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Top [naturally aspirated] dyno & drag #s

53K views 165 replies 45 participants last post by  racerxj220 
#1 · (Edited)
OK guys, I am now in charge of keeping track of and updating the statistics for the naturally aspirated crowd. This is a work in progress!

UPDATED 11/5/2016


Please follow this simple format to submit your info to be added:
Your name
Your cars year
Engine
Transmission
Dynograph and/or Timeslip (1/4 mile only please)




5MGE

DYNO
NAME---TRANNY---CAR YEAR---DYNO #S---DYNO TYPE---DYNO GRAPH
JT -- MT -- 1984 --215/225
Carlos Brown -- MT -- 1985 -- 193/169
Havard Bergas -- MT -- 1984 -- 168/175
tdream -- MT --1985 -- 155/162
RaptorRacing -- MT -- 1984 -- 155/155
Revvhappy -- MT --1985 -- 151/159
SupraFiend -- MT -- 1985 -- 151/151
Wesley Hetrick -- MT -- 1985 -- 147/152
Tanya Rose -- MT -- 1985 -- 144/142
kmfdmk -- MT -- 1985 -- 143/136
drjim -- MT -- 1985 --141/161 (mustang dyno)
supra toy -- MT -- 1985 -- 135/143
Supra_Devil -- MT -- 1982 -- 130/143
CanadianPsyco -- MT -- 1982 -- 116/116


DRAGS
NAME---TRANNY---CAR YEAR---TIME---SLIP---
Austin E -- MT -- 1985 -- 14.30 @ 97mph
Damon Saul -- MT -- 1982 -- 14.6 @ 94.0mph
LnumbP -- MT -- 1985 14.78 @ 93.53mph *Damon driving
Dean Anderson -- MT -- 1982 -- 15.048 @ 92.4 mph
Frank Chung -- MT -- 1985 -- 15.535 @ 88.7 mph
Wesley Hetrick -- MT -- 1985 -- 15.539 @ 88.9 mph
RaptorRacing -- MT -- 1984 -- 15.865 @ 86.56 mph
Dean Anderson -- MT -- 1983 -- 16.100 @ 84.3 mph -
Supra_Toy --MT -- 1985 -- 16.388 @ 82.5 mph --
Eric BergM --MT -- 1986 --16.389 @ 84.2 mph --
ddd228 -- AT -- 1984 -- 17.34 @ 83.07






6MGE


DYNO
NAME---TRANNY---CAR YEAR---DYNO #S---DYNO TYPE---DYNO GRAPH
Sean Chung -- MT --1985 -- 189/200
SupraFiend -- MT -- 1986 184/188
Aaron Ingles -- MT -- 1985 -- 171/162
Tanya Rose -- MT-- 1985 -- 168/180
Damon Saul -- MT -- 1985 -- 167/174
MKIISupraman -- MT-- 1982 -- 158/168
Donnie Spears -- MT-- 1985 -- 155/166





DRAGS
NAME---TRANNY---CAR YEAR---TIME---SLIP---
Damon Saul -- MT -- 1985 -- 14.0 @ 97mph
Eurosupra1 -- MT -- 1984 -- 14.783 @ 93.6 mph
Graham Haring -- MT -- 1985 --15.417 @ 89.9 mph
Tanya Rose* -- MT -- 1985 -- 15.54 @ 87.9mph *Aaron Garney driving
Zankone -- MT -- 1984 -- 16.032 @ 85.6 mph
HCogeHC -- MT -- 1985 -- 16.668 @83.4 mph



7MGE
DYNO
NAME---TRANNY---CAR YEAR---DYNO #S---DYNO TYPE---DYNO GRAPH
Tire Shredder -- MT -- 1984 -- 189/199

DRAGS
NAME---TRANNY---CAR YEAR---TIME---SLIP---
Johnathan Stone -- MT -- 1984 -- 14.787 @ 93.29mph
Cartman -- MT -- 1984 -- 14.804 @ 92.5 mph
Tire Shredder -- MT -- 1984 -- 14.85 @ 93.75 mph


