6MGE thread (JDM inside)

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\r\n Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend\r\n View Post\r\n
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Frakenmotor: Ugh, don\'t use the 7m timing sprocket or oil seal, use the 5m ones! This commonly posted misinformation screwed me when I built my motor. The 5m sprocket works just fine on the 6m crank, and puts the timing belt and crank pulley right where it needs to be with the 5m inner timing cover. The diameter of the insert of the 5m sprocket is different then that of the 6m or 7m sprocket, you will end up with a giant oil leak if you use the wrong seal. The 7m & 6m crank pullies both work just fine with the 5m sprocket. The 6m timing sprocket is unique to the 6m, it has the length of the 5m sprocket with the insert diameter of the 7m sprocket and requires the 7m oil seal.
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I ran into this problem last year while changing my timing belt.
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\r\nOne of my 6m timing sprocket\'s belt guide fell off during removal. I needed a replacement so I had my machining friend shorten a 7m timing sprocket. The photos below is a length comparison between a 7m timing sprocket (LEFT) and a 6m timing sprocket (RIGHT).
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\r\nIf you ever need a 6m timing sprocket, buy a 7m timing sprocket, have a machine shop shorten it and install the sprocket with 7m oil seal.\r\n
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Matt
\r\n1985 Super White 6MGE 5-speed
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    \r\n Good info Seamus, thanks!\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[794319] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Tanya,
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    \r\nThank you for this (and the other contributors as well). A friend of mine has the 6M conversion and I like it a lot. Not sure if I will be doing it, but it\'s good to have a go-to source if I decide to. My car has just a tad less than 55K miles so there is no immediate need to do anything but enjoy it (car arrives on Monday. Thanks again.\r\n
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    1985 Toyota P-Type Celica Supra 5MT
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  • \r\n'; pd[794343] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by KenHenderson\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Tanya,
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    \nThank you for this (and the other contributors as well). A friend of mine has the 6M conversion and I like it a lot. Not sure if I will be doing it, but it\'s good to have a go-to source if I decide to. My car has just a tad less than 55K miles so there is no immediate need to do anything but enjoy it (car arrives on Monday. Thanks again.
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    Good to hear from you again Ken! So when are YOU gonna get a mk2 again?
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    \nOnly 55k miles? Your friend has a long time to wait before a 6M swap/conversion *should* become "necessary" LOL\r\n
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    \r\n1985 P-type 5 speed
    \r\n6MGE
    10 years strong 4-20-08
    \r\n1984 L-type Auto - Bone stock & broken Hidden Content
    \r\nacquired 6/17
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  • \r\n'; pd[794435] = '\r\n
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    \r\n New Zealand and Australia never got 6M powered cars from new, only imported used from Japan late 80s onwards...
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    \nI think that means 6M cars were only ever sold new in Japan.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[794464] = '\r\n
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    \r\n anyone got a pic of where the 6m stamp is on that timing cover? ive got lots of covers to go through to find the original one from my 86.\r\n
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    william
    \r\nBlack 84 7mgte/R154, MS2, truetrac, bbk, etc...soon to have 2jzgte and t56
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  • \r\n'; pd[795088] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Ok, maybe I do...
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[1212841] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Update: For future reference, you may also find the 6m cover you need from an \'85 5mge, depending on build date.
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by SupraFiend\r\n View Post\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by SilverMk2\r\n View Post\r\n
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    According to the EPC the Mk2 was switched over to the 6M cover in Feb 1985. My car made in June had one IIRC.
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    Dave Harrison
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    \r\ncurrent lineup and year acquired:
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    \r\n\'85 white Mark2 7mgte 5sp 1988
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  • \r\n'; pd[795086] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Not off hand, but its on the outside of the case near the hole. Its completely covered when the crank pulley is installed.
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    \r\nHaha, yeah we did the exact same thing when we first discovered that 6m stamping too. "We got a 6m!!" Check the block, "aawwwww".
