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1985 Supra resuscitation

9K views 39 replies 10 participants last post by  Darrow 
#1 ·
My 85 Supra is done at the paint shop, there is new paint on the rear bumper cover, hatch and front left fender and flare, the rest has been restored, gotta love 80s paints.
Next is a bunch of mechanical stuff, mostly ''deferred maintenance '' , well i have to do that before i can cn be sure it was just that ;)
The final thing will be some interior work, not sure what or how far i will go with that
The car will stay stock apart from a cube shifter, maybe a strut brace.................................and a turbo ;)

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#5 ·
Cleaning and other Stuff

Had a happy weekend gently farting around after getting the car on Sat. The progress might seem a bit haphazard, but its simple, if i spend a whole day bent over a engine bay that low im probably not walking the next day ;)
Plenty of cleaning done along with; replaced the rear discs, pads and shocks. Changed diff oil, transmission mount. Pulled through brake fluid (after pic ;), clutch fluid, power steering fluid, dropped trans oil, new spark plugs, Ht leads, Cap & rotor, air filter. cleaned a bunch of grounds and various connectors that i came across along the way..................... The HT leads i took off where so old they had ''Toyota'' printed on them. Oddly enough the brake ''feel'' is way better now suprise suprise, the clutch fluid was nowhere near as bad. Land vehicle Vehicle Car Engine Auto part
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A couple more gentle days of service items and front end work and it will be ok to hoon around in, then the other non essential, essential stuff like speakers and air con i can mess with as and when.

Really surprised at the lack of rust, i had one that at 16 years old was so bad the tailgate needed duct tape 3 wide just to stay alive let alone dry :laugh:

.................oddly enough the to do list doesnt seem to get any shorter :laugh::laugh:
 
#9 ·
For the cube shifter I reccomend getting the SC300 'Z' shapped shifter. Don't get the Supra shifter. The block on the bottom of the cube shifer raises the shifter height and moves the shift knob forward. The SC300 unfortunately makes the leather boot sit strangly but keeps the shifter at the same height and moved the shift knob back a few inches.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for that, but unfortunately toooo late, i brought the shifter before the car rocked up (i also found a full set of brake pads in the back that i also pre brought FFS ) .............but what a difference!

im with you 100%, i was just thinking that, and taking a crumb of comfort from the fact that i was never going to be arms and legs right on the wheel and pedals anyways. lt needs to come back about 2". im going to speak to my metal Jedi and see if we can put a bend in it to drop it down and bring it back. Land vehicle Vehicle Car Center console Vehicle audio
 
#10 ·
Hey, welcome to the board? Where in BC are you? I'm in Mission myself. We do an awesome meet every August in Vernon called Run of the Ogopogo, you should come!

Curious where your car is from. There are very few Canadian originals left that could be considered good in the rust department. I highly recommend not leaving it outside :)
 
#16 · (Edited)
Got a fair bit done, loads more cleaning and a good waxing, rides way better with the new suspension , brakes etc etc. Really happy with how its coming along, as soon as ive done the timing belt, tensioner and various seals i will have a nice driver, still a shed load to do......................not including what i find along the way. The first two pics are the result of the orig paint being professionally cut polished, and then waxed by a amatur, not clear coated

Ext. Supra logo, FR mudflap, R B pillar trim, wheels refinish (back to stock), aerial, wipers refinish.

Int, Ign backlight, Fog light switch backlight, speakers x5, investigate climate control pump noise in arm rest, ashtray and glovebox/es lights. Dye back seat tops, refinish cruise and fog switches.

Mech, Timing belt etc, EGR syst clean, Vac lines check, electrical service, engine bay light, driveshaft support bearing, engine mounts, sway bar bushings etc etc, bonnet rubbers

Thats not bad.............................why do i think thats not it.................

Oh, i just remembered, air con.......and the fittings are still the screw type, oh joy ;)
 

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#19 · (Edited)
Electrical service.

l like to do this BEFORE i go looking for electrical gremlins (note to self ;), its surprising what issues can stem from poor earthing. l pull, soft wire brush and hit with electrical cleaner all earth straps, relays, fuses, battery terminals etc etc.

These are before and after earth straps and a live wire, the earth straps under the car where worse.

On old bikes for example i would pull apart every single connector block and clean, i pulled apart a couple of the weather proof connectors and they looked corrosion free. l am hesitant to do this to all of them as in most cases theres so little wire to play with, i dont want to go pulling and prying on 35yr old engine bay wiring unnessercery.
 

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#23 ·
Thanks, haven't done much in the past few days, waiting on a timing belt, tensioner, seals, pump and other goodies, so the closest im getting to driving is doing a ''Charlie Watts'', except i cannot even start it now, no thermostat LOL

Still haven't found any Bubba, but theres time. While sorting out the dead side lights i found a LED install, but to be fair, its too neat to be true Bub.

Its not the heat, that whole part of the province is a zoo in the summer and at it worst in the school holidays, but the urge to learn more about 1GZ swaps in the flesh may win.
 