2JZGE

NAME---TRANNY---CAR YEAR---DYNO #S---DYNO TYPE---DYNO GRAPH



1UZFE
NAME---TRANNY---CAR YEAR---DYNO #S---DYNO TYPE--DYNO GRAPH
 
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#62 ·
Don, no idea on the car's weight. I do know there is some reinforcment in the roof (I have seen with my own eyes) in the sunroof cars that mine does not have. Motor and class may weight a bit too, but I am not sure on the difference.

i'd imagine the 7m did a add a bit of weight over the 5m as the intake is more complex, the crank has a little more stroke...I'd guess the heads weigh about the same. I do not no the difference though, it's probably not too significant...I didn't notice a handling change with the swap.

it is a potent combo at the autocross. I need some performance tires now as I am spinning my wheels through the whole course if I am being aggressive. I'll post results from sunday's autocross when they are available.
 
#63 ·
Ahhh yes, traction limited. Stuff of dreams for me :)

Try R-comp tires? If you're ok with the lower gearing, go with 275/35-15 race tires. They are 2" shorter in height than stock, so you will have even more giddyup out of turns, but the lower center of gravity is nice, and light weight too. Better choice might be the 245/45-16 races tires available from Hoosier (A6) and Kumho (V710). Great tires, will be a huge diff over any street tires, and keeps overall diameter of tire same as stock. Wheelwell clearances will be a bit tight, I think the 245s will fit better and rub less (depending how low you go).

But with such power, it would be awfully fun to put that power to the pavement!

Don L.
 
#64 ·
traction is fine on the street in second gear, it spins through first. Toss the car into a corner in 2nd and open up the throttle, it's drift-city. of course, being smooth and gentle such as the driving you can do on a road course, this is not an issue... but you don't have such luxuries in an autocross (as you well know).
 
#72 ·
Looking at your a\f numbers there Carlos makes me think I'm pretty close to you right now as I'm also finding that my new motor is actually leaning out on the top end. My frickin LM1 just died on me when I tried to wideband my car but my plugs are on the white side after hard runs so I must be doing something right because most 5m\6ms in the sub 170rwhp range are still running pig rich on the top, and I've got 210cc injectors in there too right now.
 
#73 ·
Seamus,

I started with the 210cc/min Injectors, but swapped the 182's back in. The AFR with the 210's was major rich at the bottom end - as it still is with the 182's. What I ended up doing was pulling the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator, and backing the pressure down to about 30 PSI. This may have affected my spray pattern a little, but it allowed me to get the AFR's at the higher RPM's that I wanted.

The motor is a stock motor with new rings... That is about it!

I did not post the 185 graph. That was Sean Chung (Frank) with his 6MGE w/stand-alone. I had more power in the motor, but just decided to not spend the time with it, given my plans. About everytime I headed out to the dyno it started snowing, and my MKII is not a snow car. Not even a rain car - not even a cold weather car...

Regards,

Carlos
 
#74 · (Edited)
Dyno Disappointment!

Gentlemen (& Lady),

Well, I am finished with the 5MGE, although perhaps prematurely! I finally made it to the dyno after having removed the AFM from the motor. I Did not hit the 200 RWHP mark, bummer...

Last month I finally initiated the install of the SDS stand-alone computer. Since then I have spent most of my time trying to get familiar with the system and the programming. This was a fairly difficult thing to do since I am running the Gude cams. I began with a MAP based program, which works great when the engine vacuum changes in a linear fashion from idle to WOT (-28.1 to -0.16inHg). Since the vacuum curve on the Gudes starts at low vacuum (-10.5") and increases around 2,200 RPM (-18.0") and then begins to decrease again (-0.16"), the Gudes are not good candidates for MAP based programs. I therefore ended up using a TPS based program which is really only good for race applications.

