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Discussion Starter #22
Broken wire is for the check engine codes.

Went ahead and set everything back the way it should be and still no power to the igniter.


Only thing I can guess is there’s a screwed up wire between ignition switch and igniter, or something else.
 

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Foot well light plugged into under hood light connector. Oxygen sensor connector maybe.
Broken wire is for the check engine codes.

Went ahead and set everything back the way it should be and still no power to the igniter.


Only thing I can guess is there’s a screwed up wire between ignition switch and igniter, or something else.
That repair looks great. Now test for 12v at the engine fuse box ( key in off position) on fuse link .3p should have 12v on both sides.If yes then check main relay #2 white/red wire for power. If yes, turn key to ignition on check black/red wire to main relay #2 if not check 7.5 amp ign fuse in drivers kick panel.
 

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Try this test TURN IGNITION ON, in engine fuse box unplug ign main relay and plug back in to hear and feel it click. That confirms power thru ign switch and 7.5 ign fuse.

Looking at this picture if you still have no power to the 7.5 amp ign fuse. That black/yellow stripe wire could be to the fuse box in kick panel.Someone tried to install alarm on car at one time. You could take plastic cover off steering column and check for more bad wires.


13979
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Update:

Checked and replaced the fuses. Again. Any that tested even slightly bad (the light on the tester didn’t immediately come on).

And now I got spark. I feel so stupid but I guess it’s good I decided to check again.

Anyways, now I gotta move on to hooking up the fuel pump because the last owner said it stopped working and had to wire in a switch. I may end up just having to replace all that or maybe replace the relay in the kick panel of that pertains to fuel.

If not, it may be because the AFM is actually supposed to be opened, but I don’t know.

We hooked the fuel pump up to the battery before and got it going, so there was enough fuel for her to barely—just barely—come to life for a few seconds. I hope that’s the issue, at least.

Other than that, is the fuel filler not supposed to have a cap and just have that tiny little opening with a metal plate kinda thing, or what?

Anyways, I appreciate everyone’s help. A lot. I would’ve been completely lost if it wasn’t for you, 82turbosupra
 

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You got it to spark!? That's great!
As for fuel filler, you mean the part of the car behind the right rear tire in the quarter panel where you fill it up with gas at a gas station... right? It should definitely have a gas cap. Most auto parts stores will be able to hook you up with a new one.
If you meant fuel filter, that's located under the intake manifold attached to the engine block.
 

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Update:

Checked and replaced the fuses. Again. Any that tested even slightly bad (the light on the tester didn’t immediately come on).

And now I got spark. I feel so stupid but I guess it’s good I decided to check again.

Anyways, now I gotta move on to hooking up the fuel pump because the last owner said it stopped working and had to wire in a switch. I may end up just having to replace all that or maybe replace the relay in the kick panel of that pertains to fuel.

If not, it may be because the AFM is actually supposed to be opened, but I don’t know.

We hooked the fuel pump up to the battery before and got it going, so there was enough fuel for her to barely—just barely—come to life for a few seconds. I hope that’s the issue, at least.

Other than that, is the fuel filler not supposed to have a cap and just have that tiny little opening with a metal plate kinda thing, or what?

Anyways, I appreciate everyone’s help. A lot. I would’ve been completely lost if it wasn’t for you, 82turbosupra
Thanks. Gas cap required. Before trying to start engine. Flush out the fuel system if it hasn't ran in months. I would replace fuel pump
But first lets get the fuel pump to run the correct and safe way.

When you crank engine over the flapper door in the AFM trips a switch which grounds the coil in the circuit opening relay to keep fuel pump running, call stalls fuel pump goes off for safety. The check connector bypasses the AFM switch.

Now here is fuel pump wiring checks. EFI RELAY check in engine fuse box, turn ignition to on, unplug EFI RELAY than plug back in to hear if it clicks. If yes 15 amp fuse is good and ECU is sending power to relay coil. If not will troubleshoot that next.

