1984 p type resto

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  1. #1

    1984 p type resto

    Hello new to the forums! Somewhat have been lurking for a while but finally decided it was time to make an account.

    I am the new owner of a 1984 p type that has been sitting since 2003, bought it with intents of using the w58 in my 1985 celica. Upon purchasing the non running supra, I have since fell in love with the car and have successfully made the car run after a very long tank cleaning process and fuel filter change, new plugs, new oil & filter, new gear oil for the w58. But of course the 5mge wouldn't make it that easy on me, lots of smoke at start up and when the engine is under load.

    My first thoughts were headgasket but oil was fine when changed and can't visibly see any milkiness in the cam towers under the oil cap. So my next assumption was shot rings so after a quick compression test I came up with an average of 130-150 psi on all 6 cylinders. Which for 170k 5mge I would say thats not too bad at all.

    So the only plausible scenario I can determine is the valve stem seals being dryrotted and allowing oil into the combustion chambers. Luckily the car came with a haynes manual and I'm pretty sure I could accomplish a change out.

    But with my inexperience dealing with old dohc toyota engines, I am here for advice on what I should do next? The car does now start and run okay, but has intermittent spells where it will die and not want to start back which i haven't checked the rotor in the distributor and I'm sure i have a dumb ammount of vaccum leaks. But upon tearing into the head i plan on doing the timing belt with the valve stem seals. But debating on any other preventive maintenance while I'm there?

    If you were in my shoes what would you do? & any other issues i should be expecting soon out of a dormant p type waiting to ruin any of my plans of having a retro daily driver?

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  3. #2
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Fort Worth, TX
    You're on the right track. At this age, the engine really needs to be gone through so I'd plan on just going ahead and pulling the motor. I'm sure besides the valve stem seals it leaks like a sieve from everywhere else too so a full gasket set is probably in order. But I like the logic of getting it running as good as you can (i.e. a tuneup) BEFORE pulling the motor. Track down the vacuum leaks, clean the plugs or replace them, replace the plug wires, cap and rotor as necessary, set the timing, get the injectors cleaned and the cold start injector working again, etc. Reason for doing all this first is that once you put the motor back in and it continues to have problems or maybe even different symptoms, you don't know where to look. Did you do something wrong in the process or is is still the same problem as before but the symptoms are different because now the engine is fresh. If you get everything functioning before you pull the motor and then have issues after reinstalling, then you know it has to be something you did or didn't do and really cuts down the diagnostic time. Also, you'd hate to spend a fortune going through the motor only to reinstall and find that you still have some other very expensive problem to fix and now you're way over budget. That's what I would do.
    Phil D.
    85 Silver 6m-gte, completed 2000

    "I always observe the speed limit. I see those DAMNED signs everywhere."

  4. #3
    Thanks pdupp, I appreciate the input and I do plan on replacing everything, especially cleaning the injectors which I will have to do some thread digging to find the best remedy to doing so.

    I guess I'm just in between continuing to fix things and get it running as well as possible or going ahead and tackling the valve seals now or like you said just wait and do all that when I have the funds together to afford a full rebuild of the 5m. I really like your logic of ruling out any problems early on by replacing everything that may need it before tearing deeply into the engine

    Also thought about studding the head when its off but from what I read the new toyota head bolts keep the gasket intact pretty well unless boost is a factor, but i might be just a little unnecessarily cautious in the manor. Any other advice you may thing i need i am open to offers!

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  6. #4
    Junior Member kovaa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    hi there

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