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Thread: My DIYPNP N52 Kit Write Up
04-25-2010, 12:54 AM #1
My DIYPNP N52 Kit Write Up
READ THIS OVER AND OVER FIRST
Wish I would read it sooner. but somehow I managed to do moste everything correctly without even reading it...woops.
Alright, I will be editing this frequently as I re read and write and read and write to be the most useful. So...Here we go. Feel free to post question IN THIS THREAD...please do not fill up my pm box. If I left something out (other than what I stated as being left out due to not getting tech support on the weekend) please let me know. I probably did it and just spaced writing it.
ALSO.... Just to make it clear I have the Version 1.5 board.
Check what board you have first as some things are a little different.
Philips screw driver
small wire snips
magnifying glass (really helpful for double checking solders)
And something for de-soldering. I used a cheapo "desolder bulb" from radioshack.
This is VERY important. Set up a GOOD work space. Good lighting, space, seating. Lay paper down. a cheap piece of posterboard is great. Helps make sure you see pieces.
I would highly recommend practicing soldering and un-soldering components on a mother board. Tear apart an old cd player or radio or something. Get the feel, find your technique. I found this super helpful as I have never soldered before.
So it begins. It is a little daunting at first when you open the package. There are ALOT of components. Until you get them laid out, and just look/inspect everything, it will seem like it is really difficult, but after looking through, youll find it is quite simple where everything goes and how to do it. It is very clearly labeled (except for a select few things which will be mentioned later).
Best thing to do, is just to lay your packages out, and start. I started with the resistors, there are ALOT of them, but its simple work. I moved to capacitors, then bigger pieces, then plugs, and I did the jumper wires last. Everything is pretty self explanatory once you get it all laid out and browse through it. There are a few things on the board that are CURRENT FLOW SPECIFIC. meaning the positive and negative leads go a certain way on the board. It is labeled tho and easy to see. Just something to watch out for.
Pay attention on the bands on the diods and the board. They ARE direction specific.
U5, Q7, Q11, Q12, and Q17 all need to be installed on the underside of the board. If you look on the bottom, you'll see a silver heatsink pad for each of the transistors to rest on. These transistors do have a proper orientation, so getting them on the bottom side against the heatsink ensures that they're installed correctly and will prevent them from shorting against other components.
Here are my pictures:
Unloaded and Laid out
1st Resistor put on
Soldered (snip off the excess)
More resistors put on
Soldered and Snipped.
Lots more put on
Capacitors Put on
Map sensor and power jack added
Main board pretty much assembled (2 or 3 small components not on there as I need to confirm with technical support their exact locations)
Plug Clip on adapter board
Thats pretty much it for the resistors, capacitors and specialty components. Not too much too it, they are labeled clearly and its pretty easy. Just tedious work. I recommend getting a magnifying glass to make sure no solders blob onto other. Make sure circuits/paths are clear on the bottom side.
Now its onto the Jumper wires to connect the adapter board to the main board.
This is not too difficult either as its all laid out pretty clearly on DIYautotune.com
I think keeping the wires tidy might be the toughest part and I kinda gave up. I just went down the list, left enough slack so each wiring could move enough they wont interfere with other holes but not soo much that they get all tangled and mushed together in the case.
More pictures. The captions are the connections made. Main board listed first, adapter board second.
VR IN+ -----B13
VR IN- -----B16
VR2 IN+ -----B14
Jumper A13 Directly to A21 on the adapter board.
GND-----C10 (same picture as above)
You will be jumpering the IG1 that is right above the 12v outlets to the C3 adapter board port.
Other than the few question I had. Here it is....assembled.
Here is another good reason to cover your workspace in paper, to write things down as you go...write down your jumpers, write down your questions..or things you questioned while doing it. Just helps to keep things noted where it happend.
Working pictures. Thanks to momma.
my sweet shirt I got as part of my deal with DIYautotune.com. THANKS JERRY!!!!
a cold beverage is nice while your working. BUT DONT SPILL lol.
So thats it for now.
Like I said. I will be fine tuning this as soon as the DIY guys call me back monday morning...
I am hoping this helps out push some of you over the edge to getting this kit. The assembly ISNT THAT BAD at all.