Next step jump fuel pump check connector by AFM yellow connector with one green wire and one white/black stripe, jump the end of connections with short piece of wire.Turn ignition on, check for power at fuel pump connector blue/black stripe positive and white/ black stripe is ground. If not circuit opening relay isn't getting a signal and will resolved that problem if found.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
You got it to spark!? That's great!
As for fuel filler, you mean the part of the car behind the right rear tire in the quarter panel where you fill it up with gas at a gas station... right? It should definitely have a gas cap. Most auto parts stores will be able to hook you up with a new one.
If you meant fuel filter, that's located under the intake manifold attached to the engine block.
Yea I meant by the quarter panel. I’ll get a picture of it in a bit but it doesn’t even look like a cap would fit honestly. or even a gas station pump through the hole.

Thanks. Gas cap required. Before trying to start engine. Flush out the fuel system if it hasn't ran in months. I would replace fuel pump
But first lets get the fuel pump to run the correct and safe way.

When you crank engine over the flapper door in the AFM trips a switch which grounds the coil in the circuit opening relay to keep fuel pump running, call stalls fuel pump goes off for safety. The check connector bypasses the AFM switch.

Now here is fuel pump wiring checks. EFI RELAY check in engine fuse box, turn ignition to on, unplug EFI RELAY than plug back in to hear if it clicks. If yes 15 amp fuse is good and ECU is sending power to relay coil. If not will troubleshoot that next.

Next step jump fuel pump check connector by AFM yellow connector with one green wire and one white/black stripe, jump the end of connections with short piece of wire.Turn ignition on, check for power at fuel pump connector blue/black stripe positive and white/ black stripe is ground. If not circuit opening relay isn't getting a signal and will resolved that problem if found.
Gotcha. EFI relay was one of the first things I replaced but I’ll definitely triple check it and make sure I can physically feel it.

I’ll also see what i can do with the EFI check since I think you said that was the wire that looked like it blew up. I’ll definitely give it all a test. Thank y’all
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Shorted the pump connector, no power to the fuel pump connector. Gonna try and find the issue before y’all respond but we’ll see.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #31
No problem. Power starts at efi fuse to efi relay then thru circuit open relay to pump.Start from the power source.
EFI relay in the engine bay is good, as well as main. Replaced them both when I first got the car and hear the clicks.

Replaced whatever the 4-pin relay is in the interior, too, just in case.

Did what we could, hooked the fuel pump up directly again, built up pressure, then got her started with some new gas and starter fluid. Ran perfect with my buddy holding open the throttle at about 2-3000rpm before he let go since the green light thing was hitting a belt. Battery was too low to get the starter going after that.

From what I saw skimming another forum and based off what you said, I’m thinking it’s the circuit open relay now.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Any way I can go about testing the relay before buying a new one?

And if not that, test the rest of the system somewhere up before where the pump should be getting power?
 

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Any way I can go about testing the relay before buying a new one?
Power to IG, FC to ground relay should have continuity between B and FP
Power to STA , E1 to ground relay shoul have continuity between B and FP


If relay is good then test the following.

And if not that, test the rest of the system somewhere up before where the pump should be getting power?
You said the EFI RELAY is good. Turn key to ign on. Check for power at COR(circuit opening relay). Remove relay and test black/yellow stripe wire(pin 2) needs to have power. Next test black/red stripe wire(pin 5) needs power. Only while cranking motor will the black wire(pin 3) have power. If power is at plug, Then it's a ground issue.

Plug relay back in, turn key to ign on, using your phone record the relay sound while opening the AFM flapper door a few times then test the fuel pump check connector a few times jumping connector. Relay should click on both test.
If not a bad AFM switch or ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You said the EFI RELAY is good. Turn key to ign on. Check for power at COR(circuit opening relay). Remove relay and test black/yellow stripe wire(pin 2) needs to have power. Next test black/red stripe wire(pin 5) needs power. Only while cranking motor will the black wire(pin 3) have power. If power is at plug, Then it's a ground issue.

