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Discussion Starter #1
Alright so I picked up a 1985 Supra the other day. Aside from some cosmetics, the only problem, it appears, is that the poor thing won’t start.

Before getting mad at me and linking to other threads or the TSRM, know I’ve already been there. I’m curious to see what other people say.

I am getting no spark to the plugs at all. Replaced coil, coil is fine. Plugs and wires look fine. Anything I can physically see for the distributor cap and rotor look fine. Also spins. Tried to test everything I could with a voltage meter. Also, when I took the whole distributor out, it did spark (because I’m not smart enough to turn the key off), telling me that is getting power. At least I’d think.

That pretty much just leads me to the igniter. Before settling on the ECU at least.

Before I took the thing out to get a better look at it, I tested the two prongs with the meter. Nothing. I want to say that those go out of the igniter, not in, but maybe I’m wrong. Anyways, upon taking it out, “84 cant make the word out Supra” was written on the bottom, telling me it may have been a junkyard part.

So, I want to say the problem is the igniter. Unfortunately, the closest ‘85 igniter is 492 miles away, unless a 7m igniter will work for it.

Lastly, code is flashing 14 and 41; code 14–no IGF, code 41–throttle position sensor. The three-hole connector by the wires for the diagnostics (someone took the connector off) is also burnt and melted. In case that makes a difference. One hole connector by those also seems to have been damaged, but looks more like engine heat than anything.

The color of the wires, if it matters, does not match up from igniter to the car, though. There is also a black wire with a rubber stop over it, which, aside from the double wire plug, is the only igniter wire that matches with a car wire. I was thinking of either running a wire from it to a ground, or hook up that wire to the car-black and stop the other wire instead.

I also checked as many grounds as I could find.

Basically, all in all, I would like to see what other, much more experienced people think. I bought her as a project and am just trying to get her started before cleaning and all. I want to save this thing.
 

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It sounds like the ignitor. The plug with the rubber cap is a test plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Follow up:
Did a test on what looks like the pickup and was getting ~60 ohms instead of 140-180.

Would like to hope it’s the distributor, as a nearby yard has one for $35 and just hope it works.

However, it could still easily be the igniter. I pray it’s not that or something worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It sounds like the ignitor. The plug with the rubber cap is a test plug.
Yea I do think you may be right, but distributor pickup is reading low, too, so hopefully it is just that. If not, it’s probably both honestly.
 

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Timmy add your general location as well...sometimes theres someone local to you with that part!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also check the EFI fuse under the hood...and clean all the grounds battery to fender wall,..engine to body etc etc

There's a couple of ignitors on eBay,...

Best Offer

Fixed price....
Did replace main and EFI under the hood, and I hear two clicks when the battery is turned on.

Gonna pick up the new distributor from a yard tomorrow and hope it still works before justifying the money on a new distributor and ignitor. Spent the majority of my money on the car haha.

I'll update my profile a bit. From the Hickory are in North Carolina.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I went and tried to do some more electrical tests today...

It turns out I am not getting 12V to the connector that goes into the coil, but I would think that could still be an issue with the igniter since it goes from the igniter into the coil.

I am also getting 5V to the green and white wire going to the igniter/ECU. The other side, however, is still all over the place.

I also tested the fusible links. On the side closest to the inside of the car, they measured less than 0.4 OHMs. Same thing for the one on the top (closer to the engine). However, the one on the bottom measured OL. I'm not sure how correct any of that is, but that is what it all read as it is now.

I guess I will still try a new igniter but have no idea how I am going to end up fixing it if that does not do it.

If someone could point out where the ground to the manifold is and the ground from the igniter, that would be a big help, as I do not see either anywhere.

I would greatly appreciate some input on this, as I am just lost at this point.
 

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No power to coil verify the following. Main relay 2 powers the coil ,igniter and injectors from this relay. Start at main relay 2 and test these wires, white/red wire always 12v.(if no power bad fusible link) Ignition switch to on black/red 12v( if not 7.5 amp ignition fuse bad no power to coil of relay). If you have power out of main relay then you have a bad connection or broken wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No power to coil verify the following. Main relay 2 powers the coil ,igniter and injectors from this relay. Start at main relay 2 and test these wires, white/red wire always 12v.(if no power bad fusible link) Ignition switch to on black/red 12v( if not 7.5 amp ignition fuse bad no power to coil of relay). If you have power out of main relay then you have a bad connection or broken wire.
Did replace the relays and hear them clicking, although I should do an actual test.

Just probe the socket that they go into, or do something else to test them?
 

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lets start here. The power to feed this box is missing the 2.0 fuse link wire(blue) very important. FOR TESTING ONLY you can use a piece of 16 gauge wire. The wire on there now to large. Hook to same spot red wire is on. Now the yellow 1.0 fuse link wire needs to have connector repaired to that side.(this is why you have no power to coil,igniter and fuel injectors. Must get the blue 2.0 fuse link wire before driving car for safety.(Fires are bad)


13961
 

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Discussion Starter #14
lets start here. The power to feed this box is missing the 2.0 fuse link wire(blue) very important. FOR TESTING ONLY you can use a piece of 16 gauge wire. The wire on there now to large. Hook to same spot red wire is on. Now the yellow 1.0 fuse link wire needs to have connector repaired to that side.(this is why you have no power to coil,igniter and fuel injectors. Must get the blue 2.0 fuse link wire before driving car for safety.(Fires are bad)


View attachment 13961
Alright so new wire, connect it to the same spot red wire is on on the box. Now, should the other side of it also be hooked to positive, or should it be grounded, or the other side of the box? Just want to be sure because I, as you can tall, am a newbie. Also, would 14g be sufficient for use instead of just testing if 16 is not?

Lastly, repair the side on the right, correct? I see it is extremely mangled but still want to be sure.
 

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Alright so new wire, connect it to the same spot red wire is on on the box. Now, should the other side of it also be hooked to positive, or should it be grounded, or the other side of the box? Just want to be sure because I, as you can tall, am a newbie. Also, would 14g be sufficient for use instead of just testing if 16 is not?

Lastly, repair the side on the right, correct? I see it is extremely mangled but still want to be sure.
NO GROUND WIRES ANYWHERE. 14 gauge wire with a eyelet terminal to bolt on left side. Attach new eyelet terminal to yellow wire. All these connections need to be clean it powers everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
NO GROUND WIRES ANYWHERE. 14 gauge wire with a eyelet terminal to bolt on left side. Attach new eyelet terminal to yellow wire. All these connections need to be clean it powers everything.
So I'm just replacing the red wire or running another parallel with it? Or the other end (not the box end) connects to something else? I'm just trying to figure out where to connect the other side of the new wire (2.0 fuse link blue).
 

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Alright so new wire, connect it to the same spot red wire is on on the box. Now, should the other side of it also be hooked to positive, or should it be grounded, or the other side of the box? Just want to be sure because I, as you can tall, am a newbie. Also, would 14g be sufficient for use instead of just testing if 16 is not?

Lastly, repair the side on the right, correct? I see it is extremely mangled but still want to be sure.
RED wire on the RIGHT the larger bolt. Which you will connect the blue 2.0 fuse link wire in the future.
 

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So I'm just replacing the red wire or running another parallel with it? Or the other end (not the box end) connects to something else? I'm just trying to figure out where to connect the other side of the new wire (2.0 fuse link blue).
Not using old red wire, your using 14 gauge temporary piece for now
The side where the yellow wire goes in the box to the large bolt side (right side in your pic.)should have two holes one for yellow wire and one for the blue fuse link wire to go to the large bolt. You will use you temporary wire for now. The other end goes to positive battery post.
 
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