READ THIS OVER AND OVER FIRST
http://diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs1_5/main_assembly.html
Wish I would read it sooner. but somehow I managed to do moste everything correctly without even reading it...woops.
Alright, I will be editing this frequently as I re read and write and read and write to be the most useful. So...Here we go. Feel free to post question IN THIS THREAD...please do not fill up my pm box. If I left something out (other than what I stated as being left out due to not getting tech support on the weekend) please let me know. I probably did it and just spaced writing it.
ALSO.... Just to make it clear I have the Version 1.5 board.
Check what board you have first as some things are a little different.
Tools...
Soldering Iron
Solder
Philips screw driver
small wire snips
wire strippers
small pick
magnifying glass (really helpful for double checking solders)
And something for de-soldering. I used a cheapo "desolder bulb" from radioshack.
Work Space...
This is VERY important. Set up a GOOD work space. Good lighting, space, seating. Lay paper down. a cheap piece of posterboard is great. Helps make sure you see pieces.
PRACTICE!!!
I would highly recommend practicing soldering and un-soldering components on a mother board. Tear apart an old cd player or radio or something. Get the feel, find your technique. I found this super helpful as I have never soldered before.
Assembly...
So it begins. It is a little daunting at first when you open the package. There are ALOT of components. Until you get them laid out, and just look/inspect everything, it will seem like it is really difficult, but after looking through, youll find it is quite simple where everything goes and how to do it. It is very clearly labeled (except for a select few things which will be mentioned later).
Best thing to do, is just to lay your packages out, and start. I started with the resistors, there are ALOT of them, but its simple work. I moved to capacitors, then bigger pieces, then plugs, and I did the jumper wires last. Everything is pretty self explanatory once you get it all laid out and browse through it. There are a few things on the board that are CURRENT FLOW SPECIFIC. meaning the positive and negative leads go a certain way on the board. It is labeled tho and easy to see. Just something to watch out for.
Pay attention on the bands on the diods and the board. They ARE direction specific.
U5, Q7, Q11, Q12, and Q17 all need to be installed on the underside of the board. If you look on the bottom, you'll see a silver heatsink pad for each of the transistors to rest on. These transistors do have a proper orientation, so getting them on the bottom side against the heatsink ensures that they're installed correctly and will prevent them from shorting against other components.
Here are my pictures:
Workspace
Unloaded and Laid out
1st Resistor put on
Soldered (snip off the excess)
More resistors put on
Soldered and Snipped.
Lots more put on
Capacitors Put on
Map sensor and power jack added
Main board pretty much assembled (2 or 3 small components not on there as I need to confirm with technical support their exact locations)
Plug Clip on adapter board
Thats pretty much it for the resistors, capacitors and specialty components. Not too much too it, they are labeled clearly and its pretty easy. Just tedious work. I recommend getting a magnifying glass to make sure no solders blob onto other. Make sure circuits/paths are clear on the bottom side.
Now its onto the Jumper wires to connect the adapter board to the main board.
This is not too difficult either as its all laid out pretty clearly on DIYautotune.com
http://diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/n52/usdm-toy-supra-8586-5mge-mt.html
I think keeping the wires tidy might be the toughest part and I kinda gave up. I just went down the list, left enough slack so each wiring could move enough they wont interfere with other holes but not soo much that they get all tangled and mushed together in the case.
More pictures. The captions are the connections made. Main board listed first, adapter board second.
IAT------A17
CLT-----B10
TPS-----B5
O2-----A24
VR IN+ -----B13
VR IN- -----B16
VR2 IN+ -----B14
FUEL PUMP-----A16
INJ1-----C9
INJ2-----C4
12V----A2
12V-----(A13-A21)
Jumper A13 Directly to A21 on the adapter board.
VREF-----A15
SG-----A12
SG-----B1
GND-----A11
GND-----C2
GND-----C5
GND-----C10 (same picture as above)
IGN1-----C3
You will be jumpering the IG1 that is right above the 12v outlets to the C3 adapter board port.
Other than the few question I had. Here it is....assembled.
Here is another good reason to cover your workspace in paper, to write things down as you go...write down your jumpers, write down your questions..or things you questioned while doing it. Just helps to keep things noted where it happend.
Working pictures. Thanks to momma.
my sweet shirt I got as part of my deal with DIYautotune.com. THANKS JERRY!!!!:thumbsup:
a cold beverage is nice while your working. BUT DONT SPILL lol.
So thats it for now.
Like I said. I will be fine tuning this as soon as the DIY guys call me back monday morning...
I am hoping this helps out push some of you over the edge to getting this kit. The assembly ISNT THAT BAD at all.
Mention me (Scott Hagood) when you order the kit too, that would be sweet:thumbsup::thumbsup:
:salute::salute:
Glad I had the opportunity for this.
i found a jumper wire that DIY had INCORRECT.
They ask to jumper the "o2" from the main board to pin A24 on the adapter board.
THAT DOES NOT CORRESPOND WITH THE o2 COMING INTO THE CAR
On my 85, the o2 port on the main board needs to be jumped to the B2 port. Completely different plug. This would explain why I wasnt getting my o2 sensor reading.
Alright so the issues I was having with the IAC was because there are 10 wires to hookup for it, not just the four wires listed in the table...
in addition to
Stepper output 1A to B8
Stepper output 1B to B17
Stepper output 2A to B18
Stepper output 2B to B9
next to the 1a 1b 2a 2b spots,
there is a 5v, 12v, GND
These will get jumperd to the corresponding spots along the bottom edge of the main board.