Plug relay back in, turn key to ign on, using your phone record the relay sound while opening the AFM flapper door a few times then test the fuel pump check connector a few times jumping connector. Relay should click on both test.
If not a bad AFM switch or ground.
Man, I'm sorry; I should have looked in the TSRM before asking that question. I'll do all that next chance I have and give an update. I take it as long as the above test for the relay works out, and the power is not getting through, then the relay is likely at fault.

I do have a feeling AFM will need replacing, too, so this will all definitely answer some questions.

Next chance I'll have might be Wednesday. I'll update as soon as I can. Thank you again.
 

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Man, I'm sorry; I should have looked in the TSRM before asking that question. I'll do all that next chance I have and give an update. I take it as long as the above test for the relay works out, and the power is not getting through, then the relay is likely at fault.

I do have a feeling AFM will need replacing, too, so this will all definitely answer some questions.

Next chance I'll have might be Wednesday. I'll update as soon as I can. Thank you again.
Do the 12v power test on the relay, that way you know the relay closes and will complete the circuit to the fuel pump.
Then do the power testing to relay socket. Then the ground test.

The car ran that's great news.
 

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Carid.com sells reman AFMs $227 + core not a bad price...
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Carid.com sells reman AFMs $227 + core not a bad price...
Thank you, I appreciate it. It does not seem it is the problem, though. Also, since I work at O'Reilly, I can get one for around $70.

Will post an update in a second once the video uploads.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Alright so, here is all I did today and yesterday:

First, I looked under the dash for the COR.
As it would turn out, I may need one in the car for the fuel pump to get power haha.
Also saw this thing:
Picked one up from O'Reilly for like $38 and slapped it in there.
Next, I did the tests. Held my finger against it, turned key on, "click." Hell yea.
Next, tool a voltmeter to the fuel pump wires. Power!
Now, to figure out why the pump was not running with the wires hooked up. Did the rest of the tests, flipping open the AFM flap and shorting the check connector. "Click" and "click."
Hooked the fuel pump to the connector and nothing. Took the fuel pump out to look at the wiring the previous owner did to get it running by a switch to the battery.
I then cursed at myself because I already figured out the orange wire was to the positive on the pump, meaning I could have just plugged that up to the power wire instead of taking it all out again and rewiring it.
Anyways, back to starting to crank it. Felt the hose before to see how pressurized it was. It was rather flaccid. Cranked a few times, hose was nice and stiff, car started consistently until battery died again.

Took the battery to charge and pulled the plugs again while I was at it. They were all black but measured perfect on the voltmeter (TSRM says >.40 I if I recall correctly. Measured about .56). Went and changed them anyway just in case.

Got battery back on and started cranking.
Sounds beautiful first of all. But now, I believe the problem is either low fuel pressure, bad timing, or the code 41 that was on (throttle position sensor), although, as you see, the CEL turns off after the car is on now. Also, after the first start in the video, each time cranking I put a tiny bit of throttle in to keep it around 1,000-1,500. I still had my foot on it when it died. It did the same with 2,000 RPM before. Lastly, it feels so, so smooth. I believe bad timing would cause it to run rougher than that, but maybe I am completely wrong. Honestly it feels smoother than any other vehicle I have been in, minus a Prius for obvious reasons.

Anyways, that is the details of the last few days. One step after another. Aside from dying like that, everything else seems to be cosmetic or a "what the hell were you doing here?" kind of thing. I also am gonna try and pinch the return hose by the fuel pump and see if that makes a difference, indicating bad pressure or bad pressure regulator.
 

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Whats the burnt wire in this picture. Needs to be repaired.
14003


All the wires to the fuel pump need perfect connections due to high current draw.

Check for vacuum leaks, the intake and hoses to intake connections must be tight from afm to throttle body.
Oil filler cap on, dip stick in, no unmetered air past AFM.
ISC valve could be bad. EGR valve could be stuck open.
 
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