I think its time to discuss elec. Turbo's??

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  1. #1
    Member That!Guy's Avatar
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    So attempt to be patient with me... (Since i raaaarely use forums) unless im desperate for info/education...

    So... I gotta 82 mk2.. Love it.. Swapped an ol' cressida 7mge in it.. Runnin on a n.a. supra (auto) ecu and harness.. Motors rebuilt with muuuch material decked on block and milled off head.. Also has 30 over on bore... Its a hyper ass motor..and im not complaining about its power in any way... Fun a.f. in a 3000lb rust bucket supra with 3.73 gears like mine...

    So having said all that.. All you "just turbo it" 7m trolls...

    ..... Here i am... A n.a. 7m LOVER..... Convert me..
    ........... Havin seen "father cleetus" test the new "Torqueamp" electric turbo on that bow tie fwd 4 cylinder... Is there any way i could do this install without getting gte electronics to have better tuning capabilities? Since the ge ecu has little to none?

    Or does it sound foolish.. Which maybe the whole idea is foolish.. All i know is..

    Eventually elec. Turbos are gonna be a thing... And as most 7mge lovers...i like to keep things simple and DONT want to gte my car..
    Last edited by That!Guy; 11-28-2019 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Grammer/spelling

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  3. #2
    Member That!Guy's Avatar
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    Im thinkin... Slap thicker head gasket on her, throw a couple more psi into fuel regulator, advance timing a lil, and remove valve overlap cam timing back to stock...

    Shove turbo to intake pipe and plug the controller to 12 volts.. And BAM... now id be the "just turbo" it troll like all of yall....

    🇺🇸👌😎💪

  4. #3
    Founding Member pdupler's Avatar
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    You have to be able to modify the fuel injector pulse width or fuel pressure along with spark advance to compensate for air density. The 7m-gte electronics are very different, still very ancient and very much hard coded to what the ct-26 does.
    Phil D.
    85 Silver 6m-gte, completed 2000

    "I always observe the speed limit. I see those DAMNED signs everywhere."

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  6. #4
    Member That!Guy's Avatar
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    Wouldnt i be able to do this with a gte computer combined with a piggy back computer?

    I ask because i had assumed there is no way to put aftermarket computer on a ge computer.. Us ge peeps have it ol skool when it comes to tunin..

    Maybe in some far away future there will be a "universal stand alone computer" that will run any motor it is in touch with via electronics..

    And tinkering of course

  7. #5
    Member That!Guy's Avatar
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    Also...we are only talkin 5psi here..

    Maybe ge computer wouldnt know what to do with the addition of boost.. But id assume havin gte ecu would be able to tune around the measily 3-5psi that lil thing is pushin..

  8. #6
    CelicaSupra.com Member Funkycheeze's Avatar
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    To put any kind of forced induction on an engine (even 'only' 5 psi) you need to be able to increase fuelling because of the extra air and to run a more rich AFR and pull timing. On a 7MGE, this means either a complete switch to GTE electronics, or make a custom engine harness and run a piggyback computer. For the expense of that and the electric turbo, it would be easier to put a stock 1JZGT into the car instead on the stock wiring and ECU.
    '84 P-type, 5spd, Super red, black/grey leather - 2JZGTE swap, Precision 6262 on cast manifold, ECUmaster black with 875cc/min injectors, 465 WHP at 17 psi, built R154 with OS Giken twin plate, one piece driveshaft with 1310 joints, Truetrac with 3.73 R&P, 450 lb/in front coilovers, 300lb/in rear springs, Image BBM wheels 17x8 and 18x10, 4 corner BBK, AGX shocks, Whiteline bars, poly bushings, T3 GTX2 front control and steering arms etc. etc.

  9. #7
    Member That!Guy's Avatar
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    Sadly this was the answer i was expecting..