Then you have the
PT6, PT7, and PB4, these are in the same header on the adapter board as the above pins, these get connected to the corresponding holes on the top of the main board near the db9 connector.
here:
http://diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs1_5/main_assembly.html
Wish I would read it sooner. but somehow I managed to do moste everything correctly without even reading it...woops.
Alright, I will be editing this frequently as I re read and write and read and write to be the most useful. So...Here we go. Feel free to post question IN THIS THREAD...please do not fill up my pm box. If I left something out (other than what I stated as being left out due to not getting tech support on the weekend) please let me know. I probably did it and just spaced writing it.
ALSO.... Just to make it clear I have the Version 1.5 board.
Check what board you have first as some things are a little different.
Tools...
Soldering Iron
Solder
Philips screw driver
small wire snips
wire strippers
small pick
magnifying glass (really helpful for double checking solders)
And something for de-soldering. I used a cheapo "desolder bulb" from radioshack.
Work Space...
This is VERY important. Set up a GOOD work space. Good lighting, space, seating. Lay paper down. a cheap piece of posterboard is great. Helps make sure you see pieces.
PRACTICE!!!
I would highly recommend practicing soldering and un-soldering components on a mother board. Tear apart an old cd player or radio or something. Get the feel, find your technique. I found this super helpful as I have never soldered before.
Assembly...
So it begins. It is a little daunting at first when you open the package. There are ALOT of components. Until you get them laid out, and just look/inspect everything, it will seem like it is really difficult, but after looking through, youll find it is quite simple where everything goes and how to do it. It is very clearly labeled (except for a select few things which will be mentioned later).
Best thing to do, is just to lay your packages out, and start. I started with the resistors, there are ALOT of them, but its simple work. I moved to capacitors, then bigger pieces, then plugs, and I did the jumper wires last. Everything is pretty self explanatory once you get it all laid out and browse through it. There are a few things on the board that are CURRENT FLOW SPECIFIC. meaning the positive and negative leads go a certain way on the board. It is labeled tho and easy to see. Just something to watch out for.
Pay attention on the bands on the diods and the board. They ARE direction specific.
U5, Q7, Q11, Q12, and Q17 all need to be installed on the underside of the board. If you look on the bottom, you'll see a silver heatsink pad for each of the transistors to rest on. These transistors do have a proper orientation, so getting them on the bottom side against the heatsink ensures that they're installed correctly and will prevent them from shorting against other components.
Here are my pictures:
Workspace
Unloaded and Laid out
1st Resistor put on
Soldered (snip off the excess)
More resistors put on
Soldered and Snipped.
Lots more put on
Capacitors Put on
Map sensor and power jack added
Main board pretty much assembled (2 or 3 small components not on there as I need to confirm with technical support their exact locations)
Plug Clip on adapter board
Thats pretty much it for the resistors, capacitors and specialty components. Not too much too it, they are labeled clearly and its pretty easy. Just tedious work. I recommend getting a magnifying glass to make sure no solders blob onto other. Make sure circuits/paths are clear on the bottom side.
Now its onto the Jumper wires to connect the adapter board to the main board.
This is not too difficult either as its all laid out pretty clearly on DIYautotune.com
http://diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/n52/usdm-toy-supra-8586-5mge-mt.html
I think keeping the wires tidy might be the toughest part and I kinda gave up. I just went down the list, left enough slack so each wiring could move enough they wont interfere with other holes but not soo much that they get all tangled and mushed together in the case.
More pictures. The captions are the connections made. Main board listed first, adapter board second.
IAT------A17
CLT-----B10
TPS-----B5
O2-----A24
VR IN+ -----B13
VR IN- -----B16
VR2 IN+ -----B14
FUEL PUMP-----A16
INJ1-----C9
INJ2-----C4
12V----A2
12V-----(A13-A21)
Jumper A13 Directly to A21 on the adapter board.
VREF-----A15
SG-----A12
SG-----B1
GND-----A11
GND-----C2
GND-----C5
GND-----C10 (same picture as above)
IGN1-----C3
You will be jumpering the IG1 that is right above the 12v outlets to the C3 adapter board port.
Other than the few question I had. Here it is....assembled.
Here is another good reason to cover your workspace in paper, to write things down as you go...write down your jumpers, write down your questions..or things you questioned while doing it. Just helps to keep things noted where it happend.
Working pictures. Thanks to momma.
my sweet shirt I got as part of my deal with DIYautotune.com. THANKS JERRY!!!!:thumbsup:
a cold beverage is nice while your working. BUT DONT SPILL lol.
So thats it for now.
Like I said. I will be fine tuning this as soon as the DIY guys call me back monday morning...
I am hoping this helps out push some of you over the edge to getting this kit. The assembly ISNT THAT BAD at all.
Mention me (Scott Hagood) when you order the kit too, that would be sweet:thumbsup::thumbsup:
:salute::salute:
Glad I had the opportunity for this.
i found a jumper wire that DIY had INCORRECT.
They ask to jumper the "o2" from the main board to pin A24 on the adapter board.
THAT DOES NOT CORRESPOND WITH THE o2 COMING INTO THE CAR
On my 85, the o2 port on the main board needs to be jumped to the B2 port. Completely different plug. This would explain why I wasnt getting my o2 sensor reading.
Alright so the issues I was having with the IAC was because there are 10 wires to hookup for it, not just the four wires listed in the table...
in addition to
Stepper output 1A to B8
Stepper output 1B to B17
Stepper output 2A to B18
Stepper output 2B to B9
next to the 1a 1b 2a 2b spots,
there is a 5v, 12v, GND
These will get jumperd to the corresponding spots along the bottom edge of the main board.
Then you have the
PT6, PT7, and PB4, these are in the same header on the adapter board as the above pins, these get connected to the corresponding holes on the top of the main board near the db9 connector.
here: