RHR: 7M-GTE PnP wiring guide

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  1. #1
    CelicaSupra.com Member Lee_MA61's Avatar
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    RHR: 7M-GTE PnP wiring guide

    To start off, I've been building harness for cars for years now. Be it the Supra or not. So to help community out a bit, I'm going to let this intellectual/trade secret go. I've spent hours and hours on end in testing/development. However without this community I wouldn't have came about it. I'll let you decided if you'd rather make it yourself. Or if there is enough interest I will start to make them again. Until then here's what you've all been asking for.

    Notes**
    <*> Random House Racing MA61-7MG PnP V.3
    <*> 86-88 -- Yellow Plug Ecu (some early 89s) SHOWN
    <*> 89-92 -- Gray Plug Ecu SHOWN
    <*> Alternator Kit NOT shown
    <*> Tacho. Kit NOT shown
    <*> Safe Fuel Trigger NOT shown

    What you need:
    - Basic wiring tools (Strippers, soldering iron, heat shrink, wire)
    - 5M ecu or junk 52 pin Nippon denso (10-18-24) ecu
    - 5M E1 male connector Engine harness side
    - 7M B1 Female connector Dashboard side
    - 7M M1 Female connector Dashboard side

    86-88 -- Yellow Plug Ecu (some early 89s)

    Step 1: Step up of plugs

    Open up your Spare 5M Ecu and remove the large connector. Easiest way is to cut the plastic tabs holding it to the PCB board. then wiggle the Plug back and forth until it pops loose. Next de-pin the casing and cut down to just the 24-pin section seen here.



    De-pin the rest of the connectors E1, B1, M1. Save the pins as you'll need a few of them. With the pins you've saved remove the old wire by opening up the centres. Everyone has their on method of doing it. I use a set of needle nose and a set of dikes lightly prying. Now set those aside and move on to the next step.

    Step 2: Assembling the unit

    First determine how long you want your sub-harness to be. then cut all your wires to that length. It's a little easier to have them ready to go. All diagrams are setup as Pins facing you wires away.

    All the hard work has been done, now you just need to follow the colour coded charts I have supplied. Simply connect each represented colour from one connector to it's corresponding mate. I can go through and do what I did for the 2JZ-G(T)E PnP guide if people would like more explanation. However I don't feel it's necessary at the moment. Connect the dots!

    *Tip on soldering the ECU connector pins. Wrap/roll the wire over the pin, it seems to hold best. Solder (use flux it's real nice), slide shrink wrap over, lightly bend pin out of the way, continue tell finished. I recommend heating the shrink wrap after you've completed the ecu block. For the other pins you've removed simply slide new wire in, crimp, and add a little solder to the system to solidify the hold. Heat shrink isn't needed but recommend, it will make sliding the pins into place a little more difficult (worth it).

    THE DOTS!









    The Gray block in the last picture is going to be your Tachometer wire lead. This you'll have to connect to a MSD or similar device before running to your tachometer.

    What it should look similar to when it's done.



    Step 3: Relocation

    This step is pretty much the easiest you have to relocate 3 wires in order for the car to start now. First is to supply power to the Injectors and Coil, second is to provide a signal to the Main Relay, third is to provide the ecu with battery power when the car is off.

    De-Pin the Black/Orange wire from the middle of the B1 connector. You'll want to move it so it'll reach your old power supply for either the Injector resistor or the Ignition Coil. To make this plug and play you de-pin the single pin connector that once attached there and slide the 7M wire into it. Now you can remove the 6-pin connector in the engine bay. DONE.



    The last two are the same concept from above. Below will be a connect the dots style diagram. The wire colours will be Black/Orange M-Rel and Black/Yellow BATT. This will remain in the same spot on the 7M ecu plug but will be moved to the MALE side of the B1 connector on the engine harness. DONE.





    90-92 -- Gray Plug Ecu

    Step 1: Step up of plugs

    Open up your Spare 5M Ecu and remove the large connector. Easiest way is to cut the plastic tabs holding it to the PCB board. then wiggle the Plug back and forth until it pops loose. Next de-pin the casing and cut down to just the 24-pin section seen here.



    De-pin the rest of the connectors E1, B1, M1. Save the pins as you'll need a few of them. With the pins you've saved remove the old wire by opening up the centres. Everyone has their on method of doing it. I use a set of needle nose and a set of dikes lightly prying. Now set those aside and move on to the next step.

    Step 2: Assembling the unit

    First determine how long you want your sub-harness to be. then cut all your wires to that length. It's a little easier to have them ready to go. All diagrams are setup as Pins facing you wires away.

    All the hard work has been done, now you just need to follow the colour coded charts I have supplied. Simply connect each represented colour from one connector to it's corresponding mate. I can go through and do what I did for the 2JZ-G(T)E PnP guide if people would like more explanation. However I don't feel it's necessary at the moment. Connect the dots!

    *Tip on soldering the ECU connector pins. Wrap/roll the wire over the pin, it seems to hold best. Solder (use flux it's real nice), slide shrink wrap over, lightly bend pin out of the way, continue tell finished. I recommend heating the shrink wrap after you've completed the ecu block. For the other pins you've removed simply slide new wire in, crimp, and add a little solder to the system to solidify the hold. Heat shrink isn't needed but recommend, it will make sliding the pins into place a little more difficult (worth it).

    THE DOTS!










    The Gray block in the last picture is going to be your Tachometer wire lead. This you'll have to connect to a MSD or similar device before running to your tachometer.