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    \r\nThought it was a fluke at first, that the factory just used the wrong part on that motor or that someone had replaced the cover, then when I built my 6m I went through all the trouble of removing that same cover from the car I had originally discovered it on, then noticed my 86\'s original motor had it too when I got home lol.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[795119] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Ok i got information in first post updated... I think I got all of it. Let me know if I missed anything \r\n
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    \r\n1985 P-type 5 speed
    \r\n6MGE
    10 years strong 4-20-08
    \r\n1984 L-type Auto - Bone stock & broken Hidden Content
    \r\nacquired 6/17
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  • \r\n'; pd[795224] = '\r\n
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    \r\n I know a lot of members (like myself) will probably have questions as to how to run a 6M with 5M components, should definitely post quick links or even do a quick how to on here. \r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[796905] = '\r\n
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    \r\n you forgot to post the compressor clutch info i posted so you can use a 5mge compressor with a 7m damper.\r\n
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    william
    \r\nBlack 84 7mgte/R154, MS2, truetrac, bbk, etc...soon to have 2jzgte and t56
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    \r\nBlack 86 Triple Weber 6m Eventually
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  • \r\n'; pd[796906] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Done. Sorry about that William.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[797081] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Er, maybe I am reading that wrong but from what I got out of it is that you CAN use a 5M sprocket on a 6M crank.....
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    \r\n \r\n Frakenmotor: Ugh, don\'t use the 7m timing sprocket or oil seal, use the 5m ones! This commonly posted misinformation screwed me when I built my motor. The 5m sprocket works just fine on the 6m crank, and puts the timing belt and crank pulley right where it needs to be with the 5m inner timing cover. The diameter of the insert of the 5m sprocket is different then that of the 6m or 7m sprocket, you will end up with a giant oil leak if you use the wrong seal. The 7m & 6m crank pullies both work just fine with the 5m sprocket. The 6m timing sprocket is unique to the 6m, it has the length of the 5m sprocket with the insert diameter of the 7m sprocket and requires the 7m oil seal.\r\n \r\n
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    \nLooks to me like you would use a 5M sprocket along with a 5M front main seal and all is well? Why bother having a 7M sprocket machined?\r\n
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    \r\n
    \r\n1985 P-type 5 speed
    \r\n6MGE
    10 years strong 4-20-08
    \r\n1984 L-type Auto - Bone stock & broken Hidden Content
    \r\nacquired 6/17
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  • \r\n'; pd[797116] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Tanya\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Er, maybe I am reading that wrong but from what I got out of it is that you CAN use a 5M sprocket on a 6M crank.....
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    \nLooks to me like you would use a 5M sprocket along with a 5M front main seal and all is well? Why bother having a 7M sprocket machined?
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    Yes, 5M sprocket works. It really depends on what harmonic balancer you use. The 5M has the longer snout on the back of the harmonic balancer that fits inside of the 5M crank timing sprocket. The true 6M and 7M/7MGTE harmonic balancer has a very short stub on the back, and it butts up to the flat outer surface of the timing sprocket. I think to use a 5M crank timing sprocket with a 6M or 7M harmonic balancer, a spacer would have to be machined to fit inside and between the 5M timing cog and the harmonic balancer.\r\n
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    Hidden Content
    \r\nDan (DragonLady\'s husband) *RIP Tyler (2yo son lost to cancer)
    \r\n1986 P-type (Ruffian) black 6M 5 speed (formerly Lexusboy\'s), sitting.
    \r\n1986 P type MKII 2tone night blue met/silver met. 5MGE auto, waiting for summer.
    \r\n2005 Dodge Magnum Magnesium Pearl - new family car!
    \r\n2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Charcoal, family/stuff hauler
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  • \r\n'; pd[797139] = '\r\n
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    \r\n ^^^This. The 6m has the short stub on the harmonic balancer and wouldn\'t work with the 5m timing sprocket. Definitely not a direct fit.
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    \nThe 7m timing sprockets are readily available from Toyota. For me, it was easier to have the 7m timing sprocket shorten to the 6m timing sprocket\'s height instead of buying a 5m timing sprocket and machining an additional spacer.
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    \nI suppose if you have a spare 5m timing sprocket lying around you could try the spacer route.\r\n
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    \r\n \r\n Last edited by fatpanda; 12-24-2012 at 05:47 PM.\r\n \r\n \r\n Reason: Fixing English.\r\n \r\n
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    Matt
    \r\n1985 Super White 6MGE 5-speed
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  • \r\n'; pd[797514] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Incorrect. I\'m running the 5m sprocket on my 6m crank with a 7m crank pulley, it all works perfectly. However, I can\'t say for sure if I ever test fitted my 6mge crank pulley, but I\'m guessing it would fit exactly the same (and I probably did test fit it, I just don\'t remember for sure).
