I'm getting more and more enthusiastic about taking cars that should have been manual but are automatic, and throwing great engines that should have been manual but are automatic in them. Simplified swapping and much improved cars as a result.
I just spent two weeks beating myself up over wheels because of tire selection. I went with 15s for the look, I think they go with the car the best, but tires are not easy to find.
17s have great tire selection but look a bit too big and modern for the car, to me. They can look great, but they don't retain that JDM styling.
16s are kinda the worst of both, a little too big for the look, with few tire choices. That's what I decided anyway.
wheels and tire and brakes is a pain in the ass, if I did 17" bronze centers with a black lip it would make the wheel look smaller? not sold on anything yet??
Can't go wrong with 16x8 +0's, i ran XXR's with those specs with great success. The style you are looking at is a replica of the CCW classics. You prolly want to space the rear out 20mm, either with a ARP studs and a slip on spacer or a bolt on spacer(not my preference.)
Here is a guide i did on slip on spacers for the rear: https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/...and-basic-mods&p=851393&viewfull=1#post851393
Maybe I'm not sure I will always be wagzilla on any site, Thankyou there are so many nice supra's out their, I'm just hoping to make mine clean and taste full!
I've had both the Ati and Fluidampr. Even the first generation one aluminum Fluidampr. The steel version you show is their best offering. Uses the OEM belt, and will last "forever" and never need rebuilding.
The ATi is "hone to fit" style, some heat helps but it's a lot more snug. I never ever found this necessary on our engines, and a lot of people making over 1000hp aren't complaining.
Plus, every decade or so, the rubber ring in the ATi should be replaced/rebuild the unit. The LSX folks have already broken ATi crank pulleys, but those are different design than the JZ.
As stated, it may be possible to sit an engine a little lower, I'm not sure on that.
I've chosen to use the Fluidampr for its simplicity, longevity, ease of service, and keeping the OEM belt. It still has provisions for a dry sump pulley, you just have to call.
I've had both the Ati and Fluidampr. Even the first generation one aluminum Fluidampr. The steel version you show is their best offering. Uses the OEM belt, and will last "forever" and never need rebuilding.
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Does it damper? Almost looks like 1 piece. I don't know why the JZ dampers are so failure prone, it's not that different a style from the M motor pullies, which seem to last forever.
thanks for the reply I have had both on other engines, I have never really had any problems, I'm new to the 2jz, learning slowly does that look like the right part number?
Nice man hopfully ill be swapping my 84 next year. Originally from nyc and mever had a car so learning about cars as i go. Deff not ready to swap solo might have a shop help/do if im not ready next year or maybe ill meet someone cool enough in san antonio to show me the ropes! Lol
Assuming you are staying automatic, I can provide details on the shift linkage and driveshaft selection I went with to put the same motor/trans combination in my auto 85.
Like I mentioned, I'd go 15 or 17, choose one downside rather than some of both IMO. Dig the bronze, I went with a flat gold myself.
Rota is a brand with good selection for our cars.
I found my wheels by accidentally landing on an eBay store that had some customer returns which were unused but couldn't be sold as new. All 4 cost me $400 delivered. Give them a look: http://www.ebaystores.com/aspecwheels
Please if any of you guys have engine bay pictures of 2jzgte vvti engine swap please post up some pictures, so I can get some idea's I want to make mine as clean as I can.
So one of the problem I was having was the new transmission was digital signal coming from transmission to the mechanical speedo. Dakota digital ECD-100 Electronic cable drive anybody use this yet? I'm just trying to figure out some stuff.
Speedhut.com also makes a digital-to-mechanical speedo converter. Digital signal in one end and mechanical speedo cable out the other. I haven’t tried it but looks to be an elegant solution.
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