Another of my frustrations was with the SDS ignition. I had previously been running a Jacobs electronic ignition, which was very HOT! The SDS utilizes GM (General Motors) coil-packs, which are not so hot! With the Jacobs ignition I was running 0.055-0.060" plug gap with no mis-fire. With the coil packs I needed to gap the plugs to 0.035" to avoid high RPM misses... I fear that this gave HP back, but I have never substantiated this with dyno proof. Russell, next year we need to do this!

So, where did I end up? Well, suffice it to say that the SDS & Gude combination was hard, on both, me and the car. Somewhere along the line I severly compromised one of the adjustable cam gears, which ended up cutting my dyno efforts short. This ranks pretty high on my "wasted $400" list!"

In the end, I had spent so much time wrestling with the set-up, that I ended up doing very little tuning - particularly given the deteriorating weather conditions and of course the cam gear failure.

So, with my basically stock 5MGE, I walk away with 193.41 HP - 169.23 TQ. For those interested, I will list the engine mods and graphs below...

MODS: RC Intake, DT Header, 2.5" exhaust, 70mm TB, SDS stand-alone, P&P head, no/AFM, 210cc/min Injectors, Gude cams, stock head gasket, stock bore, stock compression, stock valves, adjustable cam gears (kind of).

For those awaiting parts, disassembly will begin this week...

Best Regards,

Carlos

 
#75 ·
I want to see video/audio of a 5m winding out to 7200 and making power doing it!

Well done, sorry to hear about the shortcomings of the SDS on a cam'd car.

Looks like losing the AFM gained you ~12rwhp and ~10rwtq at 6500rpm.
...sadly it didn't gain much anywhere else. The power bump from 4000rpm to 5500rpm is due more to fuel ratio changes.

Good info, glad you shared.

--billyM
 
#77 ·
BillyM,

I never really considered getting any video or audio while dynoing. I figured everyone would be familiar with the sound of a high RPM 5MGE.

I am curious about the difference that the AFR actually made from 4,000 to 5,500 RPM. If we assume that the AFR was responsible for the power increase from 4,000-5,500 RPM, then I would also expect to see a similar measureable gain from 3,300 to 4,000 RPM, particularly given the difference in fuel ratios at that point...

I would like to keep moving forward with this development, but I have a 2jz that is waiting to be swapped in...

Regards,

Carlos
 
#78 ·
Woohooo!2j!

I don't fully trust that wideband reading. A poorly calibrated wide band can be spot-on at stoich, but absolutely off (50-100% off) towards the extremes (sub-11:1) which will have greatly exaggerated AFR's shown but little overall impact (the slope of that curve suggests ~8:1 at ~3600rpm on the old dyno, and you would have HUGE visible power loss compared to the newer dyno plot if it were accurate)

(also, if one of the mods could replace artm's image in post 55 with a link to it, that'd be great!)

--billyM
 
#80 · (Edited)
Aaron,

I did notice during one of my tuning sessions that I was running greater than 93% duty cycle at 7,000 RPM, with the 210 cc/min Injectors - I never checked the final rate. At that point I was running my max fuel pressure at 36-37 PSI. So, I just bumped up the pressure so to affect the Injector rate.

I am running a standard Paxton fuel pressure regulator. I now have it set at an idle pressure of 36-37 PSI. At full throttle the pressure approaches 45 PSI.

The 210cc/min unit effectively became a ~232cc/min unit. Not the ideal solution, but I thought it would be enough to get me to 200 HP (at 85% duty cycle) and also get me through the process... I did not go back to check the final duty cycle numbers.

Since I had not yet used the 295's, I decided not to install them for this finale...

Regards,

Carlos

 
#81 ·
Hey Carlos, thanks for your efforts and sharing of info. Those are impressive numbers, especially on the top end. Is that basically what the Gude cams do, move the power band up about 1k rpm, and bump the peak numbers up too? I'm sure with some time you could get the a/f numbers below 4.5k rpm in line, and improve those power numbers too.
Your motor definitely seems like fun to rev up!