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    \r\nYou guys are correct about the design differences between the sprockets, I too was thinking that it was going to be a problem. But the 7m pulley snout was bigger then the hole in the 5m sprocket so it butted up against it just fine. Approx 15,000kms on this motor and countless autoxes and no issues in that department.
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    \r\nAlso FYI, next time that outer ring on a sprocket falls off, you can actually repair it. If you look at how they\'re built, the two pieces are held together by mushroomed out sections of the sprocket. If you pop the ring back on, and attack the sprocket with a wide flat bottomed punch and hammer, you can mushroom out the sprocket some more untill it fits as good it did originally. If all else fails, weld it on with a couple spot welds.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[797582] = '\r\n
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    \r\n That\'s good to know. Given that the 7m and 6m crank pulley have the same back end, we can probably assume the 6m crank will work as well. When you do change the belt and seals let us know how the setup held up.
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    \nThe outer ring on my timing sprocket had worn down way too much to consider spot welding it back together.\r\n
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    Matt
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  • \r\n'; pd[800257] = '\r\n
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    \r\n I got a little confused on the timing sprocket explanations...
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    \nIf one has 6M/7M crank & 6M crank pulley, use either the 6M timing sprocket OR use a 7M timing sprocket machined down to the length of a 5M AND use a 7M front main seal?
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    \nIf one has 6M/7M crank & 7M crank pulley:
    \n1. Use 5M timing sprocket and 7M front main seal
    \n2. Do NOT use 7M timing sprocket?
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    \nAnyone happen to have the measurements for the length of a 5M timing sprocket should one decide to machine down their 7M timing sprocket?\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[800331] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by bubblleboi\r\n View Post\r\n
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    I got a little confused on the timing sprocket explanations...
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    \nIf one has 6M/7M crank & 6M crank pulley, use either the 6M timing sprocket OR use a 7M timing sprocket machined down to the length of a 5M AND use a 7M front main seal?
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    \nIf one has 6M/7M crank & 7M crank pulley:
    \n1. Use 5M timing sprocket and 7M front main seal
    \n2. Do NOT use 7M timing sprocket?
    \n
    \nAnyone happen to have the measurements for the length of a 5M timing sprocket should one decide to machine down their 7M timing sprocket?
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    The 5M timing sprocket will work with ANY crank pulley, and just use the 5M front crank seal. The simplicity is the beauty of it.
    \nYou use the 6M or 7M crank timing sprocket if that is all you have. It takes the larger crank seal. The 7M sprocket has to be shortened, while the 6M one does not.
    \n
    \nI agree, the sprocket length measurement would be nice to have in a thread. This way if someone only has a 7M sprocket, they can have it machined without having a 5M sprocket to compare it to.\r\n
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    \r\nDan (DragonLady\'s husband) *RIP Tyler (2yo son lost to cancer)
    \r\n1986 P-type (Ruffian) black 6M 5 speed (formerly Lexusboy\'s), sitting.
    \r\n1986 P type MKII 2tone night blue met/silver met. 5MGE auto, waiting for summer.
    \r\n2005 Dodge Magnum Magnesium Pearl - new family car!
    \r\n2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Charcoal, family/stuff hauler
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  • \r\n'; pd[823633] = '\r\n
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    \r\n I see pretty much everybody saying use a 7m block. Could a 5m with a 7m crank and rods work? If so ill just use my 5m block. And I can use the 5m crank pulley, as long as I use the 5m sprocket and 5m seal, correct? Confusion kicked in...\r\n
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    If at first you don\'t succeed, call an air strike!
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    \r\n1984 P Type 5MGE 5 spd, just now getting to the restoration/modification process.
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  • \r\n'; pd[823680] = '\r\n
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    \r\n It will be obvious when you get there. It\'s really best if you have both 5m and 7m engines complete. Or at least a complete 7m bottom end.\r\n
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    1984 Celica Supra - black - sunroof - 1uz project.
    \r\n1987 Suzuki Samurai - long wheel base - flat deck project - fully locked chromolly axles w/ 3 inch lift
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  • \r\n'; pd[823742] = '\r\n
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    \r\n No, the 5m pulley doesn\'t fit the 7m crank. It can be machined to fit, but it doesn\'t really leave a lot of material, the 7m pulley is a better route.