    What it should look similar to when it's done.



    Step 3: Relocation

    This step is pretty much the easiest you have to relocate 3 wires in order for the car to start now. First is to supply power to the Injectors and Coil, second is to provide a signal to the Main Relay, third is to provide the ecu with battery power when the car is off.

    De-Pin the Black/Orange wire from the middle of the B1 connector. You'll want to move it so it'll reach your old power supply for either the Injector resistor or the Ignition Coil. To make this plug and play you de-pin the single pin connector that once attached there and slide the 7M wire into it. Now you can remove the 6-pin connector in the engine bay. DONE.



    The last two are the same concept from above. Below will be a connect the dots style diagram. The wire colours will be Black/Orange M-Rel and Black/Yellow BATT. This will remain in the same spot on the 7M ecu plug but will be moved to the MALE side of the B1 connector on the engine harness. DONE.






    THE END


    You'll have to figure out the way to turn on the fuel pump. There are unsafe ways of doing this which I cannot recommend as I won't be sued. I believe this a pretty concise guide which will get you through all the wiring woes. ALT plug wiring and everything else is easy. I may post those at a later date. If there is something that isn't clear let me know and I'll widen the picture on the subject.

    For Inquiries Contact [email protected]

    Good luck and thanks!

    -Leon Wilson
    Random House Racing
    Last edited by Lee_MA61; 01-28-2011 at 11:23 AM.
    Random House Racing
    -1984 Toyota, Celica Supra P-Type Super Red (2JZ-GTE + 74mm) JZA61 Hidden Content
    -2010 GMC, Sierra 2500HD Imperial Blue Metallic (L96)

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  3. #2
    CelicaSupra.com Member 4SFED's Avatar
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    thank you kind sir - yours is a little different than mine. I am going to take it and run with it and never look back.
    Dave Harrison

    current lineup and year acquired:

    '85 white Mark2 7mgte 5sp 1988
    '85 white Mark2 7mgte Auto 2009
    '84 maroon Mark2 6mge 5sp 2013
    '86 red Mark2 7mgte 5sp 2016
    '85 black Mark2 6m Frankenmotor 5sp 2017

  4. #3
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Leon =
    MegaSquirted 62mm 7m @ 20psi on 91 octane
    410whp/411ftlbs

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  6. #4
    CelicaSupra.com Member HansBF109's Avatar
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    Posting in a heroic thread.
    "Id rather you didn't search my car officer"

  7. #5
    CelicaSupra.com Member ihateu3's Avatar
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    Very good decision Leon! This may ruffle some feathers around here, but I believe you made the right decision. Thanks for giving back to the community! Random House Racing FTW!!!!!
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  8. #6
    CelicaSupra.com Member Lee_MA61's Avatar
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    Thank you all! means a lot.

    4FSED, if there is anything you'd like to contribute that could make this better I would be more then happy to incorporate it. This is the communities now so why not have it influenced by it.
    Random House Racing
    -1984 Toyota, Celica Supra P-Type Super Red (2JZ-GTE + 74mm) JZA61 Hidden Content
    -2010 GMC, Sierra 2500HD Imperial Blue Metallic (L96)

  9. #7
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    Awesome stuff... Thank you... Now just wish it was for the 91 7mgte auto / 84auto combo. Currently wiring that at the moment.

  10. #8
    CelicaSupra.com Member
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    Leon, nice work. If I get time, I'll go over it with more than a cursury look, and compare to what I do. I just so happen to have brought a couple books and my main diagrahm with me, as I have 2 auto cars back home to wire.

    @ ihate ..... I'll guess the feathers you thought would be ruffled, are mine. Tell you what ... Leon got no help from me, he's free to do what he wishes, with HIS information. Leon also, has a known working system, and, will be there for trouble shooting if time is available, others, that have posted mis-information, didn't do that.

    That said, it's a good thing for the community. I already said I'd not build them again for the community,and I'll stand by those words. The time and effort involved is not worth the pittance most are willing to pay.
    Shawn > Junkie < 83 Ltype 7mgte/a340 swap, 84 Ptype 7mgte and 20k original miles on the chassis, 85 Ptype Blue Hard top, basicaly stock. 82 Ltype, auto ... not home yet, but another added to the stable.

  11. #9
    CelicaSupra.com Member OkieRA29's Avatar
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    Leon, thank you very much! This is a great help. Of course, my cressida is completely different wiring wise, but the concept is the same. The 89-91 PNP would be helpful for me only if to double check that I got the JDM to USDM harness conversion correct!! I will refer often to this thread when I get to the actual install part. Again, thanks very much for posting this.
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    So before someone lights you up like neon under a honda civic,do some research
    76 RA29 20R cam and weber
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  12. #10
    CelicaSupra.com Member Lee_MA61's Avatar
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    Shawn, thank you and you are right on the money. If you have anything you'd like me to add just PM me and I'll add it. You are after all the guru of wiring as far as I'm concerned.

    OakieRA29, no problem. I'll post the 89-91 stuff here soon when I get some motivation. haha and for the cressida stuff I'm sure it wouldn't take long to make a sub section that address the MXxx series chassis. I'll see what I can dig up when I get around to the 89-91 7M-GTE stuff.

    -Leon
    Random House Racing
    -1984 Toyota, Celica Supra P-Type Super Red (2JZ-GTE + 74mm) JZA61 Hidden Content
    -2010 GMC, Sierra 2500HD Imperial Blue Metallic (L96)

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