How much current your car draws while sleeping? - Page 2

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  1. #11
    CelicaSupra.com Member RedP85's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone.
    Dale, 7-10mA is pretty much what I would have guess, given the '80s electronics. We have ECU, radio, clock and a couple of modules drawing continuously.
    I do have a batt tender ready to be plugged-in. I just have to pop the hook, and my charger is attached to the garage door opener, so the mating plug is always near by.
    I did not know about AGM may be asking a bit more for charging.
    As per TSRM, (page CH-4) we should have 13.5 to 15.1V.
    I have 14.4V above Idle speed.
    I will be chasing my 27mA later this winter, plug it for now.
    I would not be surprise to find corrosion somewhere in a door (a door connector game me issues in my first Supra) or in the main junction block, as I have had a leaky windsheild couple years ago.

    I'm interested If anbody else have a value for me, as it would confirm a good car condition mA draw.

    Thanks
    -Jocelyn,
    P85-6MGE SDR(HKS kit c/w IC and F-Con in a box) 225KKm, NAL seats, 2.5 Brullen, ACT clutch, LJM, SS lines, Trip Computer. EuroH4
    P85-5MGE SDR had 439KKm (for 17 years my daily driver, RIP...), 2002 E39 ///M5 LMB Hidden Content
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  3. #12
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    I wired in a "battery tender" to an orange plug below the bumper.
    Yes,I have driven out of my drive way,without unplugging it.

    On my old Ford,I had a plug at the REAR of my car.
    On a Supra,the wire to the electric antenna is always HOT.That would work.


    I have a block heater connected to that plug also!
    Last edited by ddd228; 09-05-2019 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Block heater.
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
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  4. #13
    CelicaSupra.com Member supraz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddd228 View Post
    I wired in a "battery tender" to an orange plug below the bumper.
    Yes,I have driven out of my drive way,without unplugging it.
    Hahaha,

    You'd look natural in Edmonton Alberta in January!
    EVERYONE has block heaters to keep the engine warm enough to turnover. There's usually a 6' extension cord plugged in. The other end gets tied around the rear view mirror.

    I'm sure it's really common to forget to unplug those suckers!

    I suppose that it could be the real man's way of running an EV. No "less than manly" batteries for you!

    Dale
    Black 1983 P Type 5 Spd, Cloth Interior, BBK,HRE 17" Wheels, HKS Exhaust
    White 1984 P Type Auto, Leather Interior, Sunroof, Digital Dash

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  6. #14
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    14.4V still might be marginal with an AGM battery. What's important here is not the spec for our cars, but what todays batteries need to stay properly charged. Batteries have changed significantly in the 3 - 4 decades since our cars were designed and built. That being said, I think that installing a battery tender may be all that's required to keep your battery topped up. If not, as I stated earlier, there are ways to increase the charge voltage in 0.6V increments and it looks like 1 would get you to 15.0V which was stated as the minimum charge voltage todays vehicles have. The higher charge voltage recharges the battery significantly faster than a lower one would so it would also likely solve your problem.
    But I share your concern about corrosion due to the windshield leaking. In the past, I had a similar problem and after having the windshield replaced, finally tore the car apart trying to get to the bottom of a few intermittent issues that had become more than annoying. What I found was that the connection to the door harness as well as a few others behind the main fuse box had mostly a greenish corrosion and in a few places there was some that was whitish. I don't have any idea if these were due to 2 different issues or if the difference in the color was simply due to a time difference of how long they.d been corroding.
    The corrosion creates two different issues. In some cases, the corrosion creates poor or no contact between 2 interconnecting terminals. In others, it creates partial to complete shorts between adjacent terminals because it's conductive. This could be the source of your increased current draw. In any event, after thoroughly cleaning both halves of every connector in that area, everything has been problem free for years. The only cleaner that really works is DeOxIt. It's been highly recommended forever by myself as well as quite a few others.

  7. #15
    CelicaSupra.com Member RedP85's Avatar
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    Thanks Ray, I'll give a look at that mod to the regulator.
    My Mitsu Lancer also have a 24F battery (lead-acid), so I might swap.
    But 27mA sounds a bit high to me for standby, so I'll investigate anyway were it goes.

