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2j2ge swap parts list

5K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  Darrow 
#1 ·
My buddy has a 2003 Is300 with a GE I cant seem to find a list of everything needed for the swap, Can you guys point me in the right direction? info so far of things needed im told are

engine
tranny for bell housing
engine harness
ecu
engine mount kit

anything else ill need or need to purchase elsewhere? also I read something about tranny non and lsd versions and something about certain ecu that don't have some theft wire? Sorry confused,
 
#2 ·
#5 ·
Just did this swap. Ask any specifics you want.
The 2J swap bible is geared toward a GTE swap not a GE swap. Don't let that confuse you.
In general for going into an 83:
W58 Clutch/Flywheel set up: Search for 5-speen sc300 for flywheel and clutch.
Engine mount adapters and use transmission mounts for the adapters to crossmember.
Stock ECU with harness. Need immobilizer or immobilizer delete and Automatic Trans simulator. I have an extra ecu with required immobilizer. I don't have an extra automatic transmission emulator.
Power steeing pump/hose: I have the Drift motion powersteeing line. I have hears that a Celica GTS powersteering pump and lines will work as well.
Alternator wiring is routed differently.
Electric fans
Return fuel rail from an early 2JZ.
Activating the stock fuel pump relay.
Trans mount is the same is staying w58.
Throughout bearing, pivot bearing and clutch fork for the SC300 5 speed. I have an extra pivot bearing.
ECU mounting location since the stock mounting location is in the engine compartment.
Tach adapter
All 4 O2 sensors if staying with stock ECU. Evap VSVs if staying stock ECU.
EWDs for both vehicles.
Various fittings and couplers for adapting lines/hoses to the car.
Other stuff I am sure but with that you can get it up and running.
 
#9 ·
Just did this swap. Ask any specifics you want.
The 2J swap bible is geared toward a GTE swap not a GE swap. Don't let that confuse you.
In general for going into an 83:
W58 Clutch/Flywheel set up: Search for 5-speen sc300 for flywheel and clutch.
Engine mount adapters and use transmission mounts for the adapters to crossmember.
Stock ECU with harness. Need immobilizer or immobilizer delete and Automatic Trans simulator. I have an extra ecu with required immobilizer. I don't have an extra automatic transmission emulator.
Power steeing pump/hose: I have the Drift motion powersteeing line. I have hears that a Celica GTS powersteering pump and lines will work as well.
Alternator wiring is routed differently.
Electric fans
Return fuel rail from an early 2JZ.
Activating the stock fuel pump relay.
Trans mount is the same is staying w58.
Throughout bearing, pivot bearing and clutch fork for the SC300 5 speed. I have an extra pivot bearing.
ECU mounting location since the stock mounting location is in the engine compartment.
Tach adapter
All 4 O2 sensors if staying with stock ECU. Evap VSVs if staying stock ECU.
EWDs for both vehicles.
Various fittings and couplers for adapting lines/hoses to the car.
Other stuff I am sure but with that you can get it up and running.
Hey,

So my buddy needs to scrap his IS300, So can you please give me a detailed list of exactly what I need to pull off the car before its scrapped? \As now is the time lol, I figured ask since you did the swap as everything I read is all over the place and I am confused, the car he has is a 2001 Auto IS300 with a 2jzge vvti w/ immobilizer I am assuming
 
#6 ·
Thats a fantastic motor, and Darrow's swap is awesome (got to try it a couple weeks ago!), but the electronics side of this swap is a little daunting. Since you haven't actually acquired the motor yet, consider getting a 92-97 2jzge. The wiring and electronics side is way simpler, and you will get pretty similar peak HP\torque numbers, but less mid/lowrange power. I really like the later vvti 2jz, but dealing with OBD2 and the ECTSi throttle body is a challenge. But Darrow figured it out if you want to follow in his foot steps! The motor availability is certainly better for the IS motor currently.

Another option is there are years of that motor without the immobilizer, and technically there should be a JDM manual one too. But thats like the 97-99s, JDM only. Our sc300 never got this motor in manual, and the is300 started in 2000 so they are all immoblizered, and the manuals didn't come till later (and are insanely rare and expensive).
 
#7 ·
He may have the engine and donar car from his buddy. If his buddy is willing to give up all the pieces for the swap it is no more difficult than the non-VVTI swap.
I would gestimate and aditional $1k for the extras after you get the engine and transmission.
 
#11 ·
Big picture items.
From air filter to engine and all connected hoses. Label the ones you will need to cut, I believe there is a VSV that goes towards the back of the car.
Exhaust until the end of the trans. This will help the exhaust shop make up an adaptor.
ECU and box.
All wiring into the ecu box. Give yourself a good foot of wiring if possible. Should be able to fold the ECU box onto the engine at that point. Ignitor will be connected to the ECU box but mounted out side on the shock tower I believe.
Get the key, key reader and amplifier from near the steering column. You will need this if keeping the stock ECU. I have the immobilizer bypassed and didn't use those.
The OBD connector from under the dash. Get as much wire as you can.
Rear O2 sensor will have to be cut, if it is like the GS300, since it goes into the passenger compartment and is intertwined with the dash wiring.
There will be a bunch of lines going towards the back of the car most of these will be for fuel or EVAP VSVs. I have blocked off these lines but they will give the ecu a soft code and trigger a MIL light. I have yet to wire in/fake the VSV signal and just reset with an OBD reader.
I didn't use it but you can take the fuel pump and fuel ECU if you want to try and get it to work. The IS will use a returnless fuel system and ours is a return fuel system. Work around I used is to get a pre VVTI return fuel like and pressure regulator. You could drill and tap the returnless one but I didn't want to take the risk of metal in my fuel lines.
All fusing and power distribution will come from the Supra wiring.
You can get the fuse boxes and mount them for a cleaner look. The one I used is more square in shape. See the pic. I used two of them.

That is the basics you will want. Then next step would be to get all the bits and pieces to adapt it to the Supra.

Others.
Get the door speakers, They make great shop speakers when hooked up to a makeshift car stereo.

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