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11-14-2019, 09:02 PM #1
Coolant temp light, Battery light and break light all staying on... what?
I have been working heavly on my car since i got it back from being in a shop for 7 years.
anyways follow me on IG ItalianJapanese
Last night i did a engine oil flush
and also fixed the rusted ass fuel sending unit that was stuck.
I got it to work
I did take the maf off and start the car to move it. Ran like shit but just needed to move it while i was cleaning the K&N filter.
After puting everything back on and making sure evverything is pluged up my lights are on while the car is running..
Coolant light temp is on even though the coolant temp gauge is working cause its showing up on my dash and its perfect
Battery light on but the alt is charging it at 13.5v
and the brake light is on but everything seems to be ok..
Car runs great but wtf! why are all the lights on.
The check engine light is off but thats because the bulb is broken. LOLOL
Btw there is also a giant exhaust leak but the lights werent on before...
What are your ideas.
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11-15-2019, 04:18 PM #2
battery light and brake light on at the same time is classic alternator failure symptom, try checking the car after its warmed up when idle drops to 800 ish rpm and see if its still producing better than 13V. Although rare I've had a alternator fail going the other way (overcharge) look for off idle (3000 rpm+) charging over 15.5V or so. Mine went to over 18V (lights got really bright, scared the hell out of me..)
wiring, and grounds after that...
will"Betty" 85 Supra. LJM front strut bar, custom rear bar, Addcos sway f/r, Tokico f/r, Eibachs springs, and full PST bushing kit, Cusco camber plates, RC intake w/custom cold air & K&N filter, JK short shifter, MKIII 10 blade radiator fan, SS break lines, RC SS clutch line, Russel quick bleeders, custom stereo.
"Karmen" 85 Supra. RC TB and intake. Bored out AFM, Magnaflow cat. soon new stock brake lines and muffler.
11-15-2019, 04:52 PM #3
Its the alternator. BTW, Boshce brand new ones are only like 100 bucks now and have a lifetime warranty (that you will be cashing in on!).Black 86 mk2 Project Car
New SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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11-15-2019, 07:39 PM #4
Might be a good time to do the Camry/ES alternator upgrade by picking up a used one on eBay. OEMs tend to last quite a while.
11-16-2019, 11:30 AM #5
Just buy the reman/new camry one. Direct plug and play. The parts store won't even know your core isn't the same :PHidden Content 86 parts car maybe some day race car? 3x cars, 36x brake caliper pistons.
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11-16-2019, 12:39 PM #683-Red P-type , 6M,. LJM strut-bar, RC intake,Thorley header,Tenzo 17" wheels, cross-drilled rotors, Eibach springs, KYB shocks, 85 hatch and int., 82 header panel=Frankenkar
87 4 Runner, White, 22RE, 302K on original motor, still strong
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11-17-2019, 05:47 AM #7
11-17-2019, 02:35 PM #8
Thank for for helping me out everyone.
Been so long working on this car I forgot a lot of things.
I did do the research for upgraded the altenator and it looks like a great idea but i dont trust myself doing the diode thingy mabob to the realy to trick the battery light from coming on.
So i called Autozone this morning and they have one in stock in Hawaii for only 69.99! its reman and thats good enough for me!
When I swap out the motor for a 2jzgte I will definetly do that light trick but as of now I think this will do.
11-17-2019, 03:30 PM #9
Just make sure you don't expect it to last long. The same alternator is $30 on rock auto. Can't expect much for that.
11-17-2019, 09:52 PM #10
well i put in the new alternator and guess what. it doesnt work..
welll so I thought.
This car is kicking my ass.
I brought the alt back to autozone and had them test it in the machine. and it passed! twice!
SO WHAT THE HELL!
I went back home
double checked all the wiring and plugs..
12v reading from main source
and 12v reading from the plug on all 3 holes..think 1 was ground (when car ignition is on)
i chcked the 7.5 amp fuse.. perfect!
I made sure all the lines were ok.
my head hurts
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