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    \n5m block doesn\'t have reliefs for the 7m rods (longer stroke), but they can be cut in.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[823748] = '\r\n
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    \r\n So machining the block is required. I was informed that only the front was needed to be machined to fit the snout of the 7m crank.\r\n
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    \r\n1984 P Type 5MGE 5 spd, just now getting to the restoration/modification process.
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  • \r\n'; pd[823752] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Maybe, I think it depends what year the block is. Late 84-up may not need to be clearanced for the rods, because that is when the 6M first went into production. I think July is the month of the switchover to the new block. 84 is a confusing year to own (I had one!).
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    \n83CelWa put a 6M crank/rods/shaft into his overbored 5M block, so I know it can be done. With the 6M crank pulley and 5M externals, it looks just like a 5MGE!
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    \nThe front inner lower timing case needs the crankshaft hole enlarged a little for the crank snout to fit through (not the part where the seal presses in though). It doesn\'t need to be enlarged by much. The front of the block is left alone.
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    \nI know you said you have an 84, so it depends what month the engine was made. Also, if your car has a 5 speed (originally) then it has the higher compression pistons and D-shaped intake runners also known as the performance package. If it was automatic, then the engine will have the lower compression pistons and round-port intake runners (like 82-83 engines). The electronics all stayed the same for 84.\r\n
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    \r\nDan (DragonLady\'s husband) *RIP Tyler (2yo son lost to cancer)
    \r\n1986 P-type (Ruffian) black 6M 5 speed (formerly Lexusboy\'s), sitting.
    \r\n1986 P type MKII 2tone night blue met/silver met. 5MGE auto, waiting for summer.
    \r\n2005 Dodge Magnum Magnesium Pearl - new family car!
    \r\n2000 Chrysler Town & Country - Charcoal, family/stuff hauler
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  • \r\n'; pd[823837] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Is there a date stamp on the block, or do I just go by the plate on the door? And yes it is a 5 Speed with the high comp pistons and d shaped runners.\r\n
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    If at first you don\'t succeed, call an air strike!
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    \r\n1984 P Type 5MGE 5 spd, just now getting to the restoration/modification process.
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  • \r\n'; pd[823944] = '\r\n
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    \r\n well, i only have 4 front lower timing covers. none of them have the 6m on them. though i think at least 2 are for 7m\'s, they all seem to have the same size hole for the crank pulley to go through. ill measure them tomarrow, right now im just too tired to go that far into it. thinking of throwing together a stockish 6mge for the 85 since i have all the parts. 20 over 7m block, good std crank, std bearings. 20 over domed pistons and rings, several spare heads, though ill p&p one before it would go on. stock 6m crank pulley, etc... im going to use the 7m ati damper for my weber 6m build, and prolly forged pistons in a custom compression with eagle rods.\r\n
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    william
    \r\nBlack 84 7mgte/R154, MS2, truetrac, bbk, etc...soon to have 2jzgte and t56
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  • \r\n'; pd[957761] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Manvir Brar\r\n \r\n
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    \r\n Might not be a huge deal, but I ran into an issue using the 5M oil pickup, couldn\'t bolt it down cuz the flange contacts the crank.
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    \r\nYou could grind it out I guess, but I had a 7M one (already notched) laying around so I used that instead,
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  • \r\n'; pd[958377] = '\r\n
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    \r\n I\'m in the process of building a Franken-6 using a 7MGE block. I\'ll be running OE 5MGE electrics, injectors, and intake (1985) along with a Pacesetter header and CAI. I\'ve heard that some people have issues with the engine leaning out after 4500rpm. Has that been solved? I\'ve done a lot of reading about the process and have the block stripped and honed, with new pistons, rings, bearings, etc on the way. During all this reading I\'ve come across a few notes about Knock Sensors being different between the 5m and 7M, and wonder if this might be a source of any ignition or fueling problems if I use the 7M sensor with 5M ECU.
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    \nAlso, is there any difference in the heads between 82 and 85 (valve size, cam profiles and timing, head gasket design)?\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[959241] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Was that an early 5m pickup Manvir? I don\'t recall having that problem, I ran a late 5m pump.
