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SAFC II Wiring writeup

21K views 43 replies 16 participants last post by  Millenniumsupra 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, I just installed my SAFC II. Everything seems to work great. I thought I would post the wiring here.

--SAFC II Wire Color-------ECU Wire Color--
Red (Power)-------------->Black/Yellow (+B on far right of connector)
Green (RPM)-------------->Green/White (IGT)
Purple (Knock)----------->Clear (KNK)
Grey (Throttle)----------->Black (VTA)
Brown (Ground)---------->Brown (E1)(Goes closest to ECU)
Black (Ground)----------->Brown (E1)(~1cm further down than the other E1 tap(farther from ECU))
Yellow (AFM)-------------->Yellow/Blue (Vs)(going out to CPU from SAFC)
White (AFM)--------------->Yellow/Blue (Vs)(coming from AFM to SAFC)

The Yellow and Blue wire is the only wire that gets cut. All the other wires you just splice into.

The SAFC's brown wire gets spliced between the ECU and the SAFC's Black wire. In other words both the SAFC's Black and brown wire get spliced onto the ECU's Brown wire but the SAFC's Brown wire needs to be the one closest to the ECU.

I hope all this makes sense.

This was done on an 85 P Type with Manual tranny. Use this info at your own risk. Please dont blame me if you wire it this way and you fry something. Always double check your wiring against a reliable schematic for YOUR car and the SAFC II manual.

EDIT: See the following post for issues using the SAFC II on an 82-84!!!
http://www.celicasupra.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=16471#16471
 
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#2 ·
This post should be turned into a Sticky!
 
#5 ·
MKIIBeater said:
Hey 007,

Hw do you like the afcII ? I was thinking of getting one as opposed to the s-afc, but does the display actually read knock sum? If the afcII display actually shows that then I am definetly going to bet getting one instead. Thanks,

Austin
Austin,

I honestly have no idea because I don't have one.

82Spearco asked if the post could be made into a "sticky" so I did that - the person you might want to address this to is CRF_Rider (who originally started this thread).

Good luck!
 
#6 ·
I would definatly get the SAFC II. www.horsepowerfreaks.com has the best price on them and you get english instructions (for $5 extra).

It does monitor and display knock if you have a knock sensor. It also can store 2 fuel maps, record and playback data as well as peak recall I believe.

You wont be sorry.
 
#9 ·
MKIIBEATER:

Yes my knock sensor is working and it does display knock AFTER you go through the knock sensor setup. To setup the knock sensor on the SAFC II goto settings, then knk sns (or something like that). It will give you a reading of a current knock value. Make sure the car is warmed up, then bring the engine up to 1500 rpm's and pugh the safc II joystick to the right. That should set the 1500rpm knock level. Do the same for the 3500 rpm knock setting and then go to the monitor mode. It should display knock if you ahve that item selected to be displayed. Note that I set mine after warming up the car for like 5 minutes. Then I drove it and had to set the knock level again as the base setting were not done when the car was at perfect operating levels.

82TURBOSUPRA:

I can change settings on the fly. I can verify this for you when I put it on the dyno tuesday to get it dialed in if you like.

Cheers
 
#10 ·
So I think what your getting at is that the afc will only display knock at a certain rpm, or is there some kind of menu or something that allows you to adjust fuel in real time automatiaclly incase the afc reads knock?

The knock display doesnt read in real time? If it does read knock sum in realtime then can you set it up to constantly show you knock? This is a big thing for me cause this could help tuning a lot if it will show knock sum in realtime. You can simply tune to a/f values, egt's and knock sum...this woudl be the ideal budget way if you cannot get on a dyno 8)
 
#11 ·
It does display knock in real time

It will not automatically adjust your A/F ratio according to knock

Adjusting your AF ratio outside of a wideband will at the least not get you the peak performance or worst sieze your engine.

What application is this going on? I assume you either have a turbo conversion on your MKII or have dropped in a 7MGTE.
 
#15 ·
I believe that function is pre-set depending on what type of Air sensor you chose. I dont think you should have any issues with an 82. The system is the same even though the wiring may be slightly different (which I doubt).

I just took a look at the manuel and I can not find any voltage specs. So it is either not translated (manuel is in japenese with (some) english translation) or it wasnt relased.
 
#19 ·
Ok I got everything hooked up but Im just having one problem. Now keep in mind that the car ran perfect before all this happened K :wink: Now the only thing wrong with the afc wiring is that my TPS reading is a constat 100%. I never checked the TPS before this, but I assume everythign was fine as it idled fine, never had any CEL's and never gave me problems what so ever. On the sensor check screen the TPS constantly shows a full value of like 4.9+ volts. I know that it runs off of a 0-5 volt range, which would explain why the TPS shows 100% when Im driving around and its in the display mode. Now I just dont understand why the TPS shows a constant full value.... I basically followed yoru instructions to a "T". However I think a few of the connection colors were different from teh 82-84 years, so I also double checked the wiring with that of a fellows off of the SOGI message board whom wired it up on a pre 85 MK2...

Thing is is that the car runs completely normal like this, the RPM's show perfect with it at the 6cyl progressive throttle setting, and Im using FLAP 03 03 as stated by you and the SOGI board. So I have a feeling that everything is hooked up correctly (as teh TPS is hooked into the middle connector, VTA black ECU wire as per both directions) but I just cant figure out why the voltage is constant 5? Any clues at all with this? Id appreciate any hlep you could give, as I know that when its comes time that I get everything on that this will most likely affect my tunign abbilities. Thanks.

Austin
 
#20 ·
The first thing I would do is pull the connector at the TPS switch and check it out with an ohm meter.

I must be one of 3 things.

You tapped into the wrong line

The TPS is bad

The SAFC is bad

I just did a sensor check. Mine reads from 0.35 at closed throttle to 4.1 at full throttle.

You can unplug the SAFC harness and check the voltage coming off that line just to make sure it is reading correct.

What year is your car?
 
#22 ·
Alright I unplugged the TPS clip from the sensor and was still getting a full signal according to the AFC. So this has to mean my dumbass tapped into the wrong wire, I just dont see how it could be though. It said the black (vtA) wire from teh ecu, on both the intrustions I read (yours being one of them), and this happened to be the only one of 2 wires that were black on that connector. I was using someone elses wiring pinouts so maybe mine are different than his, cause whatever wire it is I tapped into for the TPS constantly has at leist 5 volts so I dont know.

CRF- can you tell me exactly which pin it was if you unplug the ecu. Which connector was it, and which pin was in and exactly what color was it as if you were looking directly at the side that the wires go into? Thanks much,

Austin
 
#26 ·
Well further testing shows that the TPS is cosntatntly putting out 5 volts. I do not understand why but I just assume its broken. At leist I hope. Im hoping thats its not doing that because of some type of constant ground somewhere or something. Im going to try and replace it and if that doesnt work then Ill now I have to chase some damn wires down. Thanks much...

PS- I wonder what this is doing for my fuel trims...consdiering the EFI runs the injectors and timing according to TPS, and the AFM. Although the AFM is functioning fine I wonder if the TPS is making things screwy. If anyone knows of anythign that this might be please chime in. THanks,


Austin
 
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