The burnt connector 3 wire EFI check. Make sure none of them are touching. The one wire connector for power check to ISC valve. Broken wire not sure.
That repair looks great. Now test for 12v at the engine fuse box ( key in off position) on fuse link .3p should have 12v on both sides.If yes then check main relay #2 white/red wire for power. If yes, turn key to ignition on check black/red wire to main relay #2 if not check 7.5 amp ign fuse in drivers kick panel.
Thanks. Gas cap required. Before trying to start engine. Flush out the fuel system if it hasn't ran in months. I would replace fuel pumpUpdate:
Checked and replaced the fuses. Again. Any that tested even slightly bad (the light on the tester didn’t immediately come on).
And now I got spark. I feel so stupid but I guess it’s good I decided to check again.
Anyways, now I gotta move on to hooking up the fuel pump because the last owner said it stopped working and had to wire in a switch. I may end up just having to replace all that or maybe replace the relay in the kick panel of that pertains to fuel.
If not, it may be because the AFM is actually supposed to be opened, but I don’t know.
We hooked the fuel pump up to the battery before and got it going, so there was enough fuel for her to barely—just barely—come to life for a few seconds. I hope that’s the issue, at least.
Other than that, is the fuel filler not supposed to have a cap and just have that tiny little opening with a metal plate kinda thing, or what?
Anyways, I appreciate everyone’s help. A lot. I would’ve been completely lost if it wasn’t for you, 82turbosupra
Yea I meant by the quarter panel. I’ll get a picture of it in a bit but it doesn’t even look like a cap would fit honestly. or even a gas station pump through the hole.You got it to spark!? That's great!
As for fuel filler, you mean the part of the car behind the right rear tire in the quarter panel where you fill it up with gas at a gas station... right? It should definitely have a gas cap. Most auto parts stores will be able to hook you up with a new one.
If you meant fuel filter, that's located under the intake manifold attached to the engine block.
Gotcha. EFI relay was one of the first things I replaced but I’ll definitely triple check it and make sure I can physically feel it.Thanks. Gas cap required. Before trying to start engine. Flush out the fuel system if it hasn't ran in months. I would replace fuel pump
But first lets get the fuel pump to run the correct and safe way.
When you crank engine over the flapper door in the AFM trips a switch which grounds the coil in the circuit opening relay to keep fuel pump running, call stalls fuel pump goes off for safety. The check connector bypasses the AFM switch.
Now here is fuel pump wiring checks. EFI RELAY check in engine fuse box, turn ignition to on, unplug EFI RELAY than plug back in to hear if it clicks. If yes 15 amp fuse is good and ECU is sending power to relay coil. If not will troubleshoot that next.
Next step jump fuel pump check connector by AFM yellow connector with one green wire and one white/black stripe, jump the end of connections with short piece of wire.Turn ignition on, check for power at fuel pump connector blue/black stripe positive and white/ black stripe is ground. If not circuit opening relay isn't getting a signal and will resolved that problem if found.
EFI relay in the engine bay is good, as well as main. Replaced them both when I first got the car and hear the clicks.No problem. Power starts at efi fuse to efi relay then thru circuit open relay to pump.Start from the power source.
You said the EFI RELAY is good. Turn key to ign on. Check for power at COR(circuit opening relay). Remove relay and test black/yellow stripe wire(pin 2) needs to have power. Next test black/red stripe wire(pin 5) needs power. Only while cranking motor will the black wire(pin 3) have power. If power is at plug, Then it's a ground issue.Any way I can go about testing the relay before buying a new one?
Power to IG, FC to ground relay should have continuity between B and FP
Power to STA , E1 to ground relay shoul have continuity between B and FP
If relay is good then test the following.
And if not that, test the rest of the system somewhere up before where the pump should be getting power?
Man, I'm sorry; I should have looked in the TSRM before asking that question. I'll do all that next chance I have and give an update. I take it as long as the above test for the relay works out, and the power is not getting through, then the relay is likely at fault.You said the EFI RELAY is good. Turn key to ign on. Check for power at COR(circuit opening relay). Remove relay and test black/yellow stripe wire(pin 2) needs to have power. Next test black/red stripe wire(pin 5) needs power. Only while cranking motor will the black wire(pin 3) have power. If power is at plug, Then it's a ground issue.
Plug relay back in, turn key to ign on, using your phone record the relay sound while opening the AFM flapper door a few times then test the fuel pump check connector a few times jumping connector. Relay should click on both test.
If not a bad AFM switch or ground.
Do the 12v power test on the relay, that way you know the relay closes and will complete the circuit to the fuel pump.Man, I'm sorry; I should have looked in the TSRM before asking that question. I'll do all that next chance I have and give an update. I take it as long as the above test for the relay works out, and the power is not getting through, then the relay is likely at fault.
I do have a feeling AFM will need replacing, too, so this will all definitely answer some questions.
Next chance I'll have might be Wednesday. I'll update as soon as I can. Thank you again.
Thank you, I appreciate it. It does not seem it is the problem, though. Also, since I work at O'Reilly, I can get one for around $70.Carid.com sells reman AFMs $227 + core not a bad price...
Remanufactured Air Flow Meter - Part Number 413060 by Fuel Injection. 1 Piece. Works in conjunction with the ECU and the injectors. Available in Parts Department.www.carid.com