, i can weld and fabricate small brackets but it wont be well enough for the quality i want the Body to be. So i will have to spend some serious money for a restaurator, there are quite a few good people in my area.

  7. #15
    CelicaSupra.com Member punkara's Avatar
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    Lol only 8 left in Austria! There were all in all 175 MA61s sold in Germany between 12/1981 and 12/1985! I know there are 7 in Bulgaria, 3 of them US imports.
    I wish you all the strength, time and money to bring your restoration project to the end, it is a very serious undertaking!
    On the bright side, your car is in a very decent shape, compared to what I have seen!

  8. #16
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    I can´t tell how many have been sold here in Austria, but it won´t be a lot.
    In the typesheet of mine it says the date of the type approval for the MA61 is September 4th 1984! So they started selling the car later than that. Mine has the typesheet number 31 and was registered on January 2nd 1985.
    I suppose the first batch of cars was delivered to the dealers as showcars and not ordered by customers. Mine was first registered to the owner of a Toyota dealer, so it could be one of that first batch.



    As they started selling it just over a year before the MK3 was sold, I am sure there were far less than 100 cars sold.

    I couldn´t get a lot done this weekend, I disassebled the rear axle. Surprisingly only two small bolts snapped off:




    I was able to take everything apart, even the stub axles were quite easy to remove. But that large nut sits to tight and there is no space to get the right tools there.



    The bushings came out really easy and I am glad I can reuse them:



    Even the suspension frame bushings were easy to push out. The beam itself is in a great condition compared to the rest of the car:




    Here is the pile of parts that I have collected so far. Everything except the brake disks fits to both the Supra and also my Crown:

    32.jpg35.jpg30.jpg34.jpg33.jpg
    Last edited by CS1984; 09-01-2019 at 09:20 AM.

  9. #17
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Your car has rusted weird. It could be that it was only driven in the winter for a few years of its life, but the salt is doing a real number on the underside. Most mk2s I see with wheel wells like yours have massive holes in the exterior quarter panels too. Though the back half of your rocker panels look like they have been fixed previously.

    Just keep in mind if you continue with this car and pay someone who knows what they are doing to resto it properly, the repair bill will be north of 10grand Cad\USD. We made that mistake with the LType in that restoration thread. We figured the couple grand we already had into the car plus the 5grand or so it would have cost to bring up a rust free car from the south end of the US wouldn't have made enough of a difference to bother, but we ended up spending 2x that fixing that car, and it is still not done yet. Also, we had donor metal from a rust free car to make it easier, including new wheel wells. You will have none of that if there are that few of them out your way.

    Also, I see SuperPro subframe bushings but I don't see Raptor Racing's brackets for them (for the ones on the front subframe). If you don't have some, get some or make some (they aren't too hard to make). Without them, it is just that lip of Poly on the edge of the subframe bushings that holds your subframe to the car when you jack it up. The factory brackets don't work with the SuperPros.
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  10. #18
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    I really apreciate your realistic view! Also that you have posted the link that I was so long searching for brought back a lot memories of the first repair and thoughts of how to continue.
    The level of detail on your project is amazing! For me its even better than the mat.fi projects because they dont have any restrictions from time and resources.

    Yes the car was always driven in winter. It was registered in January in Tyrol, quite in the center of the Alps, so I guess it has seen snow and salt from the first day on. And I also drove it for 4 winters, two of them in Sweden and Norway where they almost pave the roads with salt.

    The first big work was done in 2011. I first hired a body professional who did a very bad job (as they just learn to cut out and reweld prefabricated parts today anymore). Later my best friend a carpenter took over. He has fabricated a lot of parts from metal sheets that looked like original and has the feeling for how to work with metal.
    Unfortunately my backup harddrive failed some time ago and I dont have any pictures from that time anymore.
    It was a huge work on the quarter panel, rockers, drivers door, around the fuel lid and much more. Almost everything that the first guy has done is rusted badly, but the stuff he has done is still in a quite good shape.
    The bad thing is he is not the most reliable guy anymore so I wouldnt let him do such a huge project.


    I cant work on the car for the next two weeks, so I will take the time, step back a bit and think about how to continue. You made me aware that a restaurer wont just fix what I can jugde to be bad on the car but probably will do the same detail as you did, and for that your number is set far too low i fear.

  11. #19
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    Today I started taking some exterior parts off and preparation to remove the engine.

    I found some more rust, but nothing that I did not expect


    So lets start, yes she is really dirty! Things will change. A quick before picture:



    I expected that rust on the rear fender. all the areas that we fixed last time are solid, but everything we did not touch looks bad:



    The wheel well is bad... Still solid in most areas but rusted really bad. We did not conserve it well...


    The fenders look better than expected, only some surface rust in the lower areas:


    I did not take a lot pictures while working, so thats the progress until now. Radiator, oil and powersteering coolers are out and the engine and trans are only connected to the subframe anymore.
    It was quite easy to take everything off, except for the upper bumper nuts, I had to go and buy a long 10mm nut.

    You can also see the badly rusted Hood. Ironically on the most rusty area there was a sticker once that the car was conserved when new and had 6 years rust guarantee


    So lets take a look at all the stuff.

    The front wheel well looks fine, but there is a lot of thick terpentine stuff in there, when this is removed I can see better how bad it really is.
    The strut is as rusted as the rear struts but i tried to clean those and its just surface rust. I will have to find a way to conserve it.


    The A-Pillars look bad. There will be a lot of work to do:


    On the right side the radiator beam is rusty:


    I dont think it was a leaking battery because the main beam looks fine. And its straight:


    The other side also looks fine too, probably conserved by a leaking oil cooler line:


    The crash beam also looks fine, at least from the whole picture it seems that it never had an accident:


    A peak underneath the car. The main beam is very rusty in that area and the connection beam to the rocker is bent as the other three too. This also requires some work:


    Tomorrow I have help and will lower the engine, trans and the front axle as one piece. Most of the preparation has been done, so it should just be the clutch cylinder and some bolts.

  12. #20
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    It took me 3 hours alone to get the engine out. Mostly because my help let me down and i dont have the proper tools for that.





    Now I dont have free time to work on the car for a few weeks. The next step is to strip the body completely and then build a rotation frame to get better access to the underbody.

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