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#21 ·
You doing anything with the faded door pink handles? Mine look the same even though the rest of the interior is almost perfect. Drives me crazy. I've tried Magic Erasers and a few interior cleaners/conditioners with minimal gains. Not sure if dye or paint is the next step as I haven't researched those much yet.
 
#22 ·
LMAO, ive been wondering that, the way most of the plastics have survived is pretty outstanding.....................................except; the door handles, the actual switch toggle part of the cruise and rear window heater, and the tip of the right stalk, not the whole lot, just the tip, that must have taken some doing ;)

lm going to swap out the switches as and when they come around, no idea with the handles, but i think painting some kind is probably the only option as for the stalk, i think i will leave that well alone. Before i mess with it im going to let a another Guy look at it as im thinking of having the seats dyed as the tops of the backs and sides of the fronts are pretty bleached , he might have some door handle ideas

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#24 ·
Button each side of the cluster can be taken apart and painted. BTDT. Good result.Think I used Krylon satin black. Have not done my door handles, but since they are black, I could use same receipe. Burgandy is harder to find. For blue, SEM have a great match.
 
#25 ·
hmmm yes, if Mike can get his v12 road worthy in time, we might be able to lure him up our way.

Vernon is MUCH better then Kelowna for traffic and general insanity in the summer. And the road to the ski mountain is almost always near deserted.
 
#27 ·
EGR Cleaning ....and other stuff

Pulled apart some of the intake and EGR systems today;

l was surprised how clean the intake was, ive only cleaned more recent engines and they have been way way worse ( 05 Hemi Jeep, 05 GX470) Auto part Motor vehicle Fuel line Vehicle Engine
. l cleaned both sides and the back of the intake with carb cleaner, soft brush and rags, i had a feel before hand and it wasnt much.

Some bits came in so i changed the thermostat and passenger side engine mount.

l also cleaned some of the EGR system using Driftins guide

https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/...em-(56k-beware)&highlight=clean+throttle+body

l did not strip the entire system, i did the plenum channels from the top and end as per the guide, the top hole was maybe 1/4 blocked and the horizontal channel not much, it came off with carb cleaner. l replaced the cotton filters as well.

The results were impressive, the idle used to fluctuate between 700 and 900rpm and a lot, now steady as.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-su2XfS5BM&feature=youtu.be

Next, the timing belt and the ''rest of the band'', really looking forward to the motor with a serviceable tensioner bearing.
 
#28 ·
Did you check if the PCV system was working? The port on the TB for it might just be plugged, hence how clean it is. The EGR dumps behind the the TB, but the PCV can gum up that plate... when its working.

Either way I'd say someone has cleaned it recently
 
#29 ·
Thanks for the heads up!
To be honest, i did a search found it didn't have a PCV valve, being it now idles great i called that job good.....................

ls the hose in the first picture i one that needs checking? The vac lines are very supple, but ive got a good idea of what will happen when i start yanking on them.

Also, is there anything supposed to go on where i'm pointing in the second pic?

Thankyouverymuch

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#32 ·
Timing belt, the easy way

Finally got the correct metric bolts to adapt my puller to get the crank pulley off safely. Replaced the timing belt, tensioner, spring, cam seals, crank seal, water pump, fan etc .

lt is not necessary to remove the rocker cover and all that performance.

line the cam pulleys up as you would, then tipex on the belt lined up with the dots on the cam gears, then put a line on the timing pulley and belt at around the 9 oclock.

Slip the belt off and copy the marks onto the new belt, you will want 25 ridges between the cam marks and 66 ridges from the left cam mark to the pulley mark.

Then reinstall lining up your tip ex marks, and reassemble as normal. This isnt my idea, its a Ducati trick, but it works none the less.

Also managed to lower the idle speed after it went up following a through cleaning.

Tomorrow insurance and a nice long drive............................................
 

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#33 ·
The rocker cover? You mean the valve cover? That isn't necessary if you've set the cams in the right spot before taking the belt off. Its actually dead simple, you just pull spark plug number one, and rotate the crank till its at 0 deg on the lower cover before you remove the pulley, and piston #1 is at TDC. Done, no extra marks necessary.
 
#34 ·
No i meant rocker cover, i speak English not colonial, what you call rockers are correctly in the civilized world known as sills. l apologize for showing another method that works fine safely and simply on this as well as my GX470 and Bikes, i was trying to share some experience, i have now learned my lesson several times and will not bother you again. ..........and you actually wonder why your forum is dead.
 
#36 ·
I think there is a case of "over-reaction" here.
SupraFiend was just trying to use the words that are commonly used in this forum to describe the part. I would have given the same remarks.
You are welcome to stay and update this tread about your work on this car.
 
#38 ·
Sills.... still nope, here in Southern BC, most of North America, and Japan, we refer to those as valve covers....

Jeeze dude, you really offend easy. Our forum is suffering from the Facebook groups splintering the membership, like just about every other car forum currently.

The factory manual is online btw, I was simply quoting the way to do it as designed by the engineers who built the car...
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/

There are certainly cars out there that don't have proper markings and make a simple timing belt job excessively complex and your method would work well on them. Ours just isn't one of them, and I simply pointed it out.
 
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