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My DIYPNP N52 Kit Write Up

51K views 101 replies 30 participants last post by  guido 
#1 · (Edited)
READ THIS OVER AND OVER FIRST
http://diyautotune.com/diypnp/docs1_5/main_assembly.html
Wish I would read it sooner. but somehow I managed to do moste everything correctly without even reading it...woops.

Alright, I will be editing this frequently as I re read and write and read and write to be the most useful. So...Here we go. Feel free to post question IN THIS THREAD...please do not fill up my pm box. If I left something out (other than what I stated as being left out due to not getting tech support on the weekend) please let me know. I probably did it and just spaced writing it.

ALSO.... Just to make it clear I have the Version 1.5 board.
Check what board you have first as some things are a little different.


Tools...

Soldering Iron
Solder
Philips screw driver
small wire snips
wire strippers
small pick
magnifying glass (really helpful for double checking solders)
And something for de-soldering. I used a cheapo "desolder bulb" from radioshack.

Work Space...
This is VERY important. Set up a GOOD work space. Good lighting, space, seating. Lay paper down. a cheap piece of posterboard is great. Helps make sure you see pieces.

PRACTICE!!!
I would highly recommend practicing soldering and un-soldering components on a mother board. Tear apart an old cd player or radio or something. Get the feel, find your technique. I found this super helpful as I have never soldered before.

Assembly...
So it begins. It is a little daunting at first when you open the package. There are ALOT of components. Until you get them laid out, and just look/inspect everything, it will seem like it is really difficult, but after looking through, youll find it is quite simple where everything goes and how to do it. It is very clearly labeled (except for a select few things which will be mentioned later).
Best thing to do, is just to lay your packages out, and start. I started with the resistors, there are ALOT of them, but its simple work. I moved to capacitors, then bigger pieces, then plugs, and I did the jumper wires last. Everything is pretty self explanatory once you get it all laid out and browse through it. There are a few things on the board that are CURRENT FLOW SPECIFIC. meaning the positive and negative leads go a certain way on the board. It is labeled tho and easy to see. Just something to watch out for.
Pay attention on the bands on the diods and the board. They ARE direction specific.

U5, Q7, Q11, Q12, and Q17 all need to be installed on the underside of the board. If you look on the bottom, you'll see a silver heatsink pad for each of the transistors to rest on. These transistors do have a proper orientation, so getting them on the bottom side against the heatsink ensures that they're installed correctly and will prevent them from shorting against other components.


Here are my pictures:

Workspace


Unloaded and Laid out


1st Resistor put on


Soldered (snip off the excess)



More resistors put on


Soldered and Snipped.



Lots more put on


Capacitors Put on


Map sensor and power jack added


Main board pretty much assembled (2 or 3 small components not on there as I need to confirm with technical support their exact locations)


Plug Clip on adapter board


Thats pretty much it for the resistors, capacitors and specialty components. Not too much too it, they are labeled clearly and its pretty easy. Just tedious work. I recommend getting a magnifying glass to make sure no solders blob onto other. Make sure circuits/paths are clear on the bottom side.

Now its onto the Jumper wires to connect the adapter board to the main board.
This is not too difficult either as its all laid out pretty clearly on DIYautotune.com
http://diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/n52/usdm-toy-supra-8586-5mge-mt.html

I think keeping the wires tidy might be the toughest part and I kinda gave up. I just went down the list, left enough slack so each wiring could move enough they wont interfere with other holes but not soo much that they get all tangled and mushed together in the case.

More pictures. The captions are the connections made. Main board listed first, adapter board second.


IAT------A17



CLT-----B10



TPS-----B5


O2-----A24


VR IN+ -----B13


VR IN- -----B16


VR2 IN+ -----B14


FUEL PUMP-----A16



INJ1-----C9


INJ2-----C4


12V----A2



12V-----(A13-A21)
Jumper A13 Directly to A21 on the adapter board.

VREF-----A15


SG-----A12


SG-----B1


GND-----A11


GND-----C2


GND-----C5


GND-----C10 (same picture as above)


IGN1-----C3
You will be jumpering the IG1 that is right above the 12v outlets to the C3 adapter board port.


Other than the few question I had. Here it is....assembled.





Here is another good reason to cover your workspace in paper, to write things down as you go...write down your jumpers, write down your questions..or things you questioned while doing it. Just helps to keep things noted where it happend.






Working pictures. Thanks to momma.




my sweet shirt I got as part of my deal with DIYautotune.com. THANKS JERRY!!!!:thumbsup:


a cold beverage is nice while your working. BUT DONT SPILL lol.



So thats it for now.

Like I said. I will be fine tuning this as soon as the DIY guys call me back monday morning...

I am hoping this helps out push some of you over the edge to getting this kit. The assembly ISNT THAT BAD at all.

Mention me (Scott Hagood) when you order the kit too, that would be sweet:thumbsup::thumbsup:


:salute::salute:

Glad I had the opportunity for this.


i found a jumper wire that DIY had INCORRECT.

They ask to jumper the "o2" from the main board to pin A24 on the adapter board.

THAT DOES NOT CORRESPOND WITH THE o2 COMING INTO THE CAR

On my 85, the o2 port on the main board needs to be jumped to the B2 port. Completely different plug. This would explain why I wasnt getting my o2 sensor reading.



Alright so the issues I was having with the IAC was because there are 10 wires to hookup for it, not just the four wires listed in the table...

in addition to
Stepper output 1A to B8
Stepper output 1B to B17
Stepper output 2A to B18
Stepper output 2B to B9

next to the 1a 1b 2a 2b spots,
there is a 5v, 12v, GND
These will get jumperd to the corresponding spots along the bottom edge of the main board.

