Mx72 Cressdia wagon 1JZ build - Page 2

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  1. #11
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    Time for some more updates! When I rebuilt the brake calipers and redid the whole braking system I cheaped out you decided to try a set of 77 cent front brake pads from rockauto. How bad could they really be?! Lets just say, they don't stop on a dime.... They're horrible! No grab, no bite, almost immediate fade. I wasn't expecting much to be fair. Upgraded to some much nicer pads and am now very confident in my braking.
    Also too a page from the Tacoma headlight upgrade book and put in Hella high wattage bulbs and made my own harness from them. These use a ground switching harness.


    Also I painted the engine cover with 3 coats of VHT Epoxy paint. I think it looks better...


    When I did the lighting upgrade, I also put new Toyota battery terminals on. Added another ground wire from battery to chassis and massively upgraded the charging feed wire to the battery. Its comical how small the stock Cressidas 14ga charging wire is...



    Put some fancy new hood struts on. The car came with a very nicely finished piece of wood for a hood prop. I liked it but it wasn't really my style.


    This is where the factory cruise control module was located. I chopped up the stock bracket from the cruise control and made it work for the 1JZ Igniter. Looks pretty stock..ish. Don't mind the ziptie. The retaining clip broke.


    Boring picture here but it shows how well the 1JZ trans cooler lines mate up to the factory Cressida radiator. I plan to add an external trans cooler soon.


    I didn't have to do much for the fuel feed line to work with the 1JZ. I cut a section out of the factory line and added a fuel filter from some sort of Ford that I had laying around. The line then bolted up the stock 1JZ fuel pulsation dampener banjo bolt. A lot of higher HP guys like to delete/bypass the fuel pulsation dampener but I chose to keep it because of my power goals at the moment. Its designed to smooth the fuel pulsation created by the fuel pump to deliver a more linear flow to the injectors. Ill take it.



    Got some silicone reducing couplers to replace the crappy blue ones I had on my engine before. The blue ones worked great but I'm slowing refining everything and needed a cleaner engine bay look. Also new brake hoses.


    New couplers in place, this is an up-to-date engine bay picture by the way.

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  3. #12
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    I realize I moved away from all the wiring crap earlier. Its really difficult to say to someone, this is exactly how you wire a swap. For starters, I had to extend all 103 wires of my engine harness by 5ft to get everything behind the glove box like it was from the factory. Ive got some pin-out diagrams I made of the MX73 alternator plug and how to wire it to the JZS171 alternator. Also a pin-out of the MX73 Body plug C1 behind the dash. The C1 plug is where you get most of your constant and ignition switched power sources for your new ECU. It also contains the temp gauge feed wire, the circuit opening wire ground wire to control the fuel pump and the wires you need to have the gear shift indicator illuminate properly on the dashboard. Connector C2 is also a body plug but you only need to use one wire from it to feed 12v to make your reverse light circuit function. Connector C3 is located below the fusebox in the engine bay. It contains only 3 wires that are solely for the switching of the main relay. All 3 of these wires need to be extended to the ecu If you want to wire it like Toyota did. There's another 2 pin round connector with 2 large Black/Red wires under the engine bay fusebox. This connector used to give ignition switched power to the 5M coil and Injector driver. I used these to supply power to the 1JZ ignition and injection system.





    Factory MX73 charging circuit diagram.


    I also wired in an OBD2 port to make diagnostics easier. Wiring for that is super simple. You've got to use a scanner that allows you to adjust the baud rate of serial communications.


    The JZS171 ECU pinout is the same as a JZX110 ECU. Ill have to upload those pinout from home tonight.

  4. #13
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    And a 3/4 mile burnout from yesterday. This thing is fast and I need to build a new rear axle for it. All the rear control arm bushings are torn after the 1JZ swap and the E292 diff is a ticking timebomb. Not sure what rear end ill replace it with. Either something very custom or a MK1 supra F series diff....Ifffff I could ever find one.

    https://flic.kr/p/2gUonxM

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  6. #14
    Whistles racerxj220's Avatar
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    Awesome builds you got, and that was a nice video haha

  7. #15
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Welcome to the Mk2/MX72 club! The smile on your face while smoking the corn field is great. You are a pioneer, scholar and hotrodder. Keep us updated on your adventure.

    David

  8. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerxj220 View Post
    Awesome builds you got, and that was a nice video haha
    Thanks! Its a blast to drive!

    Quote Originally Posted by ToyodaSup View Post
    Welcome to the Mk2/MX72 club! The smile on your face while smoking the corn field is great. You are a pioneer, scholar and hotrodder. Keep us updated on your adventure.

    David
    Thanks man that's one hell of a compliment! I'm estimating around 310ish whp which roasts the factory 195 series tires. Burnous have been a high priority in this build. My next focus will be on the rear differential due to how I beat on this thing. All 4 rear control arms have recently torn bushings due to my shenanigans.
    Considering t3 arms but also ae86 arms as they're much cheaper. Does anyone know if ae86 rear arms are the same length at the mx72 control arms? Also thought about just using ae86 poly bushings but I don't know if the diameters are the same. Guess and test maybe?

  9. #17
    CelicaSupra.com Member mutantcolors's Avatar
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    Where'd you get the VVt-i o-ring? Chances are good you bought it from me

    Nice build.

  10. #18
    CelicaSupra.com Member mutantcolors's Avatar
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    Your wiring is well beyond mine, and is why I am 95% of the way through a 1J swap and stuck.

  11. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mutantcolors View Post
    Your wiring is well beyond mine, and is why I am 95% of the way through a 1J swap and stuck.
    I got the vvt-i gear o-ring from Driftmotion I think. What chassis are you swapping which model 1J into? I find the wiring portion to be very easy, I'm happy to help you figure out wiring if I can.

  12. #20
    CelicaSupra.com Member mutantcolors's Avatar
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    It's going in, scratch that, it's already in my 82 Supra.
    I got the NA 1JZ GE off eBay for $600 delivered. Turned out nigh impossible to find diagrams for it, but I got them last week...in Russian. LOL

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