Overheating Issue.

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  1. #1
    Junior Member Bear Woods's Avatar
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    Overheating Issue.

    Hello,

    I recently just purchased my first MK2 Supra it had been sitting for a few years but still taken care of just wasn't driven a lot, on my way home from picking it up the car overheated after about 10-15 minutes of driving. The coolant overflow tank started to poor out and the coolant in the radiator looks pretty disgusting, doesn't look like it was changed in a while. I ended up having to get it towed back home 2 hour drive from where i purchased it. I purchased a Thermostat and plan on doing a Coolant flush tonight to see if that solves the problem as the Coolant was basically brown.

    I can start the car when its cold and maybe drive for 10 Minutes before the car starts to climb up past the half way mark and it overheats.

    After i swap the Thermostat and the Coolant what other things should i be looking at?
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  3. #2
    CelicaSupra.com Member Zerodrag's Avatar
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    Does your engine oil have any gunk that looks milky white in it (maybe can see on the dipstick)? If not, check the areas of the radiator to see if there are any cool spots. Could be a sign of blockage, I believe. If you have milky white stuff in the oil, it's also not a good sign as many here may tell you.

    Also, make sure radiator cap is functioning/opening correctly.

  4. #3
    CelicaSupra.com Member AJ's Avatar
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    Might be worth pressure testing the coolant system first, check for leaks, loose hose clamps...

    Replace radiator cap with correct PSI/KG rating.

    Any signs of leakage on the water pump, from the gasket itself or the weep hole under the fan shaft

    Fan clutch could be bad as well.

    How many miles on the engine, past owner know of any issues? If unknown how many miles on the water pump might be time well spent replacing now...
    Regards,
    Arch
    '86 Supra MA67
    Brullen 2.5" Exhaust, HKS Fly w/7MGE clutch,ST Springs, RC Intake & TB, 2.8GT & XX emblems, Factory Add on Rear Shoulder belts, Pioneer DEH-P2000 AM/FM/CD w/CDS-P5000 CD Player, Compomotive CXNs 8x16

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  6. #4
    CelicaSupra.com Member RedP85's Avatar
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    A good place to look for the milky oil is underthe oil filler cap.
    I'll say it : there is signs of a blown headgasket.

    SupraFiend is not far from you, and he knows his Supra.
    -Jocelyn,
    P85-6MGE SDR(HKS kit c/w IC and F-Con in a box) 225KKm, NAL seats, 2.5 Brullen, ACT clutch, LJM, SS lines, Trip Computer. EuroH4
    P85-5MGE SDR had 439KKm (for 17 years my daily driver, RIP...), 2002 E39 ///M5 LMB Hidden Content
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  7. #5
    CelicaSupra.com Member supkar's Avatar
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    Buy a new radiator----the car is probably worth it. Flush the system first to avoid gunking up said rad. Hope it's not a BHG
    83-Red P-type , 6M,. LJM strut-bar, RC intake,Thorley header,Tenzo 17" wheels, cross-drilled rotors, Eibach springs, KYB shocks, 85 hatch and int., 82 header panel=Frankenkar

    87 4 Runner, White, 22RE, 302K on original motor, still strong

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  8. #6
    CelicaSupra.com Member '82supra's Avatar
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    ^ what he said...you'll spend more time and money chasing gremlins wishing you had purchased a rad in the first place.
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  9. #7
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    AGREED. It is so gunked up,I wouldn't try to flush it out.
    Flush it out a little(Thermostat OUT) and then when the WATER runs clear,replace the radiator and thermostat.
    There will be cast iron particles at the bottom of the radiator and stuck in the tubes.

    You will see when you compare the weight of the old to the new one.

    One more tip:
    Our cooling systems are difficult to get all of the air bubbles out.A very bad condition.
    The rear heater hose is the best place to put in a purge device.A garden hose fitting works well to BURP the system.
    By the firewall.https://imgur.com/sV1eiok
    Park the car facing steeply uphill and rev the engine a LOT to purge the cooling system bubble.
    The radiator fill will gush out like a fire hose,just when the thermostat opens!Be ready for it.
    I use a small cone to do mine.
    There are specialized tools for this.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spill-Proof...21f69641fe00f2
    Slick tool to NOT make a mess.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
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  10. #8
    CelicaSupra.com Member AJ's Avatar
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    I got one from Napa lots of adapter for many many applications!!

