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10-03-2019, 05:01 PM #11
There is a shoulder on it, so it will only come out in one direction (towards the seal side) There is a snap ring behind that seal you can remove before pushing the shaft out to make it easier, as it has a small circlip that holds the bearing on the shaft, so when you press the shaft out, the bearing will come with it. If you just push the shaft out without removing the snap ring, often enough pressure will pop the circlip off the shaft and it comes out without the bearing.
I use a screwdriver to bend the seal over at the top edge all the way around so it is easy to remove, then press on the splined end (with a piece of soft metal on top of the splines to prevent damage) to pop the shaft out when rebuilding the pumps. If I can't get the seal out I just push on the shaft until the little circlip releases. Most Toyota PS pumps are the same this way.
Look at the TSRM starting page SR-20. They recommend just using a chisel to remove the seal, then remove the snap ring, then hammer the shaft and bearing out.'84 P-type, 5spd, Super red, black/grey leather - 2JZGTE swap, Precision 6262 on cast manifold, ECUmaster black with 875cc/min injectors, 465 WHP at 17 psi, built R154 with OS Giken twin plate, one piece driveshaft with 1310 joints, Truetrac with 3.73 R&P, 450 lb/in front coilovers, 300lb/in rear springs, Image BBM wheels 17x8 and 18x10, 4 corner BBK, AGX shocks, Whiteline bars, poly bushings, T3 GTX2 front control and steering arms etc. etc.
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10-03-2019, 05:14 PM #12
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