  10. #8
    besides how many amps would an electric turbo need? I am thinking alot more then the supra can do.
    but a cool idea thats coming for sure

  11. #9
    Boosting Mod SilverMk2's Avatar
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    These things were kind of trendy with the twin crowd for awhile, but I noticed most of the people bought them sold them and bought real superchargers and turbos after that. That should tell you all you need to know. You get a little 5-10 sec boost of like 20 hp and then it can be several minutes before its ready again. There just isn't enough power on a 12V system to power a significantly sized motor. That's why electric cars are 400-800V systems.

  12. #10
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    I found the vid you referenced...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7a_J2X88fSE

    Thats pretty cool that there is finally an electric supercharger on the market that is isn't complete BS. Any one that is powered entirely off the stock electrical system is BS, as SilverMk2 mentioned traditional cars don't have enough volts to actually make any real boost. But this TorqAmp thing comes with a big box that is no doubt a giant capacitor, and as long as your alt is healthy (making at least 14volts), its charging the thing up for a shot, and they claim it amps up the current to 48v (for a limited time). So these seem to function more like a nitrous system then, or like the scramble boost button Mclarens and some other cars have where you get a little extra boost for a short period when you hit a button. Which is not horrible, on something like an autox course, there's usually only a couple points where you can go completely full throttle, but it would be a little pointless on a road coarse unless you were actually doing wheel to wheel racing and just using it to pass people.

    Another thing to keep in mind, in that video they are testing the unit on a 2.2l 4cyl, and it hits 5psi at like 2000-3000rpm, but as the motor climbs to red line, the boost fell off to about 2psi. Very curious if that was more from the motor ingesting more air at higher RPM, or if the capacitor was running out of charge at that point! Regardless, on a 3.0l, you are going to get even less boost as the motor will consume even more air, so the percentage of increase in output they saw won't be as high. And there doesn't appear to be a size option for this thing, so they don't have one that is more suitable for a bigger motor.

    Another downside, unless you plumb in some kind of intake channel valve, the compressor itself is a big restriction when its not running. On the little 2.2 they only lost about 12% power when it was off, but it will be even more on a bigger motor. Plus you have to haul around whatever the weight of the capacitor box and compressor is all the time, so you will be slower then you were before at all times the compressor isn't engaged.

    Also as was mentioned, you need standalone to insure you don't fry your motor. 5psi is nothing to scoff at, its enough to strain the shitty factory composite head gaskets these motors have, way outflow the stock 5mge injectors, and push your A/F numbers into dangerous territory. The stock 7mgte EFI system might be able to deal with this actually, it does sense boost and its MAF will see the uptake in air flowing in and it might be able to keep the A/F happy enough. A stock ct26 will put out like 7psi so there is more then enough headroom.

    Anyways, this thing is kinda cool, but its a little hard to justify at the price point it comes in, and the disadvantages it has. I think traditional nitrous would be superior (and cheaper!), its only downside is you have to constantly refill it. But at $2500, you are spending more then what a complete 1jzgte costs, spending about what a single good new turbo costs, more then what a complete used 7mgte turbo setup costs, similar cost to a good new supercharger, etc. Its a tough sell.

    Hey you didn't mention what you're running your 7mge on, stock 7mge electronics? You said you really liked your motor, and a 7m with more compression and displacement then stock is a very potent combo in a mk2, but you've left several things on the table. If you are running this thing on the factory 5mge electronics still, then you are super restricted in output by the 5m's horrible AFM, and its propensity to over fuel. Stand alone could actually net you some really good gains if you are on anything less then the full 7mge electronics, and they are working perfectly. Headers offer big gains over the stock manifold, and that 3.72 is doing you no favours. I would jump up to a 4.1 or 4.3 (especially if you are stock tire diameter or greater), and you will transform how your car accelerates, especially out of the hole. Your motor with proper tuning and bolt ons and maybe an adjustable cam gear on the exhaust cam has been proven here to be capable of putting down pretty much 200lbs/ft to the wheels, which is really good. I'd optimize what you have to that point before dumping 2500 bucks on something that you can only use for discrete periods to get more output, and reduces your perf at all other times.
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