Mention me (Scott Hagood) when you order the kit too, that would be sweet
Glad I had the opportunity for this.
i found a jumper wire that DIY had INCORRECT.
They ask to jumper the "o2" from the main board to pin A24 on the adapter board.
THAT DOES NOT CORRESPOND WITH THE o2 COMING INTO THE CAR
On my 85, the o2 port on the main board needs to be jumped to the B2 port. Completely different plug. This would explain why I wasnt getting my o2 sensor reading.
Alright so the issues I was having with the IAC was because there are 10 wires to hookup for it, not just the four wires listed in the table...
in addition to
Stepper output 1A to B8
Stepper output 1B to B17
Stepper output 2A to B18
Stepper output 2B to B9
next to the 1a 1b 2a 2b spots,
there is a 5v, 12v, GND
These will get jumperd to the corresponding spots along the bottom edge of the main board.
Then you have the
PT6, PT7, and PB4, these are in the same header on the adapter board as the above pins, these get connected to the corresponding holes on the top of the main board near the db9 connector.
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04-25-2010, 01:00 AM #2
Getting Firmware onto your DIYPNP::::
Plug in your ECU to your computer, dont power up yet.
Open up your downloaded folder (the download pack from DIYautotune.com)
Click the "download-MS2-firmware" file
Little black box pops up on screen.
Follow on screen instructions. Pretty dang easy.
Next step is to get it connected and setup with TunerStudioMS.
I could go through all the steps, but it would be redundant.
Once you get it connected, its startup/base map and tuning time. Unfortunately, the msq file offered by DIYautotune.com does not work with the new firmware so your on your own starting from scratch. I am trying to work with them to at least post tables of the settings and VE tables to at least help out...we will see what happens.
04-25-2010, 01:00 AM #3
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04-25-2010, 01:46 AM #4
Holy crap that looks like fun. I'd buy one just to build it, lol. Nice write up, I am sure I will reference this someday.Silver 85 P-type Auto. 272,000 miles on chassis
5mge built by Chimp, Bored .30 over
04-25-2010, 02:55 AM #5
You do know the little black things with a little gray on them that look like resistors are diodes, right? The current can only flow one way through them, so it DOES matter which way they get soldered in. Just thought you might want to double-check that, to head off any future problems. You probably already knew that though, but didn't want to chance something going wrong later because I didn't speak up. Nice work!!
Edit: Whew! It was done right. Way to go! You look all professional sitting there in gloves and a factory sponsored t-shirt. Nice work layout!
Last edited by Road Ripper; 04-25-2010 at 03:26 AM. Reason: To not complicate this informative thread. :)Hidden Content
Dan (DragonLady's husband) *RIP Tyler (2yo son lost to cancer)
1986 P-type (Ruffian) black 6M 5 speed (formerly Lexusboy's), sitting.
1986 P type MKII 2tone night blue met/silver met. 5MGE auto, waiting for summer.
2005 Dodge Magnum Magnesium Pearl - new family car!
2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Charcoal, family/stuff hauler
04-25-2010, 02:58 AM #6
Thank you for pointing that out.
Everything that is current flow specific is labled on the piece and on the board.
Something definitely to pay attention to. But yes it was done correctly when I assembled.
04-25-2010, 03:03 AM #7
Let us know how it goes man!-'85 Celica GTS
-'83 P-type 5M-GE-Sold.....then destroyed last I heard...
-'77 Dodge D200, 318 -Sold
-73 Gran Torino Wagon. RIP.
04-25-2010, 06:36 PM #8
better hope it works1985 supra 66,000 miles 7mge, to many mods to list
04-25-2010, 07:24 PM #9
Looks good. I went with the 3.57 assembled, I did not want to take any chances. Only difference in the end really is that I had to make a wiring harness. Good job. Love the pictures.85 Supra, Red, Auto, 300k. Chimpy 6M. MHG & ARPs. 60-1 Trim, Stainless Lines, Q45 Brakes, 16's, Al Rad+E fan, Oil kit and cooler, MSD 6a + Accel Coil ms2 3.57... Air shocks and coil overs in the works.. Maybe a mk3 trans next........
04-25-2010, 09:29 PM #10
- Join Date
- Apr 2003
- esterhazy sask
it says u5 is to be installed on the underside of the board i done the same as u dont know if it will make a difference
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