    \n
    \nRev, no major differences in the heads, but lots with the intake of course. You should be fine with all 5m electronics, just make sure you don\'t use the factory pacesetter 02 sensor bung. The sensor needs to be directly in the exhaust stream. You will likely run rich like most every 5m with a header and boltons does.\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[972682] = '\r\n
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    \r\n http://yojiko.com/yo/ji/ko/BX/Engine...fore_and_After
    \r\nHere\'s my 6MGE
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    1985 MZ12 GT
    \r\nHidden Content - a place for projects
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  • \r\n'; pd[1212889] = '\r\n
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    \r\n That cover info made me curious. I just had to pull the lower rear cover off my 6M because of a water leak due to a crap gasket. I checked my 8/84 built 5M and it had the smaller hole outer cover as expected. But I was very surprised that its lower rear cover had the larger hole for the 6M crank nose. Checked the EPC and indeed all "85" 5M\'s do. That changeover happened 8/84. More good info to know. Yeah, in both cases, it would have only taken a few minutes to clearance either cover. But now we know which ones don\'t need it.
    \nIt was also a good opportunity to fix an oil leak due to a crap Tennessee gasket. All the seals were fine but having everything this far apart, I replaced both lower seals. I thought it was strange that the 6M had a 5M crank pulley. Fortunately, I had both seals on hand.
    \nIt also has a cork oil pan gasket. WTF???
    \nSo, in case anyone is wondering if the lower rear cover can be removed and replaced without removing the head or oil pan with the engine in the car, WITHOUT any leaks, the answer is a definite yes! I was lucky in a sense as removing the cover didn\'t result in any damage to either gasket. I very slightly beveled the top and bottom rear edges of the cover to make it easier to reinstall without damaging either gasket. Yes, it\'s a very tight fit. But I aligned it perfectly and gently persuaded it back into position without damaging anything. Ok, the gently part is a bit of a lie. I had to carefully pry it off with 2 pry bars. Once I had it far enough on to be past the lead edges of both gaskets, I used a small dead blow hammer with a wooden block to "assist" it all the way back on.
    \nI coated both the rear cover gaskets, Tennessee gasket and the front of the undamaged farging cork oil pan gasket with a very thin coat of Ultra gray after thoroughly cleaning every surface with acetone. And I reapplied FIPG at the top rear of the cover where it meets the block and head. I let the whole thing cure for a day and then added the oil and coolant. It\'s been 2 weeks and no leaks. Yeah!!!
    \nAs there\'s always been minor leaks around the oil pan and it has a pretty significant dent where the drain plug is, if I decide to drop the pan to take care of these issues, it\'ll be pretty easy to attach the cradle to hold the engine in place and drop the subframe like I did when swapping in a completely upgraded and modded front suspension, steering rack, brakes, Celica struts and steering arms and the 5 lug stuff. At least I now know why it\'s the way it is. Maybe I\'ll be lucky when I decide to drop the pan and the farging cork gasket will totally stick to the pan and not the block. Any bets?\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[1213825] = '\r\n
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    \r\n I\'ll bet you a 5 pack that the gasket WILL BE stuck to the pan and not the block,Ray.(You keep one)
    \n"Drop the pan" is a major ordeal. I did that twice in 2 months.
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    \nWhile the pan is out,see what the oil pump screen looks like. Got sludge?
    \nWeld up the oil pan after beating it into submission?Save the 1/4 turn drain plug,if possible.(I like mine,totally)
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    \nLike Tanya once said,"the 6M is a unicorn", all by it self. Just left over parts from the \'84-\'85 5MGE\'S.
    \n Then, we all say WTF?
    \n Ray,I never see you ever post photos. Is that because you have a MAC?\r\n
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    Dave in Seattle. I keep LATE hours.Hidden Content
    \r\n\'84 type "L" ,Auto ,daily driver. Dk blue.
