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  1. #1
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    New member

    Hey guys, my name is Sam, and I bought an '85 Supra a few weeks ago so I figured I should jump on a forum for the help I'm going to inevitably need.

    A bit of info on the car: hit 300 000kms on the drive home from buying it, and mechanically it seems pretty solid. 5-speed manual seems to shift fine. Body is not the best; about 2 feet of the rockers on each side are going to need to be cut out and have new metal welded back in, as well as the same area behind the wheel (basically everywhere around the wheel well, but the wheel wells themselves seem fine, if what I'm saying makes any sense). The rest of the body seems structurally fine, though, but there are a lot of paint chips from the mileage, as well as some paint imperfections, but no rust on the rest of the body. Under the car is fine; just the rockers and behind the rear wheels.

    It does need some immediate attention, such as the rust, as well two wheel bearings, brake rotors, and the differential may need to be replaced. It whined a bit on the drive home, so I parked it and haven't driven it since, so I still need to look into it. Suspension is also pretty soft, but that isn't a priority at the moment.

    I'm pretty sure that covers most of the car. I'm honestly pretty new to Toyota's (this was absolutely an impulse purchase, I'm 18 and had nothing better to spend my money on) so I'm probably going to ask redundant or stupid questions, so any suggestions will be much appreciated.

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  3. #2
    CelicaSupra.com Member racefanfoster's Avatar
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    " I'm honestly pretty new to Toyota's (this was absolutely an impulse purchase, I'm 18 and had nothing better to spend my money on) so I'm probably going to ask redundant or stupid questions, so any suggestions will be much appreciated"
    LMAO

  4. #3
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
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    Welcome! Now that you admit you can't resist instant gratification, you'll definitely need to learn patience when it comes to repairs. First thing you need to do is use the search function and read through all the posts by a fellow named Seamus (username SupraFiend) that contain references to "rust". He is the guru and has posted the most detailed and helpful information about rust repair on these old mk2 Supras.
    Phil D.
    85 Silver 6m-gte, completed 2000

    "I always observe the speed limit. I see those DAMNED signs everywhere."

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  6. #4
    CelicaSupra.com Member supkar's Avatar
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    Change the diff lube, use synthetic to extend the life of it.
    83-Red P-type , 6M,. LJM strut-bar, RC intake,Thorley header,Tenzo 17" wheels, cross-drilled rotors, Eibach springs, KYB shocks, 85 hatch and int., 82 header panel=Frankenkar

    87 4 Runner, White, 22RE, 302K on original motor, still strong

    "This car is so loud , I heard you before I saw you!" said the nice policeman. Hidden Content

  7. #5
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Welcome Sam.... in addition to the mountain of experienced info available on the site... the 1ST thing I did was get a Haynes Do it yourself manual... was essential for someone like me who never actually took any shop courses... I also have the Official Toyota Technicians manual...

    Helpful to have both sometimes...

    Anyway, pretty much anything that's EVER been done to these cars have been written up & annotated with pics... so enjoy...

    Cheers,
    Dave Cod The Black Supra Man TONS of used 84/83 parts F/S

    Dk Blue 84 P-type Virginia car converted to Stick,1 Stock Two tone '85 P-type also US origin), 1 to be Turbo'd at some point!!! Have a 53 ft Trailer that I've converted to a 6000 cu ft 84/85 Supra parts Warehouse....Lots of Parts F/S

  8. #6
    Junior Member
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    Okay, thanks guys. I’ve been doing a little reading since my last post and there’s some great info on here regarding what I need to do for that car.

  9. #7
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    ....+ ONE on the Haynes manual.
    Also,this can be helpful:
    http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...2/default.aspx
    The differentials are hard to find. My previous ones were loud screamers! My third one is tolerable.4.10 LSD.
    Be prepared to spend to spend $100-$300+ shipping. Location?
    Redline differential gear oil is MAGIC!Works for transmissions as well.
    https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-5030...MNXW88MWBS5WNP
    You will need (2). + additive,I think.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

  10. #8
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    Currently located in Southern Alberta, in the Calgary area. Turns out I'm gonna need to do a lot more to it than I anticipated. I finished up the wheel bearings and did the brakes/rotors as well, and turns out the diff will indeed need to be replaced. So I just replaced the pinion seal which stopped the leak, and I took it for a bit of a cruise (give or take 200km). The clutch slips badly in high gear at lower rpm's (usually if I'm in town at a 50km/h zone in 4th and I accelerate, it'll slip), so I'm going to need to replace the clutch ASAP. Also on that cruise, I saw my oil level had dropped noticeably. Given it sat for around 10 years according to the previous owner, I'm going to assume the rubber just dried up and turned to crap. I'm considering one of three things for this car: full engine rebuild and leave stock, full engine rebuild and do some aftermarket (maybe turbo? I doubt it), or a different engine swap altogether.

    Keep in mind that this won't be a daily; I expect that portion of the project to take several months so I'm not really going to rush it. Alberta only really gets 4 months that are nice and sunny so as soon as the snow hits, I'm probably going to get to work on it. With my Haynes manual, of course

    But in all seriousness, does any of that seem realistic? Since the clutch NEEDS to be replaced, I figured I'd just do it all at the same time. As always, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

  11. #9
    CelicaSupra.com Member RedP85's Avatar
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    Going turbo you are looking to keep working on it, because it is addictive, and you'll be pushing it until it breaks again. Rebuilding the 5M is enough to be crusing around for some time. The 2JZGE is a swap for long term reliability.
    There is some exception, but most of the time, swaps reduce car value.
    Doing it all at once is a very option if you have the workshop for.
    -Jocelyn,
    P85-6MGE SDR(HKS kit c/w IC and F-Con in a box) 225KKm, NAL seats, 2.5 Brullen, ACT clutch, LJM, SS lines, Trip Computer. EuroH4
    P85-5MGE SDR had 439KKm (for 17 years my daily driver, RIP...), 2002 E39 ///M5 LMB Hidden Content
    Hidden Content Hidden Content

  12. #10
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    300 KM'S on the engine? Yeah,it's tired and it leaks a lot of oil.Mine did and it was DONE. I found a rebuilt 5-MGE for $1,500,delivered.I was lucky!
    At least the clutch MUST be replaced.
    If you pull the engine and transmission as an assembly,Jack up the back and LOWER the front to the control arms.

    Do a decent job of an engine wash beforehand. DO NOT DAMAGE THE HEATER CORE nipples! I wired in a few 2 X 4's to prevent damaging that (PITA )part to replace/repair.
    You may do the rebuild solo,or truck it to your chosen machine shop for new parts.Do the research on parts availability.Bearings,rings,pistons and more.Gasket set(S).Metal head gasket and NO oil pan gasket. Use Ultra Grey by Permatex.(I did mine twice and it didn't stop leaking)

    You have choices to make.

    Stock engine is OK,with a few intake mods. I don't like headers at all.(That's just me)

    Me? I'd pull it all out and wash it all again,pull the trans off and ship it to your machine shop for a rebuild.Stash your car out of the way and(work on the body), wait for the machine shop to call you.Buy the clutch last.Machine the flywheel at the same shop.Change the gear oil in the diff B-4 considering a (Hard to find) replacement.
    Does this advice sound crazy?

    OOPS. https://imgur.com/W59pySo
    Last edited by ddd228; 07-10-2019 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Sideways engine.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

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