I guess we will wait for Frank (Sean C.) to try for the 200hp mark. Probably with cams he can get the peak numbers up there, but not sure how useful the powerband would be for his needs. His 6m is strong, not far off the mark.

Good luck with your 2jz project, looking forward to updates!

Don L.
 
#82 ·
DonL,

Thanks Don! Yes, with a little more work I am certain that I could still have hit the 200 HP mark, particularly considering that I have done so little with the ignition and timing curves. I would also need to investigate the fuel supply issue a little more.

The Gudes do move the power band up by at least 1,000 RPM. It definitely breaths better up top, as you have noticed. It is very strong from 4,000 to off throttle. I am thinking though that the HP numbers should still be rising above 6,600 RPM.

Don, I did not really have any problems adjusting fuel where I needed it, I just needed to leave it very rich at the bottom since I was running a TPS based program at the time. It is a horrible program for a street car since the fuel values are based on TP setting. You can easily have various loads at one TP setting, but your fuel input remains the same. I left it rich down low so I could drive it without going too lean from take-off...

I am going to have to do a little more investigation regarding the coil-packs before I am truly happy with them.

By the way, I have not hooked up my coil yet. Where did you get your signal wire from?

P.S Frank has expressed interest in purchasing the Gude cams from me...

Regards,

Carlos
 
#83 ·
Hi Carlos, here's a copy of the wiring between my MSD 6AL , coil, and the 8910 tach adapter. The blue wire from SDS triggers the MSD. Not sure if that is what you mean by
signal wire. Hope this helps. Maybe coilpacks wire up different? Frank will need those cams, some valve work, and a few more mystery ponies to run with the top cars in our Street Modified class out here. Not far off, doesn't need 500hp to be with the leaders :)



I believe that TPS based program is a pain to run streetwise. I guess I'm lucky to be limited to stock cams. MAP sensor program is easy.

Don L.
 
#85 ·
Wicked Carlos, I know 200rwhp was your car goal but thats a pretty damn ambitous goal for an internally stock 5m. You should be hugely proud of what you've accomplished, the highest I've seen on any 5m built or not was 185rwhp and that was on a motor supposedly built by Greddy and professionally tuned.

10+hp gain from the AFM delete is pretty good. With the lousy A\F numbers below 5500rpm you really can't compare the two graphs, I'm sure with good numbers on both runs the gains from the AFM delete would have been more significant.

I take it that 182rwhp run with the AFM was recent (same day as the 193 one?) and had the Gude's installed at the time as well? Your 178rwhp run was without the Gudes right?

Good job man, way to raise the bar and good luck with your 2jzge project :)
 
#86 ·
Seamus,

Each of the last three or four times at the dyno have been with Gude cams. Three of the last four times were with various levels of modified AFM's. I first ran a baseline with an unmodified AFM and then went to 2-levels of modification. I would just take several AFM's to the dyno with me and change them out.

Everytime I changed the AFM I increased power. The graph comparison I posted are of my last run with AFM, just prior to removing it completely.

I would like to spend some additional time tuning the new computer and optimizing it, but it just does not make sense given where I am headed...

Regards,

Carlos
 
#88 ·
Tanya,

I borrowed an unmodified AFM from a local member and all the others were bored out. I ruined a few of them by opening them up too much. The last one I modified had such a light spring pressure on it when I was done, that you could just tilt the AFM and the door would open. It ran great though!

Through it all, I learned quite a bit about the function of the AFM...

P.S. I still have the last AFM I modified and calibrated (so-so). If someone is interested in running it, let me know. Tanya, would you be interested in running it on your 6M, it is junk to me? It is plug-n-play and would have to be run as is... It is from an 1986 MKII.

Regards,

Carlos
 
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