    "The radiator fill will gush out like a fire hose,just when the thermostat opens!Be ready for it.
    I use a small cone to do mine.
    There are specialized tools for this."
    Regards,
    Arch
    '86 Supra MA67
    Brullen 2.5" Exhaust, HKS Fly w/7MGE clutch,ST Springs, RC Intake & TB, 2.8GT & XX emblems, Factory Add on Rear Shoulder belts, Pioneer DEH-P2000 AM/FM/CD w/CDS-P5000 CD Player, Compomotive CXNs 8x16

  11. #9
    CelicaSupra.com Member Khlause's Avatar
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    @ OP, The problem you're having could very well be built up rust inside the iron block; there is a way to handle it and if you're curious what I have done to remedy please read on.


    Before we begin this adventure of cleaning your block out lets preface this with you are going down this road because you have done all of the following.

    1. You have made certain your thermostat is not stuck or clogged.
    2. You have made certain your radiator flows liquid and is not 100% clogged.
    3. You have made certain your water pump is working.
    4. You have made certain your cooling fan is working.

    Now we can continue.


    I just went though this with my Toyota Pickup, 24 years of use and never did a coolant system "flush" and roughly 20 years ago I ran it for a while with out actual proper coolant and instead just old hose water..

    As a result the Iron block was full of crud.

    Last week end I went to Tri-cities where it's kinda warm, roughly 98F to 110F right now on average this time of year..

    As a result I discovered my coolant system was just not up to the task and I overheated my engine a few times. I did purchase a new Radiator and that PARTLY solved the problem, but the biggest issue was all the crud in the engine block.

    first I used the prestone coolant flush but this did not really do as well as I expected, sure it cleared things a little but it was still really bad.

    Next I used a product that the label says only keep in the engine for 12 min, this was a product by Irontite that they call Thoro-Flush; it worked just OK. for removing some of the rust, but still there was a lot of rust and the engine was still getting hot.

    At this point I was pinched for time and needed a solution.. I needed something to remove 20+ years worth of built up rust...

    What I ended up getting was THERMOCURE by the Evaporust company.. I have used their original Evaporust product before and was very impressed with it's function on body work because it only attacks the rust and no other metal or material as I can tell.

    I am telling you 100% that Thermocure works, but I want you to know that before you use this stuff it's slow, by meaning it takes roughly 6 hours of run time to actually clean the block out..

    This stuff does not "break up" the rush but actually puts it into liquid solution; as a result you do not end up with a radiator full of crud or a heater core that's packed solid full of crud..



    The best way I have found to do this is the following.

    Drain and fill the coolant system with distilled water, get things up to close to standard operating temp then remove roughly 1 QT of the water from the system and add the Thermocure.



    Based on the Toyota Celica-Supra coolant system you should only need 3/4 of the 1 QT container. You can dump the whole thing in if you like but extra product will not improve things faster or better.


    Close the system and run the engine for a few min; shut the engine down before you overheat.

    Allow the system to cool and start and run again but do not allow the engine to overheat.

    Repeat this as frequently as you can to the point where the engine is no longer overheating.

    Once you get to a point where the system is no longer overheating (because of built up rust) then run the engine for 5 or 6 hours and allow it to cool.

    Drain the system. You will see that the fluid coming from your engine is very very dark, almost black; do not be alarmed this is the chemical with previously oxidized iron in solution.

    Fill the system with distilled water, run this for 10 to 15 min and drain.

    Fill the system again with distilled water and run for 10 to 15 min and drain.

    Fill the system again with clean engine coolant. DO NOT USE DEX-COOL type engine coolant; what ever you do do not use DEX COOL, you will create a real problem for your self; Toyota has very clearly articulated that their engines should not use that type coolant. In the USA / Canada Toyota uses a G5 type coolant in their modern products, this includes engines with iron blocks with aluminum heads like the slightly older 4.7 Tundra. The G5 Coolant are HOAT type coolants, they are very good. You can also very much use the old green engine coolants, just make sure to change them more regularly because they can play monkey games with the inside of your aluminum head due to the PH levels changing faster as a result of time, thus turning the inside of your engine into a battery that erodes the aluminum parts internally.


    100% of what I just said is only if your system is overheating due to rust, and not one of many other problem areas discussed above by the other posters.

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