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  • \r\n'; pd[1213865] = '\r\n
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    \r\n I have the same water leak behind the lower rear timing cover. It\'s been leaking for almost 2 years now, finally it\'s gotten to the point I have to put 1/2 gallon in every day (fill resevoir and top rad off). I am not taking any chances with head gasket sealing there so I am pulling the entire engine for a re-seal since it\'s been 9 years (on 4/20!) and she\'s got a multitude of oil seeps
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    \nI wish my engine had made it 10 years before doing this but oh well. Most other people\'s builds from around that time have already blown up so I can\'t complain too much XD\r\n
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    Hidden Content
    \r\nHidden Content
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    \r\n-shirts, stickers, posters & more!-
    \r\nHidden Content
    \r\n-more shirt styles, magnets, wallets, mugs and more!-
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    \r\n1985 P-type 5 speed
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    10 years strong 4-20-08
    \r\n1984 L-type Auto - Bone stock & broken Hidden Content
    \r\nacquired 6/17
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  • \r\n'; pd[1311139] = '\r\n
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    May 2004
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    \r\n I didn\'t see anyone posting up what belt to use with a True 6M, 6M timing Gear and 7M Supra crank pulley. I used a 4PK0925 which is a 4 rib belt. I wanted a 900(90mm long) or maybe 910, but the local shop had a 92.5mm belt in stock. This was with a 6M alternator(5M should be the same I think). It was a little on the long side, right about at the end of the tensioner, but it might actually be a good fit for both a 5M and 7M alternator in the 5M location maybe?(I didn\'t try to fit a 7M alt) I used a 4 rib belt not a 5, as I am driving it off the AC belt spot on the 7M Crank Pulley seems to line up well.\r\n
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    Supra Rehabilitator.
    \r\nBlack 86 with 7M-GTE/W58/3.58/TrueTrac, 300whp, [email protected] Now on MS3X.
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    \r\n Hidden Content Originally Posted by Tire Shredder\r\n Hidden Content \r\n
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    "surprise! this one runs 11s biatch"
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  • \r\n'; pd[1311231] = '\r\n
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    \r\n That sounds about what I run, a little shorter perhaps. Keep a spare in the car!\r\n
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    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
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  • \r\n'; pd[1312087] = '\r\n
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    \r\n For those curious and since I cannot find anything on it.
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    \n6MGE with 83 electronics: AFR runs 14.5 to 15 cruising. Off throttle engine braking is also 14.5 to 15. Doesn\'t seem to lean out as in the injectors stay closed.\r\n
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    Terra Cotta \'83 6MGE W58
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    \r\n -' + '->\r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n Reply With Quote Reply With Quote \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n -' + '->\r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
  • \r\n'; pd[1312093] = '\r\n
  • \r\n\r\n\r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n #38\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n racerxj220\r\n \r\n
    \r\n racerxj220 is offline\r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n Whistles\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n racerxj220\'s Avatar\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    \r\n
    Location
    Anywhere I want.
    \r\n \r\n
    Posts
    1,037
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n That\'s interesting. Just keeps burning fuel during decel? First efi car I ever heard that does that.\r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n -' + '->\r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n Reply With Quote Reply With Quote \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n -' + '->\r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
  • \r\n'; pd[1312249] = '\r\n
  • \r\n\r\n\r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n #39\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n SupraFiend\r\n \r\n
    \r\n SupraFiend is offline\r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n CelicaSupra.com Member\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n SupraFiend\'s Avatar\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    \r\n
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    \r\n \r\n
    Posts
    10,118
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n You sure your throttle plate is fully closing\r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    Black 86 mk2 Project Car
    \r\nNew SDR 86 mk2 Daily User, Highway Cruiser AND Parking Lot Abuser in the works!
    \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n -' + '->\r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n Reply With Quote Reply With Quote \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n -' + '->\r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
  • \r\n'; pd[1312307] = '\r\n
  • \r\n\r\n\r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n #40\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n Darrow\r\n \r\n
    \r\n Darrow is offline\r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n CelicaSupra.com Member\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n Darrow\'s Avatar\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    \r\n
    Location
    Silverdale, WA
    \r\n \r\n
    Posts
    1,586
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n Throttle plate if fully closed physically. Haven\'t checked resistance values on TPS to verify though.
