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automatic blues

4K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Black Moriah 
#1 · (Edited)
thanks for reading... i have a 84 supra.. with automatic.. the other day i was trying to make a light before it changed to red.. i set the pedal down to kick it out of overdrive.. some say passing gear.. lol and at that very moment the rpms went up but car didnt go forward anymore..i got it off the road and noticed it wont go into reverse or drive or low.. it still locks in park and starts in neutral.. i have less than 90,000 on car total.. i dont mind to replace or work on it just want some ideas before i go crawling underneath... fluid level was alittle high i have had the car for 5 years now with no problems.. so i guess it was due.. i love the attention and at least once a week i hear stories from guys who had or knew someone who had a supra like mine way back in the day... every supra guy on the road waves at me when im out driving it.. i love my dragon car.. it looks nothing like every other car on the road today.. whats the deal with the mitsu 3000gt guys always wanting to race... easy win for me..thanks for reading.. a43de trans..it is now also making a whinning noise...it would chirp 2nd gear if i floored it from 0 mph.. shifted strong through all gears... it did jerk when shifting from park to reverse but i figured it was my worn ujoints.. i have looked through tons of post in the forums but havent quite found anyone with the same issues as i... i have the auto trans manual pdf.. like i said it would be nice if anyone reading this could give a strait answer before i devote a weekend to fixing a problem that only really needs an hour..
 
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#2 ·
Just when we think we've encountered every technical problem that could happen to a Supra, here comes a a new one. I've been reading these forums since the beginning, plus our listserve going back to the mid-90s and unfortunately, I can't say there have been a lot of posts on automatic transmission problems or particularly solutions. Its a fairly robust unit and when something does malfunction inside, few have been daring enough to try to repair it themselves. Rather most have left it to a transmission shop or just bought a used replacement from salvage. I assume you've already checked the fluid level and condition as obviously it won't work without sufficient fluid. If the fluid is not clean and clear, then it could be a sign of trouble. But sounds like the first thing you need to do is to drop the pan and look for debris in the pan to see if anything inside has come apart or worn. If so, it is probably much cheaper to buy a used replacement than to have a transmission shop to rebuild it. Wish I had the answer for you, but I call them automagics because its hard to wrap my head around the mystery that happens inside them. Once you have the pan off, report back what you see and perhaps someone smarter than I will know what to check next.
 
#3 ·
Start with what Phil recommended!! I agree not much on the forums regarding your issue with an Auto??
 
#5 ·
thanks for your responses... yes fluids are good and i have run the gauntlet of troubleshooting in the cygnus.. i noticed today that when i cut the engine off there is a wind down noise comming from the front or bellhousing of the auto trans.. im thinking torque converter or worse but either way i will get it done.. it sucks pulling trans.. on garage floors.. it will be my first auto to pull... have done a couple manual on 4 bangers but those are sideways.. thanks again for your responses...i will pull the pan sunday afternoon and let you guys know what i see...its probably for the best as i need to address the underside anyway... i just hate jackstands... and cement blocks will kill you...
 
#6 ·
I got my near pristine 85 SDR for $800 with this EXACT problem !!! The problem was the TC bolts. They were not there !!! I guess after 30+ years they backed out. One fell out when I opened the inspection plate, the others...metal shavings. Easy fix ! I hope you have same problem.

B
 
#7 ·
You can check to see if the transmission fluid pump is working or not by disconnecting one of the cooler lines. (you can do this at front of the car where the cooler lines go) (This does not check your pressure)

You can then, start the engine an fluid should pump out continuously and with some some serious volume. (use some old hoses to make sure your fluid makes it into a bucket) This is a handy way to do a complete fluid change if you want 100% fresh fluid in the converter after a drain and fill.

Like $9ktt said, also check your converter to flexplate bolts are actually attached, but you would have likely heard some serious chatter while driving before they let go, so there is that..

Another mechanism for failure move at all is that the pickup screen is entirely clogged up full of crap. These transmissions do not have classical paper filters, they have a large metal mesh particle discriminator, but these transmissions are one of the better toyota transmissions made. Its my opinion that they are 10X better than the A340 series used in the newer cars who have a far higher failure rate.

Because your car is simply not moving at all; this strongly indicates it's not an electronic shift issue because even with a total ETC failure you can still access to Reverse, 1'st, 3rd, and 4th but you will not have 2nd and Lockup. (memory on limp home gears)

Best of luck, let us know what you find in testing.
 
#8 ·
Any updates on the auto trans??
 
#9 ·
sorry i have not posted.. but i wasnt able to work on it till today... i pulled the whole tranny... there is something chattering inside... i tested the solenoids and they passed.. i installed clear lines so i could see the fluid movement and it passed...it was a pain to get that top bolt out... i am going to crack her open in the next few days to see if something obvious broke... but since its out im going to have it rebuilt....
 

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#11 ·
does anyone know how much rebuilding will cost... ballpark? out of vehicle and delivered... or what would be a fair price to pay for rebuild...and how long it could take to get it back... i have never pulled or had a auto trans. rebuilt so if anyone has some advice i thank ya in advance... with it out (trans) seems like a good time to apply some new undercoat.. i like the bedliner stuff that you apply with a roller... i have used it on other vehicles before... its a little bit more money but worth it....
 

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#12 ·
#13 ·
Wow! For there to be that much difference between a 1 year and 3 year warranty must mean they are pretty iffy in the first place. That's basically paying in advance for them to rebuild it a second time or at least covers their labor and parts.
 
#16 ·
sorry it has been so long since i have posted to this thread but i have been searching and reading up on the a43de auto tranny thatcomes in just 2 or 3 years of the celica supras.... i was relieved to find a utube video of a person withthe same problems i had but in a different vehicle but a universal problem shared by all automatics. turns out my torque converter was shot and the output shaft splines are worn...converter is easy to find output shaft not so much...
 

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#17 ·
torque converter was easy to evaluate as bad by trying to turn the inner set of races.(2races)..they should both easily turn in a clockwise rotation...but difficult or not turn counterclockwise. i wish i knew this all before taking the whole tranny apart but i got it back together and am just watching the web for parts...miss driving the dragon....been driving a honda crv...yuck.. i miss having that car that you never see another one of...and the way the mk3 and up supra guys give the thumbs up as they pass by....
 
#18 ·
Hi Rottenhalo, just an additional thought...
I read some place within this or another Supra Mkii forum that when you feel the drivetrain jump or load-up going from reverse to a forward drive selection or vise versa that in many cases a worn or played out rear differential clutch pack would produce similar behaviors. As I understand it, there is a rear differential kit to remedy this problem which costs about $200. See link below. I also recall it being said that it's highly recommended to have a seasoned mechanic that has access to precision measuring devices perform this reconditioning in case any other hardware within is out of "Spec".

http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html
 
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