Manual idle adjustment

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\r\n Manual idle adjustment\r\n

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\r\n l thought my idle was fine on my 85 until i cleaned the intake, EGR system and took it for its ltalian tune up, cam home and it was 1100rpm idle and 1600rpm cold start the next day. l looked around for instructions and could find any (no that hidden screw didn\'t change anything)
\r\nl played around with the linkages and it changed nothing.......................then i found these 2 grub screws and captive nuts. Apologies for lack of accurate direction as it was on going (yellow arrows point).
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\r\n1. Car wants to be proper warm.
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\r\n2, loosen both lock nuts
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\r\n3, leaving the engine running fiddle with the screws, i cannot remember which way is up or down, but YOU HAVE TO MOVE BOTH SCREWS to get a change.
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\r\n4, When you have blipped the throttle a few times and are happy with the rpm, tighten the locknuts. When you do this it WILL alter the RPM, you have to \'load\' the screw, a bit like tappets on old cars and bikes.
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\r\nl did this a while ago and now it starts cold at 1300rpm and idles at 800rpm\r\n
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    \r\n Sounds like the passage on the TB from the valve cover is clogged. That hidden screw should have adjusted the idle.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1312943] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by williamb82\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Sounds like the passage on the TB from the valve cover is clogged. That hidden screw should have adjusted the idle.
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    lt isnt, that much i do know.
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    \n....................i do way more reading than posting and that screw subject is bordering on a oil subject, but since you opened the door.
    \n OK lts not a true idle adjustment screw, more a \'air screw\'. Yes it can effect the idle, but not in correct way. This is the route ive gone down and are happy with the results.
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    \nHere is some concise information from a source with more post count than me that may resonate better with you. This is according to \'Hoppyjim,\' Jim Hopkins an authority on Toyotas ;
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    \nOn ALL Cressidas, Supras, etc., with an electronic idle speed control
    \n(ISC) motor, the air passage adjusting screw in the throttle body must
    \nbe turned in fully clockwise, seating the screw and completely closing
    \noff the air passage around the throttle plate.
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    \nThis idle air passage and adjustment is used to set the idle speed on
    \nengines that do NOT have an electronic idle speed control motor. It
    \nserves no function on engines with an idle speed control, as it only
    \nparallels the air passage regulated by the idle speed control (ISC).
    \nThe useless screw, and it\'s air passage around the throttle plate was
    \neventually deleted from later throttle bodies (it is not found on
    \n7M-GE models), because it is redundant. If you back out the idle speed
    \nadjusting screw in the throttle body on your Cressida with a computer
    \ncontrolled idle speed, you will open the air passage, which will act
    \njust like a throttle plate that sticks a little further open and lets
    \nmore air into the engine. If this screw is backed out, there will be a
    \nparallel air path created around the throttle plate and the idle speed
    \ncontroller.
    \n
    \nIf you back the screw out a little the computer may be able to
    \ncompensate for the additional air by closing the idle speed controller
    \ndown a little. However, if you back the screw out too far, and open
    \nthe air passage far enough the idle speed control (ISC) will be forced
    \nclose down completely in an attempt to adjust the idle speed, and
    \nreduce it down to the target value. If you back out the screw even
    \nfurther, the engine will then idle faster than the computer\'s
    \nprogrammed idle speed, but the idle speed control will be unable to
    \nreduce the idle speed further. If you stay within the idle speed
    \ncontrol\'s range of compensation, the system can usually overcome the
    \nidle air leak you have created. However, you will have only succeeded
    \nin forcing the computer controlled automatic idle speed control (ISC)
    \nto drop a couple of notches further closed to compensate for the
    \nadditional air leak. Unfortunately, this compensation will only occur
    \nwhen the engine has warmed up a little, and as long as the idle speed
    \ncontrol is functioning is in closed loop.
    \n
    \nHowever, at start up when the idle speed control reverts to it\'s full
    \nopen (default) position, the car may be harder to start, as more air
    \nwill enter the engine leaning out the cold start injector\'s initial
    \nsquirt of fuel. At start up the engine will also initially idle much
    \nfaster wasting fuel, making the initial fan noise at start up even
    \nmore pronounced. The faster initial idle RPM at start up will also
    \nincrease engine wear as there is already an inherent lack of
    \nlubrication on initial start up.
    \n
    \nAs well, the higher idle RPM at start up will increase shift shock
    \nwhen "D" or "R" is engaged after initial start up. Even the "anti
    \nsquat" feature of the automatic transmission, which momentarily
    \nengages second gear when the brake pedal is depressed, and the shifter
    \nis moved from "N" to "D" may not be able to cope with the additional
    \ncold engine RPM caused by the air leak in the throttle body. The
    \ncomputer and the idle speed control will do it\'s best to conceal an
    \nidle speed passage that has been caused to leak by inadvertently
    \nunscrewing it, but the system can only do so much to remedy the
    \nsituation.
    \n
    \nI have heard countless tales of how mechanics discovered this amazing
    \nsecret throttle body screw that the engineers apparently overlooked,
    \nand all the magic it can do. Forget it! Any benefit is hogwash. On
    \ncars with an ISC, turn the idle screw all the way in where it was
    \noriginally set at the factory, and leave it alone. If there is an idle
    \nspeed control screw on your Cressida\'s throttle body, be sure that it
    \nis fully seated, then ignore it, as it serves no purpose.
    \n
    \nWith a warm engine, when the screw is initially backed out, the engine
    \nwill idle slightly faster, until the computer closes the idle speed
    \ncontroller down to compensate for the increase in idle speed. When the
    \nscrew is initially turned inward, the engine will idle a little slower
    \nuntil the computer responds and opens the idle speed controller to
