Auto to Manual Swap FAQ - Page 10

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  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by punkray View Post
    Thanks for this great topic. It has been a ton of help to me while swapping out my tranny. Can someone clarify what should be done with the automatic transmission oil cooler? That's the only topic on here that seems to be pretty vague and mostly untouched. Thanks
    Ive ran my powersteering return line to my radiator. Fittings were a little hard to find but it helps cool the fluid. Ive asked if anyone else has done this but no responses.
    Just A lil somethin to think about when doing your swap.

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  3. #92
    Member ViRuS's Avatar
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    So I performed the auto to manual swap on my 83 supra about two years ago. Instead of rewiring the original auto harness, I bought a manual tranny harness from another forum member. Worked perfectly, just unplugged the old one from under the battery and plugged the new one in. So fast forward to the present and I've been having some starting and running issues. So I check the codes (first time in like 5 years since shes been running like a champ) and I have a code 43. TSRM: "no STA signal to ecu when engine is running over 800 rpm." I started troubleshooting and found that the wire that comes from the starter splits before it gets to the plug by the battery. Low and behold the smaller gauge wire was pinned in the wrong spot, it was taking up a blank spot on the body side and the correct body side was pinned in a blank on the starter side. Now I had traced that wire from the ecu and knew it was suppose to be connected, so a quick re pinning and my code is gone. So I assume the harness that I bought was from perhaps a different year or maybe a Cressida, I'm just speculating since they are nearly identical. But if you have solved the harness problem in the same way as I did it might be fruitful to check your codes and connections. And for future swaps it's something to add to the checklist.
    The Desert Supra

    83L- Jessica

  4. #93
    CelicaSupra.com Member TransAmBandit's Avatar
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    Was the starting issue along the lines of when you'd try to crank the car and nothing will happen, not even a click or anything?

    How about the running issue? I got a 85 GTS Celica where I swapped the harness from auto to 5 speed. When I start it, It runs. But give it gas and it cuts out at 1900rpm. Just wnana know if its slightly similar to what you had.
    1984 Supra P-type: 5MGE/W58 Swap/4.10 LSD.
    1987 XtraCab 4x4 5MGE/G54 Swap.
    1987 4Runner Turbo: 22RTE/Auto.
    1987 Maxima SE: VG30E/5Speed. Daily.
    1990 Soarer 1GGTE/W58.

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  6. #94
    Member ViRuS's Avatar
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    The starting issues were very similar to a bad cold start injector or bad iscv valve. Randomly wouldn't start or hard starting with compression of the gas pedal for start and a few cranking attempts necessary especially after sitting a few days or in the coolness of the early morning. Now it will start with one crank almost imediately. Running issues seemed like small vacuum leak, some slight hesitation and rpm would randomly fall to zero when pushing in the clutch. I learned to deal with these after the swap and chalked it up to the age of the engine and the need for a rebuild. Oh and the starter would act funny from time to time, I would go to crank the car and it would make the over cranking sound like when you try to crank it while already running. I figure that was just due to my autozone starter lol. But it seems that everything is resolved now so I am happy. The issues I have been having recently ended up being a dead o2 sensor and using an autozone cap and rotor on my last tune up instead of Toyota. The autozone cap and rotor lasted barely six months with my MSD ignition. Lol
    The Desert Supra

    83L- Jessica

  7. #95
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    I just swapped the sub harness from the battery down and have had zero issues. However, when I initially installed my killer stereo years ago, I tried to use the original wiring to the speakers and had a problem with the rears just not working or sounding right. I finally traced it to a plug somewhere inside the car going to the rear speakers where on one side of it, two wires were swapped resulting in one channel being hooked between both channels positives while the other was across both grounds. It amazes me now that the amp didn't fry before I figured that out. My point is that it might not be that unusual for harnesses to be mis-wired but just swapping the sub harness is enough for everything to work with the exception that for cruise control, it's best to remove the shorting plug under the dash and plug in the clutch switch to prevent potential over revving.

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