    \nEdit:
    \nTPS was out of adjustment.\r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n\r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n Last edited by Darrow; 07-08-2019 at 09:18 PM.\r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n
    Terra Cotta \'83 6MGE W58
    \r\nBlack \'86 Shell
    \r\nHidden Content - Hidden Content - Hidden Content - Hidden Content - Hidden Content - Hidden Content
    \r\n \r\n \r\n
    \r\n \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n -' + '->\r\n
    \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n Reply With Quote Reply With Quote \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n\r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n \r\n -' + '->\r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
    \r\n
  • \r\n'; // next/previous post info pn[793961] = "1312307,793966"; pn[0] = ",793961"; pn[793966] = "793961,793968"; pn[793968] = "793966,793983"; pn[793983] = "793968,793984"; pn[793984] = "793983,793988"; pn[793988] = "793984,794033"; pn[794033] = "793988,793996"; pn[793996] = "794033,794038"; pn[794038] = "793996,794040"; pn[794040] = "794038,827152"; pn[827152] = "794040,794094"; pn[794094] = "827152,794124"; pn[794124] = "794094,794130"; pn[794130] = "794124,794153"; pn[794153] = "794130,794217"; pn[794217] = "794153,794405"; pn[794405] = "794217,797075"; pn[797075] = "794405,794221"; pn[794221] = "797075,794319"; pn[794319] = "794221,794343"; pn[794343] = "794319,794435"; pn[794435] = "794343,794464"; pn[794464] = "794435,795088"; pn[795088] = "794464,1212841"; pn[1212841] = "795088,795086"; pn[795086] = "1212841,795119"; pn[795119] = "795086,795224"; pn[795224] = "795119,796905"; pn[796905] = "795224,796906"; pn[796906] = "796905,797081"; pn[797081] = "796906,797116"; pn[797116] = "797081,797139"; pn[797139] = "797116,797514"; pn[797514] = "797139,797582"; pn[797582] = "797514,800257"; pn[800257] = "797582,800331"; pn[800331] = "800257,823633"; pn[823633] = "800331,823680"; pn[823680] = "823633,823742"; pn[823742] = "823680,823748"; pn[823748] = "823742,823752"; pn[823752] = "823748,823837"; pn[823837] = "823752,823944"; pn[823944] = "823837,957761"; pn[957761] = "823944,958377"; pn[958377] = "957761,959241"; pn[959241] = "958377,972682"; pn[972682] = "959241,1212889"; pn[1212889] = "972682,1213825"; pn[1213825] = "1212889,1213865"; pn[1213865] = "1213825,1311139"; pn[1311139] = "1213865,1311231"; pn[1311231] = "1311139,1312087"; pn[1312087] = "1311231,1312093"; pn[1312093] = "1312087,1312249"; pn[1312249] = "1312093,1312307"; pn[1312307] = "1312249,793961"; // cached usernames pu[0] = guestphrase; pu[621] = "Tanya"; pu[11761] = "82 Lover"; pu[14434] = "Celicasupra1983"; pu[5526] = "84ptype"; pu[15484] = "1982 Dragon"; pu[5242] = "Road Ripper"; pu[11457] = "TransAmBandit"; pu[12863] = "cmdeshon"; pu[62] = "williamb82"; pu[57] = "SupraFiend"; pu[18228] = "KenHenderson"; pu[12596] = "Rockheadjc"; pu[52] = "spud3861"; pu[14148] = "REN69"; pu[2380] = "fatpanda"; pu[15868] = "bubblleboi"; pu[17343] = "msgsupra84"; pu[13016] = "CelicaDrifts"; pu[19311] = "ra29gt"; pu[19411] = "Manvir Brar"; pu[19038] = "revvhappy"; pu[3969] = "derekjay"; pu[713] = "4SFED"; pu[16042] = "ray85p"; pu[2729] = "ddd228"; pu[1617] = "Donn29"; pu[912] = "Darrow"; pu[4799] = "racerxj220"; // -->

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    1. #34
      POTATO Tanya's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 2003
      Location
      Fort Myers, FL
      Posts
      17,179
      I have the same water leak behind the lower rear timing cover. It's been leaking for almost 2 years now, finally it's gotten to the point I have to put 1/2 gallon in every day (fill resevoir and top rad off). I am not taking any chances with head gasket sealing there so I am pulling the entire engine for a re-seal since it's been 9 years (on 4/20!) and she's got a multitude of oil seeps

      I wish my engine had made it 10 years before doing this but oh well. Most other people's builds from around that time have already blown up so I can't complain too much XD
      Hidden Content
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      1985 P-type 5 speed
      6MGE
      10 years strong 4-20-08
      1984 L-type Auto - Bone stock & broken Hidden Content
      acquired 6/17

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