    \ncompensate for the decrease in idle speed. There is a second or so of
    \ncomputer response time delay to prevent the engine idle RPM from
    \naimlessly cycling up and down, hunting for the exact target idle
    \nspeed. Do not mistake this time delay, or lag in computer response
    \ntime for any real RPM change that turning the idle screw may have made
    \nto hot idle speed.
    \n
    \nThe engine computer will control the idle speed. These engines are
    \nvery frustrating as they are so well engineered that there is no Holy
    \nGrail of that little screw that only needs part of a turn to make your
    \ncar perform better. There is no mention in any repair manual of ever
    \ntampering in any way with this screw. Don\'t mess with a good design.
    \nMake it run as the engineers designed it to run, and it will run very
    \nwell indeed.
    \n
    \nJIM HOPKINS\r\n
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    \r\n \r\n Last edited by anyoldiron; 06-25-2019 at 05:42 PM.\r\n \r\n \r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1312961] = '\r\n
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    \r\n He confirmed it will adjust the idle in that long diatribe. It may not be the recommended method, but it does the exact same thing as what you did, as technically, after adjusting those screws, you now need to re-calibrate the TPS, which puts you right back at square one. So backing the screw out to mimic a throttle plate that is further open(which is stated in what you posted), or adjusting the throttle stop to actually hold the throttle plate further open as you did, does the exact same thing, and has the exact same end result. You just went about it a more difficult way.The ECU is still going to try to compensate for the raised idle by shutting the IASCV further to lower the idle speed, until you have opened it enough that even with the IASCV fully closed, the idle will stay above the RPM the ECU tries to meet.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1313045] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by williamb82\r\n View Post\r\n
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    He confirmed it will adjust the idle in that long diatribe. It may not be the recommended method, but it does the exact same thing as what you did, as technically, after adjusting those screws, you now need to re-calibrate the TPS, which puts you right back at square one. So backing the screw out to mimic a throttle plate that is further open(which is stated in what you posted), or adjusting the throttle stop to actually hold the throttle plate further open as you did, does the exact same thing, and has the exact same end result. You just went about it a more difficult way.The ECU is still going to try to compensate for the raised idle by shutting the IASCV further to lower the idle speed, until you have opened it enough that even with the IASCV fully closed, the idle will stay above the RPM the ECU tries to meet.
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    Bollocks, my way is telling the engine what to do, your way is trying to tell the engine how to do it. its really as simple as that. Otherwise the thing would not be running right would it. You are really trying to tell me that adjusting the air mix and adjusting the throttle is the same.........LMAO
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    \nAnyway, have at it, im done........................the cars just about finished and trying to contribute to this forum is like pissing into the wind.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1313189] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Adjusting the air mix? You do realize the throttle body is NOT a carburetor right? It doesn\'t change the air mix at all to adjust that screw, as it is still ingesting the same air that has been metered by the maf. So whether the throttle plate is cracked further open, or that bypass screw is backed out to allow air to circumvent the throttle plate, it does the SAME EXACT THING! I know you made this post trying to be helpful and sound smarter than everyone else, but you have failed miserably. You went around your ass to scratch your elbow!
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by anyoldiron\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Bollocks, my way is telling the engine what to do, your way is trying to tell the engine how to do it. its really as simple as that. Otherwise the thing would not be running right would it. You are really trying to tell me that adjusting the air mix and adjusting the throttle is the same.........LMAO
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    \nAnyway, have at it, im done........................the cars just about finished and trying to contribute to this forum is like pissing into the wind.
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  • \r\n'; pd[1313143] = '\r\n
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    \r\n So for someone who does not know much about the throttle body and linkage, what are the functions of these two adjustments?
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    \nI had a quick look and from what I can see, the lower stop is for a dashpot that slows the throttle closing after closing the throttle.
    \nIs the upper adjustment there to act as a linkage stop to prevent twisting of the throttle shaft? Is there an actually throttle blade stop in the throttle body itself? I can\'t find any adjustment information in the TSRM so I would perhaps naively assume that you make sure the throttle blade stop and the linkage stop are adjusted so that they stop at the same point. Or is this the only throttle blade stop present?
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    \nI\'m agnostic here. I don\'t know enough about the throttle body to add anything to the discussion. I\'m just trying to understand what is being discussed.
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    1. #1
      Member anyoldiron's Avatar
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      Mar 2019
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      55

      Manual idle adjustment

      l thought my idle was fine on my 85 until i cleaned the intake, EGR system and took it for its ltalian tune up, cam home and it was 1100rpm idle and 1600rpm cold start the next day. l looked around for instructions and could find any (no that hidden screw didn't change anything)
      l played around with the linkages and it changed nothing.......................then i found these 2 grub screws and captive nuts. Apologies for lack of accurate direction as it was on going (yellow arrows point).

      1. Car wants to be proper warm.

      2, loosen both lock nuts

      3, leaving the engine running fiddle with the screws, i cannot remember which way is up or down, but YOU HAVE TO MOVE BOTH SCREWS to get a change.

      4, When you have blipped the throttle a few times and are happy with the rpm, tighten the locknuts. When you do this it WILL alter the RPM, you have to 'load' the screw, a bit like tappets on old cars and bikes.

      l did this a while ago and now it starts cold at 1300rpm and idles at 800rpm
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