    Anyone ever open the main junction block of the driver kick panel?
    It's a major puzzle of criss-cross multi-layer folded steel multi-finger spider legs!
    I did open one up on my first Supra to clean the many connectors that were covered by this greenish stuff Ray talked above. A serious challenge!
    -Jocelyn,
    P85-6MGE SDR(HKS kit c/w IC and F-Con in a box) 225KKm, NAL seats, 2.5 Brullen, ACT clutch, LJM, SS lines, Trip Computer. EuroH4
    P85-5MGE SDR had 439KKm (for 17 years my daily driver, RIP...), 2002 E39 ///M5 LMB Hidden Content
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  8. #16
    CelicaSupra.com Member drjim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray85p View Post
    This is absolutely true. It's also another one of the benefits of upgrading to the 92 Camry alternator. It's charging voltage is about 14.5 vs about 13.8 with our original alternators. There are ways to increase the charging voltage of (older) alternators by using certain pairs of diodes in the reference voltage line to make the voltage regulator think that the system voltage is lower than it really is. Each set of parallel diodes in series with the reference lead increases the charging voltage by about 0.6 volts. This mod isn't hard, but it's not something to be undertaken unless you really understand exactly which components to use and how to properly connect and protect them. If anyone is interested in doing this, a Google search should provide a source for device specs and complete directions.
    That same technique of "raising" the ground the regulator uses as a reference has a solid base-of-use in many electronic applications, so it's not some snake-oil magic. As Ray says, you must do it correctly to get it to work properly, but it does work, and I've used the basic priciple many times in different circuits.

    The color of the corrosion is a way of gauging approximately how long the connection has been subjected to "unexpected" conditions. It starts out white as the tin plating on the terminals sacrifices itself as tin oxide, and then progresses to the green color as the underlying copper begins to corrode. ANY amount of salt in the air or water will greatly accelerate the corrosion. I've seen two-year old connections that weren't properly sealed against the elements literally melt away back in Illinois where they dump salt on the roads at the first sign of a snowflake.
    Last edited by drjim; 09-05-2019 at 09:08 PM. Reason: clarity
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  9. #17
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedrye View Post
    Not quite on topic, but in my experience, AGM batteries don't play well with older cars because their alternators don't put out enough voltage to fully charge the AGM. Running around on a partially charged battery all the time seems to shorten their lifespan really quickly. Look at most modern cars with an AGM and you'll see charging voltages between 15-16v. Even my 07 FJ can't handle the AGM without me keeping it topped off via charger pretty often. Tried a number of them on previous 85 Celicas with horrible results when not charged via AGM-specific charger regularly.
    Interesting. I had not read anything about that, rather I had read somewhere that the AGM lasted better in storage for classic cars. I purchased an AGM battery for my 69 Corvette a couple years ago. The "reproduction" Delco batteries are in fact, modern AGM batteries wrapped in a case that looks like its from the 1960s. The manufacturer recommends keeping it plugged in when not in use and specifically they recommend a certain unit of Battery Minder brand, though I already had CTEKs. I found at first my CTEK would sometimes stop and blink an error. I eventually figured out that it seemed to be associated with the CTEK extension cable. It doesn't error out when instead of the CTEK extension, I ran a regular AC extension cord from the outlet across the shop floor and plug the unit to the battery directly. Hopefully no more than the Corvette gets driven it'll last. Its 99.999% on the CTEK in "snowflake" mode (there's a setting for cold weather and AGM batteries that's supposed to increase the charge voltage.) I also bought an AGM battery for my truck because it too sits probably 80% of the time plugged into a CTEK, but its a 2007. I hope I don't wind up regretting spending the extra money for AGMs.
    Phil D.
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  10. #18
    CelicaSupra.com Member ddd228's Avatar
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    I'm surprised that the Absorbed Glass Mat batteries are not always the best solution for older cars that cannot charge at the recommended voltage! Mine cannot do better than 13. 8 VOLTS. (Stock alternator,so far.)
    I'll assume that the "jelly roll" ones are the same issue.
    The best battery for older cars are NOT AGM's.

    I use the snow flake setting on my solar systems AGM's with my # 7002 CTEK. It gets WARM,charging 6 of them. I use an external fan.I'll guess that is why they fail: overheating.

    I trust my "battery tender" wired into my Supra.2 AMP setting.
    No,I don't have one. I got one from Sears,when I worked there. Ching Tau brand.
    http://products.batterytender.com/Chargers/
    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    '84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.

  11. #19
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Yes, getting at the connections on the back of fuse box in the drivers side kick panel is a PITA. But it can be done without that much difficulty. The first thing I do is remove the seat and then the trim panels in that area so that I don't have to "stand on my head" to access it easily. The fuse box then can be unbolted and pulled out some and turned some to get at the connectors on the back side. Cleaning these connectors thoroughly as well as the one to the passenger side door in the passenger side kick panel has fixed many problems and intermittent issues over the years. And by using DeOxIt, I've never had to redo any of it again.

  12. #20
    CelicaSupra.com Member drjim's Avatar
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    Agree 100% with Ray.....DeOxit is "The Kind"!

    Been using that stuff for well over 25 years, and it's never let me down. I've even had it bring back controls that I thought I was going to have to replace.
    1985 5-speed "Ms. Swan"

    OH, What A Feeling!

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