Then you have the
PT6, PT7, and PB4, these are in the same header on the adapter board as the above pins, these get connected to the corresponding holes on the top of the main board near the db9 connector.

here:

 
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#56 ·
got my 85 running on megasquirt today after school. i had a problem with the firmware as well. the version of tunerstudio doesnt like the 3.03u firmware that they give u in the download package. or the start up map that they give u off of the diypnp website. as scott had already mention although i have come accross an easy way around this. download the ms2 3.03s firmware off of the msextra.com website load it onto the megasquirt. check ur comport that you have installed it correctly. u should type in the letter s and it should give u a response like megasquirt II version 3.03s or something like that. if it gives u a code like 0bx redo it again u done something wrong. ok now unhook ur megasquirt download the startup map and unzip the whole program into another folder. now open up the firmware folder and click on the the readme file and follow the instructions. go into open saved msq and open the file u just unzipped it will give you some errors ignore them all its because they were built on different firmwares click save as and name it whatever you want. close tunerstudio plug in your megasquirt and open up tuner studio again. now open the program you just saved it wont give you any errors this time and will ask you if you want to burn it to you megasquirt click yes. now you have the start up map on your diypnp. this saves some hassles from copying all the information over. maybe this will help some of you i dont know how much of this was explained already but figured id tell you anyhow.


anyhow it runs but it runs rough threw all rpms. and burns black im going to see if i can adjust the timing map or something...
 
#58 ·
i just set it up on my 85 auto its completely stock since im in school and my other car is four hours away. i have a wide band in my other car and will tune it a little better on that one since i cant really drive this one as the megasquirt wont control the shift patterns and cant get into over drive. i lowered the fuel maps and the ignition timing and got it worlds better then before i dont know alot about the software side of things but the maps are definately A START UP and thats about all its good for is a start
 
#63 ·
and the maps are so far out i can tell when a car is running better not worse have u ever adjusted a carburator? or a vacuum advanced distributor withought a timing light or a wideband? or a dyno? or a computer? id suggest u start there widebands are for fine tuning and the start up map is set up to use a narrowband oxygen sensor so... lol all you want lol
 
#64 ·
well if it makes u feel better about runing my motor for a few moments runing rich on my N/A motor im happy to let u know i removed the computer from my car and am running the stock computer sooo... ive had enough of this
 
#65 ·
running rich is not of concern...its trying to get rid of the black rich smoke and running lean and not having a keen ear or not really listening for pinging, then running too lean and ruining stuff.

just trying to prevent un needed rebuild...
just wait till you get it on a car with a wideband.
 
#66 ·
ya man its risky but i never ran it for very long i just assembled it here and had to find out if the thing was actually going to work after all the effort i put into it. and it seems to be everything i imagined it to be so far, i cant wait to install the 440cc injectors i picked up and source out a good ct-26 to slap on the exhaust manifold and intercooler and stuff. up here in saskatchewan there is slim pickings for supra parts
 
#67 · (Edited)
Question was/is really more for the help thread so I'll move it there... I think I am just about done with assembly though.

As long as I did everything right I think I am officially done assembling... Took my sweet time and probably have 10 hrs into it... I told you I took my sweet time... If I did another I could more than likely get it done in half that time.











 
#72 ·
easiest way to do it is hook up the wideband, then run the 5v signal that would go to the ms2 out through the firewall and hook it to the stock o2 wire. then you dont have to cut or splice anything. going to be doing this on a friends foxbody mustang soon. he is buying all the stuff needed currently.
 
#71 ·
IIRC all I did was take the output signal of the wideband kit and wire it going into the DIY where the factory 02 would go, then Just adjust the settings to be looking for the wideband (bigger voltage range).

So internally to the ECU you wont do anything. Just install it in the car then cut the o2 wire in the harness and wire your wideband into it.
 
#73 ·
I have the diypnp built and have tried it in the car a few times. It did start the car on the first try, and it stopped the car on its own too. Not a big deal, it just needs some tuning...I think.

At first when I powered up the ecu it sounded like a relay would buzz for half a second, anyone experience this?

Now I am not getting a tach signal at all, just sync errors on the composite logger in tunerstudio. I am also not getting the buzz when I turn the ecu on anymore.

I checked the resistance on the VR pickups in the distributor and they are good.

Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
#77 ·
is it a buzzing? or is it the fuel pump priming? when i turn the key on, the fuel pump runs for a couple seconds to prime the fuel lines. you can hear it easily in the car with everything off.
 
#78 ·
I also installed the adjustable resistor in R39 and nothing in R21. Adjusted while cranking until I got a signal and fine tuned. So did anyone figure out how to have the fuel pump just prime when the key is first turned on and not just constantly run? Sounds like you did william.
 
#79 · (Edited)
the ms2 controls the fuel pump by grounding the trigger wire. what i did was wire a relay in to feed power to "sta". the power source to the relay also powers the coil side of the relay. and the fuel pump trigger from the ms2 is the ground for the coil side of the relay.



so heres how the pinout goes for the relay.
pin30= +12v
pin86= +12v
pin85= megasquirt fuel pump trigger wire
pin87= sta on the circuit opening relay.

iirc this was all i had to do.

 
#80 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I ended up installing a 20K resistor in R21 and now I am getting a good rpm signal. The buzzing is gone now, so I am not sure what it was...

Now I am trying to get the idle speed control valve working. So far I have not figured that part out. I am just beginning my search though.
 
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