Mx72 Cressdia wagon 1JZ build

[wagzilla]

Hi there Vary nice job, Just got done reading the whole build, I'm not much for words, I'm building my mk2 right now with a 2jzgte vvti, I have a lot to learn. what was the hardest part for you?

thanks for sharing, Pm me sometime??

James

[ToyodaSup]

Thanks! Its a blast to drive!

Does anyone know if ae86 rear arms are the same length at the mx72 control arms? Also thought about just using ae86 poly bushings but I don't know if the diameters are the same. Guess and test maybe?

I am pretty sure you can buy the bushings for the four links and press them in the arms. Try Rock Auto. It is also possible to pour your own poly mix to rebuild what you have. The T3 arms are convenient because they are easily adjustable which is what you will need with a Mk1 Axle because the four link mounts are not the same as the MX72 axle housing.

If you are interested in a Mk1 axle PM me.

[SupraFiend]

Hey! Wow, awesome build, so glad you decided to join and post this.

Lots of comments, I'm going to forget some though.

Sucks about the battery rust on your car, that shit is hard to fix. I have a thread on how I go about it if you get ambitious. Lots of cutting and grinding.

Hey, curious about the air intake manifold on these motors. I've actually driven a mk2 Supra with this motor like a decade ago (it put down about 280rwhp btw with a similar aftermarket IC and exhaust setup, but manual), but I've never really looked at that airbox system above the turbo this close before. What all is the point of it? I see they are dumping the recirc valve output back into it, and what looks like the idle air valve source (though this should be a DBW TB setup and not need that, so maybe its PCV?), and I see some sensors, probably air temp and all. But what else is the point? Most turbo motors don't have a thing like that.

Thats great news about the bomb proof mount working. I actually need to go the opposite direction. My tacoma is tranny slapping like crazy and everyone says not to run the bomb proof mounts on a street driven 4 banger. I couldn't find any poly 2rz/3rz mounts online, but the GM transmission mounts we use on M motors looked awfully similar to me so I figured I'd try a set of those next.

Yeah as you know, stock brakes and stock rear end won't last long. Buy his /|\ mk1 axel, its the simplest way to go. But rear calipers are problematic on those now (supply). Toyota 8.8 truck axel is an option too.

[Deanfun]

I'll echo Seamus' comments - welcome and thanks for bringing your build here. Great writeup and pictures... you make it look easy.

[SilverMk2]

I wouldn't waste my time on the mk1 rear end. Too costly for what you get. If look at a Ford 8.8 from a 90s exploder.

[Suppra87]

Hi there Vary nice job, Just got done reading the whole build, I'm not much for words, I'm building my mk2 right now with a 2jzgte vvti, I have a lot to learn. what was the hardest part for you?

thanks for sharing, Pm me sometime??

James

Thanks for the interest. I really like doing these type of swaps. The hardest part for me was gathering the motivation to tackle the tedious parts like extending the wiring.

I am pretty sure you can buy the bushings for the four links and press them in the arms. Try Rock Auto. It is also possible to pour your own poly mix to rebuild what you have. The T3 arms are convenient because they are easily adjustable which is what you will need with a Mk1 Axle because the four link mounts are not the same as the MX72 axle housing.

If you are interested in a Mk1 axle PM me.

Ive seen polyurethane bushing for sale on eBay for AE86 4 links but I would like to be sure the bushing diameter and bolt sleeve diameter will match the MX72 rear links. That's going to be the most economical options. Ive considered the poly mix and pour but Id prefer a longer term solution. Ill have to keep you posted on the MK1 axle interest. Part of me wants to go that route for the ease of the swap but my fabricator side says I can figure out a stronger, cheaper, and more readily available solution...much more work but that's never scared me.

Hey! Wow, awesome build, so glad you decided to join and post this.

Lots of comments, I'm going to forget some though.

Sucks about the battery rust on your car, that shit is hard to fix. I have a thread on how I go about it if you get ambitious. Lots of cutting and grinding.

Hey, curious about the air intake manifold on these motors. I've actually driven a mk2 Supra with this motor like a decade ago (it put down about 280rwhp btw with a similar aftermarket IC and exhaust setup, but manual), but I've never really looked at that airbox system above the turbo this close before. What all is the point of it? I see they are dumping the recirc valve output back into it, and what looks like the idle air valve source (though this should be a DBW TB setup and not need that, so maybe its PCV?), and I see some sensors, probably air temp and all. But what else is the point? Most turbo motors don't have a thing like that.

Thats great news about the bomb proof mount working. I actually need to go the opposite direction. My tacoma is tranny slapping like crazy and everyone says not to run the bomb proof mounts on a street driven 4 banger. I couldn't find any poly 2rz/3rz mounts online, but the GM transmission mounts we use on M motors looked awfully similar to me so I figured I'd try a set of those next.

Yeah as you know, stock brakes and stock rear end won't last long. Buy his /|\ mk1 axel, its the simplest way to go. But rear calipers are problematic on those now (supply). Toyota 8.8 truck axel is an option too.

The rust is a little annoying but its nowhere under the car at least. It lives in my garage mostly so ill fix the cosmetics as time goes on.
I don't know enough about exactly why Toyota designed the turbo inlet manifold the way they did to give you any accurate info unfortunately. That being said, this guy over on Supramania is able to do a much better job of explaining the BOV/recirc valve function.

I do know that there is no IAC on this model 1JZ. The throttle body on the 1/2JZs marked "ECTS-i" utilized a throttle cable that only opens the throttle body 10% mechanically. The remainder of the throttle plate movement is done via electric motor driven by a potentiometer that sweeps with the pull of the cable. The Idle air control and cruise control is taken care of within the throttle body. I should also add, while I used a 96 Corolla throttle cable, I stupidly bought an aftermarket cable and it sucks. There's too much friction between the cable and the liner which makes for a very notchy throttle pedal. Ive replaced it with a used OEM cable from the same car. Live and learn right?!

I'll echo Seamus' comments - welcome and thanks for bringing your build here. Great writeup and pictures... you make it look easy.

Thanks for the kind words! Happy to share! I enjoy the feedback and collective thought process but mainly hope other see this stuff and decide, I can do that!

I wouldn't waste my time on the mk1 rear end. Too costly for what you get. If look at a Ford 8.8 from a 90s exploder.

I tend to agree with the cost-to-strength ratio. Id thought about an exploder 8.8. Gotta check the axle width. Got a buddy that does heavy welding for a living, he suggested welding in a yota 8" truck center section into the MX72 rear axle. Still weighing all my option.

[SilverMk2]

...I tend to agree with the cost-to-strength ratio. Id thought about an exploder 8.8. Gotta check the axle width. Got a buddy that does heavy welding for a living, he suggested welding in a yota 8" truck center section into the MX72 rear axle. Still weighing all my option.

They can be pretty easily narrowed. You can get custom axles cut to whatever length you want. Or the cheap way is to use two of the same used axles on both sides. The axles are asymmetric on the stock one so you can use the shorter one on both sides.