Leak down test - Air and smoke out of oil cap? - Page 2

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  1. #11
    Member Shyzah's Avatar
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    I'll pop the valve covers soon to check the valve train.
    I tested the wiring a while back and it was fine. I was getting around 12-13v out of both of the injector wires for that injector. (To get that voltage, I hooked up the + from the multimeter to the fuel injector wire and the - to the - terminal of the car battery).

    Maybe I should just get a noid light to double check if its blinking. Also swapped injectors around and it made no difference. I know someone with a spare ECU, gonna swap that in to see if it makes a difference.

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  3. #12
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    Just sharing. Had dead cylinders as a result of plugged injectors three times in a row before i cleaned the fuel tank out using electrolysis and a sacrificial anode to clean the tank. My car sat for about ten years as well before i got a chance to start working on it again. Gas(ethanol laced formaldehyde is what it smelled like) was whiskey colored when i poured it out. Tank wasfull of rust. Needless to say i can dissassemble the intake rather easily in a small amount of time now. The picture is showing the inlet on the left injector "last chance filter" plugged with rust debris inside the injector inlet. I just cleaned with injector cleaner by holding them upside down and spraying into it with fuel injector cleaner.
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  4. #13
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    Sorry, disregard my post. Saw now you swapped injectors already. Thanks

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  6. #14
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WraithSupra View Post
    Sorry, disregard my post. Saw now you swapped injectors already. Thanks
    That's OK. The OPs didn't specify in what order he did injectors in relation to other things so may still be the issue. In any case, its a good reference for the next person who finds this thread looking for answers. I expect as these cars start to become collectable, there will be more people trying to resurrect one that's been sitting for decades.
    Phil D.
    85 Silver 6m-gte, completed 2000

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  7. #15
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WraithSupra View Post
    Sorry, disregard my post. Saw now you swapped injectors already. Thanks
    That's OK. The OPs didn't specify in what order he did injectors in relation to other things so may still be the issue. In any case, its a good reference for the next person who finds this thread looking for answers. I expect as these cars start to become collectable, there will be more people trying to resurrect one that's been sitting for decades.
    Phil D.
    85 Silver 6m-gte, completed 2000

    "I always observe the speed limit. I see those DAMNED signs everywhere."

  8. #16
    CelicaSupra.com Member Khlause's Avatar
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    Now that you have posted up pictures I do think you're right on the money with the bad oil rings. If the engine does not have a ton of miles on it, there is the possibility that the bores are still square assuming it's never been re-built.

    If you're familiar with how to check the bore for run-out and wear then this is actually something you can do simply by pulling the head and rotating the pistons to the bottom of the bore. It will not show you the entire bore, but here are some things you can look for.

    The XXXXXXXX pattern in the bore is stock from Toyota, aftermarket machine shops and some guy with a dingle ball hone can also duplicate this; that's why it's not always the best way to see if a cylinder is any good. This is why you measure the inside of the bore both at the bottom and the top in multiple areas not just side to side, but also front to back and at an angle.

    This will show you exactly how round the cylinders are, in turn how well the rings and pistons will seal. (Write down your figures and check the toyota specs on this to be certain things are in tolerance)

    If you open the engine and do not see that XXXXXXX pattern on the cylinder walls, then the bore is worn badly and the oil consumption / smoke is just a byproduct of this.

    If the bores are round and still retain the XXXXXX pattern then your oil rings are stuck, and likely due to corrosion.. There is no sure way to fix this, but there are few things you can try to remedy the problem.

    Drain the motor oil, and poor some kerosene into the cylinder while its 3/4 to the top, and rotate the crank to move that piston down and then back up; this allows the kero to get down into the rings and maybe clear it. You can use other penetrating oils if you like, I have had luck with good old kero tho..

    Best possible solution to stuck rings is to pull the motor, and replace the stuck rings and any worn components that can and will cause you grief later. I strongly recommend to just rebuild the engine if the rings are stuck, it's the best possible outcome later when you're not stranded on the side of the road for "Reasons".

    This way you know that the engine is in good condition, all the bearings are good, there are no clogged oil passages, no stuck rings, no blown head gasket, no bad oil pump, etc.

  9. #17
    Member Shyzah's Avatar
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    Been busy working on body work for this car so I had a toyota dealership look over it for $98. I'm actually starting to believe that my engine is fine considering that this happened right after put everything back together. I even had Toyota master tec from the local Toyota dealership look over it and they said that the engine looks fine. They did a leak down test like I did and they said that it seems fine but they cannot guarantee anything since there was a coolant leak from the thermostat housing as well as that upper engine coolant hose towards the back. They wanted to charge extra to dig deeper so I denied. He too said that everything seems fine and if there was a slight head gasket crack or oil ring failure that it would not cause an entirely dead cylinder.

    Do any of you know if the firing order for a 6mge is two at a time or does it fire all injectors at once? I read somewhere on the forum that the 5m fires all at once. I am guessing it should be the same for the 6m but I just wanted to confirm.

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