Let's do this... slowly (Canadian 85P restore) - Page 3

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  1. #21
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Ok, getting into the harder stuff now. Finished this section off last week.

    I actually have donor metal for this car that I got off a super low miles rust free car from a wrecker, a total anomaly up here, so I took every usable part off the car (link), but the car was hit in the DS rear quater so I had to fabricate the replacement panels.








    As you can see the flare still fits nice, its quite tricky making everything line up when you have to replace 3 separate pieces from scratch at once. Its very handy to have an intact car around to look at and measure when doing this. Obviously its not going to look phenominal till the bodywork stage is done, and any area that will be covered by flare doesn't need to be asthetically perfect.

    The other side poses its own challanges, stay tuned.
    Last edited by SupraFiend; 04-20-2010 at 02:36 AM.
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  3. #22
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Alright, long overdue for an update here. Just finishing off the passenger side rear quater and the gas tank area. This is probably the trickiest section to fix on these cars due to how the panels are formed and how the gas tank passes through.

    Here's the exposed damage...


    But the gas cap area on the inside has absolutly no undercoating...


    To start, we cut out the perforated section, this requires peeling back the lower rear valance panel...




    Next, there were signs that the rust on the back of the inner gas cap lid chamber had spread through to the other side. That complicates things as the only way to fix it is to remove the inner chamber panel, which can only be done if the outer chamber panel is removed first....




    With the panels out I was able to sandblast them and clean them up nicely off the car and treat the rust on car that was previously unaccessable...



    Now luckily I had donor metal for this area. I've figured out how I would do this without it, but it is certainly a little simpler with...



    But wait, nothing is ever that simple. This sheet metal is off a car with only 88,000kms on it, that obviously was garage kept and appeared to be 100 percent rust free. But unfortunatly, any Celica Supra that has lived in even a moderatly wet climate and hasn't had a rigourous undercoating job is not truely rust free. Toyota really didn't put enough effort into sealing up these cars. You can see that the drain hole rusted around the rubber plug, but more alarming you can just barely see that rust has already started on the inner sections of this panel that we can't access. There's only one way to fix this...


    Once the thing is seperated, the rust can be fixed and the panel reassembled (the rusted area for the plug was replaced too, the plug isn't necesary, theres another little one on the bottom that doesn't rust out)





    Once its back together, you can use seam sealer to fill ALL of the panel seams so it won't rust out again.

    Now with the donor metal all fitted and prepped, its time to weld it all in.



    On the inside I had to remove and recreate the mounting tab for the wheel liner...


    Then on the areas that were highly suseptible to the rust returning I POR15ed them...



    Last reattach the outter gas cap chamber, a bit of self etching primer, some sealer and that about takes care of this corner (except a little bodywork later on of course)...








    Thats the last of the rust behind the shock towers, next up is any rear tower and floor pan damage.
    Last edited by SupraFiend; 03-03-2010 at 12:43 AM.
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  4. #23
    CelicaSupra.com Member MrTechNIC's Avatar
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    Wow, nicely done!
    I love to see great work in progress,
    thanks for sharing,
    Nic
    Moved on to other suff.

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  6. #24
    CelicaSupra.com Member jjbenzo's Avatar
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    I love these type of threads. Great work so far! Can't wait to see your final work.
    85 Toyota Celica Supra 7MGTE, Super Deep Red-Current
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  7. #25
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Unfortuantly it may be awhile before we can post pretty pictures of the car all painted and fully reassembled as Dean hasn't determined yet when he's going to have the paint portion of the restoration done. My end of things will wrap up in the next month or so and the bodywork will be all done, the repaired areas primered and ready for paint and some basic reassembly, but the car will be going into storage for at least a year before the paint work. I may be doing that as well, depends on availablity and all when Dean is ready.

    Thanks for the compliments though, and there will be many more updates soon!
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  8. #26
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Time for another update.

    Check my last post, I just added 4 new pics to the end of it. Sometimes I add pics of the repair with the final primer work and sealant applied later on as I like to give the primer a day to dry before I apply the sealant as it tends to disolve the primer if it hasn't cured abit. I also will not apply paint or primer overtop of the sealant untill its cured overnight as it shrinks a little when it fully dries.

    Alright, next up rear seatbelt buckle mount area...



    Doesn't look too bad right? This is the underside and the cause of the problem...


    At first glance it looks like a single plate spot welded to the floorpan but infact its 2 plates, and the middle one is spot welded to the frame rails. And of course theres no sealant from the factory around any of the seams, so it creates a nice rust sandwhich as dirt and water can get in between the plates and rot out the spot welds. Lets see what it looks like inside...

    hmmm, going to have to go deeper...






    So as usual, what you see on the outside is rarely the worst of it. The actual exposed damage was very minimal, but infact most Supras look like this or worse once you open them up. Note how little the exposed damage was on the DS, yet on the inside it was almost as bad as the other side.

    So the middle panel on the PS was rotted straight through in a couple spots so I replaced it with new metal completely, and then sand blasted and primered the other panels...

    Note in this pic the gas tank mounting hardware in the top right, which I've removed (luckily they bolt off) and also sandblasted, soon to be POR15ed.

    Next up the rust on the car was ground off or the metal removed if the rust was too deep...



    Its pretty simple after that, weld it all back together with generous portions of weld thru primer (I use this awesome silver high build stuff that is very durable) and then seal it up with seam sealer...



    And thats about it, it will never rust again here. If only Toyota had taken a couple minutes to seal these panels up properly at the factory. Once all the metal work is done the bottom of the car will get scrubbed spotless and get a full proper undercoating, and it will all look very factory and brand new.

