Results 11 to 19 of 19
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11-19-2019, 06:56 PM #11
sooo worked on the car again...
I made a new fusible link.
i also am by passing the charge lamp relay..
my lgihts dont come on anymore but still not charging.
So that wasnt the problem...
This car is truely mad at me..
Most people say when the alternator goes out I get a brake light and battery light to come on. I had the coolant light as well. even maybe the check engine light but I cant tell for sure because the bulb on the engine light is dead
gonna take apart the cluster and change it. Maybe it will trouble shoot something...
This is so weird...
I must hav ea short some where.. -
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11-19-2019, 09:37 PM #12
So far
made sure its a working alternator
made sure its a battery that is good and can handle load and can take a charge
checked and changed fusible links
checked and changed 7.5 amp fuse
Checked and by passed lamp charge relay (diode)
checked wiring on 3 wire plug (White is ground) (fat black wire always on 12v) (smaller black wire ignition 12 v)
Checked connection main bolt 12v on alternator to battery
checked alternator main bolt while car was on and still nothing
Made sure its tight and the 2 v belts are taught
I started the car and lifted off the positive terminal and instantly dies.
im kinda lost now...
is there a way to trick the alternator to just always be charging..
I know some guys do this in honda swaps..
found wiring book for our car online
Here is what i found for the charging system
Looks like the efi main relay and the ig main relay are within the charging system
So i am gonna change all those relays!
changing efi main tail and head
They look pretty crapped out anyways. Hope autozone or orelly will have them
and now you can see the fusible links i made!Last edited by 82 Lover; 11-19-2019 at 11:06 PM.
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11-20-2019, 03:52 AM #13
after studying the wire diagram i have found my problem.
I am getting current through one of the relay when car is off. always staying on. It shows that both should be off and both should engage when car is on.
OK
I am gonna try find relays tomorrow if not gotta order via toyota auto parts. com....
takes so long to get here... -
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11-21-2019, 02:03 AM #14
OK so system still not charging.. LOLOL
I replaced all relays and Fuses that are associated with the charging system.
I even check underneath the box and made sure everything looke pretty good
I really dont understand what is going on... LOLOL wow.
This car is truely hilarious!
LOL if icant figure it out its gonna go to a auto electrical shop. -
11-21-2019, 02:29 PM #15
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
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- San Diego
- Posts
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Disclaimer: I am no Tesla or Edison.
If you have not already done so it would be good in any event to check the main ground wires. My negative battery terminal had some resistance in it which caused some similar problems. Test the continuity between the ground ends and replace or clean them up. Wires that appear to be in good condition can corrode inside the insulation. Use your ohm meter to check the extreme ends of the suspect conductors in the concerned circuits. -
11-21-2019, 04:15 PM #16
Have you even used a multimeter to check the voltage at the battery with it running? These cars don't put out much at idle you need to keep the RPM up around 2-3k RPM to get any kind of charging.
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11-21-2019, 06:36 PM #17
toyodasup thanks man. Really appreciate it. I do not have a ophm meter cause they r a little pricey but will take it to my friends shop on the weekend where he has one.
SilverMk2
Ofcourse bro
i revved that thing to 4k! and nothing!
I even unplugged the positive terminal while it running instantly dies.. alternator is putting out shit.
I check out all the connection by using the mulitmeter by using the thing where it checks the circuit. (makes a noise)
Everything is connected
I am loosing resistance some where and its being really dumb!
But it could certainly be a ground issue!
I did check ground on altternator itself and it is grounded.. but maybe not well enough -
11-21-2019, 10:32 PM #18
Bad ground are always difficult to diagnose anf find, simply because we always assume thdy are good.
-Jocelyn,
P85-6MGE SDR(HKS kit c/w IC and F-Con in a box) 225KKm, NAL seats, 2.5 Brullen, ACT clutch, LJM, SS lines, Trip Computer. EuroH4
P85-5MGE SDR had 439KKm (for 17 years my daily driver, RIP...), 2002 E39 ///M5 LMB Hidden Content
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11-22-2019, 07:05 AM #19
After looking at a clearer wiring diagram. The following need to be good. 15A ENGINE FUSE goes to alternator 3 pin plug (pin #2) should cycle on and off with ignition switch. Pin 3 on alternator connector constant 12v (battery).Pin 1 will show ground if charge relay coil is plugged in.When alternator plug is connected to alternator, pin 1 will have 12v sent to the charge fuse. Plug alternator plug in. Pull charge fuse with ignition on and test for power (12v is good)
Take a ground wire directly from the battery negative to alternator case.That will solve any ground issues for alternator.
Bolt on alternator should always have battery voltage.
If test voltages are not there check for broken wire. Unless the alternator has a bad rectifier.
Thats all I have for now.
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