    Things are going quick now, look for another update soon!
    Last edited by SupraFiend; 03-23-2010 at 03:21 AM.
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  9. #27
    CelicaSupra.com Member Deanfun's Avatar
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    excellent
    Dean L.
    1985 Toyota Supra - Hidden Content
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  10. #28
    CelicaSupra.com Member DRAGON84's Avatar
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    What brand seam sealer is that ?

  11. #29
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    http://www.proformproducts.com/en/pr.../detail/?id=81

    Good stuff. The black sealer I was using before was a different brand (Domestic Sure Seal, great products normally from these guys) and I didn't like how hard it was drying to, this stuff stays about as flexable as the stock sealer. Its a little runnier going on which can be handy but does make it messier, however its pretty easy to work with and is the most similar to the stock stuff I've tried yet.

    Alright, another little update.

    Here's a super common rust spot, still in very early stages on this car...


    This is the top of the rear wheel well. So why does it rust? Because of this little reinforcment panel they weld on underneath in the wheel well...


    You can see the ends are not sealed in so it allows dirt and water to get at the spot welds underneath and rust out the well. I don't think I've ever owned a mk2 that didn't have this spot. Luckily, the DS was actually completly sealed up by the factory undercoating...

    So nothing to do there, the rust always comes from underneath. Alright, lets get into it...


    With the reinforcement panel removed we can see what we're working with.



    I had to remove a bit of both well panels. Almost got away with just grinding off the rust on the outer one but the metal got too thin in one spot once I ground it all off.

    So unfortunatly this spot is one of only a few on the car that is boxed in. What I mean is there are braces under the window that seal in the cavity that I've opened up. Here's a shot of the brace from inside the panel...


    There is no good access to the back of the sheet metal I've cut out. This is a problem as welding burns up the paint on the other side of the sheet metal and you need to recoat it when your done if you want to avoid rust in the future. This is why so many DIYer or average bodyshop rust repairs end up rusting out again. You really need to think of how your going to repair a spot so that you'll have access to both sides of the metal before its done so you can seal it up properly. This is why I welded on the new bottom plate first...


    I was able to get a little paint in there through the upper hole, but it wasn't enough. Your options at this point are try and spray the back side with some of that wax inner panel protectant stuff (which I really dislike) through a wd40 style straw, or add some access panels...


    Since this patch bridges that brace I had to add two (ignore the little hole in the center). Hole saws are great. You can see the burnt sections inside that were previously unaccessable. It was tight working through those little holes, but it was doable...


    I managed to paint and seam seal the entire patch seam and then some through the new access holes. Obviously these holes will be covered up by the interior and they are too small to weaken the structure of the car.

    And heres a few shots of the rest of the sealer work, the way it should have been from the factory...

    And the top too for insurance...


    The next update is gonna be scary, for everyone. The area I'm attacking next is probably the area that rusts the most undetected, and is rusty on just about every mk2. Its also one of the areas that can kill one of these cars for good if the rust goes unchecked for too long. Stay tuned.
    Last edited by SupraFiend; 03-23-2010 at 03:36 AM.
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  12. #30
    CelicaSupra.com Member SupraFiend's Avatar
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    Ok, its time for a serious one. This is the symptom...


    Thats the inside of the rear wheel well, Driver Side. Of more concern to most, is what the PS shows (which we'll focus on first)...


    Thats it, almost nothing. Obviously this rust is coming through the other side, which looks like this...


    Here's the flaw. Theres 3 layers of metal spot welded together, and no seam sealer. The undercoating usually covers the top and side edges of the outermost sheet, but the bottom is always left open. Sometimes on a really heavy aftermarket undercoating job the seam gets filled, but pretty rarely as the gaps are really large. You can see the bottom seam better in this next one, where I've wire wheeled off the undercoating...


    You can see there was rust on the right side hiding under the undercoating.

    Another problem is there's only paint in the upper spring seat area so the spot welds tend to rust...


    Alright, that outer panel has to come off. The trick is figuring out where the rust ends so you don't take more off then necesary (its alot of work drilling out these spot welds, that outer panel is some of the thickest sheet metal on entire body).



    And the real damage is exposed. That inner panel had to have a chunk replaced.


    And then weld the outer panel back on after sandblasting, treating the rust with metal prep and zinc primering it...


    Last seam seal any and all seams that could allow moisture at the welds...



    Now back to the DS, which is a good example of how rust in this area can become a serious problem if it goes unchecked for too long. A little chiping at the undercoat revealed the damage on the outside.


    Its got to come apart...


    Thats not even all of it as the middle layer is hiding more, so its got to go too...


    You can see that the spring mount piece is really heavily corroded, perforated a little even, I had to take chunk out of it too...


    One little rust area can be alot of work, it takes 3 pieces to put this all back together properly...


    The outer piece is very thick so again I was able to sandblast it and treat it and then reuse it, which helps alot.

    The spring seat gets its patch in first...


    Then the middle layer...


    And last the original outer layer...


    And finally the primer and sealer and its good untill the undercoating stage (which I'll do all at once after all the metal work is done)...




    So in conclusion, its vitally important that the seam at the bottom of these 3 panels gets sealed up on cars that havn't rusted yet, the trick is telling if its started inside or not. This is one of Toyota's biggest oversites on these cars if you ask me, the gaps are huge and its in a very sensitive place. Many a mk2 has been sent to the scrapper due to severe rust from this oversight.

    Its getting close, its pretty much just the front outer sections of the rear wheel wells now. Thanks for reading.
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